IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STMiT 

WiBSTiR.N.Y.  14SS0 

(716)872-4503 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  IVIicroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquas 


Tschnical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notat  tachniquaa  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  inttituta  haa  anamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction.  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  uaual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chaclcad  balow. 


□    Colourod  covara/ 
Couvarturo  da  coulaur 


r~n    Covara  damagad/ 


D 


D 
D 
D 
D 


D 


Couvartura  andommagia 


Covara  raatorad  and/or  iaminatad/ 
Couvartura  raatauria  at/ou  palliculAa 


□    Covar  titia  miaaing/ 
La 


titra  da  couvartura  manqua 


pyj   Colourad  mapa/ 

I^Lj   Cartaa  gtographiquaa  w*  coulaur 


D 


Colourad  ink  li.a.  othar  than  blua  or  black)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 

Colourad  plataa  and/or  illuatrationa/ 
Planchaa  at/ou  illuatrationa  un  coulaur 

Bound  with  othar  mat^at/ 
Rali4  avac  d'autraa  documanta 


Tight  binding  may  cauaa  shadowa  or  diatortion 
along  intorior  margin/ 

La  r9  liura  sarria  paut  cauaar  da  I'ombra  ou  da  la 
diatoraion  la  long  da  la  marga  int4riaura 

Blank  laavaa  addad  during  raatoration  may 
appaar  within  tha  taxt.  Whanavar  poaaibla.  thasa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
II  aa  paut  qua  eartainaa  pagaa  blanchaa  ajoutiaa 
lora  d'una  raatauration  apparaiaaant  dana  la  taxta. 
mala,  loraqua  cala  Atait  poaaibla.  caa  pagaa  n'ont 
paa  M  filmiaa. 

Additional  commanta:/ 
Commantairaa  supplAmarvtairaa: 


L'Inatitut  a  microfilmi  la  maillaur  axamplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  iti  poaaibla  da  aa  procurar.  Lai  ditaiis 
da  cat  axamplaira  qui  sont  paut-4tra  uniquaa  du 
point  da  vua  bibliographiqua,  qui  pauvant  modifiar 
una  imaga  raproduita.  ou  qui  pauvant  axigar  una 
modification  dana  la  mithoda  normala  da  fiimaga 
aont  indiquto  ei-daaaoua. 


0   Colourad  pagaa/ 
Pagaa 


Q 


Pagaa  da  coulaur 

Pagaa  damagad/ 
Pagaa  andommagiaa 

Psgaa  raatorad  and/oi 

Pagaa  raatauriaa  at/ou  palliculiaa 

Pagaa  discolourad,  ttainad  or  foxai 
Pagaa  dAcoloriaa.  tachatias  ou  piquAas 

Pagaa  datachad/ 
Pagaa  d^tachtea 

Showthrough/ 
Tranaparanca 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualiti  inigala  da  I'impraaaion 

Includaa  lupplamantary  matarii 
Comprand  du  matirial  supplimantaira 

Only  adition  availabia/ 
Saula  Mition  disponibia 


r~n  Pagaa  damagad/ 

r*n  Psgaa  raatorad  and/or  Iaminatad/ 

r~7]  Pagaa  discolourad,  stainad  or  foxad/ 

r~]  Pagaa  datachad/ 

r~^  Showthrough/ 

rn  Quality  of  print  variaa/ 

r~n  Includaa  supplamantary  matarial/ 

r~|  Only  adition  availabia/ 


Pagaa  wholly  or  partially  obscurad  by  errata 
slips,  tissuas.  ate  hava  baan  rafilmad  to 
ansura  tha  baat  possibia  imaga/ 
Laa  Tagaa  totalamant  ou  partiallamant 
obacurciaa  par  un  fauillat  d'errata.  una  palura, 
ate  ont  itt  filmias  A  nouvaau  da  fapon  A 
obtanir  la  maillaura  imaga  possibia. 


This  itam  is  filmad  at  tha  reduction  ratio  chackad  balow/ 

Ca  document  eat  filmA  au  taux  da  reduction  IndiquA  ei-daaaoua. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


Th«  copy  film«d  hw  hat  b—n  r«produo«d  thank* 
to  th«  fl«n«ro«ity  of: 

Samimry  of  QiMbM 
Library 


L'oxompioiro  fHm4  fut  roproduit  grtea  i  la 
ginAroalt*  da: 

SAmiraira  da  Quibae 
BiUiotMqua 


Tha  imaflaa  appaarlng  hara  ara  tha  baat  quality 
poaaibia  conaldaring  tha  condition  and  laflibiHty 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  icaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  apasificatlona. 


Original  eoplaa  in  printad  papar  covara  ara  fllmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  laat  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impraa> 
sion,  or  tha  bacic  covar  ¥whan  appropriata.  All 
othar  original  eopi*«  ara  fllmad  baginning  on  tha 
firat  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impraa- 
aion.  and  anding  on  tha  laat  paga  with  a  printad 
or  Illuatratad  Impraaaion. 


Tha  laat  racordod  frama  on  aaeh  mierofleho 
•hall  contain  tha  aymbol  — ^  (moaning  "CON> 
TINUED").  or  tha  aymbol  ▼  (moaning  "END"), 
whichavar  appUaa. 


Laa  imagaa  auivantaa  ont  4t4  raproduitaa  avac  la 
plua  grand  coin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattat*  da  raxampiaira  film*,  at  wi 
conformity  avac  laa  conditiona  du  contrat  da 
fHmaga. 

Laa  axamplairaa  orlglnaux  dont  la  couvartura  an 
papiar  aat  ImprimAa  aont  filmAa  an  commOn^nt 
par  la  pramlar  plat  at  an  tarminant  salt  par  la 
damMra  paga  qui  eomporta  una  amprainte 
d'impraaaion  ou  d'illuatratlon.  aolt  par  la  tacond 
plat,  aalon  la  caa.  Toua  laa  autraa  axamplairaa 
orlglnaux  aont  filmte  ix  commandant  par  la 
pramMra  paga  qui  eomporta  una  amprainta 
dimpraaalon  ou  d'lHuatration  at  1%  tarminant  par 
la  damlAra  paga  qui  eomporta  una  talla 
amprainta. 

Un  daa  aymbolaa  aulvanta  apparaltra  aur  la 
damlAra  imaga  da  chaqua  microflcha,  aalon  la 
caa:  la  aymbola  -^-  aignifia  "A  SUIVRE".  la 
•ymbola  ▼  aignifia  "FIN". 


plataa.  charta.  ate.,  may  ba  fllmad  at 
diffarant  raduction  ratloa.  Thoaa  too  larga  to  ba 
antlraly  included  in  ana  axpoaura  ara  fllmad 
baginning  in  tha  uppar  laft  hand  comar.  laft  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  aa  many  framaa  aa 
required.  The  following  diagrama  iiluatrata  tha 
method: 


Lee  cartaa.  planchaa.  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  itre 
filmde  i  dee  taux  do  rMuctlon  diffirenta. 
Loraqua  to  document  eet  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
raproduit  an  un  soul  clichA.  il  eet  film4  A  partir 
da  I'angto  aupAriaur  gauche,  do  gauche  i  droite. 
et  da  haut  en  bee.  on  prenent  le  nombre 
d'Imegee  nAceeaaire.  Lee  diagrammee  aulvanta 
iiluatrent  to  mAthode. 


32X 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

'^- 


^ 


i 


■%i.  ,--=-.«fi»iv 


^. 


^OrgfffL-  .J^^nfyfnJ^ 


•A 

I 


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THE 


PICTURESQUE  TOURIST: 


BEING 


>     i 


A   GUIDE 


THROUGH  THE 


NORTHERN  AND  EASTERN  STATES 


AMD 


CANADA: 

GIVING    AN    ACCURATE    DESCRIPTION    OF    CITIES    ANlT 

VILLAOES,     CELEBRATED     PLACES 

OF  RESORT,  ETC. 

WITH  MAPS  AND  ILLUSTRATIONi;^    ^ 

EDITED  BY  0.  L.  HOLLEY. 


NEW- YORK : 

PUBLISHED    BY   J.    DISTURNELL, 

NO.    102  BROADWAY. 


1844. 


i 

I 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1844 , 
by  John  Distuknell,  in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District 
Court  for  the  Southern  District  of  New-York. 


ALBANY  :   PaiNTEO   By   C.    VAN  BflNTHjySBN    AND   CO 


'.^ 


1 


14, 
•ict 


TO  THE  READER. 

The  arrangement  of  the  Picturesque  Tourist,  will 
be  found  to  differ,  in  some  respects,  from  works  of  the 
^ame  class. 

The  general  olject  of  this  book  is  to  furnish  a  conve* 
nient  and  faithful  guide  for  strangers^  whether  travelling 
on  business,  or  for  pleasure,  or  health,  through  the  North- 
ern and  Eastern  sections  of  the  United  States,  and  the 
Canadas. 

The  City  of  New- York,  as  being  the  principal  com- 
mercial  emporium  of  the  country,  and  the  chief  centre  of 
resort,  in  the  first  instance,  for  distant  travellers,  whether 
native  or  foreign,  is  chosen  as  the  point  from  which  the 
Tourist  is  supposed  to  commence  his  excursion.  Starting 
thence,  this  Guide  will  conduct  him  along  the  principal 
lines  of  travel  North,  West,  and  East.  Northward  he 
will  proceed  up  the  Hudson  river,  through  the  flourishing 
cities  at  the  head  of  navigation,  to  the  famous  Springs  at 
Ballston  and  Saratoga — thence  to  Lake  George,  and  by 
the  way  of  Lake  Champlain  into  Canada.  Westward 
through  the  rich  midland  and  western  counties  of  the 


TO    THE    llKAI>Ril. 


Slate  of  New- York,  to  Niagara  Falls,  and  Uuflfalo — thrncc 
to  Chicago.  Northerly  through  Canada,  passing  over 
Lake  Ontario  and  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Montreal. 
Quebec,  and  the  Saguenay  river.  Eastward  through  the 
states  of  New  England  ;  noticing,  on  each  route,  the  pla- 
ces and  scenery  most  worthy  of  the  attention  of  the  Tour- 
ist, cither  for  memorable  events,  or  for  local  attractions, 
and  aiming,  in  the  accounts  of  them,  more  at  simple  ac- 
curacy, than  at  embellished  description.  Such  are  tlie 
scope  and  design  of  this  Traveller's  Guide. 

O.  L.  H. 
Albany,  June,  1844. 


/ 


'nee 

)ver 

cal, 

the 

plu- 

uur- 

onS; 

ac- 

the 


i 


CONTENTS 


Description  of  tuc  City  and  Island  of  New-York. 

Page 

Situation  and  Extent, ^ 

Discovery  and  Settlement, 10 

Streets  and  Avenues, 13 

Parks  and  Public  Squares, 15 

Public  Buildings, 16 

Churches, 19 

Literary  and  Scientific  Institutions, 20 

Benevolent  Institutions, 23 

Places  of  Amusement, 23 

Hotels  and  Public  Houses, 25 

Hackney  Coaches,  Cabs  and  Omnibusses, 27 

Markets, 27 

Trade  and  Commerce, 28 

Buildings  in  1840 28 

Croton  Aqueduct, 29 

Fire  Department — City  Courts, 33 

City  Police — Ferries, 34 

Steamboats  and  Packets, 35 

Railroads, 35 

Stages, 36 

Fashionable  Places  of  Resort  in  the  Vicinity  N.  York,  37 

Eastern  Lines  of  Travel  through  Lo.ig  Island  Sound,  42 

Housatonic  Route  between  New-York  and  Albany,  43 

Hudson  River  and  its  Vicinity. 

Jersey  City — Hoboken, 46 

Weehawken — Bloomingdale — Manhattanville, 46 

Fort  Washington — Fort  Lee — Palisades, 47 

Yonkers— Hastings — Dobb's  Ferry, 48 

Piermont — Tappan, 49 

Tappan  Bay — Irving — Tarrytown — Nyack, 50 

Ho-kland  Lake — Sing  Sing, 51 


ii 


CONTENll. 


Page, 

Teller's  Point — llaverstraw—Vcrplank's Point,  ..  •  '>'2 

Caldwell'8  Landint?— Peckskill, r)3 

Mahopack  Lake — Fort  Independence 54 

Highlands — Forts  Clinton  and  Montgomery, T).) 

West  Point, M 

Cold  Spring — Beacon  Hill,  &c.— Cornwall, ^>i) 

Newburgh, <>0 

Fishkill  Landing, <)| 

Matteawan — Glenham — New  Hambugli,  &c., (12 

Poughkeepsie,. .  •.   : 63 

Hyde  Park, G^t 

Hondout — Kingston, GA 

Rhinebeck, 66 

Barrytown — Tivoli — Redhook — Saugerties, 67 

Bristol — Catskill — Catskill  Mountain  House, 6S 

Pine  Orchard  and  Catskill  Mountains, 69 

City  of  Hudson, 70 

Athens — Four  Mile  Point — Coxsackie, 71 

Kinderhook — New  Baltimore — Coeymans, 72 

Castleton — Overslaugh — Greenbush, 73 

City  of  Albany 73 

City  of  Troy, 80 

West  Troy — Watervliet  Arsenal — Lansingburgh,  ..  84 

Waterford — Cohoes, 85 

Hudson  River  Steamboats, 8(> 

Tour  to  the  Springs,  Lake  George,  and  Canada. 

Routes  from  Albany  and  Troy  to   Montreal  and 

Quebec, 8f> 

Mechanicsville, 90 

Capture  of  Burgoyne, 91 

Ballston  Spa, 95 

Saratoga  Springs, ,. 96 

Saratoga  Lake, '. 102 

G lens  Falls, 103 

Caldwell, 104 

Lake  George,  or  Horicon, 105 

Sandy  Hill— Fort  Edward, 106 

Fort  Ann— Whitehall, 107 

Lake  Champlain, 108 

Fort  Ticonderoga, 109 

Mount  Defiance, :  112 

Ticonderoga— Crown  Point — Port  Henry— Westport,  1 13 


■% 


% 


CONTEMTH. 


m 


Page. 

Fort  Cassin— Split  Rock—Essex, 1 14 

HurlinRton— Port  Kent, 115 

Kccsvillc — fiurtninghatn 116 

Plattsburgh, 117 

Cumberinnd  Head — South  and  North  Hero 119 

Chazy— Isle  au  Mott— Alburg — Rouse's  Point,. . . .    120 

Ash  Island— Isle  aux  Noix— St.  John's, 121 

Table  of  Distnncesbetween  Albany  and  Montreal,..  123 
Table  of  Distances  Iroin  Montreal  to  Quebec,  &c.,  124 


80 


an 

90 
91 
95 

no 

102 
103 
104 


113 


■i 

"■  i- 


Western  Tour. 

Routes  from  Albany  and  Troy  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara 

Falls, 125 

City  of  Schenectady 126 

Amsterdam — Fonda — Johnstown, 128 

Spraker's  Basin — Canajoharie — Sharon  Springs,...  129 

Cooperstown — Richfield  Springs, 130 

Fort  Plain — St.  Johnsville — Little  Falls, 131 

West  Canada  Creek — Herkimer, 132 

City  of  Utica, 133 

Trenton  Falls, 136 

Whitesborough, 137 

Oriskany — Rome,  138 

Oneida  Depot — Canastota — Chittenango, 139 

Cazenovia — Syracuse, • 110 

Geddes — Salina— Liverpool, 141 

Oswego, 144 

Sackett's  Harbor, 145 

Watertown — Lake  Ontario, 146 

Summer  Arrangement  for  Steamboats,  &c., 148 

American  Steamboats  on  Lake  Ontario, 149 

British  Steamboats  on  Lake  Ontario, 1.50 

Camillus — Jordan — Skaneateles — Auburn, 151 

Weedsport — Port  Byron — Montezuma — Cayuga,  . .    153 

Cayuga  Lake, 154 

Aurora — Ludlowville  Landing,  &c. , 165 

Ithaca, ^ 156 

Owego. 159 

Elmira^efferson — Seneca  Falls, 160 

Waterloo — Geneva, 161 

Seneca  Lake — Lyons, 163 

Clyde — Newark — Palmyra — Vienna, 164 

Canandaigua— Canandaigua  Lake— Pittsford, 165 


Iv 


CONTENTS. 


fill 


W 


Page. 

CUy  of  Rochester, 166 

Avon  Springs, J68 

Batavia — Attica, 170 

Brockport — Ilolley — Albion — Ridge  Road, 171 

Knowlesville — Medina — Gasport — Lockport, 172 

Tonawanda — Black  Rock, 173 

Niagara  Falls, 174 

Lewistcn — Fort  Niagara, 177 

City  of  Buffalo, 178 

Steamboat  Lines  leaving  Buffalo, 181 

Table  of  Distances  from  Buffalo  to  Chicago, : 182 

A  trip  from  Buffalo  to  Chicago — Lake  Erie, 184 

Dunkirk — Barcelona — Erie — Conneaut, 186 

Ashtabula — Fairport — Cleveland — Sandusky, 187 

Toledo— Perrysburg, 188 

Monroe — Amherstburgh — Detroit, 189 

Lake  St.  Clair— Fort  Gratiot— Lake  Huron, 190 

Point  aux  Barques — Presque  Isle — Mackinac, 191 

Lake  Michigan — Milwaukie — Racine — Chicago,. . .   192 

Michigan  City — St.  Joseph — Green  Bay, 193 

Sault  de  St.  Marie, 194 

Lake  Superior, 195 

Pictured  Rocks, 196 

First  Vessel  which  Navigated  the  Western  Lakes, . . .    197 
Statistics  of  Steamboats, 202 

Tour  Through  Canada. 

Fort  Erie — Waterloo — Grand  Island, 21 1 

Navy  Island — Chippewa, 212 

Falls  of  Niagara — Drummondsville, 213 

Queenston, ^ 2l4 

Niagara, 215 

Fort  George— Welland  Canal, 216 

Hamilton — Dundas, 217 

City  of  Toronto, 218 

Steamboat  Lines  leaving  Toronto, 219 

Port  Hope — Cobourg, 221 

City  of  Kingston, 222 

Rideau  Canal, 223 

Table  of  Distances  between  Kingston  and  Montreal,  226 

Thousand  Islands , 226 

Gananoqui — Well's  Island, ■. 227 

BrockviiJe — Morristown — Prescott, 228 


CONTEXTS. 


Page. 

Ogdensburgh , 229 

Galop  Rapids — Dickinson's  Landing — Cornwall — St. 

Regis,    230 

Lake  St.  Francis — Coteau  du  Lac,  Cedar  and  Cas- 
cade Rapids, 231 

Beauharnois  Canal — Canals  in  Canada, 232 

City  of  Montreal, 234 

Excursion  to  Caledonia  Springs,  &c.^ 238 

Lachine — St.  Anne's, 238 

Lake  ot'  the  Two  Mountains — Carillon — Point  For- 
tune,   239 

Caledonia  Springs, 240 

Georgian  Springs — By  town, 242 

Steainboat  Route  froia  Montreal  to  Quebec, 243 

Rapids  of  St.  Mary — Varennes — William  Henry, . . .  244 

Lake  St.  Peter, 245 

Port  St.  Francis — Three  Rivers — Richelieu  Rapids,  246 

City  of  Quebec, 247 

Excursions  in  the  Vicinity  of  Quebec, 259 

Falls  of  Montmorenci 260 

Chaudiere  Falls — Cape  Rouge 261 

St.  Lawrence  and  Saguenay  Rivers, 262 

Island  of  Orleans, 263 

Madam  Island — St.  Thomas — Isle  aux  Coudres,  •  •  •  •  264 

Goose  Island — St.  Anne — Kamouraski, 265 

River  Du  Loup — Red  Island— Tadousac, 266 

Saguenay  River, 269 

TeteduBoule,   271 

St.  Louis  Islam' — Eternity  Point — Cape  Trinity,. . .  272 

Statue  Point-  Tableau— Ha-Ha  Bay, 273 

Chicoutimi, 274 

Value  of  Colonial  Moneys, , 275 


Eastern  Tour. 

Table  of  Distances  from  Burlington  to  Concord,. . .  277 

Lake  Champlain, 278 

List  of  Steamboats  built  on  Lake  Champlain, 280 

Montpelier, 280 

Eastern  Lines  of  Travel  from  Whitehall  and  Albany,  281 

New  Lebanan  Springs — Shaker  Settlement, 282 

Piltsfield—Dalton— Washington— Becket, 283 

Chester— Westfield— Springfield, 284 

Northampton— Mount  Tom— Hadley, 286 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Worcester, 287 

City  of  Boston, 288 

Vicinity  of  Boston — Dorchester,  &c., 296 

Brookline — Brighton — Cambridge, 297 

Mount  Auburn — Charlestown, 298 

Breed's  Hill— Battle  of  Bunker  Hill, 299 

Chelsea — Boston  Harbor, < 302 

Nahant, 303 

Railroad  Route  from  Boston  to  Concord,    304 

City  of  Lowell, 305 

Nashua — Concord, 308 

White  Mountains, 309 

Routes  between  Boston  and  Portland, 314 

Railroad  and  Steamboat  Routes, 315 

Lynn — Salem, 316 

Beverly — Ipswich — Newburyport — Portsmouth , . . .  318 

South  Berwick, 319 

Wells— Kennebunk—Saco— Portland, 320 

Lines  of  Travel  from  Portland, 322 

Augusta — Bangor, 324 

Lines  of  Travel  between  Boston  and  New- York,. .  325 

Providence — Newport, 326 

Stonington, 327 

Norwich — New  London, 328 

City  of  Hartford , 329 

City  of  New  Haven 331 

Railroads  in  New-England, 334 


^Ur 


TABLE  OF  ROUrES  OF  TRAVEL, 

THROUGH  THE  NORTHERN  AND  EASTERN  STATES,  AND 
CANADA — GIVING  THE  DISTANCE  AND  THE  USUAL 
TIMK. 


r 


Routes.  Miles.  Hours. 

1.  New- York  to  Philadelphia,  via  New- Jersey 

Railroad, 86      6 

2.  New-York  to  Baltimore,  via  Railroad  routes  182    13 

3.  New- York  to  Washington,  via    "        "       220    16 

4.  New- York  to  Boston,  via  Stonington  and 

Providence  Railroad, 224    14^ 

5.  New- York  to  Boston,   via.  Norwich  and 

Worcester  Railroad, 237     15 

6.  New- York  to  Springfield,  Mass.,  via  New- 

Haven  and  Hartford  Railroad, 143 

7.  New- York  to  Albany,  via  Housatonic  Rail- 

road,   200    14 

8.  New- York  to  Albany,  via  Piermont,  by 

Steamboat,  Railroad  and  Stage, 166    28 

9.  New- York  to  Albany,  east  side  Hudson 

River,  by  Stage, 154    28 

10.  New-Yorktc  Albany,  by  Steamboat  Route,  145    10 

11.  New- York  to  Dunkirk,  via  line  of  New- 

York  and  Erie  Raikoad, 475 

12.  Newburgh  to  Barcelona,  on  Lake  Erie,  by 

Stage, 387 

13.  Albany  to  Boston,  via  Railroad  Route,  . . .  200    12 

14.  Boston  to  Portland,  via  Eastern  Railroad,.  105      5| 

15.  Portland  to  Bangor,  by  Stage, 129    20 

16 .  Portland  to  Quebec,  via  Augusta  and  Nor- 

ridgewock,  by  Stage, 300 


VIII 


TABLE  OF  ROUTKS  OF  TRAVEL. 


rte*    ■  ■'■ 


Routes.  Miles.  Hours. 

17.  Boston  to  Bangor,  by  Steamboat  Route,  . .  245  18 

18.  Boston  to  Montreal,  via  Concord  and  Bur- 

lington, Vt.,    by  Railroad,    Stage  and 
Steamboat, 317 

19.  .Aj^bany  to  Montreal,  via  Lake  Champlain, 

by  Stage,  Steamboat  and  Railroad,  ....  250  36 

20.  Montreal  to  Quebec,  by  Steamboat, 180  12 

21.  Albany  to  Buffalo,  by  Railroad  Route,  ...   325  28 

22.  Albany  to  Buffalo,  via  Erie  Canal, 364  96 

23.  Schenectady  to  Buffalo,  by  Canal  Packet,.  334  72 

24 .  Utica  to  Binghamton,  by  Stage, 94  16 

25.  Utica  to  Ogdensburgh,  by  Stage, 125  24 

26.  Ogdeasburg)!  to  Plattsbargh,  by  Stage, 126  24 

27.  Syracuse  to  Niagara-Falls,  via  Oswego, 

by  Canal  Packet,  Steamboat  &  Railroad,  187  20 

28.  Rochester  to  Niagara- Falls,  via  Lockport,    80  12 

29.  Rochester  to  Olean,  by  Stage, 98  18 

30.  Rochester  to  Buffalo,  by  Railroad  Route,..     74  6 

31.  Rochester  to  Buffalo,  by  Erie  Canal 95  19 

32.  Buffalo  to  Kingston,  Canada,  via  Lewis- 

ton,  by  Railroad  and  Steamboat, 222  24 

33.  Kingston  to  Montreal,  via  St.  Lawrence 

River, 212  24 

34.  Lewiston  to  Detroit,  through  Canada,  by 

Stage, 263  72 

35.  Buffalo  to  Detroit,  by  Steamboat, 372  30 

36.  Buffalo  to  Chicago,  via  Detroit  and  St.  Jo- 

seph, by  Steamboat,  Railroad  and  Stage,  640  60 

37.  Buffalo  to  Chicago,  via  Lakes  Erie,  Huron 

and  Michigan,  Steamboat  Route, 104T  72 


«i'l 


11 


36 
12 
28 
96 
72 
16 
24 
24 

20 
12 
18 
6 
19 

24 

24 

72 

30 

60 


4 


72  > 


DESCRIPTION 

OF  THS 

CITY  AND  ISLAND  OF  NEW- YORK. 

SITUATION  AND  EXTENT. 

The  City  of  New- York  stands  on  an  Island  of  the 
same  name  ;  in  s.  lat.  40  dest.  42  min.  43  sec. ;  in  e. 
Lox.  from  the  Washington  meridian  3  deg.  1  min.  13  sec., 
and  west  from  Greenwich,  England,  78  deg.  59  min. 
46  sec.  Its  distance  from  Washington  is  220  miles,  by 
one  continuous  line  of  railroads.  ■  * 

The  Island  is  13^  miles  long,  north  and  south,  with  an 
average  width  of  1^  miles,  the  greatest  width  being  2| 
miles.  On  its  east  side  it  is  separated  from  Long  Island 
by  a  continuation  of  Long  Islaad  Sound  called  East  River, 
and  on  the  west  by  the  Hudson  River  from  New-Jersey. 
The  two  rivers  unite  at  the  southern  point  of  the  Island, 
and  form  the  spacious  Bay  of  New- York,  the  distance 
across  which,  and  through  the  •*  Narrows"  to  the  Atlan- 
tic ocean,  is  16  miles,  with  a  channel  sufficient  for  the 
largest  ships.  East  River  connects  with  Long  Island 
Sound  through  the  formidable  strait,  called  by  the  Dutch, 
^'  Helle-Gat."  On  the  north,  the  Island  is  separated  from 
the  main  land  by  the  Harlem  River,  which  opens  into  East 
River,  and  by  the  Spuyten  Duyvel  Creek  opening  into  the 
Hudson,  forming  a  continuous  but  winding  water-way  8 
miles  long.  The  southern  termination  of  the  island  and 
dty  is  a  spacious  esplanade  called  the  ''Battery,"  once 
fortified,  but  long  since  dismantled ;  planted  with  trees 
and  laid  out  with  public  walks.  A  fine  view  from  the 
Battery  forms  the  frontispiece  of  this  book. 

B 


10 


DESCRIPTION    OF 


H 


In  the  Bay,  fronting  the  Battery,  at  the  distance  of  lit- 
tle more  than  half  a  mile,  and  separated  from  Long  Is- 
land by  the  Butter-milk  channel,  is  Governor's  Island  ; 
while  toward  the  Jersey  shore  and  looking  up  the  Hud- 
son, are  Bedlow's  and  Ellis's  Islands.  These  all  were 
long  since  ceded  to  the  United  States,  (reserving  the  ju- 
risdiction of  the  state  and  city  for  the  service  of  legal  pro- 
cess,) and  are  strongly  fortified. 

In  the  East  River,  and  extending  in  succession  towards 
Hell-Gate,  are  Blackwell's,  Great-Barn,  and  Randall's  Is- 
lands, all  belonging  to  the  city  of  New- York  ;  and  on  the 
first  named  are  the  City  Penitentary  and  Lunatic  Asylum. 

DISCOVERY  AND  SETTLEMENT. 

The  Island  of  New- York  was  discovered  in  1609,  by 
Henrt  Hudson,  who  was  then  sailing  in  the  service  of 
the  Dutch.  It  was  formerly  called  Jlf anAa^^an,  from  the 
native  inhabitants — a  name,  says  Schoolcraft,  descriptive 
of  the  singular  whirlpool  of  "  Helle-Gat,"  the  most  ex- 
pressive feature  in  the  neighborhood,  and  which  may  be 
translated,  ''  the  people  of  the  whirlpool." 

The  first  settlement  of  white  men  on  this  Island  was 
made  by  the  Dutch  in  1613,  who  then  laid  the  foundation 
of  the  city,  under  the  name  of  New- Amsterdam,  which 
it  retained  till  its  conquest  in  1664,  by  the  English,  who 
changed  the  name  to  New- York.  Being  reconquered  in 
1673,  by  the  Dutch,  they  gave  it  the  name  of  New- 
Orange  ;  but  on  being  again  surrendered  to  the  English  by 
treaiy,  in  1674,  the  name  of  New- York  was  restored, 
and  has  been  retained  ever  since. 

The  municipal  authority  of  New- Amsterdam  was  vested 
in  two  Burgomasters,  five  assistants  called  Schepens,  and 
a  Schout  or  Sheriff.  The  English  changed  the  city  go- 
vernment to  its  present  form,  under  a  charter  granted  in 
1665,  Nicolls  being  governor  of  the  province.    In  1686. 


I 


NEW-YORK 


&l 


TY. 


11 


under  Gov.  Dongan,  the  charftr  was  enlarged,  and  again, 
in  1730,  under  Gov.  Montgomerie.  Under  these  charters, 
the  mayor  was  appointed  by  the  governor,  and  the 
men  and  assistants  were  elective.  The  charter 
as  amended  by  acts  of  the  state  legislature,  is  sti 

From  1674  to  1783,  the  city  and  surroum 
were  in  possession  of  the  English,  under  the 
tion  of  governors  appointed  by  the  British 
ing  that  period  the  city  increased  slowly  in  n 
ing,  in  1750,  only  about  10,000  inhabitants. 
British  evacuated  the  city,  November  25, 
tained  about  24,000  inhabitants  ;  which,  in  1790 
creased  to  33,131— in  1800,  to  60,489— in  1810,  to  96,373 
—in  1820,  to  123,70&— in  1830,  to  202,089,  and  in  1840, 
to  312,710 ;  being  at  the  present  time  by  far  the  most 
populous  and  important  city  on  the  continent  of  America. 

The  city  was  originally  built  up  without  any  regular 
plan,  and  its  streets  were  for  the  most  part  narrow  and 
crooked.  As  late  as  1783,  Chambers-street  was  the  limit 
of  the  city  on  the  north,  and  Catharine-street  on  the  east 
towards  Corlear's  Hook.  But  the  anticipated  growth  of 
the  city,  soon  after  the  close  of  the  revolutionary  war, 
and  especially  on  the  adoption  of  the  present  Federal  Con- 
stitution, led  to  great  public  improvements,  which  were 
conducted  in  a  systematic  manner,  being  greatly  facilitat- 
ed by  the  extraordinary  powers  exercised  by  the  corporate 
authorities  for  the  assessment  of  private  property. 

Wide  and  commodious  avenues  and  streets  have  thus 
taken  the  place  of  the  narrow  and  irregular  thoroughfares 
of  the  olden  times.  Hills  have  been  levelled,  rough 
places  made  smooth,  and  bogs  and  marshes  filled  up,  until 
the  city  now  presents  a  uniform  grade  throughout.  It 
extends  about  three  miles  from  the  Battery  towards  the 
north,  and  across  the  Island  from  river  to  river.    The 


DBBOniPTION   OF 


Style  of  building  has  impil^ved  from  time  to  time,  and 
within  the  last  ten  years  has  reached  a  high  degree  of  ele« 
gance  and  convenience.  The  upper  or  north  part  of  the 
city  has  been  laid  out  into  spacious  streets,  ivith  wide  and 
convenient  sidewalks,  formed  of  large  flag- stones ;  and 
the  houses,  built  of  brick  in  uniform  blocks^  with  marble 
steps,  and  highly  ornamented  balustrades  of  cast-iron  in 
front,  present  an  imposing  and  agreeable  aspect.  This  is 
now  the  fashionable  quarter,  the  lower  part  of  the  city 
being  comparatively  deserted  even  by  old  residents,  whose 
former  mansions  are  converted  into  boarding  houses,  or 
have  given  place  to  shops  or  warehouses. 

The  City  is  now  divided  into  17  Wartls;  each  Ward  elect- 
ing one  Alderman,  one  Assistant  Aldennan,  two  Assessors, 
one  Collectoi',  &c.  The  following  table  shows  the  com- 
parative population  of  the  Wards  at  different  periods »— 


WARDS. 

1825. 

1830. 

1835. 

1840. 

First, 

Second,  

Thinl, 

Fourth, ...... 

Fifth, 

Sixth, 

Seventh, 

Eighth, 

Ninth, 

Tenth, 

Eleventh, .... 

Twelfth, 

Thirteenth,*. . 
Fourteenth,*  . 
Fifteenth,! . . . 
Sixteenth,  j: . . . 
Seventeenth,  § 

9,929 

9,315 

10,201 

12,210 

15,093 

20,061 

14,192 

24,285 

10,956 

23,982 

7,344 

7,938 

11,331 
8,203 
9,599 
12,705 
17,722 
13,570 
15,873 
20,729 
22,810 
16,4.38 
14,915 
11,808 
12,598 
14,288 

10,380 
7,549 
10,884 
15,439 
18,495 
16,827 
21,481 
28,570 
20,618 
20,926 
26,845 
24,437 
17,130 
17,306 
13,202 

10,629 
6,394 
11,681 
15,770 
19,159 
17,198 
22,982 
29,073 
24,795 
29,026 
17,052 
11,652 
18,671 
20,235 
17,755 
22,273 
18,619 

Total,.... 

166,086 

2ai;,589 

270,089 

312,710 

ThcM  two  Wards  were  constituted  in  1826,  the  13th  being  taken 
from  the  10th,  and  the  14th  from  the  6th  and  8th  Words, 
t  Taken  from  the  9th  Ward,  1832. 
t  Taken  from  the  12th  or  out-ward,  1836. 
S  Taken  from  ttie  11th  Ward,  1837. 


. 


HKW-YORK   CITY. 


13 


:en 


STREETS. 

The  principal  street  is  Broadway,  extending  in  a 
northerly  direction  from  the  Battery  a  distance  of  three 
miles  along  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  intersected  at  right 
angles  by  streets  that  slope  gradually  to  each  river.  It  is 
HO  feet  wide,  with  spacious  side-walks  that  afford  a  fa- 
vorite  promenade  in  fine  weather  for  the  gay  and  fashiona- 
ble.  Here  are  to  be  found  the  most  extensive  hotels,  dry 
goods  stores,  fancy  shops,  confectionaries ;  jewellers, 
booksellers,  grocers,  tailors,  milliners,  and  in  general  all 
the  various  establishments  that  furnish  the  elegancies  and 
luxuries  of  life  in  the  greatest  perfection. 

The  BowERT  is  about  two-thirds  the  length  of  Broad- 
way, but  is  a  much  wider  street.  The  name  is  derived 
from  the  Dutch  boutoery,  signifying  a  farm,  and  the  street 
was  originally  called  Bowery- lane,  from  its  leading  th.'OUgh 
the  public  farms.  It  runs  n^^arly  parallel  with  Broadway, 
on  the  east,  and  being  chiefly  a  business  street,  has  a 
lively  and  animated  appearance.  It  is  the  great  thorough- 
fare for  country  wagons  and  market  people  from  West- 
Chester  county,  with  which  it  communicates  by  the  Har* 
lem  Railroad  and  Third  Avenue. 

Chatham- STREET ,  (named  from  the  Earl  of  Chatham,) 
connects  the  Bowery  with  Broadway  and  Nassau-street : 
an  immense  population  pours  through  it  at  all  times  from 
the  eastern  part  of  the  city,  and  Broadway,  below  its  junc« 
tion  with  this  street,  is  often  so  thronged  as  to  render  it 
hazardous,  if  not  impracticable,  for  foot  passengers  to 
cross  it. 

East  Broadway  is  a  spacious  and  elegant  street  on 
the  east  side  of  the  town,  and  parallel  with  it  are  Henry, 
Madison  and  Monroe-streets,  all  handsomely  built  up 
with  private  residences,  in  the  neighborhood  of  East  Ri* 


14 


DBSCRIPTION    or 


1 


ver.  The  principal  streets  crossing  Broadway  and  term!* 
nating  at  East  River,  are  Grand,  Broome,  Houstoun, 
Fourth  and  Eighth-streets. 

On  the  west  side,  Greenwich  and  Hudson-streets 
are  the  most  spacious  and  fashionable  ;  they  run  parallel 
to  the  Hudson,  and  are  about  two  miles  and  a  half  in 
length.  Washington  and  West-streets  are  of  the 
same  length,  and  have  a  parallel  course;  the  latter  ex- 
tends along  the  river. 

Between  the  lower  part  of  Broadway  and  East  River 
are  Nassau,  William,  Pearl,  Water,  Front  and  South- 
streets,  intersected  by  Fulton- street,  Maiden-Lane,  Li- 
berty, Cedar,  Pine,  Wall  and  Broad- streets,  all  of  which 
are  occupied  with  the  great  commercial  interests  of  the 
city.  A  considerable  part  of  this  quarter  of  the  city  was 
destroyed  by  the  great  fire  of  December,  1835,  but  it  has 
since  been  entirely  rebuilt  in  a  much  superior  style. 

Wall-street  contains  the  Merchant's  Exchange,  Cus- 
tom House,  and  numerous  other  splendid  edifices,  recent- 
ly built,  occupied  by  insurance  and  banking  companies. 

The  Avenues  (so  called)  are  sixteen  in  number  and 
extend  from  the  upper  parts  of  the  city  to  Harlem  river  ; 
they  are  in  general  100  feet  wide,  as  laid  out,  but  are  not 
all  graded.  They  are  crossed  by  streets  running  from  ri- 
ver to  river,  some  of  which  are  of  equal  width  with  the 
Avenues.  The  Third  Avenue  leads  to  Harlem  bridge, 
and  being  macadamized  throughout  its  whole  extent, 
(about  7  miles)  affords  a  pleasant  drive  from  the  city. 
The  Harlem  Railroad  is  laid  upon  the  Fourth  Ave- 
nue. The  Bloomingdale  road,  (a  continuation  of  Broad- 
way,) is  another  favorite  route  for  drives  in  pleasant 
weather,  leading  to  the  villages  of  Bloomingdale  and 
Manhattanville,  along  the  bank  of  the  Hudson. 


NEW-YORK    CITY. 


15 


PARKS  AND  PUBLIC  SQUARES. 

Of  the  public  squares  the  Battery  is  the  principal. 
It  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  bay  and  harbor,  and  of  the 
adjacent  islands  and  opposite  shores.  It  contains  about 
eleven  acres  of  ground,  laid  out  in  gravel  walks  and  or* 
namented  with  trees  and  shrubbery.  As  a  public  pro- 
menade it  is,  probably,  not  surpassed  in  the  beauty  of 
its  situation  and  general  attractions  by  any  other  in  the 
world.  A  castle,  built  on  a  mole  in  the  harbor,  is  connect- 
ed  with  the  grounds  by  a  bridge,  and  is  now  used  as  a 
place  of  amusement,  and  for  the  exhibition  of  fire  works. 

The  Park  is  a  triantrular  area  of  about  ten  acres, 
handsomely  disposed  into  grass-plots  and  walks,  and  con- 
tains the  City  Hall  with  other  public  buildings.  It  is 
an  ornament  to  the  city,  and  is  much  thronged  on  gala 
days  ;  especially  on  *hd  anniversary  of  American  Inde- 
pendence, and  other  public  occcasions.  The  Fountain 
which  now  adorns  this  Park  is  greatly  admired. 

Washington  Square,  of  about  the  same  extent  as 
the  Park,  is  in  the  upper  part  of  the  city,  between  Fourth- 
street  and  Waverley  Place.  The  University  and  a  new 
Dutch  church  in  the  Gothic  style,  front  on  this  square. 

Tompkins  Square,  on  the  east  of  the  Bowery,  be- 
tween Seventh  and  Tenth- streets,  is  handsomely  laid  out, 
and  affords  a  fine  view  of  East  River  and  the  opposite 
shore  of  Long  "Island.  It  is  a  place  of  great  resort  dur- 
ing the  warm  season,  especially  on  Sundays,  and  is  a 
favorite  parade  ground  for  the  military  corps  of  the  city. 
Stages  are  constantly  running  between  this  square  and  the 
Battery,  and  improvements  are  rapidly  going  forward  in 
its  vicinity. 

Union  Place,  at  the  common  termination  of  the 
Bowery,  Broadway  and  University  Place,  between  Four- 
teenth ani  Seventeenth -streets,  is  laid  out  in  a  tasteful 


16 


DBBORIPTIOR    Or 


H 


manner  and  sorroanded  by  an  elegant  paling  of  cast  iron. 
Madison,  Hamilton,  and  Stuyvesant  squares  are  not  yet 
open  to  the  public. 

The  Bowling  Green  is  a  small  enclosure  at  the  foot 
of  Broadway,  near  the  Battery.  It  is  ornamented  with 
a  beautiful  Fountain — a  view  of  which  embellishes  this 
work  as  a  vignette. 

Hudson  Square  or  St.  John's  Park,  in  the  central 
part  of  the  city,  between  Hudson  and  Varick- streets,  be> 
longs  to  Trinity  church,  and  is  open  only  :o  privileged 
persons.  It  is  a  beautiful  green  of  about  four  acres,  filled 
with  shrubs  and  flowers,  enclosed  by  a  high  iron  paling. 
St.  John's  church,  (a  chapel  of  Trinity,)  with  its  lofty 
spire,  240  feet  high,  fronts  on  the  east  side  of  this  square, 
and  adds  to  the  beauty  of  the  situation. 

PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 

The  public  buildings  are  numerous,  and  many  of  them 
are  justly  admired  for  their  architectural  beauty  and  sub< 
stantial  character.  The  new  Merchants'  Exchange, 
erected  on  the  site  of  the  former,  which  was  destroyed  by 
the  great  fire,  is  the  largest  and  most  costly  edifice  in  the 
city.  The  material  of  which  it  is  built,  is  the  dark  blue 
Quincy  granite,  (sienite ;)  no  wood  is  used  in  any  part 
of  the  build  «g  ;  the  whole  is  solid  masonry.  It  occupies 
an  entire  V  >ck  of  ground  fronting  on  Wall- street,  being 
about  200  ioet  in  length  by  171,  and  144  feet  in  depth.  It 
is  77  feet  high  to  the  top  of  the  cornice,  and  124  feet  from 
the  foundation  to  the  apex  of  the  dome.  In  front  is  a  re- 
cessed  portico  with  eighteen  massive  columns  of  granite, 
beautifully  wrought  in  the  Ionic  style.  These  columns 
are  38  feet  in  height,  and  4  feet,  4  inches  in  diame- 
ter, each  weijhin^r  thirty- three  tons.  They  are  said  to  be 
tbe  largest  monoliihs  iU  the  world,  excepting  only  the  co« 


NBW'YORK    CITY. 


17 


lumns  of  a  church  at  St.  Petersburgh.  Thf  "xchange 
room  or  rotunda  is  in  the  centre  of  the  building,  iOO  feet 
in  diameter,  and  90  feet  in  height  to  the  top  of  the  dome. 
The  dome  is  ioUd  masonry,  80  feet  in  diameter,  sup- 
ported  in  part  by  eight  Corinthian  columns  of  beautii  A 
Italian  mnrbl-.  These  are  41  feet  in  height,  and  4  feet 
8  iuch  -.  i  >  lio  oeter.  A  more  magnificent  apartment  is 
selOom  St  m.  i'he  effect  on  the  beholder  when  first  seen, 
is  g.an<1  -md  sublime.  The  entire  cost  of  the  building, 
including  the  ground,  is  stated  at  $1,800,000  ;  the  origi* 
nal  estimate  was  one-third  of  that  sum.  It  was  erected 
by  a  coitipany  called  the  Merchants'  Exchange  Company, 
incorporated  in  1823,  with  a  capital  of  one  million. 

The  new  Custom  House,  is  another  recent  addition  to 
the  public  edifices  of  {he  city.  It  is  modelled  after  the 
Parthenon  at  Athens,  and  is  nearly  of  the  same  size  as 
that  celebrated  temple.  The  external  walls  and  the  roof 
are  of  white  mavble,  and  the  entire  building  is  finished 
without  wood,  so  as  to  be  completely  fire  proof.  It  is 
200  feet  long  by  90  wide,  and  about  80  feet  in  height.* 

It  has  two  fronts  ;  the  principal  one  on  Wall  street,  at 
the  head  of  Broad-street,  and  the  other  on  Pine  street ; 
each  containing  a  row  of  finely  wrought  marble  columns 
32  feet  high,  of  the  Doric  order.  The  business  hall  oc- 
cupies the  centre  of  the  building ;  it  is  a  rotunda  sur- 
mounted by  a  dome,  supported  by  sixteen  beautiful  Co- 
rinthian columns  30  feei  high.  The  diameter  of  this  room 
is  80  feet.  The  arcbrtectural  ornaments  of  the  interior 
T  •  e  numerous,  beautifully  designed,  and  exquisitely  finish- 
ed. This  superb  edifice  was  commenced  in  May,  1834, 
and  finished  in  May,  1841.  The  cost,  ground  inclusive, 
wa8$l,175,000— building  alone,  $950,000. 


'Tlie  dimensions  of  dw  Pwtiienoa  were  217  feet  loag,  98  broad  and 
00  tugn. 


18 


DBSCRIPTIOir   OP 


The  Hall  of  Justice,  built  in  the  Egyptian  style,  is 
a  remarkable  structure.  It  fronts  on  Centre-street,  and 
occupies  a  block  of  ground  253  feet  long  by  200  wide,  in* 
eluding,  however,  in  this  space  a  prison,  which  is  detached 
from  the  main  building.  Its  massive  Theban  columns 
with  their  gigantic  palm-leaved  capitals,  and  its  cornices, 
ornamented  with  winged  globes  encircled  by  serpents, 
give  a  singular  eflfect  to  the  building.  The  criminal  courts 
of  the  city  and  the  city  prison  are  to  be  found  in  this 
gloomy  pile,  which  has  gained  the  sobriquet  of  the 
"  Egyptian  Tombs."  The  building  was  finished  in  1838, 
being  constructed  of  light  colored  granite. 

Tha  New- York  University,  on  Washington  Square, 
is  built  in  the  Gothic  style,  and  has  a  commanding  ap- 
pearance. It  is  180  feet  long  by  100  wide.  The  front  is 
composed  of  a  centre  building  with  wings  flanked  by 
towers,  one  on  each  of  the  four  corners  of  the  edifice. 
The  centre  rises  above  the  wings,  and  contains  in  front  a 
large  Gothic  window  of  stained  glass,  50  feet  high  by  24 
wide.  This  part  of  the  building  contains  the  Chapel, 
which  is  much  admired  for  its  architectural  beauty.  Its 
lofty  ceiling  adorned  with  Gothic  tracery,  and  the  richly 
carved  columns  and  pannelings  of  oak,  give  it  an  antique 
air,  and  produce  a  striking  effect.  The  wings  of  the  edi- 
fice are  four  stories  high,  and  the  towers  five  ;  the  last 
are  surmounted  by  embattled  parapets.  The  main  en- 
trance is  under  the  great  central  window,  through  a  deep 
portal  of  richly  moulded  stone,  and  a  door  of  massive 
oak.  This  building  is  of  recent  date,  having  been  com- 
pleted in  1836. 

Among  the  older  public  edifices,  the  Citt  Hall,  is 
pre-eminent.  It  is  situated  in  the  Park,  and  consists  of 
a  centre  building  with  wings,  principally  of  the  Ionic  and 
Corinthian  orders.    The  entire  front  is  216  feet  long,  by 


1 


NEW-YORK   CITY. 


19 


105  deep  ;  the  front  and  ends  are  built  of  white  marble, 
and  the  rear  of  free  stone.  It  is  chiefly  occupied  by  the 
civil  courts,  and  the  common  council,  both  branches  of 
the  latter  and  the  mayor  having  their  respective  apart- 
ments. The  United  States  Courts  are  held  in  a  large 
brick  building  in  the  rear  of  the  City  Hall,  originally 
built  and  occupied  as  an  Alms-House. 

At  Bellevue,  on  East  River,  21  miles  from  the  City 
Hall,  are  several  public  buildings,  as  the  new  Alms- 
house, a  large  stone  edifice,  well  adapted  to  the  purposes 
for  which  it  is  used  ;  a  Hospital  connected  with  it  for  the 
sick  and  insane  poor ;  the  House  of  Refuge  for  juvenile 
delinquents  ;  and  a  Penitentiary  for  the  punishment  of  fe- 
male convicts.  An  Asylum  for  the  insane  poor  of  the 
city  has  been  recently  erected  on  Blackwell's  Island, 
where  there  is  also  a  Prison  for  male  convicts.  Opposite 
Black  well's  Island  are  the  Long  Island  Farms,  where  are 
schools  and  nurseries  for  pauper  children,  liberally  sus- 
tained in  connection  with  the  Alms-House. 


last 
en- 


iS 

of 
and 
by 


CHURCHES. 

The  number  of  Churches  is  about  one  hundred  and 
sixty,  as  follows  :  Presbyterian,  thirty-seven ;  Episcopa- 
lian, twenty-six  j  Methodist,  twenty-three  ;  Baptist,  six- 
teen ;  Dutch  Reformed,  thirteen  j  Roman  Catholic,  nine  ; 
African,  ten  j  German  Lutheran  and  Reformed,  six  j  Jews' 
Synagogues,  four ;  Quakers  or  Friends,  four  ;  Universa- 
lists,  four  ;  Unitarians,  two  ;  and  others,  seven. 

Many  of  the  Churches  are  handsomely  built ;  of  these 
are  the  new  Dutch  Reformed  Churches  on  Washington 
Square  and  La  Fayette  Place ;  the  Church  of  the  Mes- 
siah,  (Unitarian;)  St.  Peters,  (Roman Catholic  ;)  French 
Protestant  du  St.  Esprit ;  the  Church  of  the  Ascension, 
St.  Paul's,  and  St.  Peter's,  (Episcopalian ;)  Presbyterian 


20 


DfiSCRIPTXOir    OF 


Churches  on'  Duane,  Grand  and  Mercer-streets  ;  First 
Baptist  Church  on  Broome*street,  &c. 

The  Church  now  building  on  the  site  of  old  Trinity,  at 
the  head  of  Wall-street,  will  far  surpass  all  others  in  the 
city  in  its  extent  and  architectural  splenior ;  its  length  is 
189  feet  by  84  in  breadth ;  height  64 ;  height  of  tower 
and  spire,  264  feet. 

There  are  congregations  of  French,  Germans,  and 
Welch,  who  have  religious  services  conducted  in  their  re- 
spective languages. 

LITERARY  AND  SCIENTIFIC  INSTITUTIONS. 
Columbia  College  the  oldest  literary  institution  in 
the  city,  was  founded  in  1754,  and  was  originally  called 
King's  College.  It  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  square  ad- 
joining Park  Plade,  west  of  the  City  Hall,  where  the  col- 
lege buildings  were  erected  in  1760.  For  a  considerable 
period  there  were  no  other  buildings  of  any  kind  in  the 
immediate  neighborhood  of  the  college,  which  thus  en- 
joyed an  extensive  and  unobstructed  view  of  the  opposite 
shore  and  country  of  New-Jersey,  Long  Island,  Staten 
Island,  and  New- York  Bay,  &c.  This  college  has  always 
sustained  a  high  character  as  a  seminary  of  learning, 
having  from  the  beginning  enjoyed  the  services  of  emi- 
nent scholars  in  the  various  departments  of  instruction. 

The  Univebsity  of  the  city  of  New- York,  is  a 
youthful  institution;  it  was  chartered  in  1831 ,  and  is  rapid- 
ly increasing  in  importance  and  favor.  Connected  with 
it  is  a  Medical  School  of  high  reputation.  Its  location 
is  unrivalled,  fronting  Washington  Park  on  the  west, 
which  is  ornamented  with  shade  trees  and  laid  out  with 
gravelled  walks. 

The  General  Theolooical  Seminary  of  the 
Episcopal  Church,  is  situated  on  Twentieth-street,  cor- 
ner  of  the  Ninth  Avenue,  near  the  Hudson,  2  miles  north 


m 


NEW-TORK   CITY. 


il 


from  the  City  Hall,  a  part  of  the  city  known  as  Chelsea. 
There  are  two  handsome  buildings  of  stone  for  the  ac> 
commodation  of  the  professors  and  students ;  the  board 
of  trustees  consists  oyf  all  the  bishops,  and  one  other  trus- 
tee from  each  diocese  in  the  United  States.  The  institu* 
tion  is  well  endowed,  and  in  a  flourishing  condition. 

The  New-Yokk  Theological  Seminary  near  the 
University,  is  under  the  direction  of  the  Presbyterit.n 
church,  although  open  to  all  christian  denominations. 
Its  library  is  of  great  value,  consisting  of  16,000  volumes, 
formerly  the  property  of  a  German  clergyman.  Rev. 
Leander  Van  Ess,  after  whose  decease  it  was  purchased. 

Of  the  literary  associations,  the  oldest  is  the  New- 
York  Society  Library,  founded  in  1754,  which  occn- 
pies  a  new  and  beautiful  building  recently  erected  on 
Broadway,  corner  of  Leonard- street.  The  library  is 
the  largest  and  most  valuable  in  the  state,  and  is  con- 
stantly increasing ;  it  now  consists  of  nearly  40,000  vo- 
lumes. An  extensive  reading  room  is  connected  with  it, 
in  some  respects  the  best  in  the  city.  The  institution  is 
governed  by  a  board  of  twelve  trustees,  who  are  annual- 
ly elected  by  the  shareholders. 

The  New- York  Historical  Society,  formed  in  1804, 
at  present  occupies  a  suite  of  rooms  in  the  University, 
where  its  library,  comprising  about  12,000  volumes,  is 
situated.  It  has  published  several  volumes  of  historical 
collections,  and  ranks  among  the  most  active  and  distin* 
guished  literary  associations  in  this  country. 

The  Lyceum  of  Natural  History,  established  in 
1818,  has  done  much  for  the  promotion  of  natural  science 
in  this  country.  The  building  in  which  its  library  and 
cabinet  kre  deposited,  is  on  Broadway,  near  Prince* 
street ;  it  veas  erected  at  the  expense  of  the  Lyceum. 


DBSCRiPTioir  or 


The  Mercantile  Libbart  Association  is  formed 
chiefly  of  merchants'  clerks.  Its  library  consists  of  about 
22,000  volumes,  connected  with  which  there  is  an  excel- 
lent reading  room.  The  number  of  members  in  1840, 
was  over  5,000.  An  annual  course  of  lectures  is  de- 
livered before  this  association  at  Clinton  Hall,  where 
the  library  is  also  kept. 

The  Apprentices'  Library  in  Crosby- street,  contains 
about  12,000  volumes.  It  was  established  in  1820,  by 
the  General  Society  of  Mechanics  and  Tradesmen. 

The  American  Institute  for  the  encouragement  of 
American  industry,  formed  in  1828,  has  a  valuable  li- 
brary of  about  5,000  volumes,  situated  in  the  spacious 
building  in  the  rear  of  the  City  Hall.  Under  the  direc- 
tion of  this  Institute  annual  fairs  are  held  in  the  city  at 
Niblo's  Garden,  for  the  exhibition  of  American  manu- 
factures in  every  department  of  human  industry. 

The  Mechanics'  Institute  occupies  rooms  in  the 
basement  of  the  City  Hall,  where  it  has  a  library  and 
reading  room ;  a  course  of  lectures  is  also  given  under  its 
auspices  every  winter. 

The  National  Academy  of  Design,  established  in 
1826,  for  the  encouragement  of  the  fine  arts,  occupies 
rooms  in  the  Society  Library's  building,  where  are  held 
its  annual  exhibitions  of  paintings.  The  Apollo  Asso- 
ciation, incorporated  in  1840,  for  a  similar  purpose,  is  a 
popular  institution. 

Other  miscellaneous  associations,  are  the  Sacred  Music 
Society,  for  the  improvement  of  church  music ;  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  formed  in  1768  ;  the  Board  oi 
Trade  ;  the  Board  of  Underwriters  ;  the  Board  of  Stock 
and  Exchange  Brokers  ;  the  New- York  Lyceum,  with  a 
library  and  reading  room,  and  annual  lectures  ;  together 
with  many  other  institutions  of  kss  note. 


W 


NEW-YORK    CITY. 


23 


USIC 

tbe 
d  of 
tock 
tha 
ther 


BENEVOLENT  INSTITUTIONS. 

Among  the  benevolent  institutions  of  the  city,  is  the 
Institution  for  the  Blind  situated  on  the  Eighth  Ave- 
nue, having  seventy-two  pupils  ;  the  Institution  for 
the  Instruction  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  incorporated  in 
1817,  on  FiAieth-street,  3^  miles  from  the  City  Hall, 
containing  by  the  last  report,  152  pupils  ;  the  Lying-in- 
Asylum  ;  the  Female  Assistance  Society^  for  the  relief 
and  instruction  of  the  sick  poor  ;  the  society  for  respec- 
table aged  Indigent  Females  ;  the  Orphan  Asylum,  es- 
tablished in  1806,  situated  on  the  Hudson  at  Blooming- 
dale,  five  miles  from  the  City  Hall,  where  great  num- 
bers of  indigent  orphan  children  are  reared  and  educat- 
ed ;  the  Protestant  Half  Orphan  Asylum  on  Twelfth- 
street  ;  the  Roman  Catholic  Orphan  Asylum  on  Prince- 
street  ;  the  Asylum  for  Colored  Orphans,  &c. 

The  foreign  residents' have  associations  for  charitable 
purposes,  as  the  St.  George's  Society,  composed  of  Eng- 
lishmen ;  St.  Andrew's,  of  Scotch ;  St.  Patrick's,  of  Irish  ,* 
St.  Duvid's,  of  Welch ;  the  French,  German,  Spanish  and 
Hebrew  Societies ;  the  St.  Nicholas,  composed  of  the 
descendants  of  the  early  Dutch  inhabitants  and  others, 
and  the  New  England  Society. 

There  are  also  numerous  religious  associations,  as  the 
Bible,  Tract,  Missionary,  Sunday  School,  Education, 
and  Seamen's  Friend  Societies,  most  of  which  are  sus- 
tained by  particular  denominations  or  sects,  each  having 
its  own  distinct  organization. 

PLACES  OF   AMUSEMENT. 
There  are  four  Theatres  in  the  city  of  New- York,  be- 
sides numerous  other  places  of  amusement. 
Park  Theatre, 
Situated  on  Park  Row,  facing  the  Astor  House,  is  an 
old  and  fashionable  place  of  resort  for  those  fond  of 


m 


DBSCRIPTIOIf    OP 


m 


theatrical  entertainments.  It  was  first  erected  in  1798, 
and  the  interior  destroyed  by  fire  May  24,  1820  ;  it  was 
rebuilt,  except  the  walls  which  were  left  standing,  and 
opened  in  August,  1821.  This  Theatre  is  calculated  to 
seat  about  2,000  persons. 

The  Bowery  Theatre, 

Was  first  erected  in  1826.  It  was  burnt  in  May,  1828, 
and  immediately  afterwards  rebuilt,  an^  opened  in 
August  of  the  same  year.  It  has  since  been  destroyed 
by  fire,  and  again  risen  phanix-like,  from  its  ashes. 
The  new  building  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  Doric  order 
of  architecture  ;  the  interior  being  elegant  and  fitted  up 
in  a  superior  style. 

The  Olympic  Theatre, 

Situated  on  Broadway,  above  Canal- street,  is  a  much 
frequented  and  popular  place  of  amusement. 

The  Chatham  Theatre  and  Circus, 

Is  situated  on  Chatham- street,  and  is  an  entertaining 
place  of  amusement. 

A  new  Italian  Opera  Hottse,  has  recently  been 
fitted  up  in  Chambers-street,  over  the  Arcade  Baths,  in 
the  rear  of  the  City  Hall,  and  is  called  Palmo's  yew- 
York  Opera  House. 

The  Bowery  Amphitheatre,  or  Circus,  situated 
on  the  Bowery,  near  the  Theatre,  is  also  much  fre- 
quented. 

Theatrical  entertainments  are  given  during  the  sum- 
mer at  NiBLo's  Garden,  576  Broadway,  and  at  Vaux- 
HALL  Garden,  408  Bowery. 

Castle  Garden,  at  the  south-west  angle  of  the  Bat- 
tery, is  also  a  place  of  much  attraction,  where  is  occa- 
sionally given  a  grand  display  of  fire  works. 

There  are  also  several  other  Public  Gardens,  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  city. 


, 


# 


NEW-YORK   CITY. 


•m 


The  American  Museum, 
At  the  corner  of  Broadway  and  Ann-street,  is  an  old 
and  popular  place  of  amusement  and  instruction.  It  was 
founded  by  the  late  John  Scudder  in  1810,  and  now  con- 
tains  an  immense  collection  of  natural  and  artificial  curi- 
osities, which  have  been  brought  together  by  the  arduous 
and  unremitting  exertions  of  its  proprietors,  during  a  period 
of  more  than  thirty  years.  It  is  now  said  to  contain  over 
half  a  million  of  specimens,  arranged  in  six  splendid  halls, 
each  measuring  upwards  of  100  feet  in  length. 

The  New- York  Museum, 
Formerly  called  Peale's  Museum,  is  situated  on  Broad- 
way opposite  the  City  Hall.  This  is  an  extensive  and  in- 
teresting collection  of  natural  and  artificial  curiosities, 
taken  from  every  part  of  the  world ;  the  whole  being 
handsomely  displayed  in  several  spacious  apartments. 
It  contains  also  a  Gallery  of  Portraits,  and  other  paintings 
by  eminent  artists. 

HOTELS  AND  PUBLIC  HOUSES. 

No  city  is  more  amply  supplied  with  Hotels  and  other 
Houses,  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers  and  pcrma-^ 
nent  boarders,  than  New-York.  The  most  noted  are  sit- 
uated on  Broadway,  and  they  are  usually  thronged  with 
persons  from  all  parts  of  the  Union,  and  from  foreign 
countries. 

The  AsTOR  House,  built  of  granite,  is  a  very  exten- 
sive and  imposing  edifice ;  being  five  stories  high,  and 
calculated  to  accommodate  400  guests.  It  is  situated  on 
Broadway,  between  Barclay  and  Vesey-streets. 

The  others  of  note  are  included  in  the  following  enu- 
meration : 

The  American  Hotel,  Broadway,  corner  Barclay-st. 

ATHENiEUM  Hotel,  347  Broadway,  corner  Leonard-st. 

C 


J^ 


10  DESCRIPTION     OF 

i 

Atlantic  Hotel,  5  Broadway,  near  the  Battery. 

Battery  Hotel,  8  Battery- Place. 

Carlton  Hou.se,  Broadway,  corner  Leonard-street. 

City  Hotel,  Broadv.ay,  between  Cedar  and  Thames- 
streets. 

Clinton  Ho;j;el,  Beekraan,  corner  Nassr   -street. 

Croton  Hotel,  (Temperance,)   142  Broadway. 

I3unning's  Hotel,  Cortlandi,  corner  Washington-st. 

Eagle  Hotel,  G1  Broadway. 

Franklin  House,  Broadway,  corner  Dey-street. 

Glode  Hotel,  G6  Broadway. 

Howard's  Hotel,  Broadway,  corner  Maiden-Lane. 

Lovejoy's  Hotel,  Park-Row,  corner  Beekman- street. 

Mansion  House,  (Bunker's,)  39  Broadway. 

Merchants'  Hotel,  Cortlandt,  near  Greenwich-st. 

Northern  Hotel,  Cortlandt,  corner  West-street. 

Pacific  Hotel,  162  Greenwich-street. 

Pearl-Street  House,  88  Pearl-street. 

United  States  Hotel,  Fulton,  between  Pearl  and 
Water-streets. 

Washington  Hotel,  Broadway,  corner  Reade-street. 

Waverley  House,  56  Broadway. 

Western  Hotel,  9  Cortlandt-street,  near  Broadway. 

Tammany  Hall,  Nassau,  corner  Frankfort- street,  and 
several  other  Public  Houses,  are  kept  on  the  European 
Plan,  of  letting  out  rooms  by  the  day  or  week,  and  the 
occupant  petting  his  meals  when  and  where  he  chooses. 

There  are  numerous  private  Boarding  Houses,  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  city,  affording  all  the  quiet  and  comfort 
that  can  be  desired,  varying  in  their  charges  according  to 
their  situation  and  style  of  living. 

There  are  also  a  great  number  of  Restaurants,  or 
Eating  Houses,  in  the  lower  part  of  the  city,  which  are 
much  resorted  to  by  citizens  and  strangers, — the  bills  of 
fare  being  generally  good,  and  the  charges  reasonable. 


% 


NEW-YORK    CITY. 


27 


HACKNEY  COACHES,  CABS  AND  OMNIBUSSES, 

Throng  the  principal  streets,  especially  Broadway  and 
the  Bowery.  Regular  lines  ol'  Omnibusses  run  between  the 
upper  and  lower  parts  of  the  city,  affording  a  cheap  and 
certain  mode  of  conveyance.  Hackney  Coaches  and  Cabs 
are  to  be  found  at  'He  various  stands  in  different  parts  of 
the  city,  and  »  i  .  Steamhoat  landings.  In  order  to 
guard  against  impositions  from  their  drivers,  it  is  neces- 
sary that  the  stranger  should  make  himself  acquainted 
with  the  rates  of  fare  allowed  by  law,  to  violate  which 
subjects  them  to  a  fine.  These  rates  are — for  conveying 
a  passenger  any  distance  not  exceeding  one  mile,  37^ 
cents ;  and  for  every  additional  passenger,  25  cents,  in- 
cluding ordinary  baggage. 

MARKETS. 

The  largest  and  most  important  Markets  are, 

Fulton  Market,  situated  on  South-street,  between 
Fulton  and  Beekman- streets. 

Washington  Market,  on  West-street,  between  Ful- 
ton  and  Dey-streets. 

Catharine  Market,  in  Catharine-street,  running 
from  Cherry  to  South- street. 

Centre  Market,  between  Grand  and  Broome-streets. 

Essex  Mapket,  on  Grand-street,  corner  Essex-street. 

Clinton  Market,  at  the  foot  of  Canal-street ;  be- 
sides Jelferson,  Union,  Greenwich,  Tompkins,  Gouver- 
neur,  Monroe,  and  Franklin  Markets,  situated  in  different 
parts  of  the  city — all  being  abundantly  supplied  with 
every  variety  of  meats,  fish,  fruit  and  vegetables  that  the 
country  affords. 


38 


DBSORiPTioir  or 


TRADE  AND  COMMERCE. 

The  trade  and  navigation  of  the  city  of  New- York  are 
immense.  The  average  number  of  arrivals,  American  and 
foreign,  amount  to  about  2000  annually,  independently  of 
coasters  from  different  parts  of  the  Union.  A  great  num* 
ber  of  steamboats  also  arrive  and  depart  daily,  carry* 
ing  passengers  and  merchandize.  The  wharves  are 
crowded  with  vessels,  sometimes  exceeding  one  thousand 
in  number,  from  all  countries  and  of  almost  every  size 
and  rig,  giving  constant  employment  to  a  great  number  of 
mariners. 

The  number  of  wharves  or  piers  for  the  use  of  the  ship, 
ping,  on  the  East  River,  is  60  ;  on  the  Hudson,  53.  The 
numerous  packet  ships,  and  most  of  the  foreign  vessels  lie 
in  the  East  River. 

The  amount  of  capital  invested  in  marine  insurance  is 
over  three  millions  of  dollars,  exclusive  of  companies  for 
mutual  assurance.  There  are  twenty- three  Fire  Insc.r- 
ance  Companies,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  six  millio:?^. 

The  number  of  Banks  is  twenty-nine,  having  a  capital 
of  about  twenty- five  millions. 

There  are  two  Gas  Light  Companies,  with  a  capital  of 
$1,500,000.  The  Farmers'  Loan  and  Trust  Company 
has  a  capital  of  $2,000,000,  and  the  Life  Insurance  and 
Trust  Company  a  capital  of  $1,000,000. 

The  rapid  increase  of  the  city  in  population,  wealth, 
trade  and  navigation,  during  the  last  fifteen  or  twenty 
years,  is  attributable  for  the  most  part  to  the  opening  of 
the  Erie  canal,  and  other  internal  improvements. 

BUILDINGS. 

The  number  of  dwelling  houses  in  the  city  in  1840, 
was  16,458  ;  dwellings  with  stores,  6,614  j  stores  and  of- 
ces,  3,855  ;  other  buildings,  5,189;  making  a  grand  to* 
tal  of  32,1 16  buildings  of  different  kinds. 


I    I 


% 


irVW-YORK    CITY. 


CROTON  AQUEDUCT. 

This  Aqueduct,  for  supplying  the  city  of  New- York 
with  pure  and  wholesome  water,  is  one  of  the  most  ad> 
mirable  works  of  the  kind  to  be  found  in  any  country. 
Excluding  the  Grand  Reservoir,  5  miles  long  and  having 
an  area  of  about  400  acres,  occupying  the  bed  and  valley 
of  the  Croton  river,  the  length  of  the  Aqueduct,  from  the 
Dam  which  forms  that  Reservoir,  to  the  Distributing  Re- 
servoir on  Murray  Hill  in  New- York,  is  40 ^  miles.  The 
Dam  is  placed  in  the  Croton  river,  about  6  miles  from  its 
confluence  with  the  Hudson  ;  and  it  elevates  the  water  in 
the  Reservoir  40  feet  to  the  level  of  the  Aqueduct  Head, 
or  166  feet  above  the  top  line  of  mean-tide  in  the  Hud- 
son. Passing  from  the  Dam  down  the  Croton  valley 
about  6  miles,  the  Aqueduct  turns  into  the  valley  of  the 
Hudson  and  runs  southerly  through  Westchester  county, 
32.88  miles,  to  the  verge  of  the  Harlem  River  valley. 

Throughout  this  distance  the  Aqueduct  is  a  continuous 
conduit  of  stone  and  brick  masonry.  The  width  of  the 
the  Harlem  valley,  at  the  height  of  the  conduit  level,  is 
about  1,450  feet,  or  a  little  more  than  I  mile  ;  and  the  A> 
queduct  crosses  it  in  cast-iron  pipes  of  3  feet  bore,  on  a 
level  1 14  feet  above  the  ordinary  high- water  surface  of 
the  river.  Oa  reaching  the  southern  verge  of  this  valley, 
on  the  Island  of  New- York,  the  pipes  give  place  again  to 
the  conduit  of  masonry,  which  thus  continues  for  2  miles 
and  a  fraction  over,  to  the  verge  of  the  high  ground  over- 
looking the  Manhattan  valley.  At  that  point  the  conduit 
level  is  102  feet  higher  than  the  bottom  of  the  valley, 
which,  at  the  height  of  the  level,  is  a  fraction  over  | 
mile  wide.  The  conduit  passes  this  valley  in  cast-iron 
pipes,  of  the  bore  already  stated,  following  the  valley- 
curve  ;  and  on  ascending  to  the  southern  verge  of  the 
curves  the  pipes  again  give  place  to  the  conduit  of  ma* 


30 


DKSORIPTIOIV    or 


sonry,  which,  crossing  the  Asylum  ridge  in  Blooming- 
dale,  and  the  Clendcnning  valley,  runs  a  little  more  ihan 
two  miles,  to  the  great  Receiving  Reservoir,  on  York- 
Hill,  5  miles  and  a  little  over  from  the  City  Hall, 

This  Receiving  ResEiivoiii  includes  an  area  of  35 
acres,  being  1,826  feet  long  by  836  feet  wide,  measuring 
from  the  external  angles  of  the  enclosing  embankment, 
and  it  is  divided  by  a  cross  wall  into  two  parts  of  unequal 
capacities.  From  this  Reservoir  tht  Aqueduct,  with  a 
conduit  of  cast-iron  pipes  of  the  size  before  mentioned, 
continues  a  fraction  over  2  miles,  to  the  Distributing 
Reservoir  at  Murray  Hill.  Itis  420  feet  square,  as  mea- 
sured on  the  cornice  of  the  outer  w  ill ;  it  contains  an  area 
of  a  little  more  than  4  acres,  divided  into  two  equal  parts 
by  a  partition  wall ;  its  enclosing  walls  have  an  average 
he  ght  of  444  feet  above  the  adjacent  streets,  and  it  is  3 
miles  from  the  City  Hall. 

From  this  Reservoir  the  water  is  drawn  in  large  cast- 
iron  pipes  called  the  Great  Mains,  which  lead  through 
the  central  parts  of  the  city,  and  from  which  the  distri- 
bution of  the  water  for  use,  is  made  by  p"pes  of  various 
dimen'^'ons,  diminishing  in  size  as  the  ramifications  ex- 
tend. 

The  aggregate  length  of  the  Great  Mains  is  about  four 
miles ;  and  if  they  be  included  in  the  linear  measure- 
ment, together  with  the  Croton  Reservoir  above  the  Dam, 
the  entire  distance  falls  but  little  short  of  50  miles. 

Of  the  excavation  required  for  grading  the  line  and 
constructing  the  Aqueduct,  the  larger  moiety  was  of 
rock,  and  amounted  to  somewhat  more  than  400,000  cu- 
bic yards. 

The  shape  of  the  country  for  much  of  the  way  presents 
a  succession  of  transverse  ridges  and  ravines,  to  be  cut, 
tunneled,  or  embanked,  and  swelling  the  cost  of  the  work. 


V 


I 


NEWYOKK    CITY. 


The  whole  number  or'  tunnels  is  16,  varying  in  length 
from  IGO  leet  to  1,2G3  Iti  teach,  and  making  a  total  of 


6,81  i  feet,  with  roofs 


from  2D  feet  to  75  feet 


vorying 
vertical  depth. 

In  Westchester  county  25  streams  are  crossed,  with 
beds  from  12  feet  to  70  feet  below  the  grade  line  of  the 
Aqueduct,  to  say  nothing  of  many  small  brooks,  and  all 
requiring,  for  the  safety  of  the  work,  culverts  of  mason- 
ry. The  whole  number  of  culverts  is  114,  varying  in 
span,  from  1\  feet  to  25  feet  eoch,  and  making  an  ag- 
gregate length  of  7,959  linear  feet. 

The  grandest  structure  is  the  Bridge  over  the  Harlem 
Iliver  and  valley.  The  width  of  the  river  itself  is  620 
feet,  and  that  of  the  valley  a  little  more  than  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  which  is  the  length  of  the  Bridge.  The  arches 
over  the  river  are  8  in  number,  with  a  span  of  80  feet 
each,  springing  from  stone  piers  20  feet  wide  at  the  spring- 
line,  which  is  60  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river  at 
high- water  mark ;  and  the  arches  being  semicircles,  the 
spring  is  half  the  span,  making  the  whole  height  100  feet 
from  the  river  surface  to  the  soffit,  or  under  side  of  the 
centre  of  these  arches.  On  the  north  side  of  these 
large  arches  are  6  others  and  on  the  south  side  one,  of  50 
feet  span  each,  resting  on  piers  7  feet  wide,  which,  with 
the  abutment  at  each  end,  complete  the  supports  of  the 
Bridge.  The  parapet  walls  and  the  whole  superstructure 
are  of  stone  j  the  whole  width  at  the  top  of  the  parape* 
being  21  feet,  and  the  height  at  the  same  line  being  1 .  i 
feet  above  the  water.  These  dimensions  give  the  exter- 
nal aspect  of  this  magnificent  work. 

The  Receiving  Reservoir  at  York  Hill,  is  formed 
with  vast  earth  embankments  perfectly  puddled,  protect- 
ed externally  by  massy  walls  of  stone  masonry,  and  de- 


32 


DESCRIPTION    OF 


signed  to  contain  20  feet  depth  of  water  measuring  150 
millions  of  gallons. 

The  Distributing  Reservoir,  at  Murray  Hill,  is 
formed  with  double  and  hollow  walls  of  heavy  masonry. 
Their  least  height  is  39  feet  and  their  greatest  49  feet, 
strengthened  at  the  corners  with  pilasters,  or  buttresses, 
projecting  from  the  wall- face  four  feet  and  being  40  feet 
wide,  while  at  the  points  cqui-distant  from  the  corners 
these  buttresses  are  60  feet  wide,  projecting  from  the  wall- 
face  six  feet.  In  both  cases  they  rise  several  feet  above  the 
top  of  the  walls,  which  is  guarded  all  round  with  an  iron 
railing  running  along  the  cornice.  In  the  central  pilasters 
are  doors  leading  to  the  pipe-chambers  in  the  walls  where 
the  cocks  are  regulated.  The  inside  of  these  walls  is 
strengthened  with  a  sloping  and  heavy  puddled  embank- 
ment, faced  with  rubble  masonry  and  coped  with  cut  stone. 
The  bottom  of  the  Reservoir  is  a  dense  hardpan,  covered 
with  puddle  two  feet  thick,  and  then  floored  one  foot 
thick  with  hydraulic  concrete. 

This  Reservoir  is  calculated  to  hold  30  feet  depth  of 
water,  with  its  surface  115  feet  above  mean- tide,  and 
measuring  20  millions  of  gallons. 

The  first  contracts  for  construction,  were  made  in  April 
1837,  and  the  work  commenced  in  the  next  month.  The 
whole  work  was  so  far  completed  that  the  water  was  let 
in  from  the  Croton  Dam,  June  22d  1842,  and  was  admit- 
ted into  the  Distributing  Reservoir,  on  the  4th  of  July 
following.  The  event  of  its  completion,  so  far  as  to  afford 
an  abundant  and  constant  supply  of  water,  was  celebrated 
with  great  pomp  and  parade  on  the  14th  day  of  Oct.  1842. 
The  total  cost  of  this  noble  and  useful  work,  will  amount 
to  about  $12,000,000. 

But  the  supply  of  pure  and  wholesome  water  to  the  in* 
•habitants  of  New- York,  for  all  culinary  and  household 


4 


NBW-YORK    CITY. 


83 


i 


uses,  does  not,  by  any  means,  constitute  the  whole  value  of 
this  great  work.  The  supply  of  pure  water,  in  largerabun* 
dance,  to  public  bathing- houses  and  hospitals — its  aid  in 
cleaning  streets — its  utility  as  a  permanent  and  ready  pro- 
tection against  fires,  and  its  consequent  influence  in  re- 
ducing the  expense  of  insurance  and  enhancing  the  value 
of  property — all  conducive  to  the  health,  comfort,  safety  and 
economy  of  life — are  important  blessings  resulting  from 
this  work,  and  they  are  certain  to  multiply  with  the 
growth  of  the  city.  Nor  are  these  all  its  advantages. 
Even  the  means  thus  afforded  for  the  mere  embellishment 
of  the  city  with  fountains  in  the  public  squares,  should 
not  be  overlooked  ;  for  whatever  adds  to  its  attractions  as 
a  place  of  residence,  is  an  obvious  and  substantial  benefit 
to  all  classes,  and  especially  to  the  holders  of  real  estate. 
Of  this  mode  of  embellishment  several  specimens  have 
already  been  furnished,  and  the  Fountains  in  the  Bowling 
Green,  the  Park,  Union  Place,  and  St.  John's  Park,  are 
celebrated  for  the  height  of  their  jets,  and  for  picturesque 
beauty  of  design  and  general  effect. 

FIRE  DEPARTMENT. 

The  Fire  Department  is  well  organized,  and  cost 
during  the  year  1841,  $76,788.53  ;  there  were  48  engines, 
33  hose  carriages,  48,450  feet  hose,  47  ladders,  53  hooks, 
and  7  hook  and  ladder  trucks,  belonging  to  the  Depart- 
ment. The  number  of  engine  companies  was  48,  hose 
companies  34,  hook  and  ladder  companies  7,  hydrant  com- 
panies 3,  and  the  number  of  men  in  the  Department  1,639. 

CITY  COURTS. 

The  Courts  in  the  city  of  local  jurisdiction,  are  the  fol- 
lowing :  The  Superior  Court,  composed  of  a  Chief  Jus- 
tice and  two  Justices  ;  the  Court  of  Common  Pleas,  or 
County  Court,  consisting  of  a  First  Judge,  and  two  As- 


>      i 


84 


DESCRIPTION    OF 


sociate  Judges,  together  with  the  Mayor,  Recorder  and 
Aldermen,  Judges  ex-officio ;  the  Vice-Chancellor  and 
Assistant  Vice- Chancellor's  Courts  ;  the  Marine  Court, 
(jurisdiction  limited  to  $100,  except  in  marine  cases,) 
and  six  Justices'  or  Ward  Courts,  (limited  to  $50.) 

CITY  POLICE. 

The  Police  of  the  city  depends  for  its  efficiency  on  the 
personal  character  of  the  Mayor,  its  head  j  but  the  syS' 
tem  is  'oelieved  to  be  extremely  defective.  There  were 
confined  in  the  Penitentiary  on  Blackwell's  Island,  at  the 
close  of  1841,  842  convicts — 396  males  and  44fi  females. 
Of  this  number  230  were  sentenced  by  the  criminal  courts, 
and  the  remainder  were  vagrants  committed  by  Justices 
•of  the  Police. 

The  number  of  Watchmen  employed  at  night,  is  956, 
at  an  average  expense  of  over  $200,000  per  annum. 

FERRIES. 

The  public  Ferries,  running  from  the  city  of  New- York 
to  adjacent  places,  are  as  follow  : 

South  Ferry,  from  Whitehall-st.  to  Atlantic-st.  Brooklyn. 
Fulton  Ferry,     "  Fulton-st.        "  Fulton-st. 
Catharine  Fer.  "  Catharine-st.  "  Main-st. 
Walnut  Ferry,  ''  Walnut-st.      "  Jackson-st.         " 
Peck  Slip  Fer.  "  Peck  Slip,  to  S.  7th.  st.  Williamsburgh. 
Grand-st.  Fer.  "  Grand-st.  to  Grand-st.  *' 

Houston  Fer.     "  Houston-st.  to        "  " 

Hell-Gate  Fer.  "  Eighty-Sixth-st.  to  Astoria,  Long-Isla'd. 
Staten  Is.  Fer.  "  Battery  Place  to  Staten  Island. 
Jersey  City  Fr.  ''  Cortlandt-st.     "  Jersey  City,  New-Jer. 
Barclay-st.  Fr.  "  Barclay-st.       "  Hoboken, 
Canal-st.  Fer.  "  Canal-street     "        " 
Christopher-st.  Fr.  from  Christopher  st.  to  Hoboken,  N.  J. 
Fort-Lee  and  Bull's  Fer.  from  Canal-st.  to  Fort-Lee,  " 


tt 


(I 


It 


%' 


NEW-YORK    CITY. 


35 


|r. 


a.: 


f 


STEAMBOATS  AND  PACKETS. 

Steamboats  leave  the  city  daily  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  year  for  Albany,  Troy,  Hudson,  Poughkeepsie, 
Newburgh,  Peekskill,  Haverstraw,  Sing-Sing,  Piermont, 
and  other  places  on  the  Hudson.  For  Providence  and 
New^port  in  Rhode-Island.  Stonington,  Norwich,  New- 
London,  Hartford,  New-Haven,  Bridgeport,  and  Stam- 
ford,  in  Connecticut,  by  Long  Island  Sound.  For  Eliza- 
bethport,  Newark,  Amboy,  New-Brunswick,  and  Shrews- 
bury, in  New- Jersey  j  and  for  various  landings  on  Long 
Island. 

Steamers  also  ply  between  this  city  and  London,  Liver- 
pool, and  Bristol,  England. 

Lines  of  packet  ships  sail  with  great  regularity  to  va- 
rious ports  in  Europe,  the  West  Indies,  South  America, 
and  the  United  States. 

RAILROADS. 

New-York  and  Philadelphia  Railroad  Lines. 

In  addition  to  the  Camden  and  Amhoy  Railroad,  which 
connects  with  a  line  of  Steamboats,  landing  near  the 
Battery  j  there  is  the  New- Jersey  Railroad,  commencing 
at  Jersey  City,  opposite  Cortlandt-street,  connecting  with 
a  line  of  railroads  extending  to  Philadelphia,  86  miles. 
Passengers  leave  New- York,  by  the  latter  route,  from 
the  foot  of  Liberty-street ;  being  conveyed  to  Jersey  City 
in  a  commodious  steam  ferry  boat. 

Elizabethtown  and  Somerville   Railroad. 

Passengers  by  this  Raibroadand  Steamboat  Line,  leave 
New- York  from  the  foot  of  Battery  Place,  touching  at 
New-Brighton  and  Port  Richmond,  on  Staten  Island. 

Paterson  and  Hudson  Railroad. 
Passengers  going  to  Paterson,  N.  J.,  17  miles  by  rail- 
road, leave  New- York  from  the  foot  of  Cortlandt-street. 


' 


36 


RAILROADS   AND   STAGES. 


L0NG*l8LAND    RAILROAD. 

Passengers  by  this  route  leave  New. York  from  the  foot 
of  Whitehall-street,  for  different  places  on  Long-Island. 
This  railroad  is  now  finished  from  Brooklyn  to  Smith* 
town,  Suffolk  county,  a  distance  o(  47  miles. 
Harlem  Railroad. 

Passengers  leave  the  city  from  near  the  City  Hall,  for 
the  different  places  on  the  line  of  the  Harlem  Railroad, 
which  is  now  finished  to  Williams'  Bridge,  a  distance  of 
14|  miles,  on  Bronx  river. 

New- York  and  Erie  Railroad. 

A  Steamboat  leaves  New-York  daily,  from  the  foot  of 
Duane-street,  for  Piermont,  a  distance  of  24  miles ;  con- 
necting with  cars  running  on  this  railroad  to  Goshen  and 
Middletown,  in  Orange  county,  a  further  distance  of  53 
miles. 

Stages  for  Milford,  Honesdale  and  Binghamton,  run 
from  the  cars  on  their  arrival  at  Middletown. 

STAGES. 

A  line  of  Stages  run  from  New- York,  through  New- 
Jersey  and  into  Pennsylvania ;  thence  to  Binghamton  in 
the  state  of  New- York,  connecting  with  a  line  of  travel 
north  to  Utica,  and  west  to  Owego. 

Stages  usually  leave  Cortlandt- street,  during  the  winter 
months,  for  Albany  and  the  intermediate  places  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Hudson  river  ;  while  a  line  runs  from  the 
New- York  and  Erie  Railroad,  diverging  from  Turner's 
Depot,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river. 

Stages  leave  the  Bowery  several  times  daily,  for  Har- 
lem, Manhattanville  and  different  places  in  Westchester 
county. 

Stages  also  leave  Franklin  Square  and  Brooklyn,  for 
Flushing,  Jamaica,  Fort  Hamilton,  and  other  places  on 
Long  Island. 


VICINITY    OP    NEW-YORK. 


87 


FASHIONABLE   PLACES   OF  RESORT  IN  THE 
VICINITY  OF  THE   CITY  OF  NEW-YORK. 

In  the  vicinity  of  New- York  are  numerous  places  of 
resort,  which  are  easily  reached  by  means  of  Steamboats, 
Railroads  and  Stages.  Among  the  most  fa\'orite  Steam.' 
boat  Excursions,  may  be  named  a  trip  to  any  of  the  va< 
rious  places  on  the  Hudson  river — to  Staten  Island — to 
Shrewsbury  and  Long  Branch — and  through  the  East  Ri- 
ver, to  the  various  places  on  both  sides  of  Long  Island 
Sound  ;  being  all  delightful,  especially  during  the  warm 
season. 

The  resorts  on  the  Hudson,  most  worthy  of  a  visit, 
are  fully  described  under  the  head  of  the  "  Hudson  Ri- 
ver andits  Vicinity." 

Staten  Island,  lying  about  six  miles  to  the  south  of 
the  city,  surrounded  in  part  by  the  beautiful  bay  of  New- 
York,  presents  many  attractions,  and  is  much  frequented. 
Steamboats  leave  New- York  several  times  during  the 
day,  from  the  foot  of  Whitehall-street,  for  Tompkins- 
ville  and  Stapleton,  both  facing  the  Quarantine  Ground  ; 
also,  from  the  foot  of  Battery  Place,  for  New-Brighton 
and  Port  Richmond,  on  Staten  Island  Sound. 

The  Ocean  House,  near  Sandy  Hook,  is  much  re- 
sorted to  during  the  summer  months. 

Shrewsbury,  Red  Banks  and  Tinton  Falls,  all 
situated  on  a  stream  called  Shrewsbury  River,  which  emp- 
tics  into  the  ocean  near  Sandy  Hook,  are  also  favorite 
resorts.  A  steamboat  leaves  New- York  daily,  from  near 
Fulton  Market  on  the  East  River,  for  the  above  places. 

Long  Branch,  30  mile;  pouthof  the  city  of  New- York, 
is  on  the  eastern  shore  of  New- Jersey,  facing  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  and  affords  a  grand  view  of  the  coast  for  many 
miles.  This  is  an  old  and  fashionable  resort  for  those 
who  are  fond  of  fishing  or  sea  bathing,  for  which  pur- 


38 


VICINITY    OP    NEW-YORK. 


pose  it  is  considered  equal  to  any  resort  in  the  vicinity  of 
New- York  or  Philadelphia, 

Cape  May,  at  the  mouth  of  Delaware  Bay,  the  ex- 
treme south  part  of  New-Jersey,  has  of  late  attracted 
much  attention  as  u  watering  place  ;  extensive  accommo- 
dations are  now  being  erected  for  the  convenience  of 
visiters. 

The  places  of  resort  on  Long  Island  are  numerous 
and  present  various  attractions  during  warm  weather,  to 
invalids  and  seekers  of  pleasure. 

The  city  of  Bbooklyn,  connected  with  New- York  by 
four  ferries,  on  which  are  placed  commodious  steam  ferry 
boats,  is  a  place  of  healthy  and  delightful  residence,  and 
much  resorted  to  by  pedestrians.  The  United  States 
Navy  Yard,  on  Wallabout  Bay  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 
Greenwood  Cemetery,  near  Gowanus,  two  or  three 
miles  south  of  the  city  of  New- York,  is  a  romantic  and 
well  selected  burial  place  for  the  dead. 

Flatbush,  on  the  road  to  Fort  Hamilton  and  Coney 
Island,  is  delightfully  situated,  distant  3  miles  from 
Brooklyn. 

East  New- York,  Union  Race  Course,  and  Jamai- 
ca, are  all  situated  on  the  line  of  the  Long-Island  Rail- 
road, and  are  easily  reached  by  cars  or  stages. 

The  village  of  Hempstead,  23  miles  from  Brooklyn, 
by  railroad,  is  celebrated  as  being  a  delightful  place  of 
residence,  and  a  lavorite  resort. 

All  who  are  fond  of  sea  bathing,  the  invigorating  sea 
bretze,  or  hunting  and  fishing,  may  find  abundunt  grati- 
fication at 

Fort  Hamilton,  situated  at  the  '*  Narrows,"  where 
has  recently  been  opened  a  commodious  hotel ;  at 

Bath  House,  on  Gravesend  Bay,  an  old  and  favorite 
resort :  or  at 


VICINITY    OP    NEW-YORK. 


of 


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;rali- 

rhere 
orite 


f 


Coney  Island,  facing  the  Atlantic  ocean,  where  are 
several  well  kept  public  houses. 

Stages  leave  Brooklyn  several  times  daily,  during  the 
summer  months,  for  the  above  fashionable  resorts,  pas- 
sing through  the  pleasant  villages  of  Flatbush  and  New- 
Utrecht. 

RocKAWAY  Beach,  with  its  splendid  hotel,  the  Ma- 
rine Pavilion,  and  other  public  houoes,  has  been  long 
and  deservedly  a  favorite  resort  during  warm  weather. 
The  most  desirable  mode  of  conveyance  to  Rockaway,  is 
by  railroad  cars  to  Jamaica,  and  thence  by  stage  ;  being 
distant  about  20  miles  from  the  city  of  New-York. 

Besides  these,  there  are  other  agreeable  and  still  more 
retired  retreats  on  the  -^outh  side  of  Long  Island,  farther 
east.  In  Great  South  Bay,  extending  from  Hempstead 
to  Southampton,  a  distance  of  50  miles,  ore  to  be  found 
inexhaustible  quantities  of  scale  and  shell  ilsh  of  diffe- 
rent kinds,  and  countless  numbers  of  wild  fowl. 

Mont  auk  Point,  the  eastern  extremity  of  Long  Is- 
land, 140  miles  from  the  city  of  New- York — with  its 
rugged  and  beetling  cliffs — its  fo£).ming  breakers,  and  the 
mighty  ocean  in  front,  is  a  spot  surrounded  by  great 
grandeur  and  beauty. 

Flushing,  9  miles  east  of  New- York,  is  a  delightful 
and  retired  place  of  residence  and  resort.  Here  is  situa- 
ted the  Linneean  Botanic  Garden,  which  possesses  many 
attractions  and  is  much  visited. 

Glen-Cove,  Oyster  Bay  and  Cold  Springs,  on  the 
north  side  of  Long  Island,  are  also  much  frequented  in 
summer. 

New-Rochelle,  and  other  places  on  the  Westches- 
ter shore  of  Long  Island  Sound,  are  also  \'ell  worthy  of 
a  visit,  and  are  much  resorted  to  during  the  summer 
months  by  fashionable  visiters. 


40 


VICINITY    OF    IfBW-YOBK. 


Daily  lines  of  steamboats,  in  addition  to  stages,  run 
from  the  city  of  New- York,  to  most  of  the  places  on  both 
sides  of  Long  Island  Sound,  affording  cheap  and  speedy 
modes  of  conveyance. 

Various  places  on  the  Island  of  New- York,  and  in 
Westchester  county,  near  the  line  of  the  Harlem  Rail- 
road, are  also  much  visited.  Stages  leave  the  present 
termination  of  the  railroad  at  Williams'  Bridge,  for  West- 
Farms,  Eastchester,  New-Rochelle.  Mamaroneck,  Rye 
and  Port-Chester  on  the  Sound,  and  White  Plains,  and 
other  places  in  the  interior  of  Westchester  county. 

In  the  neighboring  region  of  New-Jersey,  also,  are 
several  places  of  much  interest,  not  only  to  the  lover  of 
the  picturesque,  but  to  the  social  economist ;  and  they 
are  easily  reached  by  the  railroads  which  diverge  from 
Jersey  City  opposite  New- York.  Among  these,  besides 
Hoboken,  Weehawken,  the  Elysian  Fields,  and  other 
points  near  the  shore  of  the  Hudson,  are  the  Passaic 
Falls,  near  the  celebrated  manufacturing  village  of 
Paterson,  distant  17  miles  from  New- York.  The  whole 
descent  of  the  Passaic,  at  this  spot,  is  from  60  to  70 
feet.  In  the  first  portion  of  its  descent  the  river  rushes 
over  a  steep  slope  of  deeply  rifted  rock,  and  then  makes 
a  clear  pitch  of  some  30  or  40  feet  into  a  narrow,  wedge- 
shaped  and  transverse  chasm,  with  a  high  wall  of  perpen- 
dicular rock  fronting  the  falls  and  right  athwart  the  course 
of  the  stream,  compelling  the  boiling  waters  to  pass  out 
of  the  chasm  nearly  at  right  angles  with  their  previous 
direction,  into  the  broad  and  black  pool  immediately  be- 
low, which  is  walled  in,  for  many  rods  on  each  side  of 
the  gorge,  by  perpendicular  cliffs  of  naked  rock  80  or  90 
feet  high,  greatly  augmenting  the  grandeur  of  the  scene. 
As  the  river  escapes  from  this  magnificent  basin,  it 
makes  another  sharp  angle,  and  thus  resuming  nearly 


VICINITY    OF    NEW-YOAK. 


41 


I 


I 


the  direction  of  the  current  above  the  falls,  it  flows  away 
with  a  gentle  descent  through  a  fertile  and  cultivated  val- 
ley of  meadow,  pasture,  and  arable  lands.  The  con- 
trasts presented  by  the  scene  are  various  and  striking, 
greatly  enhancing  its  beauty,  especially  when  the  volume 
of  the  river  is  swelled  by  heavy  rains.  Of  late  years, 
however,  some  of  the  finest  features  of  the  place  are  im- 
paired in  their  expression  by  the  diversion  of  much  of  the 
water,  taken  out  above  the  falls  aad  led  away  through 
the  village  of  Paterson,  for  hydraulic  uses.  Still,  the 
loss  thus  suffered  by  the  picturesque,  is  amply  compen- 
sated by  gain  to  the  useful,  and  by  the  associated  images 
of  individual  and  social  benefit,  of  improving  arts,  and 
general  prosperity. 

The  Morris  Canal  passes  a  little  to  the  south  of  Pas 
saic  Falls,  on  its  route  from  Jersey  City  across  the  state 
to  the  Delaware  river,   which  it  reaches  at  Easton,  dis- 
tant from  the  Hudson  100  miles  by  this  line. 

Newark,  Elizabethtown,  New  Brunswick,  and 
other  places  on  the  line  of  the  New  Jersey  Railroad,  arc 
easily  reached  by  means  of  steamboats  and  railroad  cars. 

MoRRisTowN,  22  miles  from  Newark,  is  connected 
with  the  latter  place  by  railroad,  passing  through  the  vil. 
lage  of  Orange,  where  there  is  a  Mineral  Spring  of  con- 
siderable celebrity. 

Schooley's  Mountain,  which  is  usually  approached 
from  New- York  by  means  of  railroad  and  stages  passing 
through  Elizabethtown  and  Somerville,  is  a  place  of  much 
fashionable  resort,  during  the  summer  months  owing  to 
its  high,  airy,  and  healthy  situation.  The  extensive 
prospect  afforded  from  its  top,  on  which  is  located  an 
excellent  public  house,  is  perhaps  unrivalled. 

Belmont  Hall,  situated  on  the  highest  part  of  the  moun- 
tain, 2,000  feet  above  tide  water,  is  surrounded  by  a  park 

D 


42 


KASTGKN    LINES    OF    TRAVKL 


of  many  acres  richly  adorneJ  with  forest,  fruit,  and  orna- 
mental trees.  The  proprietor  has  left  nothing  undone  to 
give  general  satisfaction  to  his  numerous  visiters.  A 
short  distance  from  the  hotel  are  Mineral  Springs,  where 
much  has  recently  been  expended  for  the  comfort  of  visi- 
ters wishing  to  enjoy  this  pure  chalybeate  at  the  fountain. 
The  distance  from  the  city  of  New  York  to  Elizabeth- 
port,  by  steamboat,  is  12  miles  ;  from  Elizabethport  to 
Somerville,  by  railroad,  26  miles ;  from  Somcrville  to 
Schooley's  Mountain,  by  stage,  20  miles.  Passengers 
from  Philadelphia,  usually  leave  the  railroad  cars  at 
New  Brunswick  and  proceed  to  the  mountain  by  stage. 

EASTERN  LINES  OF  TRAVEL  THROUGH 
LONG  ISLAND  SOUND. 

There  are  at  present  three  great  lines  of  travel  be- 
tween the  cities  of  New- York  and  Boston,  by  steamboats 
and  railroad  cars. 

1.  A  line  of  Steamboats  leave  New-York  for  New  Ha- 
ven, daily,  Sundays  excepted,  from  Peck  slip,  East  River, 
at  6  o'clock  A.  M.  in  summer,  and  at  7  A,  M.  in  winter. 
Distance,  80  miles.  The  New  Haven  and  Hartford 
Railroad,  extends  from  Hew  Haven  to  Hartford,  a  further 
distance  of  38  miles. 

A  line  of  Steamboats  also  run  direct  from  New- York  to 
Hartford,  via  Saybrook,  daily,  Sundays  excepted,  from 
the  1st  April  to  1st  December.  In  winter,  passengers 
for  Hartford  are  carried  via  New  Haven. 

From  Hartford,  a  line  of  travel  extends  up  the  valley 
of  the  Connecticut  river  ;  at  Springfield,  a  distance  of  25 
miles,  it  intersects  the  Western  Railroad  of  Massachu- 
setts, one  of  the  great  linko  of  railroads  extending  from 
Boston  to  Buffalo,  a  total  distance  of  525  miles. 
Distance  from  Springfield  to  Boston,  by  railroad,  98  miles. 

Albany,  "       102  miles. 


# 


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EASTERN    LINES    OP    TRAVEL. 


48 


ley 

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2.  A  line  of  Steamboats  leave  New- York  for  New 
London  and  Norwich,  daily,  Sundays  excepted,  starting 
from  Pier  No,  1,  North  River,  at  5  o'clock  P.  M.  in  the 
summer  and  4  P.  M.  in  winter.  Distance  to  Norwich  by 
water,  133  miles. 

The  Norwich  and  \,'orcester  Railroad  now  extends 
irom  Allen's  Point,  7  miles  below  Norwich,  to  Worces- 
ter, Mass.,  a  whole  distance  of  66  miles,  coiinecting 
with  the  great  east  and  west  line  already  mentioned. 
Distance  from  Worcester  to  Boston,  by  railroad,  44  miles. 
The  total  distance  between  New-York  and  Boston,  by  this 
route,  is  235  miles  ;  usual  time,  15  hours. 

3.  A  line  of  Steamboats  of  the  first  class,  leave  New- 
York  daily,  Sundays  excepted,  in  the  afternoon,  from  the 
foot  of  Battery  Fiace,  for  Stonington,  Newport  and  Pro- 
vidence, connecting  with  rail  oads  running  to  Boston. 

At  Stonington,  135  miles  from  New- York,  by  water, 
commences  the  Providence  and  Stonington  Railroad, 
extending  to  Providence,  a  distance  of  47  miles.  The 
Bosto7i  and  Providence  Railroad,  extends  a  further  dis- 
tance of  42  iiiiles  ;  making  the  total  distance  between 
New- York  and  Boston,  by  this  route,  224  miles  j  usual 
time,  14^  hours. 

HOUSATONIC  ROUTE  BETWEEN  NEW-YORK 

AND  ALBANY. 

In  addition  to  the  above  lines  of  travel  through  Long 
Island  Sound,  and  the  states  of  Connecticut,  Rhode  Is- 
land, and  Massachusetts — a  Steamboat  leaves  New- York, 
daily,  Sundays  excepted,  for  Bridgeport,  Conn.  ;  distance 
60  miles.  During  the  close  of  navigation  on  the  Hudson 
River,  this  is  the  most  expeditious  and  desirable  route 
between  the  commercial  and  political  capitals  of  the  state 
of  New- York. 


44 


IIOUIATOMC    ROUTE. 


At  Bridgeport  commences  the  Houtatonic  Railroad, 
which,  in  connection  with  the  Bcrkthire  Railroad,  and 
the  Albany  and  West  Stockbridge  Railroad,  unites  the 
cities  of  New- York  and  Albany,  by  one  connected  line  of 
steamboats  and  railroads.  Total  distance,  198  miles  ; 
usual  time,   15  hours. 

Distances    between    New- York  and  Albany,    via 
Bridgeport. 

To  Bridgeport,  by  Steamboat, 60  miles. 

Stepney,  fr'/iai/rood, 10    70  " 

Bottsford,. 5    75  " 

Newtown, 5    80  " 

Brookfield, 10    90  " 

Housatonic  River, 6    96  " 

NewMilford, 1    97  " 

Gaylord's  Bridge, 6  103  " 

Kent, 6  109  " 

Cornwall, 12  121  '' 

Canaan  Falls  Village, 6  127  " 

Connecticut  State  Line,  7  134  " 

Sheffield,  Mass 3  140  " 

Great  Barrington, 6  146  " 

West  Stockbridge 12  158  " 

New- York  State  Line, 2  160  " 

Tunnel,  (600  feet  long,) 2  162  " 

Clatham  Four  Corners, 13  175  " 

K.nderhook, 7  182  " 

Schodack, 8  190  " 

Albany, 8  198  " 


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HUDSON  RIVER  AND  ITS  VICINITY. 


During  the  season  of  navigation  on  the  Hudson,  which 
usually  extends  from  about  the  20th  of  March  to  the  fore- 
part of  December,  numerous  steamboats  leave  the  city  of 
New^-York  every  morning  and  evening,  for  various  pla- 
ces on  both  shores  of  the  river.  The  boats  of  the  largest 
class,  nowhere  excelled  for  comfort  and  speed,  run  through 
to  Albany  and  Troy,  about  150  miles,  in  ten  to  twelve 
hours  running  time,  and  touch  at  the  principal  villages 
on  the  way,  to  land  and  receive  passengers.  Usual  fare 
through,  $2.00,  including  berths  in  the  night  boats. 

To  the  traveller  for  pleasure  and  health,  the  day  boats 
are  the  most  desirable,  particularly  in  hot  weather,  when 
a  night's  confinement  in  a  crowded  cabin  is  very  oppres- 
sive ;  and  they  furnish  a  fine  opportunity  to  enjoy  the 
varied  and  beautiful  scenery  of  this  noble  river. 

The  panoramic  view  on  leaving  the  city  is  extensive 
and  grand.  Seaward  it  embraces  parts  of  Long  Island 
and  Staten  Island  with  the  "  Narrows," — the  spacious 
Bay  of  New- York  studded  with  Governor's,  Bedlow's, 
and  Ellis's  Islands — the  Jersey  shore,  on  the  west,  witli 
its  settlements  and  cultivated  fields — and  on  the  east  the 
city  itself  with  its  long  ranges  of  wharves  and  shipping, 
its  spires,  and  its  masses  of  architecture — and  as  the  boat 
rounds  out  upon  the  bosom  of  the  majestic  river  and 
springs  forward  on  her  upward  course,  the  view,  crowded 
with  striking  contrasts  and  full  of  life  and  action,  is  one 
of  rare  beauty  and  interest. 

Jersey  City  opposite  the  lower  part  of  New- York, 
and  HoBOKEN  a  mile  north,  are  seen  to  great  advantage 


i 


^1 


I 


46 


HUDSON     RIVBR 


as  the  steamboat  leaves  the  wharf.  At  the  former  place 
Icommences  the  New  Jersey,  and  Paterson  Railroads; 
and  the  latter  place  is  a  delightful  and  favorite  resort  of 
the  citizens  of  New- York,  during  the  warm  summer  sea- 
son, when  the  commodious  steam  ferry  boats  are  crowd- 
ed every  afternoon  with  parties  of  both  sexes,  seeking 
refreshment  from  the  heated  and  thronged  streets  of  the 
city,  in  that  charming  retreat. 

Weehawken,  on  the  Jersey  shore  north  of  Hoboken 
and  3  miles  from  New- York,  a  high  wooded  cliff,  with  its 
bold  rocky  bluffs  partly  veiled  with  trees  and  partly  bare, 
and  a  handsome  villa  on  its  summit  is  one  of  the  finest 
points  in  the  scene  as  you  move  up  the  river.  At  the 
foot  of  this  cliff  and  on  the  margin  of  the  river  a  small 
obelisk  of  white  marble  for  many  years  marked  the  spot 
where  Alexander  Hamilton  fell  in  his  fatal  duel  with 
Aaron  Burr,  on  the  12th  July,  1804.  The  monument, 
however,  has  long  since  been  removed. 

Bull's  Ferry,  2  to  3  miles  further  north,  on  the 
same  shore,  is  a  place  of  considerable  resort,  being  con- 
nected with  the  city  by  a  steam  ferry. 

Bloomingdale,  on  York  Island,  5  miles  from  the  City 
Hall,  is  a  scattered  settlement,  in  which  the  most  promi- 
nent object  is  the  Orphan  Asylum,  which,  as  seen  from 
the  river,  with  its  green  lawn  extending  to  the  water's 
edge  and  surrounded  by  a  fine  grove,  presents  a  pleasing 
aspect. 

About  3  miles  further  up  the  island,  or  8  miles  from  the 
City  Hall,  is  the  Lunatic  Asylum,  a  stately  pile  stand- 
ing on  elevated  ground. 

The  next  conspicuous  object  on  the  island,  and  visible 
from  the  Hudson,  is  Manhattanville,  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  east  of  which,  toward  the  East  River  and  near 
Hell-Gate,  is  the  village  of  Harlem. 


I 


Ible 
2ar 


•( 


i 


AND    ITS    VICINITY. 


47 


Fort  Washington,  2  miles  north  of  Manhattanyille, 
is  elevated  238  feet  above  the  river,  being  the  highest 
point  on  the  island  of  New- York.  This  old  fort  was 
captured  by  the  British  and  Hessians,  in  the  disastrous 
campaign  of  1776,  when  some  two  or  three  thousand  Amer- 
icans were  either  killed  or  taken  captive,  and  thrown  into 
the  prison-ships  at  the  Wallabout  Bay,  where  the  United 
States  now  have  an  extensive  Navy- Yard,  near  Brooklyn. 

Fort  Lee,  on  the  Jersey  shore,  10  miles  from  New- 
York,  is  a  place  of  considerable  interest,  and  between  it 
and  that  city  a  steam  ferry  boat  plies  daily.  The  site  of 
the  old  fort  is  on  the  brow  of  the  Palisades,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  river  and  elevated  about  300  feet  above  it. 
It  was  surrcr*:  .  :  i  to  the  British  in  1776,  immediately 
after  the  capf  a:  w.'  Fort  Washington. 

The  Palisades,  the  most  striking  and  peculiar  feature 
of  the  scenery  on  either  side  of  the  Hudson,  commence  a 
little  north  of  Weehawken,  and  on  the  same  shore.  This 
descriptive  designation  has  been  given  to  a  majestic  range 
of  columnar  rock,  varying  in  height  from  50  feet  to  3  and 
400  feet,  and  walling  in  the  Hudson  as  far  as  Piermont, 
a  distance  of  20  miles.  Just  above  Fort  Lee  they  rise, 
almost  perpendicularly,  from  the  water's  edge ;  and  as 
the  channel  of  the  river,  for  the  whole  20  miles,  runs 
very  near  the  west  side  and  along  the  base  of  these  ma- 
jestic cliffs,  they  are  seen  to  great  advantage  from  the 
decks  of  the  steamboats. 

Spuyten  Duyvel  Creek  flow,  into  the  Hudson  13 
miles  north  of  the  City  Hall  of  New- York,  and  connects 
with  the  Harlem  river  on  the  east,  thus  separating  the 
Island  of  New- York  from  Westchester  county.  Kings- 
bridge,  on  the  great  post-road  from  New- York  to  Albany, 
crosses  this  creek  abput  a  mile  from  its  mouth,  near  which 
on  the  north  bank,  is  the  site  of  old  Fort  Independence. 


I 


48 


HUDSON     RIVBR 


Here  commences  a  succession  of  beautifully  situated 
country  residences,  looking  out  upon  the  river  and  across 
it  to  the  Palisades  'he  shore  itself  being  marked  by  a 
succession  of  narro  .  valleys  and  ridges  running  back  with 
a  gradual  ascent  to  the  north  and  south  range  of  highland, 
which  separates  the  waters  flowing  into  the  Hudson,  from 
those  which  pass  otT  to  the  East  River  and  Long  Island 
Sound.  As  you  advance  up  through  Westchester,  this 
north  and  south  ridge  becomes  more  elevated  and  rocky. 
It  is,  in  fact,  the  commencement  of  that  extensive  and 
lofty  range  which  soon  enlarges  itself  into  the  Fishkill 
Mountains,  further  north  swells  into  the  still  loftier  Tagh- 
kanic  group,  and  finally  attains  its  highest  grandeur  in 
the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont. 

YoNKERS,  17  miles  north  of  New- York,  is  a  thriving 
village  in  Westchester  county,  at  the  mouth  of  Saw-mill 
river.  It  contains  about  80  dwelling  houses  and  some  500 
or  600  inhabitants,  and  is  the  summer  resort  of  many  citi- 
zens of  New- York,  being  easily  reached  by  the  steam- 
boats which  ply  daily  between  that  city,  Sing-Sing  and 
Peekskill.  It  is  surrounded  by  very  pleasant  scenery  and 
commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Hudson  and  the  Palisades. 

Hastings,  3  miles  north  of  Yonkers,  is  a  convenient 
landing-place,  at  which  the  smaller  steamboats  touch  to 
receive  and  discharge  passengers. 

Dobb's  Ferry,  22  miles  north  of  New- York,  is  a  small 
settlement  with  a  steamboat  wharf.  This  was  an  impor- 
tant  point  in  the  military  operations  of  the  Revolutionary 
war.  A  ferry  communicates  with  the  opposite  shore  at 
the  foot  of  the  Palisades,  a  little  north  of  the  boundary 
line  between  the  States  of  New- York  and  New-Jersey  ; 
and  from  this  point  northward  both  sides  of  the  Hudson 
are  in  New- York. 


'\ 


AND    ITS    VICINITY. 


4» 


} 


PiERMONT,  formerly  known  as  Tappan  Landing,  or 
the  "Sloat,"  is  on  the  west  shore  of  the  Hudson,  24  miles 
from  the  city  of  New- York.  It  has  become  a  place  of 
importance  as  the  terminus  of  the  New- York  and  Erie 
Railroad.  The  line  of  this  great  work,  from  Piermont 
to  Dunkirk  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  is  446  miles  long. 
In  1841,  the  section  extending  from  Piermont,  which  is 
in  thv:  ''ounty  of  Rockland,  to  Goshen  in  Orange  county, 
46  miles,  was  finished  and  put  in  operation.  Since  that 
time,  the  completion  of  7  miles  more,  extends  the  road  to 
MicUletown.  At  Piermont  a  substantial  pier,  more  than 
a  mile  long,  has  been  constructed,  extending  from  the 
shore  to  the  channel  of  the  Hudson.  A  steamboat  plies 
daily  between  this  place  and  New- York,  and  connects 
with  the  cars  running  on  the  railroad.  At  this  point, 
also,  the  Palisades  terminate  onthe  north  by  an  abrupt  hill. 
This  hill,  and  the  extensive  pier  already  mentioned,  be- 
ing the  two  most  distinguishing  features  of  the  place,  they 
have  been  appropriately  combined  to  form  the  name  of 
Piermont. 

Distances  on   the  New- York   and   Erie  Railroad 
FROM  Piermont  to  Middletown. 

To  Blauveltville, 4  mHes. 

Clarkstown, 5    9  *' 

Jifousey's, 4  13  " 

TSufFern's,   5  18  " 

Ramapo, , 2  20  " 

Monroe  Works, 8  28  " 

Turner's,  (17  miles  from  Newburgh,).  5  33  *' 

Monroe  village, 3  36  " 

Chester, 5  41  " 

Goshen, 5  46  " 

Newhampton, 4  50  '• 

Middletown, 3  53  " 

Two  or  three  miles  west  from  the  river  is  the  old  vil- 
lage of  Tappan,  memorable  as  having  been  for  a  time. 


90 


HUDSON     RIVER 


|i 


r 


f 


Ml 


if!     i 
It 


the  Head-Quarters  of  Washington  and  the  American  army 
during  the  Revolution,  and  the  place  where  Major  Andre 
was  executed  on  the  2d  of  October,  1780. 

Tappan  Bay — or,  r  ,  was  usually  called  in  earlier 
times,  Tappan  Sea — L  .mg  an  expansion  of  the  river, 
commences  at  Piermont  and  extends  northward  to  Tel- 
ler's Point,  a  distance  of  10  miles,  with  an  average  width 
of  about  3  miles.  On  the  eastern  shore  of  this  Bay,  in 
the  midst  of  a  beautiful  landscape,  is  the  favorite  country 
residence  of  Washington  Irving,  Nowhere  on  either  shore 
of  the  Hudson  is  the  scenery  more  distinguished  for  its 
picturesque  beauty,  having  the  Palisades  in  full  view  at 
the  southwest ;  at  the  west  and  north  a  fine  range  of  hills 
stretching  away  to  the  grand  mountain  masses  of  the 
"  Highlands,"  with  the  broad  river  between. 

Irving,  is  the  name  given  to  a  small  settlement  about 
one  mile  south  of  the  village  of 

Tarrytown,  which  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  river,  overlooking  Tappan  Bay,  27  miles 
north  of  the  city  of  New-York.  It  contains  about  100 
dw^elling  houses  and  1,000  inhabitants.  Steamboats  run- 
ning to  New- York,  touch  daily  at  this  place.  Immediate- 
ly north  is  Beekmantown,  where  is  the  Irving  Institute, 
a  school  of  much  celebrity,  and  a  venerable  Dutch  Re- 
formed Church,  erected  about  the  middle  of  the  17th  cen- 
tury .  Tarrytown  is  famed  as  being  the  place  where  Major 
Andre  was  captured  while  watering  his  horse,  on  his  re- 
turn from  West  Point,  and  from  a  personal  interview 
with  the  traitor,  Gen.  Arnold.  Immediately  north  of  this 
village,  also,  is  the  famous  Sleepy  Hollow,  where  Wash- 
ington Irving  laid  the  scene  of  his  entertaining  legend  of 
that  name. 

Nyack,  on  the  western  side  of  the  bay  or  river,  is  a 
pleasant  and  thriving  place,  between  which  and  New< 


AND   ITS    VICINITY. 


61 


I 

1 


*' 


York,  a  steamboat  plies  daily.    Here  Tappan  Bay  spreads 
to  its  greatestwidthj^  presenting  a  noble  expanse  of  water. 

Rockland  Lake,  2  or  3  miles  northwest  of  Nyack, 
is  a  picturesque  sheet  of  the  purest  water,  from  which 
large  quantities  of  ice  are  annually  sent  to  the  New- York 
market. 

Sing-Sing  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Hudson  river.  It  has  four  landings,  from  which 
steamboats  and  vessels  ply  daily  to  and  from  the  city  of 
New-York,  a  distance  of  33  miles.  The  main  part  of 
the  village  is  situated  on  high  and  uneven  ground,  rising 
180  feet  above  tide  water,  and  overlooking  Tappan  and 
Haverstraw  Bays,  the  Hudson  and  Croton  rivers,  and 
the  surrounding  country,  including  a  distant  view  of  the 
Palisades  and  the  Highlands.  Sing- Sing  was  incorporated 
in  1813,  and  now  contains  about  2,500  inhabitants.  This 
village  derives  its  name  from  the  Indian  words  "  Ossin- 
Sing,"  meaning  in  their  language,  the  place  of  stone.  It 
is  now  celebrated  for  its  marble  quarries,  which  are  work- 
ed to  a  great  extent  by  the  state  prison  convicts,  who  have 
here  erected  2  large  prisons,  a  keeper's  house  and  several 
ranges  of  work  shops,  from  materials  found  on  the  state 
farm ;  where  is  also  located  a  silver  mine,  which  was 
worked  to  some  extent  previous  to  the  Revolution,  and  a 
copper  mine  which  has  been  more  recently  worked.  The 
marble  found  in  this  vicinity,  is  of  a  medium  quality  and 
almost  inexhaustible  j  large  quantities  are  annually  quar- 
ried and  sent  to  the  city  of  New- York  and  other  places. 

The  Mount  Pleasant  State  Prison,  situated  about 
half  a  mile  south  of  the  village  of  Sing-Sing,  contained 
in  1340,  827  male  and  female  convicts,  of  whom  60  were 
females.  The  prison  grounds  consist  of  130  acres  cf  land, 
lying  between  the  villages  of  Sing-Sing  and  Sparta  ;  being 
bounded  on  the  east  by  the  Highland  turnpike,  and  on  the 


52 


HUDSON     RIVER 


11    ! 


I     : 


west  by  the  Hudson  river,  which  here  affords  a  depth  of 
twelve  feet  of  water  at  the  landing.  The  main  prison 
building  is  four  hundred  and  eighty-four  feet  in  length, 
north  and  south,  and  forty-four  feet  in  width,  fronting 
w^esterly  on  the  Hudson,  being  5  stories  in  height  and  con- 
taining 1,000  cells  ;  in  i  ont  and  rear  are  located  work 
shops  of  different  kinds,  >  hich,  together  with  the  keeper's 
house,  are  all  built  of  rough  dress  marble.  Attached  to 
the  prison  building  on  the  south,  is  a  chapel,  hospital, 
kitchen,  storehouses,  &c.  A  new  prison  for  female  con- 
victs stands  on  elevated  ground,  and  is  built  of  marble  in 
the  Ionic  order. 

Teller's  Point,  about  a  mile  north  of  Sing-Sing, 
separates  Tappan  from  Haverstraw  Bay.  It  projects 
southerly  into  the  river  more  than  a  mile,  immediately 
above  the  confluence  of  the  Croton  river,  with  the  Hud- 
son.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  rises  Verdreitje's 
Hook,  a  bold  headland  668  feet  high,  forming  a  beautiful 
feature  in  the  landscape. 

Haverstraw  Bay,  is  another  expansion  of  the  Hud- 
son  river,  2  to  3  miles  wide  and  6  miles  long,  terminating 
on  the  north  at  Verplank's  and  Stony  Points. 

Haverstraw  or  Warren,  lies  on  the  west  side  of  the 
bay  or  river,  35  miles  from  New- York,  to  which  city  a 
steamboat  runs  daily. 

Grassy  Point,  2  miles  above,  on  the  same  side  of  the 
river,  is  a  convenient  steamboat  landing. 

Verplank's  Point,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  40 
miles  north  of  the  city  of  New- York  is  an  excellent  land- 
ing place,  and  memorable  from  its  connection,  in  the  Revo- 
lutionary war,  with  Stony  Point  on  the  opposite  side.  On 
the  latter  point  is  now  a  light  house,  erected  on  the  site 
of  the  old  fortification,  which  completely  commanded  the 
channel  of  the  river.    These  points,  where  the  river  con- 


AWD    ITS    VICINITV. 


58 


;pth  of 
prison 
length, 
ironting 
nd  con- 
d  work 
keeper's 
ched  to 
ospital, 
ale  con- 
arble  in 

ig-Sing, 
projects 
ediately 
he  Hud- 
tdreitje's 
leautiful 

le  Hud- 
ainating 

of  the 
I  city  a 

e  of  the 

iver,  40 
nt  land- 
eRevo- 
ide.  On 
the  site 
^ded  the 
ret  con- 


tracts to  about  half  a  mile  in  width,  were  the  first  im- 
portant positions  north  of  the  city  of  New- York  at  which 
the  American  forces  attempted  to  defend  the  passage  of 
the  Hudson  against  the  British,  in  the  struggle  for  inde- 
pendence. During  the  winter  months,  when  the  river  is 
closed  with  ice  above,  steamboats  can  often  reach  Ver- 
plank's  Point  from  New- York,  and  save  the  traveller  the 
fatigue  of  passing  over  a  difficult  part  of  the  stage  road 
between  the  cities  of  New- York  and  Albany. 

Caldwell's  Landing,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river, 
44  miles  from  New- York  and  101  miles  from  Albany,  is 
the  first  place  at  which  steam  passage  boats  of  the  large 
class  touch  on  their  upward  trip,  to  land  and  receive  pas- 
sengers. This  landing  is  situated  at  the  south  entrance 
of  the  "  Highlands,"  and  is  connected  by  a  steam  ferry 
with 

Peekskill  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  a  large 
and  thriving  village,  from  which  two  or  three  steamboats 
run  directly  to  the  city  of  New- York,  carrying  large 
quantities  of  produce,  manufactured  articles,  and  pas- 
sengers. It  was  incorporated  in  1827,  and  now  contains 
2,000  inhabitants,  8  churches,  6  public  houses^  30  stores, 
and  about  250  dwellings. 

On  Oak  Rill,  where  is  now  situated  the  Peekskill 
Academy,  a  flourishing  chartered  institution,  is  a  venerable 
oak  tree  on  which  was  hung  during  the  revolutionary  war, 
two  noted  spies,  Strang  and  Palmer.  Peekskill  was  then 
the  head-quarters  of  the  American  army  under  Gen.  Put- 
nam, who  here  dated  his  laconic  reply  to  Sir  Henry  Clin- 
ton, commander  of  the  British  forces  in  the  city  of  New- 
York,  who  sent  up  a  flag  of  truce,  demanding  the  release 
of  Edmund  Palmer,  a  lieutenant  of  a  tory  regiment,  who 
had  been  detected  in  the  American  camp.  The  following 
was  the  reply  sent  back  by  Putnam  : 


54 


HUDSON     RIVER 


"Head-Quarters,  7th  Jug.  1777. 
''Edmund  Palmer,  an  officer  in  the  enemy's  service, 
was  taken  as  a  spy,  lurking  within  tlie  American  lines  ; 
he  has  been  trietl  as  a  spy,  condemned  as  a  spy,  and  shaii 
be  pxecuted  as  a  spy,  and  the  flag  is  ordered  to  depart 
immediately. 

"  ISRAEL  PUTNAM. 

"P.  S.     He  has  been  accordingly  executed." 

Stage  Lines  east   from  Pkkkskill. 

A  stage  runs  from  Peekskill  to  Ridgefield,  Conn,  via 
Somers  and  North  Salem,  every  Tuesday,  Thursday  and 
Saturday  morning  •  leaving  Peekskill  at  8  o'clock  A.  M. 
The  same  stage  leaves  Ridgefield  every  Monday,  Wed- 
nesday, and  Friday  morning. 

A  stage  runs  from  Peekskill  to  Carmel  village,  via 
Red  Mills  and  Mahopack,  every  Tuesday,  Thursday  and 
Saturday  ;  leaving  Peekskill  at  2  P.  M.,  and  Carmel  the 
same  days  at  8  A.  M. 

During  summer,  a  stage  leaves  Peekskill  every  day  for 
Mahopack  Lake,  and  in  the  hottest  of  the  season,  when 
the  lake  is  most  visited,  twice  a  day  ;  leaving  Peekskill 
at  12  M.  and  at  7  P.  M. 

Mahopack  Lake,  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  in  the 
town  of  Carmel,  Putnam  county  ;  and  is  one  of  the  chief 
sources  of  the  Croton  river.  It  is  about  one  mile  in 
diameter  and  embosoms  two  or  three  small  islands.  The 
waters  abound  with  various  kinds  of  fish  of  a  fine  flavor. 
It  is  a  place  of  considerable  resort,  with  good  accommo- 
dations for  visiters. 

At  Fort  Independence,  opposite  Caldwell's  Landing, 
on  the  northeast,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Peekskill,  a  pub- 
lic house  has  recently  been  erected,  which  is  intended  for 
a  summer  retreat.  The  situation  is  delightful,  facing  down 
the  river  with  an    unobstructed  view  for   many   miles, 


1 


ITS    AND    VICINITY. 


M 


in  the 

lie  chief 

Inile   in 

.     The 

flavor. 

lornmo- 

mding, 
I  a  pub- 
led  for 
down 
miles, 


} 


# 


i. 


I 


while  immediately  in  tV  rear  rise  the  "  Highlands"  in 
majestic  grandeur.  It  is  contemplated  to  make  this  a 
regular  steamboat  landing,  and  also  to  construct  a  bridge 
across  the  mouth  of  the  creek  or  bay,  which  separates  it 
from  the  villoge  of  Peekskill. 

On  leaving  Caldwell's  landing,  the  river  takes  a  sudden 
turn  to  the  west  for  about  a  mile  ;  this  reach  having  the 
local  designation  of  the  ^'  Horse  Race,"  and  then  re- 
sumes its  northern  course,  passing  between  the  bold, 
wooded,  and  overshadowing  hills  known  as  the  "High- 
lands," or  "  Mattea wan  Mountains."  This  latter  name, 
meaning  ''the  country  of  good  fur,"  was  given  by  the 
the  Aborigines,  and  is  a  fine,  distinctive  and  appropriate 
name  for  the  whole  group. 

The  "  Highlands,"  the  grandest,  and  next  to  the 
Palisades,  the  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  scenery  of 
the  Hudson,  are  about  16  miles  in  width,  and  extend  in 
a  southwest  and  northeast  direction  for  some  20  or  30 
miles,  covering  a  part  of  the  counties  of  Rockland  and 
Orange,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  and  Putnam  and 
Dutchess  on  the  east.  Several  of  their  summits  reach  am 
elevation  of  1,000  to  1,685  feet.  This  maybe  considered 
classic  ground,  as  many  of  the  points  or  eminences  in 
view  from  the  river  are  celebrated  in  history  for  being  the 
scene  of  stirring  events  during  the  struggle  for  American 
Independence,  1776  to  1783. 

The  sites  of  old  Fort  Clinton  and  Montgomery ,  of  revo- 
lutionary memory,  are  on  the  w"st  side  of  the  river,  op- 
posite the  lower  Anthonifs  Nose,  6  miles  below  West 
Point.  These  forts,  deemed  almost  impregnable,  were 
erected  at  this  point  for  the  defence  of  the  river,  which 
was  also  obstructed  by  chevaux-de-frise,  boom  and  chains. 
On  the  6th  of  Oct.  1777,  they  were  attacked  by  a  supe- 
rior  British  force  under  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  and  captured 


56 


HUDSON     IIIVER 


after  a  sharp  resistance  ;  the  garrison  of  600  men  being 
overpowered  by  a  disciplined  army  3,000  strong.  The 
works  were  resolutely  defended  until  dark,  when  the  ene. 
my  effected  an  entrance  at  several  places,  there  not  be- 
ing a  sulticient  number  of  soldiers  in  the  fort  to  man  the 
lines. 

West  Point,  is  romantically  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Hudson  river,  52  miles  from  New- York  and  93 
miles  from  Albany.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  United  States 
military  academy,  established  by  an  act  of  Congress,  in 
March,  1802 ;  and  the  land  ceded  to  the  United  States 
government  by  the  state  of  New- York,  1826.  Here  are 
now  erected  two  stone  barracks,  one  of  three  and  the 
other  four  stories  in  height,  occupied  by  250  cadets,  which 
is  the  number  authorized  by  law  ;  an  academic  hall,  a 
large  three  story  stone  building,  275  feet  in  length,  by  75 
feet  in  width,  used  for  military  exercises  in  winter,  and 
as  a  depository  of  the  chemical  apparatus,  models  of  for- 
tification, artillery,  architecture  and  machines  and  as  re- 
citation and  drawing  rooms :  a  new  and  beautiful  two 
story  stone  building,  to  be  used  for  the  library  and  philo- 
sophical apparatus,  constructed  in  the  Elizabethan  style 
of  architecture,  and  is  150  feet  in  length  by  60  feet  in 
width  ;  the  north  front  has  three  towers  suited  for  the  as- 
tronomical apparatus;  the  centre  tower  is  surmounted  by 
a  dome  of  28  feet  10  inches  in  diameter,  the  whole  of 
which  revolves  on  its  vertical  axis,  adapting  it  to  the  use 
of  a  large  equatorial  telescope  ;  a  chapel,  a  hospital,  a 
mess  hall,  two  cavalry  stables,  several  workshops  and 
store-rooms,  and  seventeen  separate  dwellings  occupied 
by  the  officers  of  the  institution.  In  addition  to  the  above, 
here  are  located  a  magazine,  a  laboratory,  soldiers'  bar- 
racks, a  store,  and  about  25  dwelling  houses,  occupied  by 
families  connected  with  the  military  school ;  in  aU  con- 


^ 


AND    IT8  VICINITY. 


67 


and 
of  for- 
as  re- 
il  two 
philo- 
style 
eet  in 
he  as- 
|ted  by 
ole  of 
le  use 
|ital,  a 
s  and 
:upied 
bove, 
'  bar- 
|ied  by 
con- 


tainins;  a  populdtion  of  ubout  900  souls.  Here  also  is  a 
convenient  stonmbont  landiiig,  find  a  wel]  kept  hotel,  cal- 
culiitcl  to  accoiiiinodtite  ubout  100  vi»titers. 

No  pliiee  in  the  L'nion  probably,  exceeds  West  Point  in 
bounty  of  location  and  the  stiriin!»  incidents  connected 
with  its  early  history,  being  "  hallowed  by  the  footsteps 
of  Washington  and  Kosciusko,"  during  the  revolutionary 
struggle — the  interest  in  which,  is  continued  to  the  pre- 
sent time  by  its  heing  the  residence  and  school  of  the  fu- 
ture defenders  of  the  Union.  In  1777,  immediately  after 
the  capture  of  Forts  Clinton  and  Montgomery,  by  the 
British  army,  West  Point  was  first  occupied  by  the  Ameri- 
can army,  and  fortified  ut  the  instance  of  Gov.  George 
Clinton,  of  lie\  olutionary  memory.  At  the  present  time  are 
to  be  seen  the  remains  of  Forts  Putnam  and  Arnold, 
,.tfter  the  treason  of  the  latter,  called  Fort  Clinton,) 
which  is  situated  on  the  extreme  eastern  point  of  this 
military  position,  IGO  feet  above  tide  water,  while  Fort 
Puluam  is  situated  on  Mount  Independence,  1,000  yards 
southwest,  elevated  ubout  500  feet  above  the  river ; 
there  are  also  numerous  other  redoubts  and  batteries, 
crowning  the  various  eminences  in  the  vicinity,  built  un- 
der the  direction  of  the  celebrated  Kosciusko  as  engineer. 
In  August,  1780,  Gen.  Arnold  was  assigned  to  the  com- 
mand of  this  important  military  station,  extending  froni 
Fishkill  to  Verplank's  Point.  On  the  25th  of  September, 
he  precipitately  made  his  escape  from  his  head-quarters, 
the  Robinson  House,  situated  two  miles  below  West  P(;int, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  his  treason  hav?ng  been 
discovered  by  the  fortunate  capture  of  Major  Andre. 
Fron\  this  period,  to  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  war 
in  1783,  West  Point  was  garrisoned  by  a  strong  division 
of  the  American  army  ;  after  which,  the  garrison  was 
reduced,  and  this  location  made  a  depot  for  the  revolu- 

£ 


HUDSON    RIVER 


Uonary  armament  and  other  military  stores.  In  1794,  at 
the  recommendution  of  Gen.  Washington,  a  military 
school  was  commenced  in  a  building  which  was  burnt 
down  two  years  thereafter,  and  the  school  suspended  un- 
til 1802. 

There  are  now  connected  with  the  West  Point  Academy, 
thirty-four  officers  and  professors,  a  company  of  artillery 
and  a  detachment  of  dragoons,  besides  the  cadets,  who 
generally  remain  here  for  a  period  of  four  years,  in 
which  time  they  are  qualified  to  become  subaltern  officers 
of  the  several  corps  of  the  army. 

Visiters  on  landing  at  West  Point,  are  required  to  en- 
ter their  names  on  a  slate,  prcsenleJ  by  a  soldier  on  duty 
for  that  purpose  ;  it  is  immediately  afterwards  taken  to 
the  commander's  quarters,  who  is  thereby  informed  of  all 
arrivals.  The  dej^artures  are  also  regulated  in  the  same 
manner.  No  stranger  should  leave  this  place  without 
visiting  the  public  buildings  j  Kosciusko's  Monument,  and 
a  wild  and  romantic  retreat  near  the  water's  edge,  called 
"  Kosciusko's  Garden,"  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Putnam, 
which  commands  a  view  of  West  Point,  the  Hudson 
river,  and  the  surrounding  mountain  scenery.  The  Ce- 
metery, about  half  a  mile  north  of  the  hotel,  is  also  well 
worthy  of  a  visit.  On  the  south,  towards  Buttermilk 
Falls,  about  a  mile  distant,  there  is  a  pleasant  road  run- 
ning near  the  river,  and  most  of  the  way  through  a  beau- 
tiful grove  of  trees.  In  this  vicinity,  and  most  agreeably 
located,  is  an  academy  for  young  men,  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  Lieut.  Kinsley,  formerly  an  instructor  in  the 
West  Point  Military  Academy. 

If  the  visiter  tarries  through  the  day  at  this  attractive 
place,  any  time  during  the  summer  months,  when  the  ho- 
tel is   usually  thronged   with  fashionable  people  from 


OeOltumi 


AND   1T8  VICINITY. 


69 


[•active 

llhe  ho* 

from 


every  section  of  the  Union,  he  will  have  an  opportunity 
to  view  West  Point  in  all  its  loveliness. 

Cold  Spring  a  mile  or  more  above  West  Point,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is  a  thriving  manufacture 
ing  village.  Here  are  situated  the  extensive  iron  works 
commonly  known  as  the  "  West  Point  Foundry,"  and 
supposed  to  be  on  as  broad  a  scale  as  any  in  the  Union, 
and  a  machine  shop,  giving  constant  employment  to  about 
300  workmen.  The  largestkind  of  machinery  for  steam* 
boat  and  other  purposes,  and  warlike  implements,  are 
here  constructed.  The  ore  on  which  the  works  depend, 
is  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  j  and  there  is  also  a 
quarry  of  granite  of  a  very  superior  quality,  easy  of  ac- 
cess and  inexhaustible. 

Beacon  Hill  and  Breakneck,  both  on  the  east  side 
of  the  river,  are  situated  immediately  above  Cold  Spring. 
The  former,  sometimes  called  the  '*  Grand  Sachem,"  is 
the  highest  peak  of  the  Highlands,  being  elevated  1,685 
feet  above  the  river.  The  latter  presents  the  rocky  pro- 
jection called  the  "  Upper  Anthony's  Nose." 

Crow's  Nest  and  Butter  Hill,  are  situated  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river.  They  rise  abruptly  from  the  wa- 
ter's edge,  the  latter,  which  is  the  more  northerly  peak, 
lifts  its  summit  1,520  feet  above  the  Hudson;  and  the 
other  is  nearly  as  high. 

Pollopel's  Island,  is  a  mass  of  rock  lying  in  the 
Hudson  river,  near  its  east  shore,  at  the  northern  en- 
trance into  the  Highlands,  6  miles  above  West  Point. 
Here  the  river  begins  to  widen  and  expand  to  the  width 
of  more  than  a  mile  for  some  5  or  6  miles,  for  which  dis- 
tance it  is  sometimes  called  Ncwbtirgh  Bay. 

Cornwall,  Canterbury  and  New-Windsor,  are 
small  villages  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  im- 
mediately above  the  Highlands.    The  last  named  village 


: 


60 


HUDSON     RIVBR 


beins:  distinguished  as   the   birth    place   of    De  Witt 
Clinton. 

Nkwhurgii,  61  miles  north  of  New-York  and  81  south 
of  Albany,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  risins?  ground,  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  river.  It  was  incorporated  in  ISOO,  and 
now  contains  about  6,000  inhabitants,  1,000  dwelling 
houses,  a  court-house  and  jail,  this  being  a  half-shire  of 
Orange  county  j  a  theological  seminary  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Associate  Reformed  Presbyterian  denomina- 
tion ;  an  incorporated  academy;  a  high  school,  two  fe- 
male seminaries  and  a  number  of  select  schools,  all  in  a 
flourishing  condition  ;  two  large  public  libaries  j  eleven 
churches  of  diderent  denominations  ;  three  banking  houses, 
fourteen  hotels  and  taverns  ;  loO  stores  of  diifercnt  kinds  j 
nine  store-houses  ;  five  freighting  establishments  ;  four 
steamboats  and  two  freight  barges,  running  to  and  from 
the  city  of  New- York,  besides  a  number  of  sloops  trad- 
ing to  different  places  on  the  Hudson  river,  and  schooners 
and  other  craft  running  to  southern  and  eastern  ports,  al- 
together transporting  an  immense  amount  of  lumber,  coal, 
plaster,  and  agricultural  and  manufactured  products  ;  two 
good  steamboats  also,  are  attached  to  the  ferrj  between 
this  place  and  Fishkill  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
which  is  here  about  one  mile  in  width.  IMie  location  of 
Newburgh.  in  addition  to  its  romantic  beauty  and  healthi- 
ness, is  peculiarly  favorable  as  a  place  of  business,  being 
suiTounded  by  a  rich  grnzing  and  agricultural  region, 
celebrated  for  butter  and  live  stock.  The  Delaware  and 
Hudson  Railroad,  the  riMitc  of  which  is  located  and 
partly  graded,  commences  at  the  village  of  Newburgh,, 
and  runs  through  the  county  of  Orange  into  the  state  of 
New- Jersey.  It  is  intended  to  tap  the  coal  beds  of  Penn- 
sylvania, intersecting  the  New-York  and  Erie  Railroad 
at  or  near  Goshen. 


■T 


I 


} 


AND    ITS  VICINITY. 


61 


Witt 

4  south 
,  on  the 
00,  and 
welling 
sliire  or 
ic  (lirec- 
nouiina- 
two  fe- 
all  in  a 
;  eleven 
J  houses, 
It  kinds  J 
its  ;  four 
ind  from 
ops  trad- 
ichooners 
orts,  al- 
er,  coal, 
jets  ;  two 
between 
|he  river, 
ation  of 
healthi- 
;s,  being 
region, 
\varc  and 
ted   and 
iwburgh,. 
state  of 
lof  Penn- 
ailroad 


Newburjsjh  was  for  a  period  the  head-quarters  of  Gen. 
Washington,  anil  at  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  war, 
the  army  was  here  disbanded,  June  23,  17S3.  The  cele- 
ebrated  Newburgh  Letters,  adiiressc'd  to  the  oificers  and 
men  of  tlie  army,  were  here  dated,  supposed  to  have  been 
written  by  the  late  Gen.  John  Armstrong. 

It  is  proposed  to  erect  a  suitable  column  to  the  memory 
of  Washington,  in  front  of  tlie  old  stone  house,  in  the 
south  part  of  this  village,  where  his  family  resided  ;  it 
is  to  be  from  80  to  100  feet  high,  constructed  of  white 
marble,  or  granite,  at  an  estimated  cost  of  $50,000.  It 
will  be  in  plain  sight  from  the  water,  commanding  one  of 
the  finest  prospects  on  the  Hudson. 

Stages  leave  Newburgh  for  Hiaghamton,  122  miles  dis- 
tant, where  tliey  connect  with   lines  running   north  and 
south,  and   with   a   line  continuing   west,    through  the 
southern  tier  of  counties,  to  Barcelona,  on  Lake  Erie. 
Stage  Route  from   Newbukgh  to  Barcelona. 

Milcs.\  Milet. 

Montgomery, 13  Factory ville 8  162 

Bloornins,'burgh, 12     25|Atliens,  Pa.' 3  165 


Wurtsboro, 5  30 

MONTICELLO, 10  40 

Bethel,   10  50 

Delaware  River, ...   10  60 

Mount  Pleasant,  Pa.  20  80 

New-Mi  Iford, 22  102 

Great  Bend, 4  106 

BlNGHAMfON, 16  122 

Union, 6  128 

Nanticoke, 9  137 

OwEGO, 7  144 

Smithboro, 10  154 


Er.MiRA, 20  185 

Corning, 16  201 

Painted  Post, ......     3  204 

Bath 18  222 

Howard, 12  234 

Hornellsville, 10  244 

Angelica, 20  264 

Franklinville, 25  289 

Ellicottville,.  ...   10  299 

Seelysburgh, 15  314 

Mayville, 35  349 

Barcelona, 8  357 


1 


FisHKiLL  Landing,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  di- 
rectly opposite  Newburgh,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
a  steam  ferry,  is  a  thriving  village  containing  about  900 
inhabitants,  and  surrounded  by  delightful  country  resi- 
dences. 


02 


HVDSOIf    RIVER. 


Matteawan,  an  extensive  and  celebrated  mnnnfac- 
taring  village,  is  situaleJ  on  the  Fishkill,  a  mile  and  a 
kair  east  of  Fishkill  Landing. 

Glenham,  3  miles  iroin  tl  e  Hnding,  is  also  a  cele- 
brated manufacturing  village,  eel  orated  for  its  superior 
woollen  cloths. 

The  village  of  Fishkill,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a 
plain,  5  miles  east  of  Fishkill  Landing,  and  65  miles 
north  of  the  city  of  New- York,  on  the  great  post  road  to 
Albany.  This  road,  from  Peekskill  to  Fishkill,  a  dis- 
tance of  19  miles,  traverses  the  Highlands,  and  is  re- 
markable for  its  formidable  hills  and  the  w^ild  scenery  of 
this  mountain  route.  As  you  approach  Fishkill  from  the 
south,  the  character  of  the  scenery  suddenly  changes  to 
that  of  a  fertile  and  cultivated  farming  district. 

During  the  Revolutionary  war,  this  village  was  for  a 
period  the  head-quarters  of  tiie  American  army  ;  the 
church  is  still  standing  here,,  in  which  Enoch  Crosby,  the 
spy  of  Revolutionary  memory,  was  confined  for  a  time  : 
his  escape  being  admirably  described  in  Cooper's  ro- 
mance of  the  **  Spy,"  under  the  assumed  name  of  Haf 
vey  Birch. 

New-Hamburgh,  6  miles  north  of  Newburgh,  is  a 
steamboat  landing  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  where 
Wappinger's  creek,  an  important  mill  stream,  empties 
into  the  Hudson. 

Hampton  is  another  landing  nearly  oppcsite,  being 
connected  with  New-Hamburgh  by  a  ferry.  One  or  two 
miles  north  is  the  village  of  Marlborough. 

Barnegat,  a  few  miles  above  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  is  celebrated  for  the  manufacture  of  large  quanti- 
ties of  lime. 

Milton,  9  miles  above  Newburgh,  and  4  miles  below 
Poughkeepsie,  is  a  convenient  steamboat  landing  j  the 
village  stands  about  half  a  mile  back  from  the  river. 


ii 


1 


AND    ITS  VICINITY. 


63 


nufac- 
and  a 

a  cele- 
aperior 

tl  on  a 
»  miles 
road  to 
,  a  dis' 
1  is  re- 
ncry  of 
rom  the 
nges  to 

as  for  a 
ny  ;  the 
sby,  the 
a  time  : 
)er*s  ro- 
of Har- 

jh,    is  a 
where 
empties 

;,  being 
or  two 

of  the 
quanli- 

;!S  below 
ing  ;  the 
^er. 


PouGHKEEPSiE,  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Hudson,  about  equi-distant  between  the  cities  of 
New- York  and  Albany,  being  74  miles  from  the  lormer, 
and  71  from  the  latter,  by  water.    It  was  incorporated 
in  ISOl,  anJ  now  contains  about  7,500  inhabitants,  mostly 
engaged  in  mercantile  anJ  manufacturing  pursuits  ;  1,000 
dwelling  houses,  many  of  them  tasty  edifices  ;  a  court- 
house, and  jail  and  county  poor-house  ;  a  splendid  colle- 
giate  building  ;    the  Dutchess   Academy ;    two  female 
seminaries,  besides  several  select  schools  ;  a  lyceum  and 
reading  room  ;  two  public  markets  j  one   Presbyterian, 
one   Congregational,  two  Episcopal,    one   Baptist,  two 
Methodist,  one  Dutch  Keformed,  one  Universalist,  one 
Roman   Catholic,  and   one   African   Church,    and    two 
Friends'  meeting   houses  ;  three  banking   houses,  a  sav- 
ing's  institution,  and  an  incorporated  company  called  the 
"  Dutchess  AVhaling  Company,"  who  own  one  or  two 
ships  engaged  in  the  whale  trade.     Poughkecpsie  contains 
several  well  kept  hotels  and  taverns  ;  25  dry  good  stores, 
50  groceries,  3    bookstores,  besides  a  large  number  of 
other  differeat  kinds  of  stores  and  shops  ;  also  two  brewe- 
ries, one  of  which  is  very  extensive,  perhaps  the  largest 
in  the  state,  being  capable  of  making  30,000  barrels  of 
beer  annually,  and  an  extensive  pin  manufacture.     Here 
are  owned  three  steamboats,  three   freight  barges,  and 
eight  sloops,  engaged  in  transporting  produce  and   mer- 
chandise to  and  from  the  New-York  market,  and  other 
places  on  the  river.     No   place  on  the  Hudson  exceeds 
this  village   for  beauty  of  location  ;  it  is  surrounded  by 
one  of  the  richest  agricultural  districts  in  the  Union,  and 
may  justly  be  ranked  as  the  queen  of  villages  in  the  Em« 
pire  State. 

The  Poughkeepsie  Collegiate  School,  situated  on  Col- 
lege Hill,  about  half  a  mile  northeast  of  the  compact 


'-;''m^^:^ 


I   li 


64 


HUDSON     RIVER 


part  of  the  village,  is  unrivalled  in  its  location,  command- 
ing nn  extensive  prospect  of  the  river  and  surrounding 
country,  which  cannot  fail  to  ext^'ite  the  admiration  of 
every  lover  of  picturesque  scenery;  in  addition  to  ise 
collegiate  building,  which  is  a  splen  lid  edifice,  here  hns 
recently  been  erected  an  extensive  gymnasium.  This  is  u 
well  established  and  flourishing  institution,  conducted  on 
philosophical  principles. 

Poughkeepsie,  is  a  corruption  of  the  Indian  word 
^pohecpsiiig,  signifying  safe  harbor.  It  was  early  set- 
tled, an  I  in  ViRH,  tho  state  convention  met  here  to  ratify 
the  federal  Coustitu''on  ol  Uie  Unite!  States  ;  previous  to 
that  date  tiie  state  legi>)at.ure  frequently  convened  in  this 
village,  which  has  long  leen  considered  a  favorite  place 
of  residence. 

The  Landing  opposite  Poughkeepsie,  is  in  the  town  of 
New-Paltz,  by  which  name  it  is  called.  A  ferry  here 
crosses  the  Hudson  ;  a  short  distance  from  the  river  is  a 
scattered  settlement.  Three  or  four  miles  above  Pough- 
keepsie, is  a  turn  in  the  river  called  Crum-Elboto. 

livDF,  Pakk,  80  miles  from  New-York  and  65  from 
.Albany,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Hudson.  The  principal  settlement  is  about  half  a  mile 
from  tlie  landing.  It  contains  3  churches,  2  public  houses, 
several  stores  and  shops,  and  .'5v')  or  60  dwelling  houses. 
No  section  of  the  country  between  New- York  and  Alba- 
ny, excels  this  part  of  Dutchess  county  for  the  beauty  of 
its  country  residences  ;  among  which,  the  elegant  man- 
sion and  grounds  of  the  hite  Dr.  David  Hosack,  were 
conspicuous.  This  fine  seat  is  now  occupied  by  Mr. 
Langdon.  It  appears  to  great  advantage  from  the  river, 
standing  on  elevated  ground,  a  short  distance  north  of 
the  steamboat  landing.  At  Staatsburgh,  5  miles  north  of 
the  village  of  Hyde  Park,  is  situated  the  couatry  resi- 


> 


I 


\ 


AWn  ITS  VICINITY. 


65 


dence  of  the  late  Gov.  Morgan  Lewis.  Esopus  Meadows, 
as  they  lue  called,  G  or  7  miles  above  Hyde  Piuk,  are  ex- 
?»'nsive  marshes,  covered  with  water  during  high  tide; 
Ji.iy  lie  opposite  the  town  of  Esopus  on  the  west  side  of 
the  river.  Pdham,  is  a  small  landing  on  the  same  side, 
a  liUle  south  of  the  mea  lows. 

iCoNPOiJT,  89  miles  north  of  the  city  of  New- York,  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  large  stream  of  the  same  name, 
where  there  is  a  lighthouse  built  by  the  United  States 
government.  This  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  con- 
taining an  active  population  of  about  1,500  inhabitants  ; 
many  of  whom  are  engaged  in  navigation,  and  others  are 
furnished  employment  by  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Ca- 
nal, which  terminates  at  Eddyville,  2  miles  above  Ron- 
dout.  The  canal  is  108  miles  in  length,  extending  in 
connection  with  a  railroad  of  16  miles,  to  the  coal 
mines  of  Pennsylvania.  From  the  mouth  of  Rondout 
creek  a  number  of  steamboats,  freight  barges,  and  sloops 
are  regularly  employed  in  carrying  an  immense  quantity 
of  Lackawaxen  coal,  lumber,  lime,  and  produce  of  differ- 
ent kinds.  Stages  run  from  this  place  to  the  village  of 
Kingston,  and  to  the  Landing  opposite  Rhinebeck,  where 
the  line  boats  land  and  receive  passengers  several  times 
daily. 

Kingston  Landing,  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Hudson  river,  90  miles  north  of  the  city  of  New- York  ; 
this  landing  was  formerly  called  Columbus  Point.  A 
steam  ferry  boat  here  plies  across  the  river. 

The  village  of  Kingston  is  handsomely  situated  on  a 
plain,  through  which  flows  the  Esopus  creek,  3  miles 
west  of  the  landing  on  the  river.  It  was  incorporated  in 
1805,  and  now  contains  about  2,300  inhabitants,  300  dwel- 
ling houses,  1  Reformed  Dutch,  1  Episcopal,  1  Baptist  and 
1  Methodist  church  ;  a  court  house  and  jail,  2  banking 


66 


HUDSON    RIVBU 


tl 


houses,  an  incorporator!  academy,  in  a  flourishing  condi- 
tion, an  I  a  female  seminary  ;  also  several  well  kept  pub- 
lic houses.  Stages  leave  this  place  three  times  a  week 
for  Delhi,  Delaware  county  ;  a  tri- weekly  line  also  loaves 
for  Ellenville,  and  accommodation  stages  are  in  constant 
attendance,  and  run  to  the  several  steamboats  that  land 
and  receive  passengers  at  Rondout  and  Kingston  Land- 
ing. Kingston,  anciently  called  Esopus,  was  early  set* 
tied  by  the  Dutch,  many  of  whose  descendants  now  re. 
side  in  this  vicinity. 

In  April,  1777,  the  first  convention  of  the  Representa- 
tives of  the  state  of  New- York  met  in  the  village  of 
Kingston,  and  formed  the  old  Constitution  of  the  state,  and 
on  the  16th  day  of  October  following,  it  was  taken  and 
burnt  by  the  British  army,  under  the  command  of  Gen. 
Vaughan,  while  marching  to  the  relief  of  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne,  who  was  obliged  to  surrender  to  the  American 
army  on  the  following  day  at  Schuylervillc.  Imme- 
mediately  after  destroying  the  village,  the  Bi'itish  troops 
precipitately  retreated  to  their  vessels  lying  in  the  Hud- 
son river,  and  returned  to  the  city  of  JSew-York.  Some 
of  the  ruins  of  the  stone  buildings  were  standing  as  late 
as  1836,  when  the  last  of  the  walls  were  taken  down,  and 
the  Kingston  banking  house  erected  on  the  same  spot. 

Rhinebeck  Landing,  90  miles  from  New- York  and 
53  from  Albany,  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  river. 
In  this  vicinity  are  located  a  number  of  beautiful  coun- 
try residences  overlooking  the  Hudson. 

The  village  of  Rhinebeck  is  handsomely  situated  ok  a 
plain,  2  miles  east  of  the  landing.  It  is  incorporated, 
and  now  contains  about  1,000  inhabitants.  This  vicinity 
was  early  settled  by  Dutch  families,  many  of  whose  de- 
scendants still  retain  the  habits  and   language  of  their 


AND  ITS  VICINITY. 


67 


Oh  a 

rated, 

Icinity 

)e  de- 

their 


forefathers,   and  arc   a  frugal  and  prosperous  class  of 
citizens. 

Bauiiytown,  or  Jlcdhook  Lower  Landing,  also  on  the 
cast  side  of  tlie  Hudson,  is  97  miles  from  New- York,  and 
is  surronmU.'l  by  severfil  deli'^htful  country  residences, 
The  Cutskill  Mountains,  i.i  the  west,  at  a  distance  of 
some  12  or  15  miles,  mny  now  be  seen  from  the  river 
to  great  advantage  ;  and  the  Catskill  Mountain  House, 
elevated  nearly  3,000  feet  above  the  Hudson,  is  distinctly 
visible  in  clear  weather.  It  stands  near  the  precipitous 
front  of  a  rocky  plateau,  of  a  few  acres  in  extent,  called 
Pine  Orchard,  from  the  scattered  pines  which  formerly 
grew  out  from  the  fissures  of  the  rock.  It  commands  a 
vast  and  noble  prospect,  and  is  a  most  refreshing  retreat 
from  the  heats  of  summer. 

TivoLT,  or  Upper  Rcdhook  Landing,  100  miles  from 
New-York  and  45  miles  from  Albany,  is  a  regular  steam- 
boat landing  for  both  day  and  night  boats.  In  this 
vicinity  arc  also  a  great  number  of  beautiful  country  re- 
sidences. The  villages  of  Uppkr  and  Lowkr  Rp:»hook, 
are  situated  3  or  4  miles  from  the  river,  on  the  stage  road. 
In  the  Hudson,  near  Tivoli,  are  annually  taken  during 
the  months  of  May  and  June,  large  quantities  of  shad  and 
herring.  A  steam  ferry-boat  here  plies  across  the  river, 
landing  on  the  west  side  near  the  iron  works  at  Sau- 
gerties. 

Saugeuties,  which  is  a  large  manufacturing  village 
by  the  chartered  name  of  Ulster,  situated  on  the  Esopus 
creek,  near  its  entrance  into  the  Hudson,  where  is  a  water- 
fall affording  an  immense  hydraulic  power,  much  of 
which  is  advantageously  used  in  driving  diflercnt  kinds 
of  machinery.  The  village  contains  about  2,000  inhabi- 
tants, 300  dwelling  houses,  5  churches,  and  3  or  4  public 
houses.     A  steamboat  and   several  sloops  rur  from  the 


i^ 


08 


HUDSON    RlVEn 


mouth  of  the  creek,  although  the  usual  steamboat  lund- 
ing  for  thu  passage  boats  is  at 

BiusToi.,  or  Malvkn,  2  miles  above  Retlhouk,  nud  l{ 
miles  from  Saugertie'".  A  stnge  runs  to  and  from  lh« 
landing  to  the  village,  on  the  nrriv  aJ  and  tleparturc  of  the 
steam  passage  boats. 

East  and  West  Camp,  a  few  miles  above  Bristol, 
are  old  Dutch  settlements  on  both  sides  of  the  ri\er. 

The  village  of  Catskill,  J 11  jniles  from  New-York 
and  34  miles  from  Albany,  is  situated  on  both  sides  of 
Catskill  creek,  near  its  junction  Avitiithe  Hudson;  the  piin. 
cipal  street  being  about  half  a  mile  back  from  the  steam- 
boat binding.  It  was  incorporated  in  JSOO.and  now  con- 
tains about  2,>^()()  inhabitants,  400  dwelling  houses,  a 
court-house  nnd  jiiil,  2  banl.iug  houses,  5  churches,  and 
several  public  houses.  Here  is  owaed  a  steamboat  and 
4  barges,  besides  several  sloops  employed  in  transport- 
ing produce  and  merchandise  to  and  I'rom  the  city  of 
New-York  and  diderent  places  on  the  river.  A  ferry 
boat  plies  across  the  river  from  the  landing  at  this  place, 
to  Oak  Hill,  Columbia  county.  The  Catskill  and  Carta- 
joharie  Railroad  commences  at  this  village,  and  is  finish- 
ed a  distance  of  26  miles.  A  daily  line  of  stages  leave 
Catskill  for  Delhi,  Delaware  county,  and  two  triweekly 
lines  for  Ithaca,  at  the  head  of  Cayuga  lak*;,  and  Spra- 
ker's  Basin  in  Montgomery  county;  the  latter  uniting 
with  the  Erie  Canal  and  western  railroads.  A  stage  runs 
from  Catskill  to  Hudson,  \  ia  Athens,  twice  daily,  and  a 
stage  runs  semi-weekly  to  Pratlsville,  via  Hunter  and 
Lexington.  Stages  also  run  daily  during  the  warm 
weather  from  the  steamboat  landing  to  the 

Catskill  Mountain  House,  at  the  Fine  Orchard, 
distant  about  12  miles  from  Catskill.     The  following  i« 


r  f 


f 


AND  ITS  VICINITY. 


69 


lace, 
anO' 
nish- 
eave 
ekly 
Spra- 
iting 
runs 
md  a 
and 
arm 


a  glowing  description  of  this  we'iI  Lnc^.vn,  and  charming 
•ummcr  retreat : 

**  Pine  Orch a  up,  forming  a  port  of  the  Catslcill  moun< 
tain  range,  is  situated  about  12  miles  from  Catskill, 
Greene  county.  It  is  elevated  3,000  feet  above  the  tide 
waters  of  the  Hudson,  whicli  noble  stream,  and  the  sur- 
rounding country,  it  overlooks  for  a  great  distance,  af- 
fording a  varied  and  extensive  view  of  the  greatest  in- 
terest. On  the  stminiit  is  erected  a  large  and  commodious 
public  house,  called  the  Mountain  House,  for  the  accomo- 
dation of  visiters,  who  resort  here  in  great  numbers 
during  the  summer  months.  In  this  vicinity  are  other 
raounttiin  peaks  of  still  greater  elevation,  and  waterfalls 
of  the  most  wild  and  romantic  character,  altogether  form- 
ing unrivalled  attractions,  which  are  well  worthy  of  a 
visit.  From  this  lofty  eminence  all  inequalities  of  sur- 
face are  overlooked.  A  seemingly  endless  succession  of 
woods  and  waters,  farms  and  villages,  towns  and  cities, 
are  spread  out  as  upon  a  boundless  map.  Far  in  the  east 
rise  the  Taghkanic  mountains,  and  the  highlands  of  Con- 
necticut and  Massachusetts.  To  the  left,  and  at  a  still 
greater  distance,  the  Green  mountains  of  Vermont  stretch 
away  to  the  north,  and  their  blue  summits  and  the  blue 
sky  mingle  together.  The  beautiful  Hudson,  studded 
with  islands,  appears  narrowed  in  the  distance,  with 
steamboats  almost  constantly  in  sight  j  while  vessels  of 
every  description  spreading  their  white  canvass  to  the 
breeze,  are  moving  rapidly  over  its  surface,  or  idly  loit- 
ering in  the  calm.  These  may  be  traced  to  the  distance 
of  nearly  seventy  miles  with  the  naked  eye  ;  and  again 
at  times  all  below  is  enveloped  in  dark  clouds  and  rolling 
mist,  which,  driven  about  by  the  wind,  is  constantly  as- 
suming new,  wild  and  fantastic  forms.  From  Pine  Orch- 
ard, a  ride  or  walk  of  a  mile  or  two  brings  you  to  the 


90 


IIUDHON     JllVIiill 


I'' 


ii 


ili 


Kautcrskill  fnlls.  Here  tl>«  outlet  of  two  small  lakes 
leaps  down  a  pcTpnitliculiir  full  of  130  feet,  tlirn  gliJes 
away  throui,'li  u  channel  worn  in  the  rock,  to  u  second 
fall  of  <S()  fott.  Below  this  it  i.s  lost  in  the  dark  ruvine 
through  whicli  it  finds  its  way  to  the  valley  of  the 
Catskill." 

The  City  of  Hudson,  situate  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  IIG  miles  from  New- York,  an  J  29  miles  from  Al. 
bany,  is  a  place  of  much  trade  and  importance.  It  lies 
near  the  heul  of  ship  na\igation,  and  was  formerly  cele. 
brated  for  being  largely  engaged  in  the  West  India  trade, 
and  more  recently  in  llie  whale  fishery.  Hudson  was 
first  settled  in  17S3,  by  Thomas  Jenkins  and  others,  most 
of  whom  were  Qimkcrs,  from  Massachusetts  and  Rhode 
Island.  The  city  was  chartered  in  17S.>,  and  is  divided 
into  2  wards;  in  IS  10,  it  contained  5,(570  inhabitants, 
about  800  dwelling  houses,  a  court-house  and  jail,  with  a 
beautiful  white  marble  front,  surmounted  by  n  dome;  8 
churches  of  difierent  denominations,  including  2  Friends' 
meeting  houses;  2  banks,  2  public  markets,  and  5  hotels. 
The  Hudson  Academy  ot  this  place,  is  an  old  chartered 
institution,  and  the  Hudson  Female  Seminary  is  a  new 
and  flourishing  boarding  school  for  young  ladies  ;  besides 
which  there  are  several  schools,  both  male  and  female. 
The  Franklin  Library  Association  is  a  young  and  popular 
institution,  to  which  is  attatche  1  a  large  library  and  phi- 
losophical apparatus.  The  Hudson  Lunatic  Aaylum  is 
situated  on  State-street,  on  the  north  side  of  the  city,  facing 
the  court  house  on  the  south.  This  useful  and  flourishing 
institution,  under  the  control  of  the  proprietors,  Drs.  S. 
and  G.  H.  White,  contains  at  present  about  40  patients. 
Since  the  opening  of  this  institution,  up  to  Jan.  1S41,  a  pe- 
riod of  eleven  years,  503  patients  have  been  admitted,  most 
of  whom  have  been  permanently  cured,  or  greatly  bene- 


AND    ITS  VICINITY. 


71 


ung 
S. 
nts. 
pe. 
aost 


I 


flted.  The  city  is  supplirrl  Ly  pure  and  ivholesome 
T\"alcr  by  a  clinrlcrctl  nqiiciluct  cctupany,  wlio  brini:;  the 
wuler  in  iron  pipes  from  n  sprinu'  al»t)ut  2  miles  distant. 
Till!  JIu<hon  and  Berkshire  liail-rond  c<tminenccs  at  this 
place,  und  extends  to  West  Stockbiidtj:c,  Mass.  a  distance 
of  31  miles;  runnint;  within  7  miles  of  Lebanon  Springs, 
whicli  are  much  resorted  to  during  the  summer  months. 
The  New- York  and  Alb  my  steamboats  land  and  receive 
passengers  several  times  daily,  durinj;  tlie  season  of  navi- 
gation, inadlition  to  the  passage  and  freigiit  boats  which 
run  to  and  from  New-York  direct,  thus  nH'ordincj  a  speedy 
communication  between  the  cities  of  New- York  and  Bos- 
ton, a  total  distance  by  this  route  of  about  300  miles, 
extendintj  tiirou'^h  an  interesting  country. 

A  steam  ferry  boat  crosses  the  river  from  Hudson  to 
Atiikns,  a  chartered  village  on  the  west  shore  contain- 
ing about  J, 300  inhabitants. 

Foun  Milk  Point,  120  miles  above  New-York,  is 
considered  tlie  head  of  ship  navigation  on  the  Hud- 
son.  Kinderliook  creek  here  enters  the  river  on  the  east 
side,  and  near  its  mouth  is  situnted  the  manufacturing 
village  of  Coi.umdiaviixe. 

CoxsACKii:  Landing,  8  miles  above  Hudson,  is  situa- 
ted  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson  22  miles  below 
the  city  of  Albany.  Here  are  three  seperate  land- 
ings within  the  distance  of  a  mile,  altogether  contain- 
ing  about  1,200  inhabitants,  150  dwelling  houses,  1 
Dutch  Jleforme  1,  1  Baptist,  and  1  Methodist  church  ; 
an  academy,  4  public  houses,  16  stores  of  different  kinds 
and  15  warehouses;  1  steam  plaster  mill  and  1  furnace; 
1  ship  yard  and  2  dry  docks  for  building  and  repairing 
vessels;  19  extensive  brick  yards  where  are  manufactured 
yearly  about  30  millions  of  bricks.     This  is  also  a  cunve- 


-^  *s^- 


il 


Ji 


f 


ra 


iiirnsoN  RivKn 


nicnl  stenmbout  i.-T;:!i!»"^,  nt  which  sletunbonts  touch  seve- 
ral lim"s  (hiily,  (IiiriM!»  tlie  season  of  navigation. 

Tlic  vilhiire  of  Coxsac  kik,  1  mile  west  of  the  landing, 
contains  about  r)()()  inhabitants,  and  is  surroiiniled  by  fer- 
tile lands,  extending  to  the  base  of  the  llelderberg  nioun- 
tnins. 

Stuvvksant,  I  miles  further  on  t)»c  east  side  of  tlie 
river,  is  a  llourishinv;  place  of  business,  iVoni  which 
lari^e  qtuuitilies  of  produce  are  annually  sent  to  the  New- 
York  market,  tlie  country  in  the  interior  being  justly 
celebrated  for  its  fertility. 

A  sliort  distance  nortli  is  the  steanWxmt  Ian  lin?;  for  the 
above  place,  and  for  t!ve  village  o'"  l\iNnKuiiooK  situated 
about  C)  miles  east  of  the  river,  and  noted  for  the  beauty 
of  its  location.  It  is  the  birthplace  of  e\-President 
Van  Buren,  and  his  present  residence  is  a  pleasant  seal 
about  two  miles  south  of  the  village. 

New  li.\i,TiM0HF.,  4  miles  above,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Hudson,  and  11  miles  from  Albany,  is  a  village  of  about 
400  inhabitants.  Here  is  a  convenient  steamljoat  land- 
ing, where  the  passage  boats  usually  land  and  receive 
passengers. 

GoK.YM,\Ns,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  12  miles  be- 
low Albany,  is  the  last  landing  the  boats  make  on  their 
upward  trips.  The  village  contains  about  700  inhabi- 
tants, and  here  are  owned  several  sloops  trading  with 
the  New-York  market.  Barren  I^slaiul,  lying  imme- 
diately below  the  village  of  Coeymans,  is  on  the  south 
bounds  of  tht  old  colony  of  Rensselaerwj'ck,  and  was  for- 
tified and  garrisoned  by  one  (whhe  early  Patroons,  in  1(541. 
All  foreign   traders  were  here  obliged  to  come  to,    am' 

-arn  the  terms  on  which  the  port  of  the  colony  might  be 
er'.ered.  It  now  presents  a  rocky  and  sterile  appearance 
being  well  adapted  for  the  purposes  for  which  it  was  ori- 


-•^" 


AND  ITS  VICINITY. 


73 


lie- 

Llieir 

iiibi- 

^vith 

iino- 

huth 

Ibr- 

()41. 

I  am' 

it  be 

ince 

lori- 


>:»iiuilly  opciij)i('1,  as  it  fomplcfoly  commands  tlu:  channel 
ol'llic  river. 

Castukton,  1  milns  above  Cocymans  and 8  miles  from 
Albiiny,  is  on  tlie  cast  side  of  the  river.  lIiMc  is  forming 
u  l)nr  in  the  chtinnel  of  tlie  river,  which  is  very  injurious 
•t<'  navii^ution. 

J'he  OvKHsi.-vnr.ii.  .1  miles  beh)w  the  city  of  Albany, 
lias  heretofore  forme  1  the  principal  obstruction  to  the 
fre(!  iiavia;alioii  of  the  llii  Ison  on  its  tidi;  waters.  Here 
were  severiil  bnrs  or  (lats,  with  narrow  channels,  afl'ord- 
hi'T  at  l<r\  tides  hut  a  small  depth  of  water — this  <d)struc- 
tion,  however,  lias  of  late  been  iiioslly  retno\(!d  by  an 
expenditure  by  (he  I'nited  States  (lovernmeat,  tlie  (h^pth 
of  the  \\:i>er  beiii'r  materially  increased,  tlie  channel 
made  slrai.i:ht,  and  the  navitriition  much  improved. 

(] ;-.",!-.  •;,  ;i,  (.pro  il<'  tin;  M)utli  l)art  of  llu;  cily  of 
Alhiiiiy.  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  steam  feny  boat, 
contains  about  iH)()  inhabitants.  Immediately  above  may 
be  seen  (lie  ucw  depTt  and  buildings  attached  to  the  Bos- 
ton Railroad.  From  the  depot  at  Greenbush  to  the  city 
of  Troy,  a  diptance  of  G  miles,  a  branch  railroad  is  now 
in  progress  of  construction. 

ALBANY,  the  c;ipilal  of  the  State,  and  one  of  the 
•oldest  cities  in  the  UnioJi,  is  eligibly  .»;ituated  on  tiie  west 
side  of  the  Hudson  river,  1 1;">  miles  north  of  the  city  of  New- 
York;  ',]2y>  miles  by  railroad,  east  of  Buffalo;  200  west 
of  15os((ni,  and  250  south  of  Montreal.  It  was  originally 
called  "  Beaver  Wyck"  (i.  e.  Beaver  Town,)  and  al'ter- 
Avard  "  WilUamsladt."  It  received  its  present  name  in 
Kid  I,  in  honor  of  James,  duke  of  York  and  Albany,  af- 
terwards .laiues  II.,  in  whose  reign  the  original  city  char- 
ter was  granted  by  CovernOj^-  Hoiigan,  July  22,  IGSG,  and 
the  government  vested  in  ''The  IVIayor,  Aldermen  and 
Commonalty   of  the  cily   of  Albany,"   consisting  of  the 

P 


-••'"fii,.. 


k 


I 


■ 

I 


74 


HUDSON    RIVER 


Mayor,  Recorder,  ten  Aldermen  and  ten  Assistants. 
The  charter  has  been  materially  altered  by  recent  enact- 
ments of  the  Legislature ;  the  assistant  aldermen  are 
merged  in  ten  aldermen,  but  the  corporate  name  is  still 
preserved.  It  is  now  divided  into  10  wards.  In  1840,  its 
population  was  33,721. 

It  is  indebted  for  its  prosperity  to  the  enterprise  of  its 
inhabitants,  and  the  impulse  given  to  its  trade  by  the  Erie 
and  Champlain  canals,  which  unite  about  9  miles  to  the 
north,  and  enter  the  Hudson  river  at  the  north  end  of  the 
city.  A  basin  has  been  formed  in  front  of  the  city,  pro- 
tected from  tlie  river  by  a  pier  one  mile  and  a  quarter 
in  length,  furnishing  a  safe  harbor,  for  vessels  and  se- 
curing them  from  injury  by  the  ice,  which  in  the  spring 
freshets,  comes  down  the  river  in  immense  quantities, 
sometimes  causing  great  damage.  The  city  is  command- 
ing in  its  situation,  and  appears  to  great  advantage  lirom 
the  river.  There  are  three  ravines  running  from  east  to 
west,  known  as  the  Foxes  Kill,  the  Rutten  Kill,  and  the 
Beaver  Kill,  on  each  side  of  which  the  land  is  higli,  be- 
ing at  an  elevation  of  from  140  to  160  feet  above,  and 
gradually  ascending  from  the  river.  The  view  from 
either  of  the  heights  is  picturesque  in  the  highest  de- 
gree. To  the  north  may  be  seen  the  city  of  Troy  and 
the  adjacent  villages,  and  in  the  distance  the  hills  of  Ver- 
mont. To  the  east  the  beautiful  extent  of  country  lying 
beyond  the  Hudson  river,  and  to  the  south  tlie  Helder- 
bergs.  and  Catskill  mountains.  The  public  buildings  are 
of  the  most  beautiful  and  tasteful  character.  The  Capi- 
tol, occupied  by  the  legislature  and  the  state  courts  ;  the 
State  Hall,  just  completed,  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
public  offices;  the  City  Hall,  occupied  for  city  and  county 
purposes,  and  by  the  United  States  Courts  ;  and  the  Al- 
bany  Academy,    having  300   pupils,    face    the    public 


AND  ITS  VICINITY. 


76 


I 


square  at  the  head  of  State-street.  This  square  is  form- 
ed by  the  Capitol  and  Academy  Parks,  which  are  enclosed 
with  substantial  iron  fences,  erected  on  stone  bases,  and 
are  laid  out  with  walks  lined  with  ornamental  trees  of 
the  choicest  species.  A  more  delightful  spot  in  the  sum- 
mer, is  not  to  be  found  in  any  inland  city  in  the  Union. 
A  few  ro;ls  south  of  the  square,  on  Eagle-street,  is  the 
County  Jail  and  the  Medical  Cbllege.  This  College  was 
incorporated  in  1839,  and  occupies  x  building  granted  to 
it  by  the  corporation  of  the  city,  admirably  adapted  for  its 
purposes.  The  College  already  possesses  one  of  the 
most  valuable  museums  in  the  country,  which  has  recent- 
ly been  greatly  enlarged  and  enriched,  by  specimens  im- 
ported direct  from  Germany  and  France.  In  addition  to 
the  Academy  spoken  of,  there  is  p  Female  Academy, 
which  has  annually  from  300  to  350  pupils.  This  insti- 
tution ranks  high,  and  occupies  a  hamlsome  and  con- 
venient edifice  in  North  Pearl-street.  Connected  with 
it  is  the  Albany  Library,  numbering  9,000  volumes. 
The  Albany  Exchange,  situated  at  the  foot  of  State- 
street,  is  a  large  and  commodious  building,  constructed  of 
granite.  It  is  occupied  for  stores,  offices  of  professional 
men,  and  the  post-office.  The  Young  Men's  Association, 
established  for  "Mutual  Improvement,"  also  occupies 
rooms  in  this  building;  it  was  the  pioneer  institution  of 
its  kind  in  this  siate,  and  embraces  all  ranks  and  pioies- 
sions,  now  numbering  1,500  members.  It  has  an  exten- 
sive reading  room,  supplied  with  the  leading  newspapers 
of  this  country  and  England;  also  a  room,  furnished  with 
the  most  popular  and  standard  periodicals  and  reviews, 
native  and  foreign;  an  excellent  library  of  about  3,200 
volumes,  and  a  lecture  room  capable  of  seating  300  per- 
sons, in  which  two  lectures  a  week  are  delivered,  from 
the  first  of  December  to  the   first  of  March.     Strangers 


T6 


II  I' OHO N     UIVIOIl 


liMVc  Cn-c  nrccss  to  :ill  t  xrcpl  llic  li-cliiic  rcoiu  ;in  I  liltiury. 
There  lire  I  I'rcsltyln'iuii  rluiiTlics,  I  Assorinlc  do,  !J 
Dutch  Hcrormcil.  1  riiiliriiin,  I  IMcthoilist  lOpiscoj)!!!,  1 
AlVioiin    (h).,    'A    H.iptisl,     I    <'<<Ior(il    do.,  V?   I.iithfrnii,   !? 


1 


pisi'opnlum,  I  I'liivt  rsjilisl,  !?  I\»iin:tn  CiiHudic,  1  Iiidc- 
pnidrnf  I'hurch,  I  Mission  House.  ',*  .lewisli  Syin!!:ou;ues, 
I  Helhel    mid   I    I'rieuls'  INleefiutr  House. 

The  old  Stiiti'  lliill.  recently  occupied  lor  ,'~lnle  (dli- 
ces,  is  converted  into  n  inu^^eutii  lor  llie  ic(  epliou  id"  the 
jjoolou'icnl  cfthinet  I'oiiued  under  the  direction  o(  1,h<? 
Sfitte  ;:eohiLriciil  snr\  eyiMs.  The  New- V(uK  St;iti'  Airii- 
oidtuinl  Stu'iety.  niso  here  Indd  th(  ir  nieetitu's  in  n  room 
res(M\ cd  lor  ll'.;it  imrpcse.  'I'he  (  tlicr  public  institutions 
\vhose  nieiMinus  ure  htdd  ut  .Mhnny,  nre  the  Ne\v-Vorlv 
Stnte  'I'eMiper;ince  ^Jeciely,  ;in  !  tlie  Stiitc  iMe.lii  ;il  Soi'lety. 
'I'hero  ;ire  ,i's(i.  in  the  city.  inttl'iliiU  to  ll.oe  ku'Ii- 
tione.l .  \  iiiious  lienm  olent.  reIi';ious  nnd  scier.tilic  iiislilti- 
tions  :  nnu-nir  them  tl>e  .\lb;iny  Institute,  with  u  V!ilunl)le 
lihnwv  nnd  e\tensi\e  u\useinn.  occu]>yin'_j  u  room  in  the 
Alhauy  Acndemy. 

Tiie  principul  luit<ds  in  .Mlinny.  ure.  tiie  .\meric;in  ITo- 
tel,  \00  State-street  ;  (Mty  Hot(d.  2'A  Hroudway;  Clin- 
ton Hot(d.  1!)  South  Tearl  streei:  t'olumhinn  Hotel,  !<>! 
MarUel. street;  (\m;;re-^s  Hall,  TarU  Place,  near  tli«^ 
(\Mpitoi:  nel.'nnn  I'emiK'rauce  House,  7  7  Unailway; 
Kngle  Tavern.  I0;">  MsirKel-street;  V.ustern  Ivailroad  Ifo- 
lol,  l:^:^  and  l.')7  Market-street;  P.-rt  0:au;;c  Hotel,  In!} 
Mnrkot-street;  Praulvlii\  Hous^'.  liUi  and  115^  State. street; 
Miu\si<ui  House.  'J  1  I'readway;  IMontijomery  Hall,  r>/) 
MarUct-strect:  riomrh  Het-l,  i'Jii  Stalo-^l;  o,  1 ;  Kaiiroud 
Hotel.  St  t!i\vi\  Hall,  corner  ot'  I'li'.tdw  ay  a  i\  !  .Mai.!(>!v 
Lano;  Huilroad  Hous(\  "JtUi  Mar!-.el-street:  I'nited  States 
House.  117  Mark*  (-streei;  Tnited  States  ITotel.  Dl  AVash- 
inston-strcet;  Washimrton  Hall,  'J"»  South  Pearl-slrcet. 


i 


And  its  vicinity. 


77 


I 


riic  tradr,  cornnn'rcc  nnil  iniitmfnclnrr'S  of  Albany  Jir«J 
Very  coiisidcriililc;  in  llic  y«'iir  1^12,  27  filnimhctnts  orul 
ftl  low  bonis  plicil  rctrulnrly  lictWfMHi  Ali>iiiiy  niid  Nf;w- 
^'<>rli  iintl  l,li»"  iiit('rriM'(liul<;  pljicrs  on  llic  Ifudsoii  riv«;r. 
Tlir  Moliairlf.  ami  Hudson  Railroad,  anionic  lh«;  first 
roails  Imill  in  llic  coitiitry,  and  coiuicclnl  with  tlic  Uticn 
and  Sf'IicncctiKly  and  S!lr!lt(l!^'l  and  Sclicncclaily  Kail- 
loiiils,  ici minutes  at  Alb;iny.  An  anan'^'rnu-nt  is  ii!)OUl 
to  be  MKidc  liy  wliiidi  llic  iti(din<'d  pinnrs,  wliicli  form  so 
prcal  an  olijcctioii  fo  fliis  road,  ate  to  lie  dispcascil  with. 
TIic  .llhiimi  and  West  Slorlchridiiii  Rail  road  ri\uui'rl?i  tha 
Woslcrn  l{aib'oad  at  llic  stair;  lino  between  Mussarhu- 
sctts  and  N'ew-York,  forniins;  a  continnons  line  of  rail- 
roads  (Voin  y\lliaay  lo  Ho:  Ion,  In  addition  to  the  rail- 
road and  steanilioat  lines,  there  are  ei<;Iit»'cn  lines  of 
slat:;es  ninnin'4  (Vom  Albany  to  dillerenl  places.  It  is  es- 
tiinaled  that  I ,  iOO  passenJ^TS  arrive  and  depart  daily. 

The  lennin:ili()n  oltlie  canals  and  railroads  at  Albany, 
renders  il  the  ceiilre  oClrade  and  trans-sliipnicnt,  ami  has 
opened  to  the  enterprise  of  her  nicrcdiants    and    artisans 

isarnas; 


an  (.'.vtent 


sources. 


ilry  unsnrp 


1    in  its    wealth  and  re- 


DisTANCKs   KiioM  Ai.HANV  TO   T?os'ro>f,    by  llailroail 


To  West  SlocUbridi^e 


38  Miles. 


Slate  Line  lo  I'illslield,  Western  R.  R.  )  1 1     d!)     " 


Spriiii:lield, 
\V«)rcester, 


do. 
do. 


13()ston  and  Worcester  l^ailroad, 


■5.'}    102     •' 

iM   151)     " 

44  200     " 


I'tKid 

li.leu 

atcs 

hsh- 
t. 


DiST.ANCKS     VllOM    Al.n.VNV^    TO    TIIK    ClTif    Ol'    Wa 


Sl£- 


INGTON,  by  Steamboat  and  Jiailroad  Ivoute; 


New-York,  by  steamboat, 


145  Miles. 


Philadelpliiu,  b\j  rail-ruad, 86  2;}1 


Baltimore, 
Waahinjiton, 


96  327     " 
38  365     " 


I 


i 


79  HUDSON  uivRn 

Distances  fuom  Albany   to  Buffalo,  by  Railroad: 

Mohawk  an  I  Hudson  RailroaJ,  .-•  16  Miles. 

IJtiou  and  Schctiectaily      "         77    93     ** 

Syracuse  amt  Ulica,  "  53  14(»     " 

Auburn  an  I  Syracuse,        "  26  172     " 

Auburn  aii;l  Rochester,      "  ....  7<)  251     " 

Totunvania,  via  Halavia, 43  2!)4     " 

Attica   atiil  liuUalo, 31325     " 

Distances  kuow  Alhany  to  Montukal.    via  Sara- 
toga S'l'iiu^s  aiiil  Lake  Cliainplain  : 

To  Troy.  /;;/  stage, G  MHos 

Bail-iuu  Spa,  bi/ rail-road, 21     30     " 

S,.ii'102;a  Springs,       '' 7     37     " 

WhMchnW,  hi/  .stage, 3f)     7G     " 

hi.  John's,  Canaia,  .steamboat, 150  220     " 

La  Prairie,  6?/  rail-road, 15  24  1     '' 

hU^,^.ten\,  by  steambuat, 9  250     " 


Wc  copy  the  folIoAvins:  extract  relating  to  the  early 
history  of  Albany: 

'*  The  younger  race  oriashionables  anl  scuii-fashior.a- 
bles  know  Albany,  or  ailed  to  kiiow  it,  merely  as  a  big 
city-looking  place,  lull  of  taverns  an:!  hotels,  where  they 
land  from  tlic  steamboat,  en  their  way  (o  Sr.ratoga,  Ni- 
as?ura  or  Quebec.  Another  set  of  less  locomotive  good 
folks,  especially  in  IVew-\ork  an,l  Phiiadelphia,  have  no 
notions  about  it,  but  those  derived  from  the  old  tradition. 
ary  jokes  upon  its  ancient  Schepens  and  Schouteus,  il.s 
burly  r)ar.j;omaslers,  '  its  lofty  spires  glittering  with  lin^ 
and  hospitable  boarJ.s  smoking  with  sturgeon.' 

••  But  in  honest  truth,  there  uyc  few  cities  of  the  si/c 
any  where,  whicli  can  e.\liibit  a  greater  or  a  more  ugrec- 
ublc  variety  of  society  and  manners.  In  Albany  may  be 
loun'l  talent  and  learning,  accomplishment  and  beauty. 
The  towns  of  Europe  of  the  same  size  and  relative  im- 
portance, can  in  this  respect  bear  no  sort  oi'  comparison 
with  it.     Then,  too,  its   situation,  the  prospect  from  it* 


I 


AND  ITS  VICINITY. 


79 


3)1, 
hi 
in 

ize 
?c- 


on 
iU 


1^ 


higher  grounds  and  streets  abound  in  scenes  meet  for 
romantic  liclion.  Albany  is  rich  also  in  more  sober,  but 
equally  interesting  recollections  of  our  national  history. 
There,  (to  use  the  once  fatiiiliar  poisonification  in  which 
Indian  oratory  delighleil  to  speak  of  the  FienfJli  and  Eng- 
lish  governments,)  Corkier  and  Ononthio  were  wont  to 
meet  and  plant  the  tree  of  peace,  or  else  extinguish  their 
council  fire  and  part  in  wrath.  There,  about  the  middle 
of  the  last  century,  (1751,)  the  governors  of  the  several 
provinces  met  the  chiefs  of  the  Six  Nations,  and  the  am- 
bassadors of  tlie  Cutavvbas  and  other  southern  tribes, 
and  buried  llie  hatchet  between  tlie  whole  Indian  race  on 
this  continent,  and  p!;)!ilf'1  the  tree  of  peace  in  Fort 
Orange.*  There,  three  years  after,  was  held  that  first 
General  Congress,  in  which  the  earliest  arrangements  for 
national  defence  were  made,  and  where,  by  one  of  those 
remarkable  coincidences  with  which  the  hand  of  Provi- 
dence  has  legibly  inscribed  the  evidence  of  its  own  work- 
ings  in  every  part  of  our  national  history,  upon  the  fourth 
of  July,  1751,  Benjamin  Franklin,  and  other  patritas  des- 
tined to  the  highest  honors  of  their  country,  si. jied  the 
first  plan  of  American  Union,  and  proclaimed  to  the 
Colonies  that  they  were  one  people,  fit  to  govern  and  able 
to  protect  themselves.  Why  need  f  speak  of  the  events 
of  the  Revolution?  At  Albany,  ia  the  most  eventful 
periods  of  that  struggle,  Moutgo  aery,  and  Schuyler,  and 
Gf'tts,  and  the  elder  Clinton,  in  turns  planned  or  directed 
the  operations  of  war,  while  the  civil  wisdom  and  moral 
courage  of  Jay,  gave  new  confidence  to  public  spirit^  and 
fresh  vigor  to  our  counsels." 

*Oii  tlio  spot,  wiiero  now  stands  the  housi;  formerly  occupied  by  thfi 
vciiemblo  siiimcou  Do  Witt,  (or  niLiny  years  Surveyor-Wenonil  of  the 
State,  and  at  present  known  as  the  Fort  Okange  IIotei.,  situated  In 
Market-street,  near  L.»  diuj-- :tre«t. 


*    ) 


I 


«,'l 


p 


80 


HUDSON  Riven 


ALBANY,    NINETY    YEAllS    SINCE - 


The  following  description  of  Albany,  is  taken  from 
Mrs.  Grant's  interesting  "Memoirs  of  an  American 
Lady." 

"The  city  of  Albany  was  stretched  along  the  banks 
of  the  Hudson  ;  one  very  wide  and  long  street  hiy  paral- 
lel to  the  'ver,  the  intermediate  space  l)etween  it  and  the 
shore  bein-,  occupied  by  gardens.  A  tunall,  but  steep  hill 
rose  above  the  centre  of  the  town,  on  which  stood  a  fort, 
intended  (but  very  ill  adapted,)  for  the  defence  of  the 
place,  and  of  the  ncghboring  country.  From  the  foot  of 
this  hill,  another  street  was  built,  [now  State-street,] 
sloping  pretty  rapidly  down  till  it  joined  the  one  before 
mentioned  that  I'an  along  the  river.  This  street  was  still 
wider  than  the  other  J  it  ^vas  only  pavel  on  each  side, 
the  middle  being  occupied  by  public  edilices.  These  con- 
sisted of  a  market  place,  or  guard-houivO,  a  toA\n  hall, 
and  the  Knglish  anl  Dutch  cliurches.  Tlie  English 
cliurch  stood  at  llie  upper  tuJ  of  the  sticel;  the  Dutch 
church  was  situated  at  the  bottom  of  the  descent  where 
the  street  terminated.  The  town  in  proportion  to  its 
population,  occupied  a  great  space  of  ground.  This  city, 
in  short,  was  a  kind  of  semi-rural  establishment;  every 
house  had  its  garden,  a  well,  and  a  little  green  behind, — 
before  every  door  a  tree  was  planted,  rendered  interest- 
ing by  being  coeval  with  seme  beloved  member  ol'  the 
family." 


The  City  of  Tnov,  151  miles  north  of  New-York,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  tlie  Hudson  river,  at 
the  head  of  tide  water  and  steamboat  navigation,  6  miles 
above  Albany.  Its  existence  as  a  village,  may  be  dated 
from  171)0.  It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1816,  when 
tt  n)ntained   nearly  5,000   inhabita  its  ;  it  has   recci\lly 


AND    ITS    VICINITY. 


81 


IS 

ll',  III 

liles 

ited 

llien 


boon  made  a  port  of  entry,  and  contained  in  1810,  19,334 
inhubit:ltlt^^,  wlio  iire  mostly  engas:;(;d  in  comiucrce,  nuviga- 
tioa  and  inanuAictiires.  Since  the  comisktion  ol"  the  Erie 
and  Cliatnplain  canals  in  1825,  whieh,  opposite  this  place, 
ut  the  viUrige  of  West  Troy,  unite  the  waters  of  the 
lakes  with  those  of  the  Hudson,  Troy  lias  rapidly  in- 
creased in  wraith  and  poi)uIation.  Here  are  a  fine  court- 
house, huilt  <.f  niiulile,  in  the  Crecian  Doric  order  ;  a 
jail  ceusti'ufled  of  brick  ;  a  county  \)*)or-]ioiifi'j,  to  which 
a  fana  contiiinia^  about  200  ai're^i  is  aUiiclicd  ;  the  Rens- 
selaer Institute,  founded  l*y  the  late  lion.  Stephen  Van 
Rensselaer,  where  the  sciences  are  practically  taught  j 
the  Troy  Female  Seminary,  a  flourishing?  chartered  insti- 
tution ;  the  Troy  Acidemy,  also  an  excellent  classical  and 
chartered  in;!titulion  for  the  education  of  boys,  besides 
several  select  schools  for  males  and  females.  I'roy  con- 
tains two  new,  finely  iaodel!<'J  naA  expensive  market 
buildinjfs  ;  seven  Presbyteri;in  churches,  three  Episcopal, 
tu'o  IJaplist,  two  Methodist,  one  Catholic,  one  Univer- 
salist,  one  Friend's  meeting  house  and  an  Alrican  church; 
six  banks,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  $1,503,000  ;  two 
insurance  companies  ;  one  lyceum  of  natural  history,  with 
n  choice  scientific  librnry,  and  an  exteiif  ive  collection  of 
inincral.;  and  collections  in  various  branches  of  natural 
history  ;  a  Young  Men's  Association  for  mutual  improve- 
ment, with  a  large  library  and  extensive  reading  room. 
The  public  houses  in  Troy  are  numerous,  and  several 
of  them  celebrated  for  being  well  regulated  establish- 
ments :  The  juincipal  hotels  are  the  American  ilotel, 
F(uirlli,  corner  of  Elbow-street  j  IMaiiKJon  House,  4 
Washington-square  ;  Mechanic's  Hall.  1 1(1  H|\  nr-street  ; 
National  Tempernnce  House,  River,  corner  of  Ferry- 
street  ;  Northern  Hotel,  3111  lUver  hitreel ;  Troy  House, 
River,  m\\v\  of  Fli-Bt-Bhet'l )  Wusliliigtliu  WM,  33| 
Hlver-nhcut  i  York  House,  2f)VJ  liivei  etreet. 


n 


82 


HUDSON   UIVBH 


U 


la 


I 


Here  are  owncl  about  60  mnsteJ  vessels,  four  large 
passaajc  stoambcials  ol"  the  first  cluss,  two  snuiilcr  sleum 
passage  bouts  arul  five  sleuiii  tow  boats  willi  22  barges, 
whicb  ply  belwoen  Troy  anJ  New- York,  tfau^porliajL' 
annually  an  immense  aniount  ol'  produce  ani  merchan- 
dise. Four  lines  of  pussiige  and  lieiglit  boats  run  on  the 
Champlairicunul  from  Troy  :  a  line  of  packet  schooners  run 
from  this  place  to  Boston,  unJ  other  eastern  ports  ;  a  line 
of  canal  packets  to  Wliil».'luill,  nnd  lines  of  daily  stages 
run  to  Wliilc'hull,  an  I  I5ennington,  \'t.,and  to  IJrattleboro, 
Vt.,  and  lioslon.  The  water  power  at  Troy  is  immense, 
and  a  large  portion  of  it  still  lui  JCLUipied.  Within  the 
limits  ol'  the  city  and  about  a  mile  east  of  the  Hudson,  a 
tunnel  has  been  excavated  by  Mr,  Bcnj.  Marshall,  ex* 
tending  from  the  Poestcnkill,  a  distance  of  about  800  feet, 
and  gives  a  fall  of  180  feei.  Several  large  mills  and  fac- 
tories to  be  supplied  with  wafer  from  this  fall,  are  now 
in  the  progress  of  trecti'ia.  Near  the  northern  boundary 
of  the  city  a  dam  has  .oeii  huilt  arrows  the  Hudson,  by 
the  stale,  which  li'ce  i?:ake;-  a  full  of  IIt^  feet  and  creates 
an  incalculable  amounl  id'  hydraulic  power.  This  place 
is  abundantly  supplie;!  wiih  wholesome  water,  brought 
from  the  Piscawin  creek,  through  large  iron  pipes  with 
hydrants  at  the  corners  of  the  streets. 

The  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railroad  commences  at 
this  place,  crossing  the  Hudson  river  by  a  substantial 
bridge  \X)^){)  feet  in  length,  to  (ireen  islnnd  ;  thence  it 
continues  north  across  several  branches  of  the  Mohawk 
river  to  VVaterford  ;  Ibllowing  the  valley  of  the  Hudson 
until  it  reaches  Mcchanicsville,  where  it  diverges  to  the 
west  and  continues  to  the  village  of  Ballston  Spa,  a  dis- 
tance of  2-i  miles,  and  unites  with  the  Sar;itoga  and  Sche- 
nectady Railroad.  The  Schenectady  and  Troy  Railroad 
21  miles  in  length,  was  completed  in  1842  ;  it  communi- 


,  If 


I 


1 


AND    ITS   VICINITY. 


8S 


|es  at 

mtial 
Ice  it 
lawk 
id  sou 
the 
dis- 
khe- 
'oad 
liuni- 


it 


] 


itn 


iC  ot 


rates  with  tlip  wpstcrn  roads  at  Schrncctady,  nnd  will  be 
extvnded  to  CrctMilxish,  on  the  cast  side  oi'  llie  Hudson 
river,  opposite  AHfuny  ;  there  to  connect  with  the  Alba- 
ny arid  West  Stoekbridj^e  railroad,  which,  ^\  lien  completed 
will  make  a  direct  railroad  communication  I'roni  'I  to 
Uoston,  nn  1  furni&h  a  continuous  line  of  railr^'" 
Boston  to  Buiralo.  There  is  also  a  macadaim 
ulrendj  liuii^hed  from  Troy  to  Bennington,  Vt.,  a 
of  aboi.t  2(!  mil;;s.  Troy  is  connected  with  the  Vi 
West  i'roy,  in  Albany  Co.,  which  has  risen  into  impor- 
tance V.  iihin  a  few  years,  by  means  of  a  commodious 
bri  l.ije  and  two  ferries  crossing  llie  Hudson  river. 

TJu'  eity  (if  I'roy  has  long  been  celebrated  for  its  beau- 
ty and  healtiiiness.  Th';  streets  are  laid  out  at  right  an- 
gles, are  generally  wide,  reiaarkablc  ft  r  their  cleanliness, 
an  1  p!oat<-'.l  with  beautiful,  .tnd  in  the  hot  season,  most 
gratel'i.il  ftirest  and  shad«?  trees.  From  Mounts  Ida  on  the 
east  n.ivl  Olympus  on  the  north,  an  extensive  anil  clmrm- 
ing  prospect  is  presented,  euxbra^ing  a  view  of  the  valley 
of  the  IJii  Ison  for  miles,  the  city  of  Albany,  the  villages 
of  We-4  'i'roy,  Lansingburgh,  Watcrford  and  Cohoes, 
and  the  Cohoes  Falls  ;  a  landscape  presenting  more  beauty 
and  a  greater  variety  of  scenery,  can  hardly  be  imagined. 
From  the  elevations  just  inc  ntioned,  the  eye  rests  at  once, 
as  on  a  map  spread  out  before  it.  on  city  and  \illage  teem^ 
ing  with  life  and  acti\  ity — the  broad  Hudson  rolling  on 
in  majesty  to  the  ocean,  and  bearing  on  its  bosom  ileels 
of  boats  and  vessels — a  long  extent  of  the  Erie  canal,  it- 
self no  common  stream,  floating  to  market  the  products 
of  the  west — railroads,  over  which  are  passing  with  light- 
ning speed,  multitudes  in  pursuit  of  busine.-'i  or  pleasure 
— on  woodlands  and  cultivated  fields  harmoniously  blend- 
ed— and  on  a  westorn  horizon  of  undulating  highlands, 
which  towards  the  south,  blend  with  the  famed  Catskill 
mountains,  lifting  their  giant  heads  to  the  clouds. 


^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


^1^  U£ 

^   l£&    12.0 


Photographic 

ScMices 

Corporation 


m 


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23  WIST  MAIN  STMET 

WEBSTiR,N.Y.  yM%a 

(716)  •72-4503 


? 


<lf. 


4^' 


f 


84 


HUDSON  RIVER 


West  Troy,  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Hudson 
river,  6  miles  above  the  city  of  Albany,  is  a  place  of 
growing  importance.  It  was  incorporated  as  a  village  in 
1836,  and  now  contains  about  5,000  inhabitants,  800 
dwelling  houses,  8  churches,  8  public  houses,  a  large 
number  of  stores,  and  mechanics'  shops.  The  Erie  Ca- 
nal,  which  passes  through  the  centre  of  the  village,  com- 
munijcitcs  with  the  Hudson,  by  two  commodious  side- 
cuts.  It  is  a  convenient  depot  for  vast  quantities  of  pro- 
duce, lumber,  and  merchandise ;  being  on  the  Junc- 
tion Canal,  and  at  the  head  of  sloop  navigation.  The 
southern  mouth  of  the  Mohawk  here  unites  with  the 
Hudson. 

The  Watcrvliet  Arsenal,  situated  in  West  Troy,  near 
the  river,  was  established  by  the  United  States  govern- 
ment in  1813.  This  is  the  largest  arsenal  of  construction 
in  the  Union,  having  great  facilities  for  the  manufacture 
and  transportation  of  warlike  implements,  and  is  well 
worthy  of  a  visit.  The  grounds  attached  to  the  arsenal, 
consist  of  about  100  acres,  enclosed  in  front  by  an  ii-nn 
fence,  and  in  the  rear  by  a  stone  wall  Here  are  located  33 
buildings,  comprising  storehouses  for  small  arms,  gun 
sheds  for  cannon  carriages,  timber  sheds,  magazines, 
saw-mill,  paint,  carriage,  machine,  casting  and  black- 
smith shops  J  offices,  barracks,  hospitals  and  officers' 
quarters.  About  200  officers,  soldiers  and  hired  work- 
men are  constantly  employed  at  this  post,  which  number 
could  be  greatly  increased  if  found  necessary.  Here  are 
now  manufactured  munitions  of  war,  amounting  to  an 
estimated  value  of  $100, 000  annually.  The  total  value 
on  hand,  January,  1841,  amounted  to  $1,662,320. 

Lansingburgh,  3  miles  above  Troy  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Hudson,  is  one  of  the  oldest  villages  in  the  state, 
being  incorporated  as  early  as   1787 ;  it  now  contains 


AND    ITS  VICINITY. 


85 


f 


near 


i 


about  3,000  inhabitants.  During  the  Revolutionary  war 
it  was  a  place  of  considerable  importance.  It  has  since 
increased  but  slowly,  owing  to  obstructions  in  the  chan- 
nel of  the  Hudson,  and  the  consequent  growth  of  Troy. 

Waterfokd,  situated  1  '^ile  above  Lansingburgh,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  155  miles  north  of  the 
city  of  New- York,  is  at  the  very  head  of  sloop  naviga- 
tion on  the  Hudson,  with  which  the  northern  mouth  of 
the  Mohav/k  here  unites.  Navigation  is  kept  up  to  this 
place  by  means  of  a  dam  and  sloajp  lock  at  the  upper  part 
of  the  city  of  Troy.  Waterford  was  incorporated  in  1805, 
and  now  contains  a  population  of  about  1,400  inhabitants. 

The  village  of  Coiioes  two  miles  west  of  Waterford, 
is  situated  on  the  southwest  bank  of  the  Mohawk  river, 
a  short  distance  below  tl'.e  Cohoes  Falls  and  near  the 
junction  of  ll'.t;  TlrJc  aiul  Cl.fuiiplain  caials.  Here  is  af- 
forded by  the  Mohawk,  an.  immense  amount  of  hydrau- 
lic power.  If  found  necessary  the  whole  volume  of  wa- 
ter in  the  river  can  be  used  for  propelling  machinery  to 
almost  any  extent,  having  a  total  fall  of  about  140  feet. 
Here  are  several  extensive  manufacturing  establishments  j 
6  churches  j  1  hotel ;  12  stores,  and  a  population  of  2,000 
inhabitants,  mostly  employed  in  the  above  manufactories. 
Stages  pass  through  this  village  several  times  daily,  run- 
ning between  Albany  and  Waterford,  a  distance  of  10  miles. 

Coiioes  Falls,  situated  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
Cohoes  village,  is  an  object  of  gi-eat  attraction.  It  is  much 
resorted  to  during  the  summer  months,  by  visitors  from 
all  parts  of  the  Union.  The  water  of  the  Mohawk  here 
has  a  perpendicular  fall  of  70  feet,  besides  a  rapid  de- 
scent above  and  below.  The  banks  of  the  river  present 
a  grand  and  romantic  appearance,  varying  in  almost  per- 
pendicular heighth  of  from  50  to  120  feet,  for  the  distance 
of  half  a  mile  below  the  falls,  where  a  substantial  bridge, 
about  800  feet  long,  spans  the  stream. 


86  STEAMBOATS. 

HUDSON  RIVER  STEAMBOATS. 

The  followins  list  ombraccs  all  the  Passaoe  Hoats  built  iind  running 
on  the  Iliulsrin  River,  between  Now- York,  Albuny  and  Troy,  since  their 
first  introduction  by  Robert  Fulton,  in  tho  fall  of  1807. 


Built 


i 


1807 

1808 

1809 

1811 

1811 

1811 

1R13 

1815 

1816 

1823 

1824 

1825 

1825 

1835 

1825 

1825 

1826 

1826 

1827 

1827 

1827 

1827 

1828 

1829 

1830 

1832 

1832 

1833 

1835 

1836 

1836 

1&37 

1838 

1839 

1839 

1840 

1840 

1841 

1841 

1842 

1843 

1843 


Name. 


Clermont,    -    • 
North  Kiver,    ■ 
Car  of  Neptune, 
Hope,    .    -    -    - 
Perseverance,    - 
Paraxon,     -     • 
j  Richmond,    •    - 
Olive  Bratirh,    - 
Cli,  Livinijston,  - 
.lames  Kent. 
Hiid.son,    .    •    - 
Sandusky,    -    • 
Constitution,'    - 
OonstcUafion, 
Ch.  .lus.  Marshall, 
Saratoga,  -    -    - 
Sun,*    .... 
New-Philadelphia, 
Albany,    -    •     • 
Independence,  . 
North  America, 
Victory,    -    -    - 
I)e  Witt  Clinton, 
()hio,§     -    -     - 
Novelty,      ■    - 
Champlain,    -    - 
Erif>,||      .    . 
Helen,    ... 
Robert  L.  Stevens 
Rochester,    •    . 
Swallow,      .     . 
Ufica,     -     -      - 
Diamond,    -    • 
Balloon,    •    •    . 
North  America, 
South  America, 
Tioy,    .    .    - 
Columbia,    .    • 
Rainbow, 
Curtis  Peck,     • 
JEmpire,    .    •   - 
'Knickerbocker, 


Tons 


160 
295 
280 

280 

xn 

370 

2C5 
494 
346 
170 
2S9 
276 
276 
.300 
250 
?80 
.100 
.393 
368 
407 
290 
571 
412 
477 
471 
471 

20R 
491 
4'?6 
.340 
39R 
204 
494 
63R 
724 
391 
230 

930 

853 


CoMMANDBItS. 


RemarkH. 


James  Winans, 
Samuel  Wiswall, 
A.  II  Roorabach, 
E.  S.  Bunker,  .  • 
J  Sliermnn,  -  - 
Andrew  Bartholomew, 
Jo;ib  Center, 
James  Moom,  -  -  -i 
S.  Wiswall  &.  J.  Confer, 
Thomas  Wisw^all,  -  - 
M.  Bartholomew,  .  - 
Jamosi  Pi'noyer,  .  -  - 
Wm.  J.  Wiswall,  ■  - 
Robert  G.  Cmtlenden, 
Richard  W.  Sherman, 
James  Benson,  .  . 
II.  Drake,  .... 
(leorge  E  Seymour, 
I  J.  G.  Jenkins  &R.  Macy 
Wm.  J.  Wiswall, 
Gideon  I.athrop, 
San  ford  Cobb,  . 
J  Sherman  &S.  R.  Roe 
M.  Bartholomew, 
Daniel  Peck,  .  . 
Adolphus  Gorham, 
James  Benson,  . 
Henry  Burden,  - 
Joseph  p.  Dean,  • 
A.  Hon^hton,  . 
Alex.  .McLean,  • 
A.  II.  Shultz,  ■  - 
A  Flowor,  .  .  - 
David  Hitchcock, 
II  G.  Cruttendi>n, 
M  H.  Trnesdell, 
Adolphus  Gorham, 
T.  P.  Newbury, 
Capt.  Fury,  -  .  • 
Wm.  Peck,  -  - 
Stepiien  R.  Roe. 
A  P.  St.  John,    - 


Nnmeelianged. 
Broken  up. 
Broken  up. 
Broken  up. 
Broken  up. 
Sunk,  1R25. 
Broken  up. 
Broken  up. 
f;!oal  bari^e. 
Ciial  barjue. 
Broken  up. 
Tow  boat. 
Now  Indiana. 
Tow  b.irge. 
Lost  in  i;.  I  S'd. 
Tow  harsre. 
Burnt,  1831. 
Delaware  river. 
Runs  !o  Troy. 
Phila.  roule. 
Des.byice,ia39 
From  Rondoul. 
Ens.  in  Knick. 
Tow  barge. 
From  Rondout, 
Tow  b:ir!j;e. 
Tow  harffo. 
Dei?troyed,  1R14 
To  Piermont. 
Runs  to  Albany 
Runs  to  Troy. 
Runs  to  Hudson 
Laid  up 
Laic"  wp 
Runs  to  Allany 
Run.^ti.  Albany 
Runs  to  Troy. 
Huns  to  Albany 
l)el;<war(\rivcr. 
Runs  to  Albany 
Rims  to  Troy. 
Runs  to  Albany 


*  Exploded  her  boilers  in  1825,  killing  3  persons. 

t  Exploded  her  boiler  in  1330,  killing  11  persons. 

t  Built  to  run  as  a  day  boat  between  New- York  and  Albany. 

i  Exploded  her  chinmey  or  flue  in  1832,  killing  5  persons. 

I  Exploded  her  chimney  or  flue  in  1838,  slightly  injuring  1  person. 


\ 


1  ! 


STEAMBOATS. 


87 


r 


Passenger  Barges.  ' 

In  1S26,  the  steamboat  Commerce,  Capt.  George  E. 
Seymour,  towed  the  passenser  barge  Lady  Clinton,  and  the 
steamboat  Swiftsure,  Capt.  Cowden,  towed  the  passen- 
ger barge  Lady  Van  Rensselaer. 


it 

4. 

(( 

17 

11 

5. 

u 

20 

(1 

'SI 

n 

30 

(( 

7. 

(C 

36 

(( 


(< 


tt 


Copy  of  an  Advertisement  taken  from  the  Albany  Oa- 
zette,  dated  September,  1807. 

"  The  North  River  Steamboat,  will  leave  Pauler's 
Hook  Ferry  [now  Jersey  City,]  on  Friday  the  4th  of  Sep- 
tember, at  9  in  the  morning,  and  arrive  at  Albany  on  Sa- 
turday, at  9  in  the  afternoon.  Provisions,  good  berths 
and  accommodations  are  provided. 
**  The  charge  to  each  passenger  is  as  follows : 
To  Newburgh,  dols.  3.  time,  14  hours. 

**   Poughkeepsie, 
"  Esopus, 
"   Hudson, 
"  Albany, 

'*  For  places,  apply  to  Wm.  Vandervoort,  No,  48  Coiirt- 
laadtstreet,  on  the  corner  of  Greenwich-street. 
*•  Sept.  2,  1807." 

Extract  from  the  N.  Y.  Evening  Post,  dated  Oct.  2, 1807. 
"Mr.  Fulton's  new-invented  steamboat,  which  is  fitted 
up  in  a  neat  style  for  passengers,  and  is  intended  to  run 
from  New- York  to  Albany  as  a  Packet,  left  here  this 
morning  with  ninety  passengers  against  a  strong  head 
wind.  Notwithstanding  which,  it  was  judged  she  moved 
through  the  water  at  the  rate  of  six  miles  an  hour." 

Extract  from  the  Albany  Gazette,  dated  Oct.  5,  1807 
"  Friday,  Oct  2,  1807,  the  steamboat  [Clermont,]  lefj 
New- York  at  10  o'clock  A.  M.   against  a   stormy  tide, 
very  rough  water,  and  a  violent  gale  from  the  north.    She 


m 


BTBAMB0AT8. 


made  a  hcaclway  bej'ond  the  most  sanguine  expectations, 
and  without  being  rocked  by  the  waves. 

"  Arrived  at  Albany  Oct.  4,  at  10  o'clock  P.  M.  being 
detained  by  being  obliged  to  come  to  anchor,  owing  to  a 
gale,  and  having  one  of  her  paddle  wheels  tore  away  by 
running  foul  of  a  sloop." 

Note. — It  is  stated  on  the  authority  of  Capt.  E.  S. 
Bunker,  that  the  Clermont,  or  experiment  boat,  as 
sometimes  called,  the  first  steamboat  constructed  under 
the  direction  and  superinteudence  of  Robert  Fulton  in 
1807,/  was  100  feet  long,  12  feet  wide,  and  7  feet  deep. 
In  1808,  she  was  lengthened  to  150  feet,  widened  to  18 
feet,  and  had  her  name  changed  to  North  River.  The 
engine  was  constructed  in  England,  by  Watt  &  Bolton, 
and  brought  to  New-York  in  Dec.  ISOG,  by  Mr.  Fulton, 
The  hull  of  the  bout  was  coustriicted  by  David  Drown, 
an  eminent  ship  builder  in  New-York.  In  August  1807, 
the  boat  was  propelled  by  steam  from  the  East  River  to 
the  Jersey  shore,  and  on  the  2d  of  October  following  she 
started  on  her  first  trip  to  Albany. 


THE  CLERMONT. 


1    ' 


V  I 


I 


H 


J>»-  >hr/,-  Itim^htd  In-.l  Ih.lm^^ri  l-'tt. 


"FRRAtA 

^Ifn 

in 

M 

'A J  ^ 

\  }"■ ' 

-  n 

'^l 

\9» 


!<**•>, 


%  ^ 


5  ^^ 


^ 


/•^-  ► 


TOUR  TO  THE  SPRINGS,  LAKE  GEORGE, 
AND  CANADA, 

■       ■         ■■  '       * 

There  are  now  two  or  three  Railroad  Routes  from 
Albany  and  Troy  to  Ballston  Spa  and  Saratoga  Springfl. 

1st.  From  Albany  via  Schenectady,  on  the  Mohawk 
nnd  Hudson  Railroad,  and  the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady 
Railroad,  termmatins?  at  the  villoge  of  Saratoga  Springs. 
Total  distance,  37  miles. 

2d.  From  Troy,  on  the  Schenectady  and  Troy  Railroad, 
20  miles;  thence  hy  railroad  to  Saratoga  Springs,  a  fur- 
ther distance  of  21  miles. 

3d.  From  Troy,  on  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Rail' 
road,  terminating  at  Bullston  Spn,  a  distance  of  24  miles, 
there  unitins;  with  the  railroad  extending  from  Schenec* 
tady  to  Saratoga  Springs.  The  above  railroads  afford 
the  traveller  a  choice  of  several  interesting  routes. 
There  beins:  little  difference  of  time  and  expense,  it  is 
well  for  the  tourist  to  go  by  one  route,  and  return  by 
another — thus  changing  the  scenery. 


ROUTES    FROM    ALBANY    AND   TROY  TO 
MONTREAL  AND  QUEBEC. 

There  are  several  routes  and  modes  of  conveyance,  dur- 
ing  the  summer  season,  to  Canada,  via  Lake  Champlain< 

1st.  By  Railroad  and  Stage,  via  Saratoga  Springs  and 
Glen's  Falls,  or  by  San  ly  Hill  to  Whitehall. 

2d.  By  Railroad  and  Canal,  via  Troy  i.n\  Mechanics* 
ville  ;  or  from  \lbany  by  Canal  Packet  Boat. 

31.  By  Stage,  via  Troy,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Hudson  ; 
oil  connecting;  with  commodious  steamboats  at  Whitehall, 


90 


TOUR    TO    TIIU    SPRINGS,    ETC. 


I 


a  distance  of  72  miles  from  Albany.  To  St.  John's,  Cann. 
da,  is  a  further  distance  of  157  miles,  through  Lake 
Champlnin  by  steamboat.  A  railroad  15  miles  long 
extends  from  St.  John's  to  La  Prairie  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence; and  thence  a  steamboat  runs  to  Montreal,  a  further 
distance  of  9  miles. 

In  going  by  the  first  route,  through  Saratoga  Springs, 
the  traveller  has  a  choice  of  passing  direct  to  Whitehall 
through  Sandy  Hill,  or  diverging  to  Glen's  Falls,  and 
thence  to  Caldwell,  situated  at  the  head  of  Lake  George, 
or  Horicon,  where  will  be  found  a  favorite  public 
house.  Passengers  are  then  carried  over  the  above 
charming  piece  of  water  in  a  steamboat,  to  the  foot  of 
the  lake,  36  miles^  thence  by  stage,  4  miles  further,  to 
the  landing  at  Fort  Ticonderoga  on  Loke  Charoplain, 
where  is  delightfully  situated  a  well  kept  public  house. 
This  is  by  far  the  most  romantic  and  picturesque  route, 
aifording  the  traveller  an  opportunity  to  visit  many  points 
of  great  interest,  connected  with  stirring  events,  recorded 
in  the  history  of  the  old  French  and  Revolutionary  wars. 

The  route  by  railroad  and  canal  packets,  is  considerei' 
the  most  expeditious  and  pleasant,  as  r.  gards  comfort  ; 
passing  through  the  villages  of  Waterford,  Mechanics* 
ville  and  Stillwater,  (by  Bemus'  Heights,  and  battle 
ground,  where  Burgoyne  surrendfred  to  the  American 
army  under  Gen.  Gates,  Oct.  17,  1777,)  Schuylerville, 
Fort  Miller,  Fort  Edward  and  Fort  Ann,  to  the  village  of 
Whitehall ;  being  most  of  the  way  in  sight  of  the  beau- 
tiful Hudson,  skirted  by  scenery  of  the  most  enchanting 
character. 

At  Mechanicsville,  12  mi?es  north  of  the  city  of 
Troy,  is  the  place  where  the  cars  running  on  the  Rens- 
selaer and  Saratoga  Railroad  unite  with  passenger  boats 
plying  to  Whitehall,  during  the  season  of  navigation. 


,,.,  .-.r.*iii..-^r.'; 


TOUIl    TO    THE    SPniNOB,    ETC. 


ty  of 
Lens* 
Iboats 
In. 


The  viUagc  of  Stillwater,  is  an  old  and  quiet  settle< 
incnt,  4  miles  further  north.  It  was  incorporated  in 
ISIG,  and  now  contains  400  or  500  inhabitants.  In  the 
north  part  of  this  town,  is  situated  the  battle  ground 
where  Gen.  Burgoyne  was  defeated  by  the  American  army 
under  General  Gates  in  1777. 


THE  CAPTURE  OF  BURGOYNE. 

The  place  at  which  we  have  now  arrived  recalls 
one  of  the  most  important  events  of  the  Revolutionary 
war,  and  a  brief  notice  of  the  principal  incidents  which 
prece  led  and  accompanied  the  surrender  of  Gen.  Burgoyne 
and  his  army,  may  not  be  unacceptable  to  the  tourist 
whom  we  have  undertaken  to  guide. 

The  army  of  Burgoyne  was  probably  the  best  equipped 
and  most  effective  force  brought  into  the  field  by  the 
enemy  for  a  specific  object,  during  the  whole  contest;  and 
its  fate  was  mainly  decided  by  two  battles  fought  on 
very  nearly  the  same  ground,  one  on  the  19th  Septem* 
ber,  and  the  other  on  the  7th  of  October,  1777.  The 
battle  ground  was  on  Bemus'  Heights,  about  two  miles 
from  the  Hudson  river,  in  the  town  of  Stillwater. 

The  battle  of  Sfept.  19th,  was  brought  on  accidentally 
rather  than  by  design,  originating  in  a  skirmish  between 
two  advanced  parties  in  a  cleared  field  vurrounded  by  the 
primitive  forest,  and  known  as  Freeman's  Farm.  A 
small  house  in  this  clearing  was  occupied  by  a  picket- 
guard  of  the  British  army,  which  lay  to  the  north.  A 
small  party,  detached  from  Col.  Morgan's  Rifle  Corps,  as 
the  American  army  was  advancing  toward  the  enemy, 
fell  in  with  the  party  posted  in  the  house,  attacked  and 
drove  them  from  it,  and  in  pursuing  them  came  unex- 
pectedly upon  the  main  body  of  the  enemy,  by  whom  a 
part  of  their  number  were  captured,  and  the  rest  dis- 


TOUR    TO    TUB    BPni!f08,    ETC. 


P 


I 


I 


perseJ.  This  occurred  a  little  past  noon,  [n  about  an 
hour  the  fighting  was  partially  rcneweil,  but  the  action 
did  not  become  general  till  about  3  o'clock,  when  it  com- 
menced  in  corneat,  and  raged  till  night,  both  in  the  woodt 
and  in  the  clearing,  the  latter  being  the  scene  of  the 
greatest  slaughter.  The  battle  was  a  very  bloody  one. 
The  liritish  forces  kept  their  station  in  the  rear  of  the 
clearing;  and  the  Americans  returned  to  their  camp  a  lit* 
tie  to  the  south.  Burgoync  claimed  a  victory,  but  his 
loss,  between  five  and  six  hundred,  was  nearly  double  that 
of  the  Americans,  and  the  relative  circumstances  of  the 
two  armies  rendered  his  loss  proportionately  still  more 
severe. 

The  battle  of  October  7th,  may  be  said,  speaking  in 
general  terms,  to  have  been  fought  on  the  same  field  as 
the  former,  but  it  covered  more  ground.  It  was  brought 
on,  (says  Professor  Silliinan,  in  his  "Tour."  published 
in  1820,  where  these  battles  and  the  incidents  connected 
with,  are  very  fully  recounted,)  by  a  movement  of  Gen. 
Burgoync,  who  ordered  a  body  of  1,500  men  with  ten 
pieces  of  cannon  to  the  right  of  his  own  line,  with  the 
view  of  forcing  the  left  wing  of  the  American  army  and 
covering  a  foraging  party  in  that  direction.  This  occur- 
red about  the  middle  of  the  afternoon;  and  the  Ameri- 
cans, though  destitute  of  artillery,  promptly  commenced 
the  attack,  and  the  battle  soon  extended  along  the  whole 
line.  "  After  a  sanguinary  contest  of  less  than  an  hour, 
the  discomfiture  and  retreat  of  the  British,  became  gene- 
ral; and  they  had  scarcely  regained  their  camp  when  their 
lines  were  stormed  with  the  greatest  fury,  and  part  of 
Lord  Balcarras'  camp  was  for  a  short  time  in  our  pos- 
session." 

The  entrenchments  of  the  German  reserve,  under  Col. 
Breyman,  were  also  stormed,   the  Colonel  killed,  and 


.1 


TOUR    TO    TUB    BPRINOS,    ETC. 


03 


hts  troops  forceJ  to  abanJon  their  position  with  Rrent  lost 
both  of  kille  1  nn  I  prisoners  ;  ani  had  not  the  night  put 
ftn  end  to  the  fighting;,  the  whole  British  army  would 
hove  been  overwhelmed  in  their  entrenchments. 

But  though  the  coming  on  of  night  saved  the  enemy 
from  further  slaughter,  yet  the  battle  wns  decisive  That 
same  night  the  British  abandoned  their  position,  retired 
to  their  works  on  the  heights,  and  on  the  succeeding 
night,  leaving  their  camp  fires  lighted  and  various  tents 
standing,  commenced  a  further  retreat  with  the  utmost  prac- 
ticable secrecy.  The  heavy  rains  and  the  deep  roads  so 
embarrassed  their  movements  that  they  did  not  reach 
their  last  station,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Fishkill  creek 
till  the  morning  of  October  10th.  There,  on  the  high 
ground  overlooking  the  meadows  bordering  the  river,  they 
took  up  their  final  position.  They  were  speedily  followed 
by  Gen.  Gates,  whose  forces  were  now  greatly  superior 
in  numbers  and  were  so  advantageously  disposed  as  to 
render  further  retreat  by  the  British  impossible,  whose 
position,  moreover,  was  completely  commanded  by  the 
Americans.  "  Every  partof  the  camp  of  the  royal  army," 
gays  Silliman,  "  was  exposed  not  only  to  cannon  balls, 
but  to  rifle  shot;  not  a  single  place  of  safely  could  be  found. 
Even  access  to  the  river  was  very  hazardous,  and  the  ar- 
my  was  soon  distressed  for  want  of  water." 

In  this  exposed  and  hopeless  situation  the  British  con* 
tinued  six  days  longer,  when  hostilities  were  terminated 
by  the  surrender  of  the  whole  army.  The  articles  of 
capitulation  were  executed  on  the  16lh,  and  the  surren- 
der took  place  on  the  next  day — October  17th,  1777. 

The  ground  on  which  Gen.  Burgoyne  delivered  himself 
and  his  associates  in  command  to  Gen.  Gates,  was  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Fishkill  creek,  near  where  now  stands 
the  village  of  Schuylerville.    Gen.  Wilkinson,  an  aid  of 


\ 


«* 


* 


H 


TPUR    TO    THE    SPRINGS,    ETC. 


Geni.  GateS)  and  an  eye* witness  of  the  scene,  describes  it 
as  follows: 

"  Early  in  the  morning  of  the  17th.  I  visiteil  Gen. 
Burgoyne  in  his  camp,  and  accompanied  him  to  the 
ground  where  his  army  were  to  lay  down  their  arms, 
from  whence  he  rode  to  the  hank  of  the  Hudson  river, 
which  he  surveyed  \\ith  attention  and  asked  me  whether 
it  was  not  fordable.  '  Certainly,  sirj  but  do  you  observe 
the  people  on  the  opposite  shore?'  'Yes,  (replied  he,) 
'  I  have  seen  them  too  long.'  He  then  proposed  to  be 
introduced  to  Gen.  Gates,  and  we  crossed  the  Fishkill  and 
proceeded  to  head-quarters,  Gen.  Burgoyne  in  front,  with 
his  Adjutant-General  Kingston,  and  his  aids  Captain 
Lord  Petershaai,  and  Lieutenant  Wilford  behind  him. 
Then  followed  Maj.  Gen.  Phillips,  the  Baron  Reidesel, 
and  the  other  general  officers  and  their  suites,  according 
to  rank. 

"  Gen.  Gates,  advised  of  Burgoyne's  approach,  met  him 
at  the  head  of  his  camp,  Burgoyne  in  a  rich  royal  uni> 
form,  and  Gates  in  a  plain  blue  frock.  When  they  had 
approached  nearly  within  sword's  length,  they  reined  up 
and  halted.  I  then  named  the  gentlemen,  and  Gen.  Bur* 
gone  raising  his  hat  gracefully  said — '  The  fortune  of 
war,  Gen.  Gates,  has  made  me  your  prisoner;'  to  which 
the  conqueror,  returning  a  courtly  salute,  promptly  re* 
plied,  '  I  shall  always  be  ready  to  bear  testimony  that 
it  has  not  been  throujjh  any  fault  of  your  Excellency.' 

•'  Maj.  Gen  Phillips  then  advanced,  and  he  and  Gen. 
Gates  saluted  and  shook  hands  with  the  familiarity  of  old 
acquaintances.  The  Baron  Reidesel  and  the  other  officers 
were  introduced  in  their  turn." 

The  ground  on  which  the  captured  troops  piled  their 
arms,  was  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Fishkill  near  its  con* 
fiuence  with  the  Hudson.    It  is  34  miles  from  Albany, 


it 


TOUR    TO    THE    SPRINGS,    ETC. 


95 


and  11  miles  above  Stillwater  village,  and  10  miles  east  of 
Saratoga  Springs. 

The  severest  individual  loss  of  the  British  during  the 
severe  and  bloody  struggle  between  these  two  armies, 
^ft  was  in  the  person  of  Gen.  Frazier,  who  was  shot  by  one 
of  Morgan's  riflemen  posted  in  a  tree,  in  the  battle  of 
October  7th.  lie  was  buried  the  next  morning  within 
the  principal  reJoubt  on  the  heights.  Mr.  Silliman  states 
en  a  visit  to  the  spot,  in  1797,  he  found  the  grave  still 
visible,  with  a  slight  enclosure  round  it,  but  that  subse* 
quently  the  remains  v. ere  removed  to  their  native  land. 
He  was  an  accomplished  and  gallant  officer,  possessing 
the  entire  confidence  and  good-will  of  the  army  and 
greatly  respected  and  beloved  by  his  associates.  The 
circumstances  connected  with  his  death  and  burial;  the 
capture  of  Major  Ackland,  of  the  British  Grenadiers, 
who  was  disabled  by  a  severe  wound  and  taken  prisoner 
in  the  same  battle;  the  heroic  fortitude  of  his  wife,  lady 
Harriet  Acklani,  and  of  the  Baroness  Reidesel,  in  the 
various  scenes  of  peril  and  suffering  through  which  they 
passed;  and  the  kindness  and  courtesy  with  which  they 
were  treated  by  t'^e  victors,  particularly  by  Gen.  Schuy- 
ler and  his  family,  and  which  gave  additonal  lustre  to  the 
victor)'',  all  these  incidents  have  imparted  to  the  principal 
events  of  this  scene  a  degree  of  romantic  interest  with 
which  few  others,  if  any  of  the  military  occurrences  of 
that  war  are  invested. 

A  visit  to  the  battle  grounds  has  become  a  favorite 
excursion  to  travellers,  and  by  visiters  sojourning  at 
the  Springs,  during  the  summer  months. 


Bai.t.ston  Spa,  12  miles  northwest  of  Mechanicsville, 
is  an  old  and  celebrated  watering  place.  It  is  situated 
in  a  valley  near  the  Kayaderosseras  creek,  30  milfi« 
north  of  the  city  of  Albany,  and  24  miles  from  Troy,  by 


96 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


lU 


Ml 


'y> 


.;;■  I 


railroad.  It  was  incorporated  in  1S07,  and  now  contains 
about  1,500  inhabitants,  a  court-house  and  jail,  1  Presby* 
terian,  1  Episcopal,  1  Baptist,  and  1  Methodist  church; 
1  banking  house,  6  hotels  and  taverns,  and  several  pri- 
vate boarding  houses  for  visiters  during  the  summer 
months.  The  oldest  and  still  the  most  esteemed  foun* 
tain,  is  known  as  the  "  public  uell,"  en  ilie  flat  west  of 
the  centre  of  the  village.  It  is  said  to  have  been  first  dis- 
covered by  the  whites,  in  1769,  during  the  survey  and  par- 
tition of  the  Kayaderosseras  patent.  It  issues  from  a  bed 
of  stiff  blue  clay  and  gravel.  Besides  the  above,  there  are 
several  other  springs  of  less  note,  possessing  medicinal 
properties  of  a  similar  character. 

The  Sans  Souci  Hotel  at  this  place,  erected  by  the  late 
Nichlas  Low,  Esq.,  in  1803,  is  an  old  and  popular  board- 
ing house>  delightfully  situated  near  the  centre  of  the 
village.  It  is  often  thronged  during  the  summer  months 
with  visiters  from  every  section  of  the  United  States  and 
Europe. 

The  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railroad  terminates  at 
this  place,  where  it  unites  with  the  Saratoga  and  Sche- 
nectady Railroad,  thus  affording  a  speedy  communica- 
tion with  the  cities  of  Schenectady,  Troy  and  Albany, 
and  with  Saratoga  Springs,  6^  miles  north  of  Ballston  Spa. 

The  village  of  Saratoga  Spuings,  pleasantly  situated 
on  a  plain,  surrounded  in  part  by  a  beautiful  grove  of  pine 
trees,  is  the  most  notel  watering  place  in  the  Union,  the 
mineral  springs,  possessing  great  medicinal  properties, 
vary  somewhat  in  their  analyses.  It  is  built  chiefly  on 
one  broad  street,  and  the  numerous  large  hotels  and 
houses  for  the  accommoJation  of  visiters,  give  it  an  im- 
posing appearance,  particularly  when  thronged  with  com- 
pany, as  it  usually  is  during  the  summer  months.  It  was 
^icorporateJ  in   1816,    and  now  contains    about  2,500 


h' 


SARATOGA    BPRrNGS. 


97 


inhabitants,  300  dwelling  houses,  one  Presbyterian,  one 
Episcopal,  one  Baptist,  one  Methodist,  one  Universalis! 
and  one  Roman  Catholk  churck  ;  one  mutual  insurance 
company,  an  incorporated  ocademy,  a  female  seminary 
and  several  select  schools  ;  the  Young  Men's  AssociatioUi 
a  new  and  popular  chartered  institution,  numbering  about 
150  members  ;  35  stores  of  diilerent  kinds ;  2  iron  foun- 
dries, 1  machine  shop,  an  extensive  carriage  manufac- 
tory, and  3  printing  offices,  besides  many  other  kinds  of 
mechanic  work  shops. 

The  hotels  and  boarding  houses  are  numerous,  and 
many  of  them  fitted  up  on  a  large  and  magnificent  scale, 
unsurpassed  by  any  similar  establishments  in  the  Union. 
The  United  States  Hotel,  situated  near  the  railroad  depot, 
is  a  large  four  story  brick  edifice,  furnishing  aecommoda- 
lions  for  400  guests  ;  the  location  is  central,  and  within  a 
short  distance  of  all  the  principal  mineral  si>rings.  Con- 
gress Halt,  and  Union  Hall,  are  both  old  and  popular  es- 
tablishments, situated  on  the  south  of  the  village  near  the 
Congress  Spring.  The  Jlmerican  Hotel  is  a  new  house 
built  of  brick,  in  the  centre  of  the  village.  It  is  well 
furnished,  and  is  kept  open  through  the  year,  affording 
good  accommodations  both  in  winter  and  summer.  The 
Columbian  Hotel,  Montgomery  Hall,  ani  Melphi  Hotel, 
are  all  well  kept  public  houses,  and  remain  open  for  the 
accommodation  of  visiters  during  the  whole  year.  The 
Washington  Hall,  Railroad  House,  Eagle  Hotel,  Tempe- 
rance Hotel,  Congress  Spring  Temperance  House,  Har- 
mony Hall,  New  England  Hall,  and  Prospect  Mansion 
House,  besides  some  20  or  30  private  boarding  houses, 
also  accommodate  visiters.  There  are  several  public 
bathing  houses  near  the  springs,  where  cold  and  warm 
water  and  shower  baths  can  at  all  times  be  obtained. 

The  railroads  afford  a  speedy  communication  between 
the  Springs  and  the  cities  of  Albany,  Schenectady,  and 


li* 


98 


SARATOGA     SPRINGS. 


Troy.  The  Saratoga  nnd  Washington  Railroad,  when 
completed,  is  to  extend  IVom  Saratoga  Springs  to  White, 
hall,  a  distance  of  40  miles.  Stages  now  run  from  the 
Springs  to  Glen's  Falls  and  Caldwell's,  as  well  as  to  San* 
dy  Hill,  Dunham's  Basin,  and  Whitehall. 

The  celebrated  Mineral  Waters,  which  arc  the  great 
cause  of  attraction  to  this  place,  require  a  particular  des* 
cription.  At  what  precise  period  these  springs  were  first 
discovered,  cannot  now  with  any  degree  of  certainty  be 
ascertained  As  early  ns  1773,  a  settlement  was  made 
here,  a  little  west  of  the  High  Rock  Spring,  for  the  dou- 
ble purpose  of  trading  with  the  Indians,  and  accommo* 
dating  invalids.  The  High  Rock  and  Flat  Rock  were  the 
ooly  springs  at  that  time  known.  The  Congress  Spring 
was  first  discovered  in  1792.  There  are  now  within  the 
distance  of  about  half  a  mile,  some  10  or  12  important 
mineral  fountains,  flowing  to  the  surface,  and  most  of 
them  located  near  the  margin  of  a  brook  which  runs 
through  the  village  on  the  cast.  Congress  Spring,  Wash- 
ington Spring,  Putnam's  Spring,  Pavilion  Springs,  Io- 
dine Spring,  Hamilton  Spring,  and  the  Flat  Rock  and 
High  Rock  Springs,  may  be  named  as  the  most  valuable 
for  their  medicinal  properties,  and  as  objects  of  curiosity. 
A  cluster  of  mineral  springs  known  as  the  **  Ten  Springs," 
are  situated  about  one  mile  east  of  the  village.  The  most 
celebrated  of  these  springs  is  known  as  the  Union  Spring; 
in  the  vicinity  of  which  is  the  Mansion  House,  a  well 
kept  summer  establishment.  Large  quantities  of  these 
waters  are  annually  exported  to  different  parts  of  the 
country,  affording  a  handsome  income  to  the  several 
owners,  most  of  them  being  private  property,  although 
no  charge  is  made  to  visiters,  other  than  what  they  vol- 
untarily give  to  those  who  are  employed  to  wait  on  them. 


1(1,  when 
to  While. 
iVom  the 
IS  to  8an> 

he  great 

:ular  des* 

Acre  first 

tainty  be 

I'os  made 

the  dou- 

ccommo- 

were  the 

3S  Spring 

ithin  the 

mportant 

most  of 

ich   runs 

Wash- 

ngs,  lo- 

ock  and 

I'aluable 

uriosity. 

prings." 

lie  most 

Spring  j 

.  a  well 

)f  these 

I  of  the 

several 

though 

ey  vol- 

them . 


SARATOGA     SPUINOH.  0# 

The  following  arc  analyses  of  some  of  the  principal 
Springs  of  Saratoga. 

CoNORKss  Spring. — From  experiments  and  deductions 
by  Dr.  Steel,  one  gallon,  or  231  cubic  inches  of  the  wa- 
ter of  the  Congress  Spring,  is  found  to  contain  the  fol- 
lowing substances,  viz  : 

Grainif. 

Chloride  of  Soilium,  (sea  salt) 3S5.000 

llydriodnte  of  Soda, 3.500 

IJi-carbonate  of  "     8.9S2 

"  of  Magnesia 95.788 

Carbonate  of  F.iine, 98 .098 

"  of  Iron, 5.076 

Silex,   1.500' 

llydro-bromate  of  Potash,  a  trace, 

Total  grains, 597.943 

Carbonic  acid  gas,  cubic  inches, 311 

Atmospheric  air, 7 

Gaseotts  contents, 318 

Washington  SpniNO,  is  situated  in  a  southwest  di- 
rection from  Congress  Spring.  It  is  a  sparkling  acidu- 
lous water ;  its  temperature  is  50  degress,  and  one  gallon 

of  it  affords  the  following  articles,  viz : 

Graina. 

Chloride  of  sodium, 2S1.50 

Bi-carbonate  of  Soda. 16.50 

"             of  Magnesia, 40.92 

Carbonate  of  Lime, ■ 92.60 

"         of  Iron 3.25 

Silex, 1 .  50 

Hydriodate  of  Soda, 2.76 

Solid  contents  in  a  gallon, 439 . 02 

Carbonic  acid  gas,  cubic  inches, 262.50 

Atmospheric  air, 6.80 

Gaseous  contents  in  a  gallon, 269.30 


100 


SARATOGA     BPRING8. 


Putnam's  Congress  Spring,  is  locnted  a  few  rods 

east  of  the  United  States  Hotel.     Tlie  following  is  an 

analysis   taken   by  James   R.  Chilton,  M.   D.   of  New- 

York  city.     One  gallon  of  water  contains  the  following 

ingredients,  viz  : 

Grains. 

Chloride  of  Sodium 214.00 

Carbonate  of  Soda, 14.32 

•'          of  Lime, 68.80 

Iodide  of  Sodium,  with  a  trace  of  Bromide  of 

Potassium, 2.00 

Phosi>hate  of  Lime, .21 

Sulphate  of  Soda, 1.68 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 51 .60 

"          of  Iron, 7.00 

Silicia, .84 

Alumina, .56 

Total, 361.01 

Corbonic  acid,  cubic  inches, 341.83 

Atmospheric  air, 6.04 

Total, 347 .  92 

The  gases  were  obtained  and  analyzed  at  the  Spring, 
the  temperature  of  the  water  being  51°  Fahrenheit,  in 
July. 

Pavilion  Fountain.  This  celebrated  medicinal  foun- 
tain rises  in  a  valley  near  the  Pavilion  Hotel,  [destroyed 
by  fire  in  1843,]  and  was  tubed  up  from  a  depth  of  Ibrty 
feet,  in  May,  1840,  after  incredible  labor  and  expense 
The  great  curiosity  it  excited,  and  the  crowds  which  it 
daily  attracted,  induced  the  proprietors  to  have  the  same 
analyzed  in  August  following,  when  one  gallon  of  water 
was  found  to  contain  these  constituents,  viz  : 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


101 


Grain*. 

Chloride  of  Sodium, 226.58 

Carbonate  of  Mn°;nesia, 62-50 

of  Lime 60.24 

4.70 

3.10 


(< 


Carbonnte  of  Soda,. 

Oxide  of  Iron, 

Iodide  of  Sodium, > 

Bromide  of  Potassium,    ^ 

Silica,    

Alumina, 


2.75 

.62 
.25 


Total,   361.74 


Carbonic  acid  c:as,. 480.01 

Atmospheric  air, 8 .  09 

Cubic  inches, 488. 10 

The  quantity  of  ^as  which  evolves  from  the  Pavilion 
Fountain  is  double  its  volume  of  water  ;  which  foct  ren- 
ders it  an  object  of  great  curiosity,  and  increases  its  me- 
dicinal properties. 

Iodine  Spring,  is  a  new  fountain,  located  a  few  rods 
north  of  the  celebrated  High  Rock  Spring.  According  to 
an  analysis  of  Professor  Emmons,  of  the  Medical  Col- 
lege in  Albany,  one  gallon  of  this  water  contains  the  fol- 
lowing  ingredients  :  Grains. 

Muriate  of  Soda 187 

Carbonate  of  Lime, 26 

Iron. 1 

Magnesia, 75 

SoJa 2 

Hydriodato  of  Soda  or  Iodine, 34 


ic 


Total, 294i 


Carbonic  acid  gas,  (  water  bottled  three  weeks,). 
Atmospheric  air, 


330 
4 


Cubic  inches, 334 

The  freedom  of  this  water  from  iron  is  truly  remarka* 
ble,  and  as  Professor  E.  remarks,  "  supplies  a  dcsidera> 


102 


SARATOGA     SPRINGS. 


turn  vvliich  has  been  long  wanting,  viz  :  a  water  which 
may  be  drank  by  a  certain  class  of  invalids  to  whom  iron 
proves  a  decided  injury. 

Union  Spuing,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  of  the 
"Ten  Springs:"  analyzed  in  1841,  by  James  R.  Chil- 
ton, M.  D.  One  gallon  of  this  water  contains  the  fol- 
lowing ingredients  :  Grains. 

Chloride  of  Sodium 243.620 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia, 84  ■  265 

*•           Lime, 41.600 

"           Soda 12.800 

*'           Iron, 5.452 

Iodide  of  Sodium , 3 . 600 

A  truce  of  Bromide  of  Potassium,  Silica   and 

Alumina, 1 .  570 

Total,! 392.907 

Carbonic  acid  gas,  (from  water  bottled  four 

weeks,)   314.16 

Atmospheric  air, 4 . 62 

Cubic  inches, 318.78 


Saratoga  Lakk,  lying  in  Saratoga  county,  is  a  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water,  4  miles  southeast  of  the  village  of 
Saratoga  Springs,  and  5  miles  east  of  Ballston  Spa  :  it 
is  9  miles  long  and  about  2  miles  wide.  This  lake  is 
much  resorted  to  during  the  summer  months  by  parties  ol 
pleasure,  and  it  is  stored  with  pike,  pickerel,  perch  and 
other  fish.  The  shores  abound  with  game,  and  with  the 
lake,  afford  ample  sport  to  the  huntsman  and  angler. 

On  leaving  Saratoga  Springs  for  the  north,  the  travel- 
ler is  conveyed  by  stage  to  Glen's  Falls  and  Caldwell, 
or  to  Whitehall,  via  Sandy  Hill,  or  Dunham's  Basin  ; 
at  the  latter  place  the  stage  line  connects  with  canal 
packet  boats  running  from  Albany  and  Troy,  to  Whitehall. 


TOUR    TO    LAKE  GROnCK,    ETC. 


103 


The  village  of  Glen's  Falls,  on  the  Hudson,  18  miles 
north  of  Saratoga  Springs,  is  a  place  of  great  interest. 
The  falls  in  the  river  at  this  point  have  a  total  de* 
scent  of  about  50  feet,  are  varied  ami  picturesque,  and  af- 
ford hydraulic  power  to  a  vast  extent,  which  is  yet  but 
partially  used  for  manufacturing  purposes.  A  new  and 
substantial  bridge,  about  500  feet  long,  has  been  erected 
here  on  the  site  of  the  old  one.  It  is  a  free  bridge  and 
affords  a  favorable  view  of  the  falls  and  river.  The 
Champluin  canal  feeder  passes  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river  at  this  place,  receiving  its  waters  from  the  Hudson, 
two  miles  above  the  village,  and  uniting  with  the  Cham* 
plain  canal  a  few  miles  east  of  Sandy  Hill,  affording  a 
navigable  communication  with  Luke  Champlain,  and  the 
tide  waters  of  the  Hudson  river. 

This  village  was  incorporated  in  1839,  and  now  con- 
tains about  1,800  inhabiiants,  225  dwelling  houses,  one 
Presbyterian,  one  Baptist,  and  one  Methodist  church  ; 
an  incorporated  academy,  and  a  female  seminary  ;  four 
hotels  and  taverns  ;  thirty  stores  and  groceries  ;  one  grist 
mill,  four  extensive  saw-mills,  including  three  gang  mills 
of  twenty-five  saws  each,  and  four  English  mills  four 
marble  mills,  containing  275  saws  j  one  plaster  mill,  one 
furnace,  three  machine  shops,  one  marble  polishing  and 
chimney  piece  manufactory,  two  tanneries,  and  three  ex- 
tensive establishments  for  making  lime.  On  both  sides 
of  the  river  at  this  place  are  extensive  beds  of  black  mar- 
ble, which  for  beauty  of  color  and  brilliancy  of  polish, 
are  not  exceeded  in  this  country.  From  this  marble,  lime 
also  is  made  of  a  superior  quality.  Below  the  falls,  na- 
ture has  exposed  the  strata  in  such  a  way  that  the  thick- 
ness of  the  several  layers  can  be  examined  to  the  depth 
of  at  least  70  feet. 


1= 


..♦-awfifnii  ii*v>  i^fwan 


•il 


104 


TOUR   TO  LAKB    CKOllGK,    ETC. 


The  principal  hotel  at  Glen's  Fulls,  where  the  sta^e 
■sually  stops  for  passcnscrs  to  dine,  has  long  been  ce!e> 
bratcJ  for  its  delicious  bill  of  fare. 

The  road  from  this  place  to  Caldwell,  at  the  head  of 
Lake  George,  a  distance  of  9  miles,  passes  over  a  wild 
and  romantic  region  of  country,  connected  with  stirring 
events  in  the  Revolutionary  and  old  French  wars,  which 
make  it  classic  ground.  Be/ore  reaching  Lake  George 
you  pass  the  "  Bloody  Pond,'^  near  which  in  September, 
1755.  about  1,000  English  and  French  were  killed,  and 
their  bodies  thrown  into  this  pond,  which  now  presents 
a  wild  and  gloomy  appearance. 

The  village  of  Caldwell  is  delightfully  situated  at  the 
southwest  end  of  Lake  George,  62  miles  north  of  the 
city  of  Albany.  It  contains  about  200  inhabitants,  35 
dwelling  houses,  a  court-house  and  jail,  a  county  clerk's 
office,  one  church,  four  hotels  nnd  taverns,  two  stores, 
one  gristmill,  one  saw-mill,  and  a  piaster  mill,  situated 
on  Mill  brook.  In  the  vicinity  of  this  place,  near  the 
south  end  of  the  Lake,  is  situated  the  site  of  old  Fort 
William  Henry,  and  a  short  distance  beyond,  the  ruins 
of  Fort  George  ;  still  further  south  are  the  ruins  of  Fort 
Gage  ;  all  of  which  are  associated  with  the  early  history 
of  this  part  of  the  country  both  in  peace  and  war.  The 
Lake  House,  at  tliis  place  is  a  well  kept  hotel,  and  is 
much  resorted  to  during  warm  weather.  It  is  a  delight- 
ful summer  retreat,  where  are  to  be  found  desirable  accom- 
modations for  fishing  parties  and  parlies  of  pleasure. — 
The  steamer  William  Caldwell,  plies  regularly  between 
Caldwell  and  the  outlet  of  the  lake  at  Ticonderoga,  a 
distance  of  36  miles  ;  stages  then  transport  passengers  a 
distance  of  4  miles  from  the  landing  on  Lake  George,  to  the 
steamboat  landing  on  Lake  Champlain  ;  affording  one  of 
the  most  picturesque  and  romantic  excursions  imaginable. 


LAKK  GEOROB. 


105 


the  8tas;e 
been  cele* 

»  head  of 
^er  a  wild 
h  stirring 
rs,  which 
ce  George 
eptember, 
illed,  and 
1  presents 

ited  at  the 
>rth  of  the 
)itants,  35 
nty  clerk's 
Avo  stores, 


,  situated 

near  the 

old  Fori 

the  ruins 

is  of  Farl 

ily  history 

ar.    The 

|l,   and  is 

delight- 

Meaccom- 

?asure.— 

between 

leroga,  a 

Renj;ers  a 

|ge,  to  the 

»g  one  of 

iginable. 


Lake  George,  or  Ilonicoy,  is  justly  celebrated  for  itp 
varied,  romantic  and  beautiful  scenery,  and  for  the  trans- 
parency and   j»urity  of  its   waters.     It   is  36  miles  long, 
north  and  south,  and  from  two  to  three  miles  wide ;  and 
is  elevated  243  feet  above  the  tide  water  of  the  Hudson, 
although  its  waters  flow  north  into  Lake  Chomplain.     It 
is  surrounded  by   high  and   picturesque  hills,  sometimes 
rising  to  mountain  height — and  dotted   with   numerous 
islands,  said  to  count  as  many  as  there  are  days  in  the 
year  ;  some   are  of  considerable   size,  and   cultivated  } 
while  others  are  only  a  barren  rock,  rising  majestically 
out  of  the   surrounding  waters.     Diamond  Island,  near 
the  village   of  Caldwell,  is   celebrated  for  its  beautiful 
quartz  crystals,  which  in  shape  and   brilliancy  resemble 
pure  diamonds.     The  wild  and  romantic  scenery  of  this 
lake  is  no  where  surpassed.     The  bed  of  the   lake  is  a 
handsome  yellowish  sand,  and  the  water  is  so  pure  and 
transparent,  as  to  render  the  bottom  visible  from  30  to 
40  feet.     Here   the  delicious   salmon  trout,  that  weigh 
from  5  to  20  pounds,  are  found   in  great  numbers  and 
of  the   finest  quality.     Silver   trout,  brook  trout,  pike, 
pickerel,  perch,  and   several  other  kinds  of  fresh  water 
fish  are  also  abundant.     Travellers  on  the  tour  from  the 
Springs  to  Canada,  should  not  fail  to  visit  Lake  George  } 
by  the  French  called  Lac   Sacrament,  on  account  of  the 
purity  of  its   waters.     The   steamboat  "  William   Cald* 
well,"  runs  through  the  lake,  from  Caldwell  to  the  land- 
ing near  the  village  of  Ticonderoga,  whence  stages  run 
to  Fort  Ticonderoga,  at  the  steamboat  landing  on  Lake 
Champlain  ;  where   steam  passage   boats  on   their  route 
from  Whitehall   to  St.  John's,  touch   daily,  during   the 
season  of  navigation.     This  route   is  varied  in  scenery, 
and  deeply  interesting  in  historical  incidents. 

H 


F 


106 


TOUlt    TO    CANADA,     KTO. 


'i 


RouTK  vnoM  Saratoga  SmiNos  to  WiiiTriiAi.t. 

The  village  of  Sandy  Hill,  thruu^h  which  pusHCs  the 
stage  route  from  Surntogu  Springs  to  Whitehall,  is  situated 
on  clevateJ  ground  on  the  east  side  of  the  Hudson,  19 
miles  from  Saratoga  Springs,  and  50  miles  north  of  the 
city  of  Albany.  The  water  power  at  this  place  is  very 
great,  there  being  a  fall  of  about  12  feet  nt  the  upper 
part  of  the  village,  while  about  lUO  rods  below  with  a 
continuous  descent,  are  situated  Baker's  Falls,  where 
there  is  an  almost  perpendicular  fall  of  50  feet,  utfording 
hydraulic  power  to  a  great  extent,  none  of  which  is  at 
present  used  for  manufacturing  purposes. 

The  Chaniplain  canal  feeder  passes  through  this  place, 
uniting  with  the  main  canal  one  or  two  miks  east  of  the 
village,  ati'ording  canal  navigation  to  Lake  Chaniplain 
and  to  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Hudson.  The  Sara- 
toga and  Washington  Railroad,  when  completed,  wiU 
run  through  Sandy  Hill,  from  Saratoga  .Springs  to  White- 
hall, a  distance  of  40  miles. 

A  daily  line  of  stages  run  during  the  summer  months 
from  Saratoga  Springs  to  Dunham's  Basin,  2  miles  eaut 
of  Sandy  Hill,  on  the  Champlain  Canal,  connecting  with 
canal  packets  running  from  Albany  and  Troy  to  Whitehall. 

The  V  lage  of  Fort  Edward  is  2  miles  south  of  San- 
dy Hill.  This  vicinity  having  been  celebrated  during  the 
old  French  and  Revolutionary  wars,  as  the  theatre  ol 
military  exploits  and  savage  murder,  we  subjoin  the  fol- 
lowing extract :  "  The  remains  of  ForiEdward  are  stil' 
to  be  seen  in  the  very  centre  of  the  romantic  little  village 
which  now  bears  its  name.  At  a  short  distance  north, 
the  place  's  shown  where  Miss  Jane  McCrea  was  mur- 
dered by  the  jHUftr.":.  Tradition  has  accurately  preserv- 
ed the  location  o."  *hat  most  bkody  and  most  melancholy 
deed.     She  was  on  he    w.y  to  jo.  a  an  officer  in  the  British 


TOUll    TO    OANAIi/t,      KTC. 


107 


army  to  whom  iihc  was  to  be  married.  She  committed 
herHcIf,  aRainst  the  remonstrance  of  her  CritnUs,  lo  a 
party  of  Indians  as  the  sufest  escort  in  those  times.  Th  / 
met  another  pnrty  at  this  place,  sent  by  the  anxious  and 
expectinK  hrid'^groom,  and  an  altercation  ensued  in  re- 
ference •  « tlic  p.  jmised  reward  ;  in  the  midst  of  which 
they  wercattacl  od  by  a  party  of  whites.  Whrn  the  con- 
nict  \(a^  i^vrcr  she  was  found  tomahawked  and  scalped. 
Ii  r  lover  was  overwhelmed  with  grief,  and  survived  but 
a  short  timo." 

F'>RT  Ann,  10  miles  north  of  Sandy  Hill,  is  a  place 
of  interest,  being  one  of  many  fortified  points  between 
Lake  Champlain  and  the  Hudson  river,  celebrated  in 
the  early  history  of  the  country.  The  old  fort,  of  which 
hardly  u  vestige  now  remains,  was  erected  in  1756. 

The  village  of  Whitehall,  72  miles  north  of  Albany, 
is  advantageously  situated  in  a  narrow  valley  at  the  head 
of  Lake  Champlain  ;  it  was  incorporated  in  1820,  and 
now  contains  about  2,400  inhabitants,  300  dwelling 
houses,  one  Presbyterian,  one  Episcopal,  and  one  Metho- 
dist church  ;  one  banking  house,  four  hotels,  thirty 
stores  and  groceries,  and  two  extensive  forwarding  houses; 
several  manufacturing  establishments  ;  two  ship  yards 
and  two  dry  docks,  where  are  built  and  repaired  steam- 
boats, lake  craft  and  ca sal  boats;  two  brick  yards  and 
one  tannery,  besides  almost  every  other  kind  of  mechanic 
work  sbO|)o.  Here  are  owned  2  or  3  steamborts  for  the 
vouveyance  of  passengers  and  merchandise,  and  two 
steamboats  used  as  tow  boats  ;  50  sloops  and  schooners, 
averaging  about  100  tons  burthen,  and  70  canal  boats, 
besides  others  owned  o«  ^^flerent  parts  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain, which  trade  with  an  I  pass  through  this  place. 
Two  daily  lines  of  canal  packets  leave  Whitehall  for 
Troy  and  Albany,  taifl  twc  daily  lUes  of  stages,  one  pas- 
sing on  each  side  of  the  Hudsou    river  ;  in  addition   to 


108 


TOUR    TO    CANADA,     ETC. 


which  two  daily  lines  of  stages  run  to  Saratoga  Springs 
during  the  summer  months,  connecting  with  the  railroads 
to  Troy,  Schenectady  and  Albany.  A  daily  line  of  sta«»es 
run  to  Rutland,  Vermont,  intersecting  stage  lines  running 
to  Boston,  &c.  During  the  close  of  navigation,  a  daily 
line  of  stages  run  from  here  to  Burlington  and  Montreal. 

The  passenger  steamboats  now  running  on  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  from  Whitehall  to  St.  John's,  Canada,  are  the 
Burlington,  commanded  by  Richard  W.  Sherman,  the 
Whitehall,  commanded  by  G.  Lathrop,  and  the  Saranac. 
These  boats  are  celebrated  for  the  admirable  discipline 
observed  on  board  and  for  quiet  and  comfort. 

One  of  the  above  boats  will  leave  Whitehall  daily,  at 
10  o'clock  A.  M.  during  the  season  of  navigation,  which 
usually  lasts  from  the  middle  of  April  to  the  first  of  De- 
cember. The  fare  through  to  St.  John's  is  now  reduced 
to  $3.00  for  cabin  passage. 

Lake:  Champlain,  lying  between  the  stales  of  New- 
York  and  Vermont,  extends  north  and  south  a  distance  of 
140  miles  ;  varying  from  half  a  mile  or  less,  to  10  miles 
in  width  ;  it  is  a  long,  narrow  and  deep  body  of  water, 
dotted  with  a  number  of  islands,  the  largest  of  which  be- 
long to  Vermont.  From  Whitehall  to  Crown  Point,  the 
lake  is  quite  narrow,  but  here  it  begins  to  expand,  and 
soon  becomes  3  miles  wide,  still  increasing  northward, 
until  near  Burlington,  where  it  spreads  to  its  greatest 
width.  Steamboats  of  the  first  class,  and  sloops  of  from 
50  to  100  tons  burthen  navigate  this  lake  its  whole  length, 
thence  down  the  Sorelle,  or  Richelieu  river,  its  outlet,  to 
St.  Johns,  Canada,  where  steamboat  navigation  ceases  ; 
a  total  distance  of  about  150  miles.  This  lake  is  connect- 
ed with  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Hudson,  by  means 
of  the  Champlain  canal,  which  extends  south,  a  distance 
of  63  miles;  also  by  the  Chambly  Canal,  on  the  north, 
with  the  St.  Lawrence  river.    As  you  approach  near  the 


I'OtJR    to    CANADA,     ETC. 


109 


centre  of  Lake  Champlain,  a  large  body  of  water  presents 
itself  to  view,  bordered  by  scenery  of  the  most  picturesque 
description.  The  headlands  which  are  seen  to  great  ad- 
vantage, and  the  vast  ranges  of  mountains  en  either  side, 
are  truly  grand  and  romantic.  The  highest  peak  of  the 
Green  Mountains,  called  the  **  Camel's  Rump,"  is  seen  on 
the  east,  while  the  high  rangesof  the  mountains  of  Essex! 
county,  are  seen  on  the  west.  This  latter  range  of  moun- 
tain  peaks,  the  ^idirondack  group,  contain  the  highest 
land  in  the  state  of  New- York,  rising  in  some  places  to  the 
height  of  5,000  feet  and  upwards,  richly  stored  with  iron 
ore  and  timber  of  large  growth. 

In  the  streams  which  flow  into  this  lake  are  frequent 
waterfalls  of  great  beauty  ;  and  the  fine  headlands  and 
bays  of  the  lake  itself  give  a  picturesque  charm  to  its 
shores.  Its  waters  are  stocked  with  salmon,  salmon 
trout,  sturgeon,  pickerel,  and  various  other  kinds  of  fish. 

Fort  Ticondkroga.  The  ruins  of  this  old  tbrtification 
are  situated  in  the  town  of  Ticonderogn,  Essex  Co.  on  the 
west  side  of  Lake  Champlain,  at  the  entrance  of  th**  outlet 
of  Lake  George,  24  miles  north  of  Whitehall.  TKi.^  place 
was  originally  called  Che-on-dcr-o-ga  by  the  Indians,  sig- 
nifying, in  their  language,  noise;  its  name  was  afterwards 
slightly  changed  by  the  French  into  its  present  appellation, 
which  't  has  borne  ever  since  it  was  first  occupied  and  forti- 
fied by  them  in  1756.  The  fort  was  at  first  named  Fort 
Carillion,  but  afterwards  called  Fort  Ticcnderoga,  by  the 
English  and  Americans.  This  fortification  cost  the  French 
government  a  large  sum  of  money,  and  was  considered 
very  strong  both  by  nature  and  art.  It  stands  on  a  point 
of  land,  elevated  70  feet  above  Lake  Champlain,  being 
surrounded  on  three  sides  by  water,  and  on  the  northwest 
it  was  defended  by  strong  breast  works.  Mount  Inde- 
pendence,  on  the  opposite  or  east  side  of  the  lake,  was 


■i! 


110 


TOUR    TO    CANADA,    ETC. 


also  fortified,  and   some  of  the  intrenchments  arc  still 
visible,  elevated  110  feet  above  the  lake,  and  overlook* 
ing  the  peninsula  of  Ticonderoga.     After  several  sangui- 
nary conflicts  in  this  vicinity  and  under  the  very  vt^alls  of 
the  fort,  in  which  several  thousand  lives  were  sacrificed, 
this  important  military  position  was  tamely  evacuated 
by  the  French  in  1759,  and  given  up  to  the  British  army 
under  Lord  Amherst ;  who  retained  possession  until   it 
was  taken  by  surprise  by   Col,   Ethan   Allen,   of  the 
American  army,  in  1775.  He  is  said  to  have  entered  the  fort 
through  a  subterraneous  passage  from  the  south,  extend- 
ing to  the  lake  ;  surprising  the  commandant  in  his  bed  be- 
fore he  was  aware  of  his  danger,  and  in  his  characteris- 
tic way  required  the  officer   to  surrender.     He  asked  to 
whom?    "Why,  to  Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Con- 
gress, to  be  sure  ;"  was  his  laconic  reply.     In  1777,  the 
British  army,  under  Gen.  Burgoyne,  on  their  route  to 
Saratoga,  appeared  in  array   before  Ticonderoga,  when 
Gen.  St.  Clair,  the  American  commander,  was  forced  to 
evacuate;  the  enemy  having  erected  a  battery  on  Mount 
Defiance,  in  the  rear,  elevated  720  feet  above  the  lake, 
which  overlooked  and  completely  commanded  this  forti- 
fication, which  was  before  considered  almost  impregna- 
ble ;  it  then  remained  in  the  hands  of  British  until  the 
close  of  the  war.    Since  that  time  it  has  been  sufiered  to 
go  to  decay,  and  now  presents  one  of  the  most  interesting 
ruins  of  the  kind  in  this  country,  and  is  annually  visited 
by  a  great  number  of  travellers.    Near  by,  delightfully 
situated  on  the  lake  shore,  is  a  well  kept  hotel  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  visiters.    Here  steamboats,  during  the 
season  of  navigation,  daily  land  and  receive  passengers, 
on  their  route  from  Whitehall  to  St.  John's,  Canada. 


i  It 

3  i' 


TOUR    TO    CANADA,     ETC. 


Ill 


The  following  account  of  the  defeat  of  the  British 
AT  TicoNDEROGA,  IN  1759,  is  taken  from  the  "  Memoirs 
an  American  Lady,"  written  by  Mrs.  Grant. 

"  The  army  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Abercrombie, 
crossed  Lake  George  on  the  5th  of  July,  and  landed  with- 
out opposition.  They  proceeded  in  four  columns  to  Ti- 
conderoga,  arid  dis;played  a  spectacle  unprecedented  in  the 
New  World.  An  army  of  sixteen  thousand  men,  regu- 
lars and  provincials,  with  a  train  of  artillery,  and  all  the 
necessary  provisions  for  an  active  campaign  or  regular 
siege,  followed  by  a  fleet  of  batteaux,  pontons,  &c. 
They  set  out  wrong,  however,  by  not  having  Indian  guides, 
who  are  alone  to  be  depended  on  in  such  a  place.  In  a 
short  time  the  columns  fell  in  upon  each  other,  and  oc- 
casioned much  confusion.  The  advance  guard  of  the 
French,  which  had  retired  before  them,  were  equally  be- 
wildered, and  falling  in  with  each  other  in  this  confusion, 
a  skirmish  ensued,  in  which  the  French  lost  above  three 
hundred  men,  and  the  English,  though  successful  in  this 
first  rencontre,  lost  as  much  as  it  was  possible  to  lose,  in 
one  man — for  here  it  was  that  the  valiant  Lord  Howe, 
the  second  in  command,  fell  mortally  wounded.  He  was 
shot  from  behind  a  tree,  probably  by  some  Indians  ;  and 
the  whole  army  were  inconsolable  for  a  loss  they  too  well 
knew  to  be  irreparable. 

"  The  fort  is  in  a  situation  of  peculiar  natural  strength  ; 
it  lies  on  a  little  peninsula,  with  Lake  Champlain  on  one 
side  and  a  narrow  opening  communicating  with  Lake 
George,  on  the  other.  This  garrison,  which  was  well 
prepared  for  attack,  and  almost  impregnable  from  situa- 
tion, was  defended  by  between  four  and  five  thousand 
men.  An  engineer  sent  to  reconnoitre,  was  of  opinion 
that  it  might  be  attacked  without  waiting  for  the  artillery. 
The  fatal  resolution  was  taken  without  consulting  those 
who  were  best  qnalified  to  judge. 


lis 


TOUR    TO    CANADA,    ETC. 


■W  > 


"  I  cannot  enter  into   the  dreadful  detail  of  what  fol< 
lowed.     Certainly   never  was  infatuation  equal  to  this. 
The  forty-second  regiment  was  then  in  the  height  of  de- 
served reputation,  and  commanded  by  a  veteran  of  great 
experience  and  military  skill,  Col.  Gordon  Graham,  who 
bad  the  first  point  of  attack  assigned  to  him      He  was 
wounded  at  the  first  onset,  and  of  the  survivors,  every 
officer  retired   wounded  off  the  field.     Of  the   fifty- fifth 
regiment,  ten  oflScers  were  killed,  including  all  the  field 
oflicers.     No  human  I   'ngs  could  show  more  determined 
courage  than  this  brave  army  did — standing  four  hours 
under  a  constant  discharge  of  cannon  and  musketry  from 
barricades,  on  which  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  make 
the  least  impression.     Gen.  Abercrombie  saw  the  fruit- 
less  waste  of  blood  that  was  every  hour  increasing,  and 
ordered  a  retreat,  which  was  very  precipitate  ;  so  much 
so,  that  they  crossel  the  lake,  and  regained   their  camp 
on  the  other  side,  the  same  night.    Two  thousand  men 
were  killed,  wounded,  or  taken  in  this  disastrous  engage- 
ment ;  which,  was   however,  quickly   succeeded  by  the 
dear  bought  conquest  of  Quebec,  where  fell  both  the  ri- 
val commanders,  Wolfe  and  Montcalm." 

Mount  Defiance,  about  one  mile  southwest  of  Fort  Ti- 
conderoga,  on  the  south  side  of  the  outlet  to  Lake  George, 
is  a  bold  promontory,  elevated  about  800  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  Lake.     While  the  ascent  from  the  water  or 
eastern  face  is  quite  steep  and  difficult,  the   approach 
from  the   west  is   easy.     It  was   from  this  quarter  that 
Gen.  Burgoyne,   in   1777,  ascended   this   mountain  and 
planted  several  pieces  of  artillery — obliging  the   Ameri- 
cans to  evacuate  the  fort,  which  was  before  considered  al« 
most  impregnable.     The  top  of  this   eminence  gives  a 
grand   view  of  Lake   Champlain  and  the  surrounding 
country,  and  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  which  can  easily 
be  accomplished  on  foot. 


TOUR    TO    CANADA,     ETC. 


113 


The  village  of  Ticonderoga,  two  miles  west  of 
Lake  Champlain,  is  situated  on  the  outlet  of  Lake 
George,  where  is  a  thriving  settlement,  surrounded 
by  picturesq'ie  mountain  scenery.  One  or  two  miles 
farther  west  on  the  road  to  Lake  George,  is  situated  ano- 
ther village  called  Upper  Ticonderoga  or  Alexandria. 
Here  is  a  most  beautiful  fall  of  water,  a/Tording  immense 
hydiaulic  power,  a  small  part  of  which  is  only  used  for 
propelling  machinery.  The  steamboat  landing,  at  the 
foot  of  Lake  George,  is  about  one  mile  west  of  the  latter 
place,  the  whole  distance  to  Lake  Champlain  being  four 
miles. 

Shoremam,  2  miles  from  Ticonderoga,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  lake,  is  a  regular  steamboat  landing. 

Bridport,  9   miles  further,     is  another  landing  on 
the  Vermont  shore. 

Chimney  Point,   6  miles  north  of  Bridport,   is  also 
another  landing  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake. 

Crown  Point,  18  miles  north  of  Ticonderoga,  on  the 
west  side  of  Lake  Champlain,  presents  an  interesting  ap- 
pearance from  the  water.  The  ruins  of  the  old  fortifi- 
cations  are  situated  on  a  neck  of  land  running  into  the 
lake  •;  the  embankments  are  visible  and  indicate  an  im- 
mense amount  of  labor  expended  to  render  this  point  in- 
vulnerable to  an  approaching  fee,  whether  by  land  or  wa- 
ter ;  yet  it  was  taken  by  surprise,  at  the  commencement 
of  the  revolutionary  struggle,  by  the  celebrated  Col. 
Ethan  Allen. 

Port  Hknry,  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake  is  situated 
on  Cedar  Point,  at  the  mouth  of  Buliuagga  Bay,  which 
separates  Crown  Point  from  the  main  land.  Here  are 
the  works  of  the  Port  Henry  Iron  Company ^  with  iron 
ore  of  good  quality  in  the  vicinity. 

Westport,  54  miles  north  of  Whitehall,  is  situated  on 
northwest  bay,  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain.    It 


<  I! 


1 


114 


TOUR    TO    CANADA,    ETC. 


contains  6  or  700  inhabitants  and  is  a  thriving  place.  A 
horse  ferry  boat  here  plies  across  the  lake,  running  to 
Basin  Harbor,  Vermont. 

Fort  Cassin,  7  miles  further  north,  on  the  east  side 
of  Lake  Champlain,  is  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Otter  river,  which  is  navigable  to  Vergennes,  a  distance 
of  5  miles. 

Split  Rock,  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  2  or  3  miles 
south  of  the  village  of  Essex,  is  a  rocky  promontory  pro^ 
jecting  into  the  lake  on  the  west  side,  about  150  feet,  and 
elevated  above  the  levej  of  the  water  some  30  or  40  feet. 
This  is  perhaps  the  greatest  natural  curiosity  on  Lake 
Champlain.  The  part  detached  contains  about  half  an 
acre,  covered  with  a  small  growth  of  trees,  and  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  main  rock  about  20  feet.  It  is  evident  this 
rock  has  been  detached  by  some  convulsion  of  nature,  as 
the  two  faces  exactly  fit  each  other — the  prominences  in 
the  one  corresponding  with  the  cavities  in  the  other. 

The  village  of  Essex,  68  miles  from  Whitehall,  is 
handsomely  situated  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Cham> 
plain,  opposite  Charlotte  Landing,  with  which  it  is 
connected  by  a  horse  ferry  boat.  The  lake  here  expands 
to  3  or  4  miles  in  width,  and  presents  a  large  expanse  of 
water  towards  the  north.  The  Green  Mountains  of  Ver- 
mont, and  the  Adirondack  Group  of  Essex  county,  are 
here  seen  stretching  north  and  south  in  vast  mountain 
peaks  and  ridges.  The  CaineVs  Rump,  being  one  of  the 
highest  peaks  of  the  former,  is  overlooked  by  Mount 
Marcy  on  the  New- York  side  of  the  lake,  the  latter  being 
elevated  5,467  feet,  or  upwards  of  one  mile  above  the 
tide  waters  of  the  Hudson  ;  and  near  it  this  noble  river 
has  its  most  northern  source. 


TOUR    TO    CANADA,    ETC. 


115 


Burlington,  Vermont,  82  miles  from  Whitehall  and 
75  miles  from  St.  John's,  Canada,  by  steamboat  route,  is 
most  delightfully   situated   on   the  east   shore   of  Lake 
Champlain.  This  is  the  most  important  place  in  the  state, 
lying   on   Burlington   Bay.      It  possesses  a  convenient 
and  safe   harbor  for  steamboats  and  lake  craft.    The 
United  States  government  have  here  erected  a  breakwater, » 
which  protects  the   shipping  from   westerly  winds,  and 
is  a  great  addition  to  the  security  of  the  harbor.    In 
1840,   it  contained  a  population  of  4,721   inhabitants; 
about  600  dwelling  houses;  the  University  of  Vermont, 
consisting  of  four  spacious  edifices;  the  Episcopal  Insti- 
tute; a  court-house  and  jail;  7  churches  of  different  de- 
nominations, an  academy  and  2  female  seminaries,  2 
banking  houses,  several  well  kept  hotels,  and  a  number 
of  stores  of  different  kinds;  besides  several  factories  and 
mills,  and  most  every  kind  of  mechanic  establishments. 
This  village  overlooking  the  lake,  with  its  bays,  islands, 
and  adjacent  scenery — the  passing  steamboats  and  other 
vessels;  possesses  a  beauty  of  location  probably  unsurpass- 
ed by  any  other  place  in  the  Union.   In  trade  and  commerce 
it  is  closely  allied  with  the  interests  of  the  State  of  New- 
York.    Steamboats  stop  here  daily  on  their  route  from 
Whitehall  to  St.  John's,  Canada;  a  steamboat  also  plies 
from  this  place  to  Port  Kent,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
lake,  a  distance  of  10  miles,  and  thence  to  Plattsburgh,  a 
further  distance  of  12  miles. 

Port  Kent,  is  advantageously  situated  on  the  west 
side  of  Lake  Champlain,  12  miles  south  of  the  village  of 
Plattsburgh.  It  contains  about  250  inhabitants,  30  dwel- 
ling houses,  1  church,  2  taverns,  3  stores  and  2  ware- 
houses. The  site  of  this  place  is  beautiful,  command* 
Ing  one  of  the  finest  views  on  Champlain,  extending  to 


116 


TOUR    TO    CANADA,   KTC. 


the  opposite  shore  of  Vermont.  It  is  contemplated  to 
construct  a  railroad  from  Port  Kent  to  the  Au  Sable  Forks, 
a  distance  of  16  miles,  passing  through  the  villages  of 
Keeseville  and  Clintonvillc.  Immediately  south  of  the 
landing  at  this  place,  lies  Treinbleu  Poin*,  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Clinton  range  of  mountains. 

Kkksevillk,  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Au  Sable 
river,  4  miles  west  of  Port  Kent.  It  contains  about 
2,000  inhabitants,  300  dwelling  houses,  1  Congregational, 
1  Baptist,  1  Methodist  and  1  Roman  Catholic  church,  an 
incorporated  academy,  1  banking  house,  2  taverns,  and 
18  stores  and  groceries.  The  water  power  at  this  place 
is  very  great,  and  advantageously  used  by  several  manu- 
facturing establishments.  The  "  Keeseville  Manufactur- 
mg  Company"  is  chartered,  with  a  paid  capital  of  $40,000; 
they  own  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  an  extensive 
water  power,  on  which  is  situated  a  forge  with  three  fires, 
a  rolling  mill  and  nail  factory,  which  manufacture  into 
roll  iron  and  nails  about  1,000  tons  of  iron  annually. 
The  "  Keeseville  Wollen  and  Cotton  Company"  is  also 
chartered,  with  a  paid  capital  of  $30,000:  they  own  on 
the  south  side  a  large  factory  builling,  to  which  is  at- 
tached a  drying  house  and  a  dye  house,  all  built  of  stone 
in  the  most  substantial  manner.  There  are  also  2  flouring 
mills,  4  extensive  sawmills,  which  make  annually  about 
half  a  million  of  market  boards;  1  furnace  and  a  ma- 
chine shop,  1  plaster  mill,  1  brewery,  1  large  wheel- 
wright shop,  1  tannery,  and  1  printing  office,  together  with 
most  other  kinds  of  mechanic  work  shops. 

At  Birmingham,  2  miles  below  Keeseville,  is  a  suc- 
cession of  picturesque  falls,  in  all  about  150  feet  descent. 
Immediately  below  the  lower  falls  the  river  enters  a  deep 
ravine  of  singular  and  romantic  beauty.  Through  the 
chasm  thus  formed  by  the  wearing  of  the  waters,  or 


TOUR    TO   CANADA,    BTC. 


117 


IS  a  suc< 


some  convulsion  of  nature,  the  rocks  rise  from  75  to  150 
feet,  almost  pcrpendiculnr,  for  a  distance  of  about  two 
miles,  averaging  about  50  feet  in  width,  altogether  form- 
ing  a  great  natural  curiosity.  In  addition  to  the  above, 
there  are  other  ravines  in  this  vicinity  of  singular  for- 
mation. 

PLATTSBURGk  ,  i:.  situatcd  on  both  side  of  the  Saranac 
river,  on  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  162  miles 
north  of  t!ie  city  of  Albany.  It  was  incorporated  in 
1815,  and  now  contains  about  2,600  inhabitants,  350 
dwelling  houses,  a  court-house,  jail  and  county  clerk's 
office;  I  Presbyterian,  1  Episcopal,  1  Methodist  and 
1  Roman  Catholic  church;  an  incorporated  lyceum 
and  an  incorporated  academy ;  5  hotels  and  tav- 
erns, 30  stores  and  groceries,  1  flouring  mill,  1  grist 
mill,  2  cotton  factories,  3  woollen  factories,  2  marble 
mills,  2  fulling  mills,  2  saw  mills,  2  tanneries,  1  machine 
shop,  1  soap  manufactory,  and  2  printing  offices,  together 
with  almost  every  other  kind  of  mechanic  work  shops. 
The  water  power  at  this  place  is  very  great;  the  Saranac 
river  here  having  a  succession  of  falls,  making  a  total 
descent  of  about  40  feet;  only  a  part  of  which  is  occu- 
pied for  mauufacturing  purposes.  The  surrounding  coun- 
try  is  rich  in  agricultural  and  mineral  productions,  and 
Plattsburgh  is  the  proposed  termination  of  the  Ogdens- 
burgh  onl  Lake  Champlain  Railroad,  which  when  com- 
pleted, will  greatly  lend  to  develop  the  resources  of  the 
whole  northern  part  of  the  Slate  of  New-York.  This  is 
an  United  States  military  post,  where  the  government  are 
now  erecting  extensive  stone  barracks,  near  the  lake 
shore,  south  of  the  village,  and  a  permanent  breakwater 
for  the  protection  of  the  harbor. 

Plattsburgh  was  the  scene  of  an  important  engagement 
between  the  British  and  American  armies,  in  September, 


118 


TOUR    TO    CANADA,    ETC. 


I 


1814,  which  resuUed  in  the  defeat  of  the  British,  under 
the  command  of  Sir  George  Prevost,  and  the  capture  of 
the  British  fleet  under  Com.  Downie,  who  was  killed  in 
the  action.    The  American  army  was  commanded  by 
Maj.  Jen.  Macomb,  and  the  fleet  by  Com.  McDonough. 
The   officers,   on  both   sides,  who  fell  in  the  several 
encounters  by  land  and  water,  on  the  memorable  occasion 
just  mentioned,  were  buried  in  the  public  cemetery  adja- 
cent to  the  village  of  Plattsburgh;  but  their  graves  were 
left,  under  the  pressing  exigencies  of  that  time,  without 
any  permanent  monument,  or  stone  of  memorial.    That 
community,   long  discontented  with  an   omission  which 
seemed  to  betoken  an  apathy  not  at  all  in  unison  with 
real  feelings,  at  last  determined  to  make  amends  for  their 
neglect,  and  fufil  all  the  rites  of  sepulture.     Accordingly, 
a  little  previous  to  the  return  of  the  anniversary  of  the 
battle,  in  1843,  meetings  were  held  at  which  it  was  re- 
solved to  celebrate  the  day,  by  placing  marble  monu- 
ments,   with    appropriate    inscriptions,   at   the   several 
graves,  and  thus  render  to  the  brave  and  devoted  dead, 
the  remaining  public  honors  so  eminently  their  due,  and 
so  long  left  unpaid.    This  design  was  carried  into  effect 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  Clinton  County  Mili- 
tary Association,  and   the   anniversary  rendered  deeply 
interesting  by  the  placing  of  these  monuments,  with  ap- 
propriate ceremonies  and  religious  services,  accompanied 
by  commemoration  addresses. 

The  graves  are  arranged  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram, 
with  that  of  Capt.  Downie,  the  commander  of  the  British 
flotilla,  in  the  centre,  as  the  officer  of  highest  rank. 
The  names  of  the  others,  so  far  as  known,  are  as  follow: 
Of  our  own  countrymen,  Lt.  George  W.  Runk,  of  the 
U.  S.  A.;  Lt.  Peter  Gamble,  U.  S.  N.;  Lt.  John  Stans- 
bury,  U.  S.  N.;  Sailing  Master  Rogers  Carter,  U.  S.  N.; 


TOUR    TO    CANADA,    EOT. 


119 


ogram, 
British 
rank, 
ollow: 
of  the 
Stans. 
S.  N.; 


Midshipman  James  M.  Baldwin,  U.  S.  N.;  Pilot  Joseph 

Barron,  U.  S.   N.,  and  another  pilot,  name  not  known. 

Of  the  British  army  ;    Col.  Wellington,  3d  Regt.  Buffs, 

Capt.  Purchcss,  76th  Regt.,  and  a  Lieutenant,  name  not 

known,  of  the  3d   Regt.   Buffs;  and  of  the  British  navy 

three  Lieutenants,  names  not  known. 

The  beautiful  lines  of  an  Irish  poet  of  the  last  century, 

(Collins,)  can  never  be  more  appropriate  than  to  this 

occasion: 

"  How  sleep  the  brave  who  sink  to  rest, 
By  all  thr  r  country's  wishes  Meat ! 
When  spring  with  dewy  fingers  cold, 
Returns  to  deck  their  hallowed  mould. 
She  there  shall  dress  a  sweeter  sod 
Than  fancy's  feet  have  ever  trod. 
There  honor  comes,  a  iiilgrim  grey, 
To  bless  the  turf  that  wraps  their  clay, 
And  memory  shall  awhile  repa'r 
To  dwell  a  weeping  hermit  there." 

Cumberland  Head,  is  a  peninsula  extending  two  oir 
three  miles  into  the  lake,  opposite  the  village  of  Platts- 
burgh,  forming  Cumberland  Bay,  into  which  empties  the 
Saranac  river. 

Crab,  or  IIosfitai.  Island,  lies  2  miles  south,  and 
near  the  track  of  the  steamers  on  their  way  to  and 
from  the  landing  at  Plattsburgh.  It  was  on  a  line  near* 
ly  north  and  south  between  Cumberland  Head  and  Crab 
Island,  that  the  British  and  American  fleets  encountered 
each  other,  on  the  11th  of  September,  1814,  a  day  which 
brought  so  much  honor  to  the  American  flag. 

South  Hero,  and  North  Hero,  are  the  names  of  two 
Islands  belonging  to  the  jurisdiction  of  Vermont.  The 
former  is  connected  by  a  ferry,  on  the  west  side  with 
Cumberland  Head,  and  on  the  east  side  with  the  main 
shore  of  Vermont. 


120 


TOVR    TO   CANADA,    ETC. 


'  , 


M 


M  I 


.  CnAXY  Lanpino,  10  miles  north  of  Plnttsburgh,  is  a 
convenient  ntenmboat  landing,  on  the  west  side  of  Lake 
Chnmplain. 

Ism:  au  Mott,  opposite  the  above  landing,  is  a  fine 
islnnd,  also  attachcil  to  Vermont.  It  is  6  miles  long  and 
2  miles  wide,  con1ainii:g  much  good  land,  and  a  valuable 
quarry  of  mnrble. 

The  town  of  ALDUno,  Vt.  is  n  triangular  body  of  land, 
projecting  from  Cr.nada  into  Lake  C'hamplain,  by  v^hich 
it  is  surrounded,  excepting  on  the  Canada  side.  On  the 
eastern  shore  lies  the  village  of  Jllbi'rg,  a  port  of  entry, 
and  a  few  miles  north  is  Alburg  Springs,  where  is  a  small 
settlement,  and  mineral  spring  of  considerable  efficacy  in 
scrofula  and  other  CK-^es. 

Missisqui  Bay,  still  further  northeast,  is  a  large  body 
of  water  lying  mostly  in  Canada,  or  north  of  the  45th  de- 
l^.ee  of  north  latitude. 

The  village  of  Rouse's  Point,  in  the  town  of  Cham- 
plain,  25  miles  north  of  Plattsburgh,  and  139.  miles  from 
Whitehall,  is  situated  on  the   west  side  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  about  one  mile  south  of  the  Canada  line,  and  has  a 
convenient  steamboat  landing.     It  is   surrounded  in  part 
by  a  level  and  fertile  region,  which  extends  w  est  to  the 
St.  Lawrence  river.     One  mile  north  of  the  village  is  a 
military  position  commamllng   the  navigable  channel  of 
the  lake.     In  1815,  the  government  of  the  United  States 
commenced  the  construction  of  a  strong  fortress  at  Rouse's 
Point;  but  on  running  out  the  boundary  line  between  the 
United  States   and   Canada,  under  the  treaty  of  Ghent, 
this  point  was   found    to  be   north  of  the  45th  degree  of 
north  latitude,  and  the  works  were  suspended.     By  the 
treaty  of  Washington,  concluded  in  1842,  the  boundary 
was  so  adjusted,    however,  as   to  give   this  point  to  the 
United  Slates.     The  suspended  works  are  in  a  very  dilapi- 


M 


TOUn    TO    CANADA,    RTC. 


121 


urf^h,  is  A 
?  of  Lake 

,  is  a  fine 

long  and 

t  valuable 

y  or  land, 
by  w  hich 
.  On  the 
:  of  entry, 
is  a  small 
efficacy  in 

irge  body 
c  45th  de- 

if  Cham. 

jles  from 

;e  Cham- 

ni  has  a 

d  in  part 

St  to  the 

lllagc  is  a 

liannel  of 

ed  States 

It  Rouse's 

een  the 

Ghent, 

legree  of 

By  the 

jundary 

It  to  the 

dilapi- 


dated con.litiiin,  nml  srr\  sat  P'cscnt only  as  n  land-iimrk 
to  inilicatc  tlio  lineofdivihiDn  between  two  national  juris- 
dictioi'is. 

At  riir.  LiNr;.  llie  lake,  vliicli,  n  lillle  south,  18.3 
miles  across,  narrows  to  about  a  mile  in  widlli.  On  tlic 
east,  as  the  sfeauicr  passes  iuto  flie  Cnuailian  uiiters, 
may  he  seen  a  lon^  line;  of  road  cut  tliroiiuli  a  fiu'cst :  this 
marks  the  boundaries  between  Canada  and  the  United 
Stales. 

Asif  Island,  4  miles  north  vl'  Rouse's  Point,  is  consi- 
fI  lered  the  foot  of  Lake  Champlain.  Here  the  Hiclielieu, 
or  St.  John's  river,  as  the  outlet  of  Lake  Chaniplain  is 
called,  is  about  half  a  mile  wide.  Tlielandon  both  sides 
of  the  stream  seems  almost  1(.'\ el  with  the  water,  and 
presents  this  low  and  Hat  surface  fur  many  miles. 

Isi.n  Aux  Noix,  situated  in  the  Riciielieu  river,  12 
miles  north  of  Rouse's  Point,  is  the  first  steamboat  land- 
ing after  eulering  Canada.  Here  is  a  strong  fortification 
occupif  I  by  IJiiiish  troops,  and  con^mnnding  the  channel 
of  the  river.  The  American  steamer  is  compelled  to 
land  at  this  jilace  to  lake  on  boarda  custom  house  otficer, 
and  lo  show  their  permit  as  it  returns.  On  the  arri\al  of 
the  boat  at  St.  John's,  being  us  far  as  the  river  is  naviga- 
ble for  steamboats;  the  baggage  of  the  passengers  is 
subject  to  the  inspection  of  custom  houte  ollicers,  before 
being  removed  on  shore;  a  duty  being  levied  on  such  arli 
cles  as  are  not  allowed  to  eater  fre(,'. 

St.  John's,  or  Doiu  iir,si'i:a,  ].')7  miles  from  Wliilehall, 
is  advantageously  situated  on  the  ^vest  side  of  the  Riche- 
lieu river,  a  bridge  connecting  it  with  Hie  village  of  St. 
Anthanaise  on  the  opposite  shore.  It  is  23  miles  north  of 
the  American  line,  2-1  miles  southeast  of  Montreal,  and 
contains  about  2000  inhabitants,  250  dwelling  houses,  a 
custom  liouse  and  barracks   for  soldiers,  1  l'2piscoj)al,  J 


122 


TOUB    TO    CANADA,    ETC. 


I 


Roman  Catholic,  ani  1  Methodist  churchj  10  hotels  and 
taverns,  of  which  Mann's,  Morehouse's,  and  Mis.    Wat 
son's   are    the  most   noted;  9    stores   and  2   forwardin}? 
houses,  2   tanneries  and  a  number   of  mechanics'  shops 
of  different  kinds. 

The  Chambly  Cana/,  extends  from  St.  Sohn'sto  Cham- 
bly,  on  the  north  west  side  of  the  Richelieu  river,  a  dis- 
tance of  12  miles.  It  was  completed  in  1S43,  at  a  cost 
of  about  $100,000.  There  are  nine  locks  on  this  canal 
120  feet  long,  24  feet  wide  and  6  feet  deep;  lift  10  feet 
each,  making  a  total  descent  of  90  feet  in  12  miles. 
This  canal  was  constructed  by  the  Provincial  govern- 
ment. It  affords  navigation  for  vessels  of  100  tons  burden 
between  Lake  Champlain  and  the  St.  Lawrence  river, 
thus  furnishing  an  uninterrupted  water  communication 
from   New- York  to  Quebec. 

The  Champlain  a:nl  St.  Lawrence  Railroad  extend- 
ing from  St.  John's  to  La  Prairie  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  a 
a  distance  of  15  miles,  belongs  to  a  joint  stock  company. 
It  was  completed  in  1S26,  at  a  cost  of  $200,000  including 
dep-'t  buildings,  locomotives,  cars,  &c.  The  road  runs 
over  a  level  section  of  country,  and  was  constructed  at  a 
less  sum  than  the  estimated  cost.  The  usual  fare  from 
St.  John's  to  Montreal,  is  one  dollar  in  first  class  cars;  fifty 
cents  in  second  class  cars. 

At  La  Prairik,  a  convenient  steam  ferryboat  convey* 
passengers  to   Montreal,  a  distance  of  9  miles. 

The  aspect  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  truly  grand  and  in- 
teresting, as  you  approach  it  on  the  south  from  St  John's. 
Towar  is  the  west  is  seen  the  Lachine  rapids,  one  of  the 
most  dangerous  on  the  river.  Opposite  Montreal  it  is  3 
miles  wide,  embosoming  the  beautiful  island  of  St.  He- 
len, which  is  fortified  and  garrisoned  by  British  troops. 


I 


TOUn    TO    CANADA,    ETC. 


123 


0  hotels  and 
Mis.    VVal 
forwardin}? 

anics'  shops 

I's  to  Cham- 
river,  a  (lis- 
43,  at  a  cost 
m  this  canal 
;  lilt  10  feet 
in  12  miles, 
cial  ^ovcrn- 
)  tons  burden 
renco  river, 
nmunication 

oad  extend, 
liawrence,  a 
;k  company. 
)0  including 
road  runs 
trucled  at  a 
fare  from 
scars  J  fifty 

jat  conveys 

nd  and  in- 
St  John's, 
one  of  the 
treal  it  is  3 
of  St.  He- 
ish  troops. 


if! 


As  yon  approach  Montreal  by  water,  the  city,  ship- 
ping, an  I  u  Iiarves  are  seen  to  greatadvantage.  The  lat- 
ter—the Avh:ifves — probably  exceed  any  thing  of  the 
kind  in  .\merica,  consisting  of  a  range  of  massive  and 
solid  masonry  e.xleu  ling  along  the  river  for  upwards  of 
a  mile.  ^^ 

•»*  For  a  des'^ription  of  Montreal,  and  other  places 
in  C.WAnv,  see  the  Tour  through  Canada  in  the 
**PiCTURKsQ,UK  Tourist." 


TABLE    OF    DISTANCES    BETWEEN    ALBANY 
AND  MONTREAL, 

BY   THE    MOST    DIRECT    ROUTE. 


PLACES. 


Place  to 
pbice. 


Albany, 

Troy, 

Whitehall,  ........ 

Ticonderoga, 

Burlington,     , 

Plattsburgh, 

Rouse's  Point, . . . . , 
St.  John's,  Canada, 
Montreal, 


0 
6 
66 
24 
5S 
25 
25 
24 
24 


From 
Albany. 


0 

6 

72 

96 

154 

179 

204 

22S 

252 


From 
Montrcdl. 


252 

246 

180 

156 

98 

73 

48 

24 

0 


I     ^ 


' 


! 


I      I. 


M 


124  TOUR    TO    CANADA,    ETC. 

TABLE  OF  DISTANCES    FROM  MONTREAL  TO 
QUEBEC,  BY* Water. 

To  Verennos, 15  Miles. 

William  Hcnrij, 30     45  " 

Lake  St.  Pf'ter, S     53  " 

Sr'Francis, 30     83  " 

Three  Rivers, 7     90  " 

St.  Anne, 25   155  " 

Rifhdiou  Riipids, 20  135  " 

Cape  Santo, 15   150  " 

Cape  Rouge, •  22  178  " 

Quebec,    8  180  " 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES  FROM  MONTREAL  TO 

KINGSTON. 


To  Lachine,  by  stage 9  M 

Cascades,  by  steamboat, 24     33 

Coteau  du  Lac,  by  stage, 16     49 

Cornwall,  by  steamboat , 41      90 

Dickinson's  Landing,  by  canal,  ... .  12  102 

Ogdensburgh,or  Prescoit,  s/t«/;i6ouf,  3iS   140 

Brockville,  do.  12  152 

liiNGSToN,  do.  60  212 


les. 


From  Kingston  to  Toronto,  by  steamboat,  180  miles- 
To  Niagara  Falls,    by  Steamboat    and    Railroad; 

50  miles  further. 

Total  distance  from  Montreal  to    Niagara  Falls, 

442  miles. 


:  7* 


^1 


NTREAL  TO 


15  Miles 

30 

45 

8 

53 

30 

83 

7 

90 

25 

155 

20 

135 

15 

150 

22 

178 

8 

180 

*  >     •    • 


NTREAL  TO 


9  Miles. 

24 

33  " 

16 

49  " 

A\ 

90  " 

12 

102  " 

38 

140  " 

12 

152  " 

GO 

212  " 

at,  ISO  miles- 
nd    Railroad, 

GAR  A  Falls, 


I 


^  ;-^fe 


o 


< 


o 


P4 


CO 

(D 
g 

o 

td 


CO 


>^ 


.".;•,  f:'p->\:.  X. 


.<  ■  y  ',«  J 


.  ■"H 


■f   ,, 


■If,  ... 


isr 


rv.3j< 


ii^s 


m  ■ 


..^' 


^•t"'  ."^'- 


*lWI<tM,I1 


vAf: 


.v.«  •  F)t 


•■  .*,/  "V  .;.' 


I 


--> 


!V 


# 


■'■■\  . 


WESTERN  TOUK. 


ROUTKS  FROM  ALBANY  AND  TROY  TO 
BUFFALO  AND  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

The  first  link  of  llie  great  chain  of  railroads  connect- 
ing the  n;i\  i^ablc  waters  of  the  If  lulson  with  Lake  Erie, 
is  the  Muhairk  and  Hudson  Railroad.  It  was  one  ol"  the 
first  constructed  raihoads  in  this  slate,  the  company  hav- 
ing been  cliartcrcd  in  1.S26.  It  extends  from  Albany  to 
Schenccta  \y,  KJ  miles,  and  passes  over  a  tract  of  sandy 
land,  covfrcd  nearly  the  whole  distance  with  a  thick 
growth  of  stunted  pines.  Though  at  present  barren  anvl 
uninvitini,',  this  dis^trict  is  capable  of  being  rendered  fruit, 
ful  and  beautiful  by  judicious  tillage;  and  at  no  extraor- 
dinary cost.  The  sand  is  everywhere  underlaid,  general- 
ly at  no  great  depth,  with  clay;  and  at  the  bottoms  of  the 
ravines  and  basins,  or  rather  bowls,  with  which  the 
Trhole  tract  abounds ;  are  rich  deposits  of  muck  and 
a  marly  clay,  which  could  be  mixed  with  the  sand  at 
about  as  little  cost  as  equal  quantities  of  other  manures, 
and  would  furnish  precir>ely  those  ingredients  which  are 
now  mostly  deficient  in  the  general  soil.  Tha  few  farms 
which  skirt  this  tract,  pre  encouraging  evidences  of  what 
the  whole  could  be  rendered,  and  if  so  rendered,  there 
are  few  districts  more  beautiful  than  this  would  be.  Its 
surface  is  agreeably  varied,  and  from  its  general  elevaticn, 
it  commnnds  a  wide  horizon,  with  distant  prospects  of 
universal  beauty. 

The  Schenectady  and  Troy  Railroad,  whic'^  has  re- 
cently been  put  in  operation,  extends  from  the  city  of 
Troy  to  the  city  of  Schenectady,  on  a  line  of  20  miles  in 


:^.: 


'f-  i£s^'^-%' 


I   '  ' 


i 


126 


WESTERN    TOUn. 


length,  and  mal<ing  wilh  Ihe  oilier  rend,  two  lines  of  travel 
divcrginii;  from  tlie  tide  waters  of  tiie  llud?.cn,  in  addi- 
tion to  llie  Eric  Canal.  This  read  (Vrni  Trc}  inclines  to 
the  north,  running  parallel  wilh  the  Mchuwlc  river,  and 
is  remarlcnhle  for  the  variety  and  leauty  of  its   scenery. 

The  City  of  Sciienkctady  is  hnntlscinely  situated 
on  the  south  bank  of  the  Mohawk,  ut  the  true  com- 
mencement of  the  celebrated  valley  of  that  river.  This 
is  an  ancient  place,  having  been  s^ellled  as  early  as  1620, 
by  the  Dutch,  many  of  whose  living  detccmlents  reside 
in  the  dwellings  ol'  their  ancesicrs,  aiai  retain  many  of 
fheir  primitive  habits.  This  place  \\as  called  by  the 
Indians  Hchagh-nac-laa-da;  t^ignifying  in  their  language, 
^'  beyond  tke  pine  plains."  During  the  old  French  and 
Indian  wars,  Feb.  9,  1690,  it  was  taken  by  surprise  in 
the  dead  of  night,  was  sacked  ami  burnt  by  tlie  Indians; 
a  great  number  of  its  inhabitants  were  massacred,  and 
others  carried  away  into  captivity.  It  was  chartered  as 
a  city  in  1798;  and  in  1840,  contained  6,784  inhabitants. 
Few  inland  towns  present  a  mere  thronged  tlicrcughfare 
than  Schenectady.  In  addition  to  the  Eric  Canal,  which 
passes  through  the  centre  cf  the  city,  here  diverge  four 
important  railroads.  Besides  those  already  mentioned, 
there  are  the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  Railroad,  run- 
ning to  Ballston  Spa  and  to  Saratoga  Springs,  21^  miles; 
and  the  Utica  and  Schenectady  Railroad,  running  to 
Utica,  78  miles,  and  traversing  the  rich  valley  of  the 
Mohawk,  parallel  with  the  river  and  the  Erie  Canal. 

The  public  building,  dwellings,  and  stores  in  Schenec- 
tady, present  a  plain  appearance,  perfectly  in  keeping 
with  the  general  character  of  the  place.  There  are  seve- 
ral well  kept  hotels,  affording  every  desirable  accommo- 
dation for  the  traveller,  if  inclined  to  tarry  lor  busines* 
or  pleasure.    The  place  derives  its  most  extended  cele- 


WESTRr.  N    Toun 


127 


tits  of  travel 
en,  in  addi' 
;}  inclines  to 
k  ri\er,  unil 
its  scenery. 
t}\y   situated 
c  true  com- 
livcT.    This 
Illy  as  1620, 
itlcnts  reside 
a  in  many  of 
ill  ltd  ly  the 
•ir  language, 
1  French  and 
f  surprise  in 
tlie  Indians; 
sacred,   and 
chartered  as 
nlmbitants. 
trcughlare 
anal,  which 
iverge  four 
mentioned, 
I  road,  run- 
21^  miles; 
running  to 
lley  of  the 
Canal, 
n  Schenec- 
in  keeping 
e  are  seve- 
!  accommo- 
or  businesi 
ended  cele* 


hrity  from  boincf  the  scat  of  Union  CoUeffe,  situated  on 
the  elevated  prouul  nl-nut  f  nlf  a  mile  east  of  llie  com- 
pact part  of  the  rily.  This  institution  was  incorporated 
in  17{)r>,  an  1  derive;!  its  name  from  the  fact  that  its  foun- 
ders were  nicmhcrs  of  (liircrcnt  denominations,  and  prof- 
ferel  its  advantri<:jes  in  liscrltninritely  to  the  followers,  of 
every  faith.  Tlic  i)uiMini^s  consist  of  one  stone  anil  two 
hrick  cJilices,  containing;  i-,ccommoilations  for  the  president 
anj  professors  and  their  families;  2  chapels,  lecture  and 
library  root'is,  4  halls  (or  the  meetinj?  of  literary  socie- 
ties,  an  I  dormitorits  for  students,  of  whom  there  are 
usually  from  2(K)  to  .'iOO,  from  every  section  of  the  coun- 
try. Attache  I  to  the  institiilion,  are  about  250  acres  of 
land,  appropriated  in  part  to  groves  for  recreation  and 
healtii.  These  are  distin!:jushcd  for  beauty  of  feature 
and  situation,  and  present  great  capability  for  improve- 
ment. The  annual  commencement  takes  place  on  the 
fourth  Wednesday  of  July,  after  which  there  is  a  vaca- 
tion of  six  weeks. 

In  addition  to  railroad  carr..  commodious  Canal  Packet 
Boats,  run  daily  during  the  opening  of  the  canal,  be- 
tween Sclienectady  and  Utica,  adistance  by  this  route 
of  80  miles,  affording  a  cheap  anrl  comfortable  mode  of 
conveyance. 

On  leaving  Schenectady  for  Saratoga  Springs,  and  for 
Ulica,  the  railroad  tracks  cross  the  Erie  canal  and  Mo- 
hawk river  by  substantial  bridges.  If  bound  for  the 
Springs,  you  procee  1  northward  through  an  interesting 
region,  passing  on  the  way  the  village  of  Ballston  Spa, 
an  old  and  celebrated  place  of  resort,  and  the  terminus  of 
the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoj^a  Railroad,  whicli  comes  up 
from  Troy.  If  bound  to  the  west,  your  route  is  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Mohawk,  and  your  £rst  halt  is  at  th« 
village  of 


12  < 


WnSTKUN    TOUIt, 


Amstkhdam,  IT)  inilf's  iVoiu  Sclionectady,  anl  con, 
noc'U'il  by  a  loU-biiilgc  vvitli  Port  Jackson  on  tlie  oppo- 
siile  of  the  river.  Amstorilam  fontairis  about  1,700  inha- 
tunts,  :tn  1  ill  llio  iinin(%Iialo  vicinity  arc  annually  quarried 
lar4?c  ((uanlities  of  a  line  (jnality  di'  limestone,  much  used 
for  the  eonstruftion  of  locks  an  1  (<tlier  public  Avorks. 
Stai;;cs  leave  Anistenlum  daily  for  the  Fisii  irousF.,  on 
the  Sacon;la'j;a  iiv(;!-,  anl  for  other  places  to  the  north  in 
Fulton  county.  One  or  two  mile*  west  of  Amsler.lan^ 
on  the  line  ol'  the  railroa  I,  arc  situated  two  of  the  old 
stone  mansions  of  the  Johnson  familV;  who  fi<>;urel  large- 
ly in  the  early  history  cf  this  part  of  the  country. 

SrnonAHiF,  Ciikkk,  a  fine  stream  d(.'scen  ling  from  the 
high  lands  away  to  the  south,  and  towards  the  head  wa- 
ters of  the  Delaware,  enters  the  INTolur.vk  in  the  midstof  a 
broad  tract  of  rich  alluvial  lanl,  at  the  distance  of  2,2  miles 
from  t-lchenectady.  On  a  sort  of  natural  bastion  in  the 
an'^le  between  the  creek  an  1  the  river,  once  stood  Fort 
Unntcr,  famous  in  old  colonial  times,  in  the  transactions 
between  the  Indians  and  the  white  men,  and  its  remains 
are  still  traceabk. 

Fonda,  a  pleasant  village  of  recent  date,  and  the  coun- 
ty  seat  of  Montgomery  county,  is  42  miles  by  railroad 
from  Albany.  It  stands  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mo- 
hawk, and  opposite  the  village  of  Fulton vili.e,  on  the 
Erie  canal. 

Johnstown,  the  county  scat  of  Fulton  county,  lies  4 
miles  north  of  the  Pilohawk  river,  and  45  miles  from  AK 
bany.  This  is  an  old  and  interesting  place,  containing 
about  1,000  inhabitants.  It  was  originally  founded  by 
Sir  William  Johnson,  whose  residence,  built  of  lime- 
stone, is  still  Stan  rg  about  one  mile  west  of  the  village. 
A  daily  line  of  stages  runs  from  Johnstown  to  Fonda 


WKSTEIlIf    TOUR. 


129 


conn(!cliii<,'  \vUh  tiie  curs  on  Ihe    Ulicu  ami  Sclicnectady 
Iluilrotbl. 

To  llic  nmlli  ol'  JolinL'lowu  nml  some  'M)  miles  distant 
lies  the  comity  ol"  Hamilton,  being  lor  tlic  nio>«t  part  Qft 
unsettle. I  Avilderness  of  iireat  extent.  This  ret^ion  of 
country  abounls  ^vill>  laUes  iunl  streanis  richly  stored 
with  tioiit  an  I  other  iish  of  line  llavor,  thtr  most  fre- 
(luente  I  r<!Sorts  are  Luke  Pleasant  ami  Lnk-i  Piseco, 
and  the  creeks  an  I  rivers  in  their  neighborhood. 

Spkakkr's  Basin,  on  the  line  of  the  laie  canal  is  38 
miles  Iroin  Schenectady.  Here  is  located  a  thriving  settle 
meat,  containing  a  church  an  1  .some  20  or  30  dwellings. 
Palatim:  IJiunor.,  51  miles  from  Albany,  ctmnects 
with  the  village  of  Canajohauik,  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  JNIohawk  river,  and  the  proposed  terminus  of  the 
Catakill  and  Ccnajoharie  Railroad,  a  distance  of  78 
miles  from  tl'.e  Hudson  river  at  Catskill,  by  this  route. 
Canajoharie  was  incorporated  in  1821),  and  now  contains 
about  J, 300  inhabitants.  The  Erie  canal  passes  through 
the  centre  of  the  village.  Stages  leave  this  place  daily, 
during  the  sMnmer  season,  for  Sharon  Sulphur  Springs 
and  Coopcistown. 

Shaiion  Springs,  some  10  or  12  miles  south  of  Cana- 
joharic,  and  45  miles  west  of  Albany,  via  the  Cherry- 
Valley  turnpike,  has  become  a  place  of  considerable  re- 
sort for  health  or  pleasure.  The  Pavilion  is  a  large  and 
well  kept  public  house,  allbrdinga  view,  said  to  be  equal 
to  that  of  the  Catskill  Mountain  House.  The  rides  in 
the  vicinity,  the  numerous  villages,  extensive  views, 
neighboring  caves  and  romantic  scenery,  together  with 
the  delightful  fishing  in  Otsego  Lake,  are  among  the 
many  attractions  offered  to  those  seeking  in  the  heat 
of  summer  either  health  or  pleasure. 


t*"-jt-t" " 


n^=" 


^t 


I  ^ 


130 


wr.KTKiiw  Toun. 


Ailde  I  to  tlu'srn  Iviintnyrn,  (lir  piiri'clpnrwritrrs  of  those 
spriiiu:-!,  i;ii'nl!y  rfv-ciiiMiii-.'  tlmsr  «,!' (he  VVInlc  Siilpfiur 
Fprinu's  ol'  \'ir:^'irii;i,  hitvc  Ikto  prove  I  to  In*  hiirlily  rlH^ 
ciicioiis  ill  KliiMiiiKUic,  ('mani'oiis,  aii  I  Dyspeptic  r»im« 
pluiittx,  (III  I  ill  soiiK*  resprotH  posM'SH  iiicilicitml  imil  lienl> 
ing  pnipoilics  nnsiirpuf'he.l,  nir.l  believe, I  to  be  uiiecmiilled 
ill  the  Unitf  I  Ftates. 

From  (I  cerlilirate  of  n    roreiit  analysis  iiiiule    for  the 

proprii'liir  o*'  these  Spriinjs  l)y  one  oC  tlir    most  eminent , 

cheini>(s  in  this  countiy,  (Dr.  Chilton  of  N«;w- Yorii.)  the 

folluwing  results  huvu    bccu  ubtuinuJ  iVuiii  one  gallon  of 

the  water;  iiraina. 

Siilpliatc  of  Magnesia, 42.40 

Kulpliate  ol"  liiiiie, lll.-'!2 

(  iiiori'lc  ot' So'liiiin, 2.2-1 

t'hloride  ol    Maijjac^sium, 2.40 

llylrosulphurct  of  Soiimm,    i 

Hylrosiilpliuret  tJlCakiiini,  >  ...    2. 28 

Vegetuble  exlriclive  inutter,  ) 

Tolul  strains, 1()().94 

SulphurctlCii  My.  I  rot;  en  Uas, IG  cubic  inches. 

Cooi'KR.sTowN,  althou£;h  o/l'  from  the  great  line  of 
t;avei,  east  ami  west,  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  It  is  66 
miles  west  of  the  city  of  Albany,  byst.T^'c  route,  and  most 
delightfully  situated  on  a  plain  at  the  outlet  of  Otsego 
Lake,  this  beinij  the  chief  source  of  the  Susquehanna 
river.  No  inlan:l  village  in  the  Union,  probably  excels 
Coopcrstown  in  elegance  of  situation  and  beauty  of  sur- 
roun;!ing  scenery.  Otsego  Laki'  v*.  the  immediate  vicini- 
ty, is  a  most  beautiful  sheet  *A'  water,  abounding  in  trout 
and  bass,  celebrated  for  their  |»»'»-uliar  Havor. 

RiciiFiEMi  Sprtn'os,  •!!>  mil*"!*  from  Albany,  is  situated 
near  the  head  nf  Canaderaga  Isi.e.  Here  is  a  celebrated 
sulphur  spring,  which  is»  mu.  >  re*ort»*d  to  by  invalids, 
and  is  noted  for  the  cure  of  cut    leous  disorders. 


WKBTKiiN  Torn. 


131 


FoiiT  Pr.AiN,  57  iriilcs  fVf  in  All  any  I  y  rnilt(n»l  route, 
on  llic  s«)iitli  siJi'  ofil.c  iMiilmuk  ri\«'r,  is  siiiiutdl  (n  the 
line  ol' llic  I'.iic  cuiimI;  il  w.-itj  incoiptratL';!  in  |s;{l,  und 
now  cutiluiiis  iib(;ul  1,  U;()  inliuhiiiiiits.  A  duily  line  of 
stages  run  litnu  this  i»!ncc  to  Clirrry-S  alley,  C'copcrs- 
town,    iinl  Shurcn  Springs  in  ISrliol'.nric'  county. 

Paj-atink  CmiKii.  <;()  miles  lioni  Albany,  is  sur- 
rouH.lcl  by  ii  small  sctllrment. 
•  JSaint  .lortiNsvn.i.i;,  (I'.i  miles  fri.m  All;atiy  antl  31  t'rcn\ 
Utica,  is  sitiiated  on  the  ncrlli  side  (d"  iLe  iMijluiw  Iv.  en  the 
line  (d'  the  I'tica  und  ^Jelicucctudy  Uuilicud;  il  cuiilains 
about  300  inliahitants. 

Kast  Canaca  Cur.KK,  enters  the  Mohawk  river  3 
mik'b  wr.'t  ol' t-t.  .l(dins\ille.  'I  Lis  tiicnm  fi,i  u  consi- 
deral/le  (li^liinte  I'orins  tie  l)(  un.Iary  line  bdwccn  the 
counties  ol'  IMoril'^eniory  and  IlerKiuicr. 

Lii.i.i.v.  J'Ar.i.s,  Ileikimer  county,  is  f-dtuf.ted  en  both 
hides  (d'  the  Moliawk,  73  miles  vves-t  of  the  city  ol'  Alba- 
ny. It  was  first  inciMporafrl  in  ISJl^  and  amended  in 
IS27;  it  now  contains  abcul  4,jOO  inhabitants,  300  dwel- 
ling lioe.scs,  1  I'resbjtii  11  1  Episccpul,  1  Baptist,  1 
Method i>t,  and  1  Ucm^T,  c  atholic  church  ;  a  large  and 
bea'tiful  academy  bu^i'Jan^^  u  baiiking  house,  5  hotels, 
bad  taverns,  30  stocvs  and  groceries,  2  printing  ollices, 
tog^lli.i'r  with  almoi  every  ether  kind  cl'  mechanic  work 
shops;  and  the  \  likicc  is  rapidly  improving  in  pcpulution 
and  business.  1\  e  MiJmwk  river  here  falls,  in  the  dis- 
tance of  half  a  ruilo,  about  42  feet  alfdrding  hydraulic 
power  to  a  larc:e  extent,  only  a  small  portii-n  of  which  is 
at  present  occiipieil  tor  manufacturing  purposes.  There 
are  now  erected  and  in  operation,  1  extensive  wrcd^cn  fac- 
tory, with  new  and  improved  machinery,  3  paper  mills, 
3  iiouriug  mills,  2  saw  mills,  1  plubter  mill,  1  Uip  hami- 


132 


WKSTKUN     TO  ITU. 


mor  woiKs,    1    runnrcs,    1    murliitu"  shop,  1  «lislillcry,  I 
browcry,  I  sash  Ciiclory,  nnl  1  fulliim  mill. 

Tliis  pl.u'c  iin  I  vicinity  is  justly  r('lti)iiilc  I  for  its  wild 
«nil  rommilif  sciMitMy,  nud  is  nvuch  rcsoilrd  to  l>y  Ihn 
admirns  o("  uiilmc  iiii  I  ml.  The  i;;ap  Ix'twccu  lln-  iikmjii- 
tains,  through  \\l>ich  tlic  river  has  JippiU'cutly  worn  lor 
itsrir  a    passaiii',    tluni'_;h    roiilincd,    is    still    of    liicadth 


BUlluMrnl  to  allorl  room  lor  a  large  town.  1  lie  rock  at 
lh«'  river  ImvI  is  primitive*  ixi"i>ili«'  gneiss,  very  liard  hut  is 
readily  (jiinrrie  I  and  l>rol\(>n  into  Imilding  stone.  Ahovo 
this,  on  the  ujonntnin  sides,  lies  the  sand  ro«*lv,  and  still 
higluM",  at  the  top.  are  extensive  heds  of  Idue  limestone; 
great  (luantilies  (»l  whii-ii  have  l>een  iised  in  eonstrneling 
the  h)cks,  and  lor  I)nil  ling,  for  coping,  an  I  for  Magging. 
Through  this  gorge  passes  the  I'.rie  canal,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  river;  and  the  I'tica  and  Schenectady  Hailromi 
and  the  iNlohawU  turnpiUe  on  11h>  ninth.  It  is  the  gate- 
wny  through  which  the  proilnct  and  trav(d  of  the  vast 
west  must  of  necessity  pass  to  tide  water.  .An  a(ineduct 
crosses  the  !Moha\vk  at  this  plac(>,  communicating  with  a 
feeder  on  the  north  side  cd'the  river,  and  is  a  fine  specimen 
of  masonry.  A  daily  line  of  stages  runs  between  Little 
Falls  an  1  Trenton  I'alls,  and  several  mail  routes  north 
and  south  branch  olf  at  this  place. 

Wkst  C.vnap.v  Cukkk,  enters  the  Mohawli  river,  5 
miles  west  of  liittlo  Falls.  Its  whole  length  is  about  (JO 
miles  from  its  sources,  in  the  wilds  of  Hamilton  county. 
It  is  a  romantic  an  I  lovelystream,  and  abounds  with  tine 
trout.  About  20  miles  from  its  mouth  are  situated  Tren- 
ton  Falls,  being  on  the  border  of  *!ie  town  of  the  same 
name  in  Oneida  county. 

The  village  ol'  Hhrkimkh,  79  miles  from  Albany,  is 
handsomely  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk  on  the 
north  side  of  the  river.    It  was  incorporated  in  1807,  and 


^sa. 


Wr-NTKHN    TOirn. 


133 


llrry,  I 

ils  wiW 
»  by  thr 
i>  ii\<mn- 
\o\\\  lor 
litt'udUt 
•  itu'k  at 
nl  lull  is 
Above 
nnd  still 

stn\rtinjj 

lie    south 

Uiiilrnad 

the  i^ato- 

tlu'  vast 

UflUOilUCt 

ivj;  with  a 
spiH"iitiou 
'cn  liiltle 
es   north 

(c  river,  5 
uliout  CO 

|n  i-ounty. 
with  line 

lie  I  Tren- 
the  same 

ilbany,  is 

i\\i  oil  the 

1807,  and 


now  ccMitniiis  .'ilxml  S()()  inliiibiliiiits,  I'JO  (l\\«lliiii^  'Mtusos, 
a  new  brick  ((nii  t-boiise,  iitiil  sloiie  jiiil,  biiill  (ni  iin  im- 
proved tiiodel,  conibiiiitii;  seeiiiily  mid  cciiilbrt  to  tho 
prisoners;  ii  (ire-prooC  (d<'il\'s  ollice  ;  nii  iiii-orporatcd 
aoub'niy  in  u  floiirishite^'  ronditioii  ;  I  biuilviii'^  honsc  i 
1  (■'rriiiJKi  K'el'ornied,  niid  I  MellMtdist  (linrcli;  (i  hotels 
and  In  veins;  10  stores  iind  ^Mdceiies,  tmil  I  ininlintr  oflir.c. 
Here  is  n  (lonriin:  mill  '■ontiiininjj;  four  run  id'  slone,  situ- 
%  uted  on  a  hydnitilir  coval,  A\lii(li  is  (id  by  llie  wiilers  of 
the  West  Cnnndii  creelv;  it  is  nboiit  lliiee  mibs  in  length 
and  Iiiis  two  I'ulls,  one  of  22  feet,  and  iuiotber  of  If)  feet, 
uliordinu;  water  jtower  snllieient  to  propel  upwards  of  100 
run  (»f  stone, most  of  wbi<  li  is  still  iinofciipied,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  durable  and  available  water  powers  in  tho 
Ktate. 

The  \illa'j;e  of  Mohawk,  situated  on  the  south  side  of 
the  river,  one  mile  w<"st  of  Ilerkinn-r,  is  a  thriving  place 
of  business,  through  whieh  passes  the  I'.rie  ranal. 

The  village  cd'  I'hank i out,  J>  miles  east  of  I'tioa,  is 
also  situated  on  the  line  o/'  the  I'-rie  eaiial,  and  contains 
about  500  inhal)itants. 

'J'liK  Vvv\  ov  Utica,  situa1(!d  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Mohawk  river,  is  on  the  site  of  old  /'or/  i^chinjhr,  93 
miles  west  of  the  city  of  Ail)any.  It  was  chartered  in 
1S;{2,  and  is  now  divided  into  four  wards,  and  i,'overncd 
by  a  coniM'.fiii  council,  consisting  of  a  mayor  and  12  alder- 
men. Ill  ISIO,  it  contained  12,S10  inhabitants,  about 
1. ()()()  dxvellinu;  house's,  1}  Presbyterian  churches,  1  Re- 
formed Dutch,  2  l^iiiscopal,  A  I^aplist,  3  Methodist,  2 
Catholic,  1  I'niversalist,  and  1  African  church,  and  1 
Friends  meetinc;  house  ;  1  I'roteslant  and  1  Catholic 
orphan  asylum  ;  1  public  marl  et,  4  bankin?:  houses  and  1 
gavin!:['s  bank  ;  1  mutual  insurance  company;  2  incorpo- 
rated academies,  one  for  males  and  the  other  for  females; 


134 


■WESTERN    TOUR. 


a  museum  locate  1  in  the  Exchanj^e  buiUin^;  1  public 
gar.lo;i ;  15  hot'jls  aril  tavern^.,  basiJes  several  extensive 
private  boar.lin;^  houses.  The  July  term  of  the  supreme 
court  of  the  state,  the  several  terms  of  the  vice-chancel- 
lor's court  for  the  fifth  circuit,  one  term  of  the  United 
States  district  court  for  the  northern  district  of  the  state 
of  New- York,  an  1  one  term  of  the  circuit  court  for  the 
county  of  Onei.la,  are  hoi  Jen  in  Utica.  The  office  of  one 
of  the  clerk's  of  the  supreme  court,  that  of  the  clerk  in 
chancery  for  the  fifth  circuit,  of  the  clerk  of  the  Unitetr 
Ifetates  court,  an!  of  the  clerk  of  the  county  of  Oneida, 
are  located  in  this  city. 

The  New-  York  State  Lunatic  Jlsijlum,sil\ivitel  on  some- 
what elevate  1  ground,  about  one  mile  west  of  the  centre  of 
Utica,  is  a  noble  anl  imposing  structure.  The  finished 
building  c!in  accommodate  upwards  of  200  patients.  This 
humane  estal)!ishment  is  calculated  for  the  reception  of 
all  insane  persons  in  the  state,  whose  frienls  or  c ..oty 
authorities  may  apply  in  their  behalf.  The  probable  ex- 
penditure of  the  state,  will  be  above  half  a  million  of 
dollars  to  complete  the  design  of  the  four  buildings,  as 
contemplate  1  by  the  commissioners  appointed  by  the 
state  autliorities.  There  were,  according  to  the  census  of 
1840,  3,973  lunatics  in  the  state. 

In  a:l  lition  to  the  Erie  canil  which  passes  through  the 
centre  of  the  city,  the  Chenango  canal  commences  at 
this  pla:e,  anl  ter.iiinates  at  Binghaniton,  in  Broome 
county;  tlie.  Utica  anl  Schenectaly  Railroad  anl  the  Syra- 
cuse an  J  Utina  Railroal  unite  at  this  point,  forming  two 
of  the  principal  links  in  the  great  chain  of  railroads, 
which  are  completed  between  the  cities  of  Boston,  Al- 
bany and  Buiialo. 


M 


i 


■i 


t^BSTKRN    TOUR. 


135 


Tl.o  city  ofUtica  is  surrounJed  by  oneof  tlie  finest  and 
richest  agricultural  and  manufacturing  districts  in  the 
Union,  anl  is  a  wealthy  anJ  flourisliing  place  of  business. 
The  Erie  canal  through  the  city  has  been  wiJeneJ  to  70 
and  deepened  to  7  feet,  and  presents  a  fine  appearance 
from  the  several  beautiful  and  well  constructed  bridges 
which  span  its  brcaJth.  Before  the  canal  was  widened, 
the  several  bridges  were  miserable  looking  structures,  so 
low  that  boats  could  but  just  pass  beneath.  But  now 
they  are  raised  some  six  feet  higher  than  formerly,  and 
are  really  ornaments  to  the  city. 

The  principal  hotels  in  Utica  are  chiefly  situated  on 
Genesee-street,  of  which  the  following  are  the  most 
noted  ;  Bag»?:'s;  Hotel  or  Bleecker  House  ;  American  Hotel; 
Franklin  ll  National   Temperance  House,  and  the 

McGregor  ;   .  .» ,t.  on  Wliitesboro'-?lrect. 

Several  daily  lines  of  stages  run  from  Utica,  north  and 
south.  The  following  are  the  arrangements  for  1844,  or 
during  the  summer  months  : 

1.  An  accommodation  coach  leaves  Utica  daily,  (Sun- 
day's excepted,)    at  8    o'clock,   A.    M.   for   Denmark, 
62  miles  north,  where  passengers  can  remain   over  night 
and  take  a  stage  next  morning  for  Watertown  and  Sackett's 
Harbor,  or  for  Ogdensburgh. 

2.  The  U.  S.  mail  coach  leaves  daily  at  1^  P.  M.  or  on 
the  arrival  of  the  cars  from  Albany,  and  proceeds  directly 
through  to  Watertown  and  Sackett's  Harbor,  and  via  Den- 
mark to  Ogdensburgh. 

3.  A  stage  leaves  at  1|P.  M.  fa  ^inghamton,  94  miles, 
and  connects  with  stages  running  to  Owego  and  Mon- 
trose, Pennsylvania. 

4.  A  stage  leaves  daily,  (Sunday's  excepted,)  at  8 
A.M.,  for  Hamilton,  connecting  with  a  canal  packet 
boat  for  Binghamton. 

5.  A  stage  leaves  daily  for  Cooperstown,  44  miles. 


^, 


136 


WESTERN    TOtJR. 


II    i 


6.  A  stage  leaves  every  Monday,  Wednesday  and  Fri- 
day, at  li  P.  M.  for  Ithaca,  96  miles. 

7.  A  stagf'  aves  daily,  (Sundnys  excepted,)  at  8  A. 
M.  for  New  ijerlin,  and  connecting  with  a  stage  running 
to  Mt.  Pleasant,  Pennsylvania. 

8.  A  stage  leaves  daily,  (Sundays  excepted.)  at  l^P. 
M.  for  Augusta,  via  Clinton. 

Extras  can  at  all  times  be  obtained  by  those  who  wish 
to  visit  Trenton  Falls,  or  any  of  the  places  off  the  reg^ 
lar  stage  routes. 

Trenton  Falls,  18  miles  northeast  from  Utica,  and 
on  the  Weit  Canada  creek,  in  the  town  of  Trenton,  are 
among  the  most  remarkable  scenes  in  our  country.  The 
wild,  secluded,  and  primeval  aspect  of  the  place  serves 
greatly  to  heighten  the  effect  of  the  striking  spectacle  pre- 
sented by  the  stream  ;  and  the  whole  is  so  deeply  embo- 
somed in  the  primitive  forest  that  no  token  of  the  long 
and  deep  gorge  through  which  the  waters  rush,  is  visible 
till  you  are  on  its  very  brink.  Within  a  distance  of  about 
2  miles  there  are  ro  less  than  six  distinct  cascades,  inter- 
changing with  rapids  as  picturesque  as  the  falls  them- 
selves. 

The  first  fall,  beginning  up  stream,  is  called  the  Upper 
Falls,  and  has  a  descent  of  about  20  feet.  The  river 
then  dashes  along  its  rocky  bed  about  a  mile,  with  a  des- 
cent, in  that  distance,  of  about  20  feet  more,  to  tlie  second 
falls,  called  The  Cascadts.  A  little  further  down  you 
come  to  the  third  fall,  called  the  Mill-dam,  from  the  regu- 
larity and  smoothness  of  the  ledge  of  rock,  about  20  feet 
high,  over  which  the  waters  pour.  About  10  rods  more, 
bring  you  to  the  High  Falls.  At  this  place  the  volume 
of  the  stream  is  separated,  by  rifts  in  the  rock,  into  three 
distinct  cataracts,  having  a  perpendicular  pitch  of  more 
than  100  feet.     Here  the  chasm  has  become  very  deep, 


:.l 


A 

WESTERN    TOUR. 


137 


and  Fri» 

)  at  8  A. 
running 

)  atliP. 

who  wish 
the  reg^ 

tica,   and 
enton,  are 
Llry.     The 
lace  serves 
^ctaclepre- 
[;ply  embo- 
f  the  long 
I,  is  visible 
ce  of  about 
tics,  inter- 
falls  them- 

the  Vlf\)ir 
The  river 
with  a  des- 
the  second 

down  you 
mlhercgu- 
lout  20  feet 
rods  more, 
the  volume 
into  three 
ich  of  more 

very  deep, 


and  the  high  wooded  banks  and  cliiTs  ot  bare  rock  on  each 
side  combine  with  the  cataracts  to  make  a  spectacle  of 
wild  and  savage  grandeur.  About  70  rods  further  down 
you  come  to  the  fifth,  or  Sherman'n  Falls,  having  a 
dt^scent  of  nearly  40  feet,  from  the  foot  of  which  the 
stream  pours  along  a  less  rapidly  descending  bed  to  the 
sixth,  or  Conrad's  Falls,  a  pitch  of  some  15  or  20  feet, 
am.  soon  after,  the  river,  escaping  from  the  deep  and 
dark  ravine,  flows  onward  between  more  sunny  banks 
and  through  a  softer  landscape. 

The  chasm  for  the  whole  distance,  is  cut  through  a 
vast  mass  of  lime-rock,  which  abounds  with  organic  re- 
mains ;  and  the  path  which  the  tourist  must  take,  if  he 
would  obtain  any  adequate  conceptions  of  the  scene,  is 
along  a  narrow  shelf  of  rock  near  the  foot  of  the  high 
and  in  some  places  overhanging  precipice,  and  on  the 
immediate  verge  of  rushing  waters.  This  shelf  is  so 
narrow  in  several  places,  and  so  perilous,  that  it  has 
been  found  necessary  to  guard  it  with  a  chain  supported 
by  iron  standards  let  into  the  rock ;  though  sad  to 
say,  this  safe-guard  was  not  furnished,  till  two  inter- 
esting young  females  had  been  lost  in  the  terrible  flood. 
The  entire  descent  of  the  stream,  from  the  top  of  the 
Upper  Falls  to  the  foot  of  Conrad's  Falls,  is  stated  at 
312  feet. 

The  village  of  Whitesborough,  3^  miles  westof  Utica, 
is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk  river.  This 
is  one  of  the  oldest  white  settlements  in  this  section  of 
countiy,  and  has  long  been  celebrated  as  a  pleasant  and 
attractive  place  of  residence,  being  surrounded  by  fertile 
lands  settled  by  an  intelligent  and  wealthy  communi- 
ty. It  was  incorporated  in  1813,  and  now  contains  about 
1,800  inhabitants,  many  of  whom  are  engaged  in  manu- 
facturing pursuits ;  and  it  embraces  within  its  corporate 

K 


138 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


H      ■ 


if 


limits,  a  settlement  called  Yorkville,  located  on  Sada- 
quada  creek,  one  of  the  most  valuable  mill  streams  in 
the  slate. 

Okiskany,  7  m."  west  of  Utica,  is  a  large  manufac- 
turing place,  site  ^i*  on  the  Oriskany  creek,  near  its 
junction  with  the  Mohawk  river.  It  contains  about  1,200 
inhabitants,  200  dwelling  houses,  2  churches,  4  public 
houses,  4  stores,  and  2  large  factory  buildings,  belonging 
to  the  "  Oriskany  Manufacturing  Company,"  which  an- 
nually manufacture  into  broad  cloths  and  cassimeres  about 
200,000  pounds  of  wool,  giving  employment  to  about  150 
men,  women  and  children.  The  buildings,  grounds  and 
machinery  of  this  establishment  cost  $200,000. 

It  was  here  that  the  battle  of  Oriskany  was  fought,  one 
of  the  bloodiest,  in  proportion  to  the  numbers  engaged, 
during  the  whole  war  of  our  Revolution,  and  in  which 
Gen.  Herkimer,  of  German  Flats,  lost  his  life.  He  was 
on  his  way  with  about  800  of  the  militia  of  the  Mohawk 
Valley,  to  the  relief  of  the  garrison  at  Fort  Stanwix,  when 
at  Oriskany,  a  deadly  fire  was  opened  on  him  and  his 
corps,  by  a  body  of  British  regulars,  tories,  and  Indians, 
from  an  ambuscade  in  a  narrow  ravine.  The  Americans 
were  completely  surrounded,  but  the  gallant  Herkimer 
and  his  brave  compatriots  maintained  the  fight  for  near 
six  hours.  Herkimer  received  his  mortal  wounds  early 
in  the  fight,  but  he  kept  the  field,  seated  on  his  saddle 
placed  on  a  hillock,  which  gave  him  a  view  of  the  con- 
test, and  from  which  he  calmly  issued  his  orders  to  the 
last.     This  was  on  the  6th  of  August,  1777. 

The  village  of  Rome,  14  miles  west  of  Utica,  is  situa- 
near  the  head  waters  of  the  Mohawk,  end  on  the  line  of 
the  Erie  canal,  where  it  is  intersected  by  the  Black  River 
Canal  Feeder.  It  was  incorporated  in  1819,  and  is  a 
half-shire  town  with  Whitesboro*  for  Oneida  county  j  it 


1^ 


I  -9 


■WESTERN    TOUR. 


139 


in  Sada- 
reams  in 

nanufac- 
near  its 
3ut  1,200 
4  public 
lelonging 
irhich  an- 
res  about 
ibout  150 
unds  and 

ught,  one 
engaged, 
in  which 
He  was 
Mohawk 
ix,  when 
and  his 
Indians, 
jnericans 
erkimer 
for  near 
ds  early 
is   saddle 
the  con- 
rs  to  the 

I  is  situa- 
le  line  of 
tfc  River 
land  is  a 
inty;  it 


'contains  about  2,500  inhabitants,  350  dwelling  houses  i 
a  court-house  and  jail;  6  churches,  1  bank,  25  stores,  be- 
sides 1  cotton  factory,  1  flouring  mill,  1  saw  mill,  1  brew- 
ery and  1  blast  furnace.  Here  is  located  a  United  States 
arsenal ;  and  a  number  of  work  shops.  This  place  stands 
on  the  site  of  old  Fort  Stanwix,  which  was  an  important 
military  post  during  the  Revolutionary  and  French  wars. 
Owing  to  its  natural  and  artificial  advantages,  this  village 
is  fast  increasing  in  wealth  and  numbers. 

Oneida  Dj:p6t,  27  miles  west  of  Utica,  and  26  from 
Syracuse,  is  a  new  settlement  where  the  train  of  passen- 
ger cars  usually  stops  some  10  or  15  minutes.  One  or  two 
miles  south  of  the  depot  is  the  incorporated  village  of 
Oneida  Castle,  near  which  resides  a  remnant  of  the 
Oneida  tribe  of  Indians  numbering  about  300  souls. 

Wampsville,  3  miles  further  west,  is  a  small  settle- 
ment through  which  passes  the  Syracuse  and  Utica  rail- 
road. 

Canastota,  32 1  west  of  Utica  by  railroad,  and  on  the 
Erie  canal,  was  incorporated  in  1835,  and  now  contains 
about  800  inhabitants. 

Chittenango,  39  miles  west  of  Utica,  by  railroad, 
is  situated  one  mile  south  of  the  Erie  canal,  with 
which  it  is  connected  hy  a  side-cut.  It  contains  about 
1,000  inhabitants,  180  dwelling  houses,  3  churches,  3 
taverns,  10  stores,  1  woollen  factory,  1  flouring  mill, 
and  2  large  factories  for  the  manufacture  of  water 
lime,  which  is  found  in  this  vicinity  and  is  extensively 
used  on  the  di^erent  public  works  of  the  state  and  for 
other  purposes.  There  is  a  sulphur  spring  one  mile 
south  of  the  village  of  Chittenango,  of  which  the  fol- 
owing  is  an  analysis,  by  Dr.  Lewis  C.  Beck. 

Temperature  49"  F.;  specific  gravity  1.00341. 


I 


i 


I 


■' 


j  I 


l! 


140' 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


The  following  is  the  composition  of  a  pint  of  the 
water : 

Grains. 

Carbonate  of  lime, 0.88 

Sulphate  of  Soda, 1 .  66 

Sulphate  of  lime  and  magnesia, 12.75 

Chloride  of  Sodium 0. 14 

Organic  matter, traces. 

Total, 15.43 

Besides  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  the  water  contains  a 
small  portion  of  carbonic  acid  gas. 

The  village  of  Cazenovia,  is  situated  on  the  Cherry 
Valley  turnpike,  about  10  miles  south  of  the  Erie  canal, 
118  miles  from  Albany.  It  was  incorporated  in  1810,  and 
now  contains  about  1,600  inhabitants,  250  dwelling 
houses,  and  4  churches  of  different  denominations.  Here 
is  situated  the  Oneida  Seminary,  a  theological  institution 
sustained  by  the  Methodist  denomination  of  this  and  the 
neighboring  states. 

Cazenovia  Lake,  is  a  small  but  beautiful  sheet  of 
water,  in  the  town  of  the  same  name.  It  is  4  miles  long 
by  i  mile  in  width,  abounding  in  different  kinds  of  fish. 

The  village  of  Manlius,  a  few  miles  south  of  the 
Erie  canal,  is  a  thriving  place.  Manlius  Centre  is  on  the 
Erie  canal,  near  the  line  of  the  Syracuse  and  Utica  rail- 
road. 

Syracuse,  53miles  west  of  Utica,  and  146  from  Albany 
by  railroad  route,  is  situated  on  the  line  of  jhe  Erie  canal, 
where  it  unites  with  the  Oswego  canal,  one  mile  and  a  half 
south  of  Onondaga  lake.  It  was  incorporated  in  1825, 
and  now  contains  about  7,500  inhabitants,  900  dwelling 
houses,  8  churches  of  different  denominations,  10  hotels 
and  taverns,  and  an  incorporated  academy,  2  banking 
houses  a  court-house  and  jail  and  county  clerk's  office. 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


141 


Syracuse  and  its  vicinity,  is  celebrated  for  the  immense 
quantity  of  salt  which  is  annually  made  from  the  brine 
springs  belonging  to  the  state.  No  town  in  Western 
New- York,  is  no  more  rapidly  increasing  in  wealth  and 
numbers  than  this  place. 

The  traveller  on  going  west  from  Syracuse  to  Roches- 
ter, has  the  choice  of  three  modes  of  conveyance,  viz: 
either  by  railroad,  105  miles,  by  canal  packet,  distance 
99  miles ;  or  by  canal  packet  to  Oswego  and  thence  by 
steamboat  to  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee  river,  distance 
104  miles. 

In  addition  to  the  Erie  canal,  which  passes  through  the 
centre  of  Syracuse,  the  Oswego  canal  commences  at  this 
point  and  terminates  at  the  village  of  Oswego,  connect- 
ing the  Erie  canal  with  Lake  Ontario.  The  Syracuse 
and  Utica  and  Auburn  and  Syracuse  Railroads,  unite  in 
this  place,  opening  a  direct  communication  east  and  west, 
and  a  channel  of  trade  with  all  the  places  on  Lake  Onta- 
rio and  Canada. 

Geddes  is  an  incorporated  village  2  miles  west  of  Syra- 
cuse, on  the  Erie  canal,  and  within  the  bounds  of  the 
Onondaga  Salt  Springs  Reservation.  The  most  consider* 
able  business  of  the  place  is  the  manufacture  of  salt. 

The  village  of  Salina,  in  the  town  of  the  same  name, 
is  situated  near  the  east  end  of  Onondaga  lake,  2  miles 
north  of  Syracuse.  It  was  incorporated  in  1824,  and 
now  contains  about  2,600  inhabitants.  Salina  has  long 
been  celebrated  for  its  valuable  saline  springs.  Here  are 
now  yearly  manufactured  large  quantities  of  fine  salt, 
which  finds  a  ready  market  in  this  and  the  western  states, 
and  Canada. 

Liverpool  is  another  village  principally  engaged  in 
the  manufacture  of  salt.    It  stands  near  the  northeast- 


; 


I 


. 


! 


112 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


erly  Bhorc  of  Onondaga  lake,  and  on  the  Oswcpc  caTiol' 
about  5  miles  from  Syracuse.  It  contains  about  1,001) 
inhabitants. 

Syracuse,  Salina,  Liverpool,  and  Geddes,  are  all  inclu 
ded  in  the  town  of  Salina  and  within  the  limits  of  the 
Onondaga  Salt  Springs  Rcscrvotion ;  and  though  the 
original  llcaervation  included  a  much  larger  extent  of 
*urface  than  is  occupied  by  these  villages,  yet  these  are 
the  only  portions  of  it  within  which  the  making  of  salt 
is  carried  on  ;  the  state  having  sold  to  private  citizens  the 
whole  of  the  Reservation  not  included  within  these  vil- 
lages, as  well  as  a  very  large  part  of  what  is  included 
within  their  bounds. 

Salt  was  first  made  on  this  tract  at  Salt  Point,  near  thu 
margin  of  Onondaga  lake  and  within  the  bounds  of  Sa- 
lina village.  The  manufacture,  in  very  trifling  quanti- 
ties, at  that  point,  was  carried  on  by  the  Indians  prior  to 
the  appearance  of  any  white  man  among  them,  as  it 
was  by  the  white  men  also,  at  a  very  early  period  of  their 
settlement  in  that  vicinity.  The  earliest  systematic  ar- 
rangments,  so  far  as  records  show,  for  making  salt,  to 
any  important  extent,  at  that  place,  date  as  far  back  as 
1787,  when  works  were  erected  which  produced  10  bush- 
els daily — a  very  insignificant  quantity  when  compared 
with  the  present  extent  and  productiveness  of  the  works 
on  the  Reservation. 

The  total  quantities  made  in  the  several  villages  men- 
tioned, and  the  aggregate  during  the  year  1843,  is  shown 
in  the  following  statement  made  up  from  the  last  annual 
report  of  the  State  Superintendent  and  Inspector  to  the 
Legislature  pursuant  to  law. 


WBSTURM    TOUn. 


143 


Total  quantity  of  sr ft,  fine  and  coarse,  inspected  on  the 
Onondaga  Salt  Springs  Reservation,  in  the  year  1843. 

Snlina, 1,203,138.00 

^^yracuse, 973,821.32 

Liverpool, 675,206. 18 

Geddes, 27.'),334.ij5 

Aggregate, 3,127,500.05 

Of  this  aggregate,  2,732,863.43  bushels  were  of  the 
kind  called  fine  salt ;  318,105.34  bushels  were  of  coarse 
salt;  and  76,531.28  bushels  were  of  the  description 
called  dairy  salt. 

The  fine  salt,  which  is  so  called  from  the  small  size  of 
its  crystals,  is  produced  by  the  agency  chiefly  of  artificial 
heat,  and  the  process  of  evaporation  is  carried  on  by 
boiling  the  brine  in  large  iron  kettles.  The  coarse  salt  is 
produced  exclusively  by  evaporation  in  the  open  air.  It 
is  sometimes  termed  solar  salt,  and  the  crystals  are  large. 
This  salt  is  the  purest  muriate  of  soda  known  to  com- 
merce. The  dairy  salt  is  so  called  from  the  particularly 
neat  and  convenient  manner  in  which  it  is  prepared  and 
boxed  for  use  in  dairies. 

The  state  of  New- York,  as  the  proprietor  of  these 
salines,  receives  a  duty  of  six  cents  a  bushels  on  all  the 
salt  inspected  on  the  Reservation;  and  the  works  are 
erected  under  written  leases  of  the  ground  for  specific 
terms  of  years,  for  making  the  fine  salt ;  and  under  li- 
censes somewhat  of  the  chrracter  of  conditional  grants, 
for  making  the  coarse  salt ;  but  both  are  gratuitous,  the 
duty  being  substituted  for  rent. 


I 


144 


WESTKUN    TOUR. 


The  village  of  Oswego,  3S  miles  north  of  Syracuse, 
by  canal  route,  is  situated  on  both  siiles  of  the  Oswego 
river,  at  its  entrance  into  Luke  Ontario,  It  is  a  port  of 
entry,  was  incorporated  in  182S,  and  now  contains  about 
4,500  inhabitants,  500  dwelling  houses, 2  Presbyterian,  1 
Episcopal,  1  Baptist,  1  Methodist  and  1  Catholic  church, 
besides  a  Bethel  congregation,  a  custom-house,  a  court- 
house, 1  banking  house,  an  insurance  company,  an  in- 
corporated academy  and  a  (emnle  seminary.  The  num- 
ber of  vessels  which  arrive  and  depart  from  this  port  an- 
nually is  very  great  J  there  being  owned  at  this  place 
alone  G  steamboats  and  70  schooners,  averaging  about 
100  tons  burthen,  besides  a  large  number  of  cunal  boats. 
The  harbor  is  capacious  and  safe,  being  protected  by  two 
large  stone  piers,  constructed  by  the  United  States  Go- 
vernment. On  the  end  of  the  west  pier  is  situated  a  light- 
house ;  about  half  a  mile  above  is  a  bridge  extending 
across  the  river,  600  feel  in  length.  An  extensive  for- 
warding business  is  done  at  this  place  by  means  of  lake, 
river  and  canal  navigation  ;  daily  lines  of  steamboats 
for  the  conveyance  of  passengers  run  between  Oswego, 
Sackctt's  Harbor,  Kingston,  and  Ogdensburgh,  on  the 
north  ;  and  Rochester,  Toronto,  and  Lewiston,  on  the 
west.  Connected  with  the  above  line  of  steamboats  are 
railroads  cars,  canal  packet  lines  and  stages.  During 
the  winter  months  daily  lines  of  stages  run  from  Oswego 
northeast  to  Sackett's  Harbor,  Watertown  and  Ogdens- 
burgh, east  to  Rome  and  Utica,  south  to  Syracuse,  south- 
west to  Auburn,  and  west  to  Rochester. 

At  Oswego  there  are  several  well  kept  public  houses. 
The  Oswego  House,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  and 
the  United  States  Hotel,  and  the  Welland  House,  on  the 
west  side,  are  the  most  frequented  by  pleasure  travellers. 
The  promonotory  on  the  east  side  of  the  Oswego  river, 
at  its  mouth,  has  been  ceded  lo  the  United  States  Govern- 


WBftTlORir    TOUR. 


146 


ment,  and  on  it  is  situated  old  Fort  Ontario,  which  has 
recently  underi^one  extensive  ropnirs,  affording  protection 
to  the  harbor  and  village  of  Oswego.     A  writer  makes 
the  fuUowinq  remarks  in  relation  to  this  important  mill* 
tary  position  : — "This  ancient  work  is   within  the  pre* 
cints   of  our   village,   situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Oswego  river  at  the  point  ofconfluence  w  ith  Lake  Ontario. 
It  was  one  of  the  old  northwestern  posts,  the  continued 
occupation  oJ  which  by  the  British,  after  the  peace  of '83, 
caused  so  much  indignation  on  the  part  of  the  Govern* 
ment  nn  I  the   people   of  the  United  States,  during  the 
period  of  the  Washington  administration.     It  was  evacu* 
ated  by  Col.  Grant,  in  1795.    The  works,  including  the 
glacis  and  outposts,  were  extensive,  and  very  considera- 
ble remains   of  them  exist.     Old   Fort  Oswego,  which 
was  situated  on  the   left  bank  of  the  river,  immediately 
opposite,   is   completely   levelled  and  occui)icd  by  ware- 
houses  and  manufactories,  a  ship  yard  and  marine  rail- 
way.     It  is  a  matter  of  much   satisfaction  that  the  care 
of  the  Government  is  at  last  extended  to  Fort  Ontario. 
In  connexion   with   the  navigation  of  Lake  Ontario  and 
the  communications  with  the  interior  of  the  state  and  the 
Hudson  river,  it  is  probably  the  most  important  military 
position  on  the  northern  frontier." 

Sackett's  Harbor,  about  50  miles  north  of  Oswego, 
and  distant  35  miles  from  Kingston,  Canada;  possesses 
one  of  the  best  and  most  secure  harbors  on  La'.c  Onta> 
rio,  being  situated  on  Black  River  Bay,  12  miles  below 
the  village  of  Watertown.  It  was  an  important  naval 
and  military  station  during  the  last  war  with  Great  Bri- 
tain, where  now  lays  a  large  vessel  under  cover.  Madi- 
son Barracks,  garrisoned  by  United  States  troops,  is 
handsomely  situated  near  the  landing,  being  in  full  vievr 
from  the  water. 


I 


14; 


I 


i  \:j 


,1 


146 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


The  village  was  incorporated  in  1814,  and  now  con* 
tains  about  2,000  inhabitants.  An  hydraulic  canal  ex* 
tends  from  Black  river  near  Watertown,  to  this  place,  on 
which  are  erected  several  mills  and  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments. 

Watertown,  is  advantageously  situated  on  the  south 
side  of  Black  river,  a  few  miles  above  its  entrance  into 
Black  river  bay.  The  water  power  of  this  place  is  very 
great,  and  there  is  now  a  large  amount  of  capital  invest- 
ed in  mills  and  in  different  kinds  of  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments, where  hydraulic  power  is  used.  The  village 
was  incorporated  in  1831,  and  now  contains  about  4,000 
inhabitants  ;  a  court-house  and  jail ;  a  state  arsenal ;  7 
churches  ;  3  banking  houses  ;  8  hotels  and  taverns,  and 
50  or  60  stores  of  different  kinds 
town  daily  for  Utica,  82  miles  distant. 


Stages  leave  Water- 


Pi^n 


Lake  Ontaric,  the  most  eastern  of  the  great  chain  of 
Lakes  of  North  America,  is  180  miles  in  length,  and  60 
miles  in  extreme  breadth  ;  being  about  485  miles  in  cir- 
cumference. The  boundary  line  between  the  British  Pos- 
sessions and  the  United  States  runs  through  the  middle 
of  the  lake  and  so  continues  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the 
45th  degree  of  north  latitude,  where  the  river  enters 
Canada. 

This  lake  is  navigable  throughout  its  whole  extent  for 
vessels  of  the  largest  size  ;  and  it  is  said  to  be,  in  some 
places  upwards  of  600  feet  in  depth.  Its  surface  is  eleva- 
ted 231  feet  above  the  Atlantic,  and  lies  334  feet  lower 
than  Lake  Erie,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  the  Niaga- 
ra river  and  by  the  Welland  canal  in  Canada.  It  has  also 
been  proposed  to  construct  a  ship  canal  on  the  American 
side.    The  trade  of  Lake  Ontario,  from  the  great  exten^ 


si' 


now  con- 
canal  ex- 
place,  on 
ng  estab- 

the  south 
mce  into 
ce  is  very 
a  I  invest- 
ing estab- 
le  village 
)out  4,000 
rsenal ;  7 
rerns,  and 
re  Water- 


WKSTBRN    TOUB. 


147 


,t  chain  of 
|h,  and  60 
lies  in  cir- 
itish  Pos- 
Ihe  middle 
(Bce  to  the 
er  enters 

3Xtent  for 
I,  in  some 

is  eleva- 
»et  lower 
le  Nia  ga- 
it has  also 

Lmerican 
Ut  exten^ 


of  inhabited  country  surrounding  it,  is  very  considerable , 
and  is  rapidly  increasing.     Many  sail  vessels  and  splen- 
did steamers  are  employed  in  navigating  its   waters, 
which  owing  to  its  great  depth  never  freezes,  except  at  the 
sides,  where  the  water  is  shallow  ;  so  that  its  navigation 
is  not  so   effectually   interrupted  by  ice  as  some  of  the 
other  large  lakes.    The   most  important  places  on  the 
Canadian  or  British  side  of  Lake  Ontario,  are  Kingston, 
Coburg,  Toronto,  Hamilton,  and  Niagara;  on  the  Ame- 
rican shore,   the  villages  of  Sackett'is^  Harbor,  Oswe- 
go, and   Charlotte  or  Port  Genesee.     This  lake  is  con- 
nected with  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Hudson  river, 
by  means  of  the  Oswego  and  Erie  canals.    It  receives 
numerous  streams,  both  from  the  Canadian  and  the  Ame- 
rican sides,  and  abounds  with  a   great  variety  of  fish  of 
an  excellent  flavor.    The  bass  and  salmon  in  particular, 
have  a  high  reputation  and  are  taken  in  large  quantities. 
The  passage  across  Lake  Ontario  in  calm  weather  is 
most  agreeable.     At  times  both  shores  are  hidden  from 
view,  when  nothing  can  be  seen  from  the  deck  of  the  vessel 
but  an   abyss  of  waters.     The  refractions  which  some- 
times take  place  in  summer,  are  exceedingly  beautiful. 
Islands   and  trees  appear  turned  upside  down ;  and  the 
white  surf  of  the  beach,  translated  aloft,  seems  like  the 
smoke  of  artillery  blazing  away  from  a  fort.     The  Bay 
of  Quinte,   on  the  north  shore,  in  Canada,  is  a  beautiful- 
ly winding  and  picturesque  sheet  of  water.    It  is  navi- 
gable for  about  80  miles,  and  on  its  borders,  are  several 
flourishing  settlements. 


148 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


I 


!t,i 


SUMMER  ARRANGEMENT,  FOR  1844. 

Packet  Boats  running  between  Syracuse  and  Oswego^ 

Distance  38  miles. — Usual  time  7  hours. — Fare  $1.50. 

Fare  through  from   Syracuse  to  Niagara  Falls  by  this 

route  $4.50,    (including  meals,)  by  Canal  Packet  Boat 

and  Steamboat. 

Packet  boat  Rochester,  Capt.  Wm.  D.  Stewart. 
"        "     Liberty,  '*       Francis  Rood. 

The  above  boats  form  two  daily  lines,  leaving  both 
places  at  7^  A.  M.  and  7  P.  M.j  connecting  with  steam* 
boats  on  Lake  Ontario. 

LAKE  ONTARIO  ROUTE. 

Daily  Line  (Sundays   excepted,)    bettoeen  Lewiston  and 

Ogdensburgh.  » 

Steamer  Lady  of  the  Lake,  Capt.  J.  J.  Taylor, 
*'        Rochester,  "     H.  N.  Throop, 

*'        St.  Lawrence,  "     J.  Van  Cleve, 

"        Oneida,  "    R.  F    Child, 

Will  run  daily,  (Sundays  excepted,)  between  Lewiston 
and  Ogdensburgh,  touching  at  the  intermediate  Canadi* 
an  and  American  ports,  as  follows : 

downwards. 

Leave  Lewiston,  daily,  except  Saturdays,  at  3  P.  M. 
Rochester,      "  "  "  at  11  P.M. 

Oswego,         "       except  Sundays,   at  8  A.  M. 
Sackett's  Harbor,     "  "  at  12  M. 

Kingston,  "  "  at  4  P.  M. 

Arriving  at  Ogdensburgh  in  the  afternoon  in  time  for 
the  daily  steamboats  for  Montreal,  which  run  in  connec- 
tion with  this  line. 

upwards. 

Leave  Ogdensburgh,     laily,  except  Sundays,  at  8  A.  M. 
-  "        "  "  at  5  P.M. 

at  9  P.  M. 

at  11  A.  M. 

at  6  P.  M. 

ate  A.  M. 


<( 


Kingston, 

SacketVs  Harbor,  " 
Oswego,  " 

Rochester, 
Toronto,  " 

And  arrive  at  Lewiston  at  10  o'clock  A.  M.  in  time  for 
the  cars  for  Niagara  Falls  and  Buffalo. 


n 


WESTERNT    TUUK. 


149 


Travellers  taking  this  route  west,  will  have  an  oppor- 
tunity to  view  by  daylight  Queenston  Heights,  and 
Brock's  Monument ;  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  Niagara, 
and  at  its  mouth  the  British  and  American  Forts  ;  on 
going  north  from  Oswego  to  Sackett's  Harbor,  Kingston 
andOgdensburgh,  affords  the  interesting  view  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  with  its  Thousand  Islands. 


wiston  and 


LIST  OF  AMERICAN  STEAMBOATS, 

Built  and  running  on  Lake  Ontario,  .since  their  first  introduction  in  1816. 


When 

i:^ . — -T^ :j~, — K. 

built. 

Name. 

Tons 
400 

Where  built. 

Remarks. 

1816 

Ontario,  -    -    -    - 

Sackett's  Harbor, 

Broken  up. 

1818 

.Sophia,  -    -    .    - 

75 

u             n 

Broken  up. 

1823 

Martlia  O^den,    - 

150 

u            u 

Lost  in  1832. 

law 

Brownville,     -    - 

150 

Brownville,    -    - 

Ch'ed  to  Wm.  Avery. 

1831 

Charles  Carroll ,  - 

100 

Sackett's  Harbor, 

Changed  to  America. 

laii 

Paul  Pry,    -    -    - 

50 

Ogdensbui-gh,     - 

Broken  up. 

1832 

United  States,      - 

4.50 

u 

Laid  up. 

1833 

Black  Hawk,*     - 

200 

French  Creek,    - 

Laid  up. 

la-M 

O.swego,     -    -    - 

400 

Oswego,    -    -    - 

Used  as  a  timber  ship. 

1836 

Oneida,  -    -    -    - 

300 

Oswego,    .    -    - 

Lewistonto  OgdensTi. 

1837 

Teleijraph,      -    ■ 

200 

Dexter,      •    .    - 

Oswego  to  Kingston. 

1K18 

John  Marshall,    - 

60 

Lake  Erie,     -    - 

Runs  fr.  S.  Harbor. 

ia3<) 

St.  Lawrence,     - 

4.'J0 

Oswesro,     -    -    - 

Lewiston  to  Ogdens'h 

ia39 

Express,     -    -    - 

1.50 

Poultneyville,     - 

Rochester  to  Kingston 

1841 

Geort'e  Clinton,  - 

100 

Oswego,    -     .    - 

U                            tl 

1841 

President,  •    -    - 

60 

"         ... 

Runs  from  Oswego. 

1842 

l.adyoftheLake, 

425 

"         ... 

Lewiston  toOgdeno^. 

1843 

Uocliester,  •    •    - 

400 

"        -    .    . 

a              u 

1841 

1842 
1842 
1843 


Vnndalia,    - 
Cliicago, 
0..!wego, 
j  New- York, 


ERICSSON  PROPELLERS. 

150 

1.50 

(( 

u 


1.50 
150 


Oswego, 


Oswego  to  Chicago. 


*  Now  named  Dolphin,  and  owned  in  Canada. 


150 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


LIST  OF  IJIUTISII  STEAMBOATS,   lUIILT  AND  RUNNING  OW 

LAKE  ONTAlllO. 


n 


Wlieu 

1 

^^— 

built. 

Namb. 

Tons 

701) 

Wiere  built. 

Remarks. 

18 IC  i  Fnmtt'nac,  -    -     - 

Ki  itf'^ioi,  -    -    - 

Broken  up. 

1817    Cliarlolte,    -    •    - 

150 

'fc»         ... 

Broken  up. 

1819    I)alli()usi«^  -    -    • 

;J50 

P,   SCI  ;t,    .    -    - 

Broken  up. 

1824  iTonmto,     -    -    - 

200 

T«»ronto,     .    -    - 

Broken  up. 

1821 

Quecniiton,     •    - 

350 

Queenston,    .    - 

Broken  up. 

182r. 

(-'iiniula,      •    -    - 

250 

Toronto,    -    .    - 

Broken  up. 

1825 

Nia!,'ara,     -    •     - 

400 

Urockville,     -    . 

Broken  up. 

1828 

Alciopo,      -    -    - 

4.50 

Niagara,    -    -    - 

Broken  up. 

1829 

SirJaniosKi^inpt, 

-M) 

Kin;r.ston,  -    -    . 

Broken  up. 

1S30 

Gri>at  Hrilaiii,  -    - 

7(X) 

Pre.scott,    -    .    - 

Broken  up. 

lail     Inxniojs,     -    -     - 

ion 

Broken  U|>. 

|8;}2 

Joliti  Bv,     -    -    - 

100 

Kinj;.ston,  -    .    - 

Broken  up. 

18.J2 

William  4tli,    -    - 

4.'0 

(;aiiano(|iic,    .     - 

Tow  boat. 

18.J2 

Transit,  .... 

:u) 

O.ikville,    .     .    - 

Toronto  to  LewisUjn 

l8Il;i 

Briiannia,   -    -    - 

200 

Kinji.slon,  .     .    - 

Laid  up. 

18:33 

Col)ur£f,       -    -    - 

500 

(^obiirij,      -     .    - 

Laid  up. 

18;};} 

Kinnslon,    •    -    - 

200 

Kingston,   -     .    - 

Bay  of  Quintn. 

iai3 

Brockville,  -    •    - 

■.im 

Brockville,     - 

Bay  of  UuiMte. 

1834 

Com,  Barric,  -    - 

275 

Kiuif.-^ton,  -    -    - 

Lost  in  1M12 

1834 

Union,    .    -    -     • 

300 

O.ikvill.',    -     -    - 

KioKston  to  Hamilton 

la-w 

S(.  Goorgo,  -    -    - 

400 

Kini^.-JtoM,  -    -    - 

L;ii  1  up. 

I8;i7 

Sir  llobort  Peol, 

;j.-)0 

Brockville,    -     - 

Destroyed  in  1838. 

1R37 

Goro,     -    -     -    . 

200 

Niai.ara,    -    -    - 

(Jobourjf  to  Hochester. 

1838 

Queen  Victoria,  • 

200 

«          .    .    . 

Ifamillon  to  Lcwislon. 

1839 

HonryGililcrsleve 

2."^) 

Kinjii^ton,  .    .    . 

Kinjj'n  to  Cot.  du  Lac. 

1839 

Ontario,'     •    -    - 

300 

Nia'j;ara,    -    .    - 

1840 

Hiulilander,     -    - 

:3oo 

Coteau  (In  Lar,  - 

KiiiR'n  10  Cot.  du  Lat, 

1840 

Albion,   -    -    -    - 

200 

Brockville,     .    - 

Bay  of  (iiiiiile. 

1»10 

Amnrica,    -    -     - 

300 

Niaijara,    -     -    - 

Toronto  to  Roeliostcr. 

I&IO 

Ciiy  of  Toronto, 

500 

'"         .     .    . 

Kiuiislon  to  Toronto. 

1840 

Sovereiijn.t     -    - 

475 

"         .     .     . 

Kinsston  to  Toronto. 

1841 

Princess  Royal, 

500 

"         .    .    . 

Kinsrston  to  Toronto. 

1&41 

Canada,-    -    -     - 

4.50 

Pre.scott,    -    -    - 

Kin-j'n  to  C/ot.  du  Lac. 

1841 

Frontetiac,  -   -    - 

200 

Kinifston,  -    .    . 

Bay   o(  Qiiinte. 

1841 

Sir  Charles,    -     - 

200 

"          .    .    . 

Toronto  to  Hamilton. 

1842 

Prince  of  Wales, 

200 

"          .    .    . 

Bay  of  Qiiinte. 

1842  1  Admiral,     -    -    - 

4lH» 

Niagara,    -     -    • 

Toronto  to  Roch<^ster 

1842  I  Ch.  Jus.  Robinson 

400 

i(         .    .    . 

Toronto  to  Lewi>!ton. 

imi     1  ITr-Kllau 

don 

K         .    .    . 

Toronto  to  Hamilton 

lc«0    |uCll[iS",  -     -       -      - 

BRITISI 

I  GOVERNMENT  VE' 

j;SELS. 

18.35 

Traveller,  -    .    . 

350 

Niasrara,    -     •    - 

18:38 

Experiment,    •    - 

l.-)0 

\ia-j;ar,i,     -    -    - 

1842 

Mohawk,    -    -     - 

ViO 

Kin'i;st()n,  .    -    • 

Iron  vessel. 

1842 

Cherokee,  -    -    - 

700 

Kiui^ston,  .    -    . 

•Now  Lord  Si/ilenhant;  she  was  run  down  the  rajiids  of  the  St.  Law. 
fence  by  Capt.  Ililliard,  in  1810,  and  plies  between  Quebec  and  Montreal. 

t  First  named  Niagara. 

Note —In  addition  to  the  above  list  of  British  steatnboafs  of  a  large 
class,  there  are  a  number  of  smaller  bnats  and  Ericaum  Priprllers, 
numins  from  Kinsfston  to  Montreal,  down  the  rapiilsofilie  Si.  Law- 
rence and  returning  through  the  Rideau  canal,  carryin.ij  an  immenae 
amount  of  produce,  merchatidise,  and  passengers. 


NINO  ON 


narks. 

I>- 

|i- 

P- 

p. 

!>• 

P- 

P- 

p. 

p. 

ip. 

ip. 

ip. 

t. 

0  Lfiwiston 


iiinto. 
tniiite. 

lo  Ilamilton 

d  in  lam 

to  Koclioster. 
1  to  Lcwiston. 
)  Cot.  du  Lac. 

)  Cot.  du  Lat, 

tnintc. 

lo  Rorhnstcr. 

to  Toronto. 

lo  Toronto. 

lo  Toronto. 

(^)t.  du  Lac. 

jiintP. 
Hamilton, 
linte. 

to  Iloch  lister. 

lo  I,(nvi-5(on. 

to  Hamilton. 


cl. 


Iho  St.  Law- 
nd  Montreal. 


1 


lis  of  !i  large 

lie  Si.  Law- 
an  immense 


WESTERN    TOUR, 


Route  from  Syracuse  to  Buffalo. 


151 


Camillus,  8  miles  west  of  Syracuse,  is  situated  on  the 
iine  of  the  Auburn  and  Syracuse  Railroad.  It  contains 
about  600  inhabitants. 

The  village  of  Jordan,  is  situated  on  the  Erie  Canal, 
19  miles  west  of  Syracuse.  It  was  incorporated  in  1835> 
and  now  contains  about  1,200  inhabitants.  A  railroad  is 
contemplated  from  this  place  to  Skaneateles,  from  which 
a  branch  road,  already  constructed  to  the  Auburn  and 
Syracuse  railroad,  is  a  part  of  the  contemplated  work. 

SKANE.^TELES,  5  milcs  south  of  the  line  of  the  Auburn 
and  Syracuse  Railroad,  is  delightfully  situated  at  the 
foot  ol  Skaneateles  Lake.  It  was  incorporated  in  1833, 
and  now  contains  about  1,500  inhabitants.  The  lake,  15 
miles  long,  and  from  a  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  wide,  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  by  well  cultivated 
farms  and  country  residences,  and  celebrated  for  its  fine 
trout,  which  are  taken  in  great  abundance,  weighing 
from  5  to  10  pounds. 

Auburn,  is  situated  on  the  outlet  of  Owasco  lake,  172 
miles  west  of  Albany,  and  8  miles  south  of  the  Erie  ca- 
nal. It  was  incorporated  in  1815,  and  contained  in  1840, 
5,626  inhabitants,  800  dwelling  houses,  a  court-house, 
jail,  and  county  clerk's  office.  The  Auburn  State  Prison, 
on  the  north  side  of  the  Owasco  outlet  a  splendid 
edifice  of  the  kind,  was  founded  in  1816,  and  cost  over 
half  a  million  of  dollars.  Here  is  inclosed  10  acres  of 
land,  surrounded  by  a  solid  stone  wall,  from  16  to  40  feet 
in  height  and  3  feet  thick.  The  main  building,  facing 
the  east,  is  3  stories  high,  besides  the  basement,  sur- 
mounted by  a  turretted  cupola,  in  which  is  an  alarm  bell. 
The  wings  are  of  two  stories,  the  whole  front  being  276 
feet  long,  and  the  wings  242  deep  by  45  feet  wide,  enclos- 


r 


W-'^'V 


152 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


If ' 


ing  on  three  sides  n  court  in  the  rear,  about  190  feet 
square.  The  cells  in  the  interior  are  built  within  the  ex- 
terior front,  are  5  stories  high,  surrounded  by  galleries. 
There  are  770  of  these  separate  cells,  each  4'ell  being  7 
feet  long,  3^  feet  wide,  7J-  feet  hijjh,  and  culcnl  ited  to  ac- 
commodate one  prisoner  during  his  relaxation  from  labor. 
In  addition  to  the  cells,  the  main  building  contains  a 
chapel,  a  hospital,  dining-room  for  the  prisoners,  cook- 
ing apartments,  and  store  rooms  ;  be^  ides  apartments  in 
the  rauiL>  front  bniUling,  used  as  offices  for  the  clerk  and 
agent,  and  for  ih.t  residence  of  the  principal  keeper. 
Here  are  now  aLiUt  700  -onvicls.,  mostly  engaged  in  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  mechanical  pursuits,  carried  on  in  work- 
shops and  under  largf  sheds  within  the  outside  prison 
walls.  Of  these  convicts.  570  are  natives  of  the  U.  States, 
and  130  foreigners. 

The  jSuburn  Theological  Seminary,  is  a  large  stone 
edifice,  4  stories  high,  above  the  basement,  and  will  be 
200  feet  front,  when  fully  completed  as  designed.  There 
is  now,  1841,  a  front  of  160  feet  finished  and  occupied, 
under  the  charge  of  four  professors,  with  about  80  stu- 
dents. It  was  chartered  in  1820,  and  first  went  into  ope- 
ration in  1821. 

The  outlet  of  Owasco  lake  is  a  large  and  durable 
stream.  Within  the  limits  of  the  village  there  is  a  fall 
of  about  100  feet,  aff"ording  hydraulic  power  of  great 
magnitude,  much  of  which  is  yet  unoccupied.  The  Au- 
burn and  Syracuse  Railroad,  terminates  at  this  place, 
and  extends  to  Syracuse,  26  miles.  The  Auburn  and 
Rochester  Railroad  commences  at  the  termination  of  the 
above  road  and  runs  to  the  city  of  Rochester,  in  rather  a 
circuitous  line,  a  distance  of  79  miles.  Stages  leave  Au- 
burn for  Ithaca  and  Cortland  on  the  south,  and  Oswego 
on  the  north,  all  of  which  connect  with  other  lines  of 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


153 


[)  feet 
he  ex- 
lleries. 
icing  7 
1  to  ac* 
1  labor, 
[itains  a 

nevits  in 
lerk  aiiti 
keeper. 
j(l  in  dif- 
in  work- 
de  prison 
J.  States, 

•ore  stone 
id  will  be 
There 
[occupied, 
,ut  80  stu- 
into  ope- 

durable 

is  a  fall 

of  great 

The  Ju- 

|his  place, 

iburn  and 

lion  of  the 

In  rather  a 

(leave  Au- 

|d  Oswego 

er  lines  of 


travel,  running  to  different  places.  Auburn  is  one  of  the 
finest  inhmd  villages  in  the  state  ;  its  public  and  private 
buildings  are  generally  constructed  in  a  good  style  of  ar- 
chitecture, combining  elegance  and  durability,  and  it  is 
altogether  a  very  desirable  place  of  residence. 

OwAsco  Lake,  a  few  miles  southeast  of  Auburn,  is 
12  miles  long  and  about  1  mile  wide,  being  celebrated 
for  its  picturesque  scenery.  The  water  is  very  transpa- 
rent, abounding  in  fish,  and  the  banks  rather  rugged. 

Weedspout,  8  miles  north  of  Auburn,  is  on  the  Erie 
canal.  It  was  incorporated  in  1831,  and  now  contains 
about  800  inhabitants. 

Port  Byron,  3  miles  west  of  the  above  place,  and  on 
the  Erie  canal,  was  incorporated  in  1837,  and  now  con- 
tains about  1 ,000  inhabitants.  Here  is  an  extensive  flour- 
tng  mill,  with  12  run  of  stones. 

Montezuma,  205  miles  from  Albany,  by  canal  route, 
is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca  canal 
with  the  Erie  canal  ;  it  contains  about  600  inhabitants, 
one  church,  three  taverns  and  5  stores.  Here  are  a  num- 
ber  of  saline  springs,  from  which  salt  has  been  manufac- 
tured ever  since  the  earliest  settlement  of  this  part  of 
the  couatry  ;  and  the  salt  is  of  the  best  and  purest  quali- 
ty. "  The  specific  gravity  of  this  brine  is  1.09767  j  and 
1,000  parts  of  it  contain  129.33  parts  of  dry  solid  matter, 
or  12.93,  in  100  parts  of  brine.  This  is  within  one  per 
cent  of  the  strength  of  mucli  of  the  brine  now  worked  in 
Onondaga  county." 

The  village  of  Cayuga,  10  miles  west  of  Auburn,  is 
situated  on  the  east  bank  of  Cayuga  Lake  ;  it  contains 
about  300  inhabitants,  50  dwelling  houses,  one  church, 
two  taverns  and  three  stores.  Here  the  celebrated  "  Cayu- 
ga Bridge"  crosses  the  lake,  which  is  upwards  of  a  mile 
wide  ;  a  new  bridge  has  also  been  here  erected  for  the 

L 


■X* 


^-    K 


154 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


railroad,  still  longer.     A  steamboat  runs  from  this  place 
to  Ithaca,  a  distance  of  40  miles. 


■\ 


\\i 


Tourists  travellini^  for  pleasure  are   recommended  to 
deviate  south  on  their  arrival  at  the  loot  of  Cayuga  Lak* 
and  make  the 

TOUR  OF  THK  CENTRAL  LAKES  ov  NEW- YORK 
Cayuga  Lakic,  which  constitutes  one  of  the  Central 
Lakes  of  New-York,  is  40  miles  long  and  from  1  to  4 
miles  wide  ;  it  lies  hctwccn  the  counties  of  Cayuga  and 
Seneca,  extending  some  10  or  12  miles  into  Tompkins 
county  Tliis  lake,  which  is  very  deep,  is  navignted  by 
steamboats  from  Cayuga  Bridge  to  the  village  of  Ithaca, 
stopping  at  tlie  intermediate  landings.  Itis  a  most  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water,  surrounded  by  well  cultivated  farms 
and  thriving  villages  ;  and  abounds  with  salmon  trout, 
white  fish,  pike,  pickerel,  perch  and  catfish.  On  several  of 
the  inlets  to  this  lake,  towards  the  south,  are  most  beauti- 
ful and  picturesque  water  falls,  well  worthy  the  attention 
of  the  lovers  of  natural  scenery.  The  outlet  flows  north 
into  Seneca  river. 

"  The  railroad  route  from  Auburn  to  Rochester,  carries 
you  to  the  northern  end  of  Cayuga  Lake,  where  the  rail- 
road crosses  the  water  by  a  bridge  a  mile  and  a  half  long. 
At  the  village  of  East  Cayuga,  you  can  embark  on  the 
steamer  Siineon  De  Witt,  a  fast,  commodious  and  well 
regulated  low-pressure  boat,  Where  every  attention  will 
be  paid  to  your  comfort  and  enjoyment. 

*'  In  this  vessel  you  pass  up  (south,)  through  the  Cayuga 
Lake,  which  is  40  miles  long,  and  varies  from  one  to 
four  miles  in  width.  The  extreme  beauty  of  this  sheet 
of  water,  transparent  as  crystal,  being  fed  to  a  great  ex- 
tent by  living  springs,  and  of  prodigious  depth,  500  feet 
of  line  failing  to  find  bottom,  its  varying  scenery,  from 
the  highly  cultivated  sloping  shores  at  its  northern  end 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


155 


is  place 


ended  to 
-a  Laka 

'.YORK 
e  Central 
nn  1  to  4 
jyuga  and 
rompkins 
,-igntcd  by 
of  Ithaca, 
nost  beau- 
ated  larms 
luon  trout, 
n several  of 
ost  beauti" 
c  attention 
ows  north 

Iter,  carries 
tic  the  rail- 
half  long, 
[ark  on  the 
Is  and  well 
jcntion  will 

pit  Cayuga 

j-om  one  to 

I  this  sheet 

rrreat  ex- 

,  500  feet 

Inery,  froni 

khern  end 


to  the  wilder  and  more  abrupt  borders  of  its  southern  ex- 
tremity ;  its  similarity  in  some  parts  to,  and  contrast  in 
others  with  the  Hudson  river  scenery,  have  never  failed 
to  elicit  from  all  who  have  passed  over  it,  the  highcit 
admiration." 

As  the  beat  proceeds  southerly  the  different  landings, 
passed  in  succession,  arc  as  follows  : 

On  the  eastern  shore,  Union  Springs,  or  Svringpout, 
where  several  mills  find  their  supply  of  water  from  the 
number  of  springs  which  rise  within  a  short  distance  of 
the  shore.  This  is  also  the  great  locality  of  the  gypsum 
or  plaster,  whence  a  large  portion  of  the  western  coun- 
ties of  this  state,  and  the  northern  counties  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, derive  their  supply  of  this  valuable  manure. 

Levanna,  a  beautiful  point,  jutting  out  into  the  lake. 

Aurora,  one  of  the  oldest  settled  and  most  pictures- 
que villages  in  the  western  counties.  The  route  changes 
here  to  the  western  shore,  when  the  first  landing  is 

Sheldkakk  Point,  a  beautiful  low  promontory,  ex- 
tending half  a  mile  out  from  the  main  shore.  Kidder's 
Ferry  ;  Portlano,  and  Fuog  Point,  are  next  passed. 

Goodwin's  Point,  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the  Taghcanic 
creek,  which  has,  a  mile  from  its  moulh,  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  cataracts  to  be  found  in  the  country. 

Crossing  the  lake  again  to  the  eastern  shore,  the  boat 
makes  its  last  stop  at 

LuDLowvii.LE  Landing,  the  port  of  the  village  of 
that  name,  which  lies  a  mile  from  the  water,  on  an  ele- 
vated spot,  but  not  visible  from  the  water. 

From  this  point,  the  suburbs  of  Ithaca,  distant  9 
miles,  crowning  the  eminence  in  the  rear  of  the  village, 
are  visible,  while  still  higher  may  be  seen  the  line  of  the 
Ithaca  and  Otvcgo  Railroad  distinctly  marked  by  the 
house  containing  its  stationary  engine  at  the  summit  (A 


156 


WBHTEHN    TOVH. 


■I       / 


its  incUnoil  plane,  which  is  rlevatod  ncnr  'lOO  feet  above 
tho  surrace  of  the  lnk«,  Tlie  vi11nii;e  of  Ithnca  is  par* 
tinlly  con(M»t\lc(l  by  n  dense  forest  from  th^  eye,  *in(l  is  ap- 
proached from  the  hike  throtmh  iUhe  CnyuRH  Inlet,  a  na- 
tural canal  of  two  miles  in  leitgth,  winding  through  the 
plain  on  which  the  villnse  stamls. 

Ithaca,  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  Hat  one  and  a  half 
miles  above  the  head  of  Cnyu^a  lake,  with  which  it  is 
connected  by  the  ('nyn{?a  Inlet,  navigable  for  steamboats 
to  the  villa<»e.  I{  is  170  miles  west  iVdm  Albany,  and 
distant  iOf)  miles  northwest  irom  the  city  of  New-York. 
This  village  was  incorpoialed  in  1821,  hnvin^  been  found- 
ed about  1800,  by  the  Into  Simeon  De  Witt,  surveyor- 
general  of  the  state.  It  now  contains  obout  4,000  in- 
habitants,  (iOO  dwellinj;  houses,  a  court-house  and  jail, 
and  a  county  clerk's  oflicc  ;  one  Presbyterian,  one  Dutch 
Reformed,  one  Episcopal,  one  Baptist,  one  Methodist 
and  one  yVfrican  church  ;  three  bankin'j;  houses,  with  an 
a.?c:regate  capital  of  $()50,000  ;  nine  hotels  and  taverns, 
and  46  stores  and  f,'roceries. 

Within  the  chartered  limits  of  the  villa«^'e  is  found  hy- 
draulic power  equal  to  any  in  the  state,  for  extent  and 
facility  of  application.  Fall  Creek  alone  is  capable  of 
opera  tin-:;  1H3,000  cotton  spindles  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year  ;  and  the  water  power  on  Cascadilla  and  Six  Mile 
creeks  is  very  extensive.  There  are  at  present  on  these 
streams,  2  Uourinj;  mills,  with  12  run  of  stones;  2  plas- 
ter mills,  1  tannery,  1  brewery,  1  paper  mill,  3  furnaces, 
2  machine  sliops,  1  cnrding  and  cloth  dressing  establish- 
ment ;  1  oil  mill,  1  sash  factory,  a  number'  of  turning^ 
shops,  2  tobacco  factories,  and  1  cotton  factory,  with  50 
looms  ;  besides  wliicli  there  has  been  rt  -cntly  established 
1  woollen  factory,  with  $100,000  capital,  and    7  sets  of 


VVESTRIIN    TOUR. 


167 


<>'«  c„,„,,  „„,  so„:;.  can  [  rr  ''"^"^"  "■'"■•-  -"<! 

Kric  canal;  „„a  l,v  .,,.  1,1,  ":       f"™""'"'™'™  »'"'■  "■« 
Kric  H„/,r„„,,.     ,.„„;'  °;  ,''"••''»«  <"  ""^  Wow.  York  .„d 

WW.  other  „.o»,„n  vili„  -e   t";/'"'"""'  °'"''"'"«™ 
»«  th=  Hudson,  i,  ,«naU,i„  ""'■''  "'"'  ""=  "«^» 

"^  -It,  lime,  flouVa"  ,,''=«'•»«'"«  'rado  in  ,„... 

of  .he  Now.YorU  L.  I™     "  ,'"°,-    ■^"'"^°™P'«io„ 
P'«e  stil,  further  advantal  s  bvf  '■"•',  ""'  ""•"'  '«  ""« 
winter  trade  with  ,he  sea  I,K  '^"■"'slung  an  avenue  tor 
»»  seasons  a  cheap  anf'™/"*"^  "  will  present  a. 
"dutiful  steamboat  forThe       °"'  """'  '"'  '™vel.    A 
""d  one  used  in  ,„„.;„„  oanal  r?^""'"  "''  P''»''<^»S«8, 
KhacaandCayngaBrite  "h    .       '  "■""  ""''^  ''^'ween 

"-Si.  and   the  city  of  W y^^.^"?'"'.  ^'■'>"™.  New. 

-a^rilVunrr,,::™'- ""'■■--onsis.s  in  it, 
""  )o%  hi„s  Which  SI  ?""" '"  ''^  »"  "•"■'-on  of 

---.^eenery„frrXett'r:;erpZ 


158 


WIJSTKIllf    TOUIi. 


ti        / 


the  luri^hts  \vhich  cncin'h*  it  tlirce  lnri,'c  fitroams  within 
the  viilii^o,  anJ  vvitliin  I'uur  miles  south,  several  others, 
fnll  with  rapid  descent  to  the  |)luin,  (orinin^  cascades  of 
Hurpassiiii^  hcutity  and  sul)lirnity.  In  u  single  dny,  n 
nuinher  ol'  water  lulls,  equulinj?  the  Tamed  Trenton  Falls, 
may  he  visited. 

The  lollowing  is  u  brief  description  ol' the  Fulls  nt  and 
nuur  Ithaca: 

The  falls  of  Fall  Cieek  are  near  the  villaj»c.  and  nroscen 
on  enli.'iini,'  tiie  village  hy  the  Auburn  staue  road.  Their 
heij^ht  is  lot)  feel,  with  the  same  breadth.  The  water 
of  this  creek,  collected  in  a  dam  above  the  full,  is  con- 
veyed  to  the  mills  below,  throuuh  a  tunnel  f)  feet  square, 
und  300  feet  lonst,  hewed  through  a  jutting  promontory 
rock,  at  a  (li>lance  of  40  feet  below  the  surl'ace  of  the 
ground.  The  curious  visiter  after  passing  through  the 
tunnel,  finds  liimsell'  in  the  bed  of  the  creek,  between 
rock  walls  more  than  100  feet  high.  The  view  from  this 
point  is  strand  uul  impressive.  The  visiter  proceeds  a 
short  distance  from  this,  up  the  rocky  bed  of  the  creek, 
until  liis  steps  are  arrested  by  another  splendid  fall  ;  the 
bank  presenting  the  most  curious  forms  and  the  most  sur- 
prising strata.  The  full  is  beautiful ;  it  is  not  so  high  as 
the  preceding,  but  it  is  more  wild  ;  t!ie  water  pours  over 
in  large  sheets,  commencing,  as  it  were,  from  the  top- 
most le  Ige,  and  then  spreading  out  wildly  and  boldly  be- 
low. Tiie  basin  into  which  the  water  falls  is  also  very 
picturesque. 

There  are  two  more  falls  beyond  these,  which,  with 
the  others,  make  the  descent  d3S  feet  in  the  short  space 
of  one  mile. 

On  the  Six  ?vlile  Creek,  Cascadilla  Creek  and  on  the 
Butter  nilk  Creek,  there  are  also  a  great  number  of  beau- 
tiful aud  romantic  falls,  uU   worthy  of  particular  notice 


WKSTKRN    TOUn. 


1.^9 


within 

\(1<'S    of 

«liiy»  »* 
n  Full», 

i  at  nwA 

nrcspcn 

,     TlH'ir 

lie  wuler 

,  is  con' 

t  square. 

)inonlory 

,ce  of  the 

ough  the 
between 
Vom  this 

roeeels  a 
le  creek, 
fall  ;  the 
luost  sur- 
o  high  a» 
ours  over 
the  top- 
oldly  be- 
also  very 

|ich,  with 
^ort  space 

iiA  on  the 

of  beau- 

lar  notice 


»nd  cqiml  td  anylliinj»  in  this  country.     Those  arc  all  near 

the  villiii;(!. 

On  th(!  Five  Mile  ('reek,  wliirh  is  four  miles  south 
from  Itliiicii,  is  (ii>e  of  the  most  inlcrc.stitva:  ciiluraots  in 
the  country,  suipiisseil  by  nom*  here  enumerated. 

At  (I(»(Kluin',-i  Point  tlu-re  is  still  another  lull,  called 
the  Tn'.'lii-iinic.  Tl  's  point  is  a  i)la<e  where  the  steam- 
boat lands  daily.  'I'lie  ravine  is  usi-ended  I'or  about  a 
quarter  id"  ;i  mile,  and  then  the  eye  is  amiized  with  a 
fall  of  Wilier  (d"  200  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  a 
breadth  id*  20  feet,  and  banks  of  ;{<)0  feet  hijjh. 

On  f,'oinQ[  south  from  Ithaca  you  lake  the  Ithaca  and 
Owejjo  UuilrDad  fur  Owejjjo,  dist'inl  ;{()  miles,  where  you 
reach  the  line  of  the  New-York  and  l'',rie  llailroad. 

OwK(io  is  a  pleasant  village,  situated  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  Sus(iii(dmnua  river,  and  is  destined,  as  the  point  of 
union  of  the;  Ithaca  and  Owego,  and  tlie  I\'ew-Ycrk  and 
Erie  llailroaiis,  to  be  a  place  of  importance.  The  Owcgo 
Creek  supplies  it  with  a  valuable  water  pouer.  From 
this  place  you  take  conveyances  and  descend  southwes- 
terly the  SuMiuehanna  river,  to  the  village  ol"  Athens,  in 
the  state  of  Pennsylvania,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Sus- 
quehanna and  Chemunj:;  rivers ;  and  from  this  i)oint 
changing?  your  course  northwesterly  you  ascend  the  latter 
stream  to  the  village  of  Filmira,  situated  at  its  point  ol' 
union  with  the  Chemung  canal,  which  unites  the  waters 
of  the  Chemung  river  with  Seneca  lake,  32  miles  west 
of  Owego,  the  entire  route  being  along  the  line  of  the  New 
York  and  Erie  Railroad.  There  is  not  probably  in  any 
part  of  New-York,  a  route  so  abounding  in  varied  beauties 
of  6oft  and  pastoral,  sublime  and  mountain  scenery  as 
this.     All  tr.vellers  agree  in  saying   that  this  portion  of 


r 


■  1 


tir 


> 


IGO 


WKSTEUW    TO  til 


the  tour  would  amply  repay  them  for  their  divergence 
froju  tlie  old  line  of  travel. 

The  village  of  Elmira  is  another  of  those  beautiful 
places  which,  by  the  enterprise  of  our  yeomanry  have 
sprung  up  far  from  the  great  travelled  roads,  unknown 
because  unseen,  and  yet  from  its  position  and  local  ad- 
vantages, will  soon  be  a  large  and  ipiportant  place. 

From  Elmira  by  carriage  you  traverse  northerly  the 
route  of  the  Chemung  Canal,  19  miles,  to  the  village  of 
Jefferson,  oa  the  inlet  of  the  Seneca  Lake,  where  the 
steamer  receives  you,  and  carrying  you  through  this  sheet 
of  water,  in  every  respect  the  equal  of  its  sister  Cayuga, 
lands  you  at  the  beautiful  . iJlage  of  Geneva,  on  the 
^'rani  route,  15  miles  west  from  the  point  where  you  com- 
menced the  TouK  OF  Tiin  Minoi,E  Lakes.* 


I'; 


The  village  of  Seneca  Falls,  15  miles  west  of  Au- 
burn, and  187  miles  from  Albany,  is  advantageously  situa- 
ted on  both  sides  of  the  outlet  of  Seneca  lake;  it  was  in- 
corporated in  1831,  and  now  contains  about  3,000  inha- 
bitants ;  400  dwellirg  houses ;  5  churches  of  different  de- 
nominations; 1  cotton  factory,  and  8  flouring  mills.  In 
this  neighborhood  are  large  quantities  of  gypsum,  which 
is  here  ground  and  sent  to  different  parts  of  the  country. 
The  Cayuga  and  Seneca  cnnal  and  the  Auburn  and  Ro- 
chester Railroad,  pass  through  this  village.  The  water 
power  afforded  by  the  Seneca  outlet  is  very  great;  the 
descent  from  Seneca  to  Cayaga  lake,  a  distance  of  12 
miles,  being  about  75  feet.  The  stream  is  abundant,  and 
not  subject  to  fresheis,  scarcely  ever  having  a  rise  to 
exceed  two  feet;  the  hydraulic  power  is  great,  and  is  but 

'  Truvcllcrs  from  the  west,  on  their  return  from  Niagara,  will  undcr- 
c-tanrl  that  the  reverse  of  the  above  proposed  tour  is  to  pe  adopted,  com- 
mencing at  Geneva,  and  ending  at  East  Cayuga 


I 


!1 


I A 


WKSTERN    TOUK. 


161 


rgence 


jautiful 
■y  have 
[ilinown 
3cal  ad- 
:e. 

erly  the 
illage  of 
here  the 
lis  sheet 
Cayuga, 
,  on  the 
you  com- 


t  of  Au. 
sly  situa- 
t  was  in- 
00  inha- 
erent  de- 
ills.     In 
ft,  which 
country, 
and  Re- 
Ihe  water 
eat;  the 
ce  of  12 
ant,  and 
rise  to 
d  IS  but 

|\vill  under- 
jplcd,  com- 


parlially  employed.  At  Seneca  Falls,  there  is  a  descent 
of  upwards  ot  40  feet  within  the  distance  of  one  mile. 
Here  are  five  locks  in  the  Cayu}:a  and  Seneca  canal, 
which  unites  with  the  Erie  canal  at  Montezuma. 

Watkkloo,  191  miles  west  of  the  city  of  Albany,  is 
handsomely  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  outlet  of  Seneca 
lake,  which  is  in  part  used  as  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca 
canal.  It  was  incorporated  in  1824,  and  now  contains 
about  2,600  inhabitants,  350  dwelling  houses,  a  court- 
house and  jail,  being  a  half  shire  town  with  Ovid  ;  1 
Presbyterian,  1  Episcopal,  1  Baptist,  and  1  Methodist 
church  ;  an  academy ;  8  hotels  and  taverns  ;  1  banking 
house;  25  dry  goods,  grocery  and  other  stores  ;  1  large 
woollen  factory,  which  manufactures  over  200,000  pounds 
of  wool  annually,  and  5  flouring  mills,  containing  18  run 
of  stone.  The  fall  of  water  at  this  place  is  about  16 
feet.  In  this  immediate  vicinity  are  quarried  large  quan- 
tities of  limestone,  extensively  used  for  building.  In  ad- 
dition to  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca  canal,  the  Auburn  and 
Rochester  Railroad  passes  through  this  village,  which  is 
about  equi-distant  between  Cayuga  and  Seneca  lakes. 

Geneva,  27  miles  west  of  Auburn,  and  191  miles  from 
Albany,  is  beautifully  situated  near  the  foot,  or  north 
end  of  Seneca  lake,  on  the  western  side.  The  principal 
part  of  the  village  which  is  devoted  to  the  residences  oi  the 
inhabitants,  lies  upon  a  ridge  along  the  banks  of  the  lake, 
and  elevated  about  100  feet  above  its  surface,  while  the 
business  part  extends  to  the  plain  which  lies  at  the  foot 
of  the  lake,  and  but  little  elevated.  The  land  west  of 
the  village  is  peculiarly  formed,  consisting  of  a  succession 
of  ridges  parallel  to  the  lake,'and  rising  higher  and  high- 
er  for  some  distance,  commanding  a  view  of  its  waters, 
as  if  formed  for  choice  residences  in  this  region  of  beau- 
ty.   The  village  was  incorporated  in  1812,  and  now  con- 


162 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


lis 


tains  about  3,600  inhabitants,  and  500  dwelling  houses- 
The  G<Mieva  College,  attached  to  which  are  three  build- 
ings, and  the  Geneva  Lyceum,  are  located  here;  and  6 
churches  of  dillerent  denominations.  The  new  Episco- 
pal church  is  a  splendid  edifice,  erected  at  a  cost  of  about 
$30,000.  The  accommodation  for  strangers  at  Geneva 
is  very  good,  tliere  beitjg  several  well  kept  hotels;  and 
carriages  arc  always  in  readiness  at  the  railroad  depot 
and  steamboat  landing,  to  convey  passengers  to  any  part 
of  the  viUagc.  Two  or  three  steamboats  i)ly  regularly 
on  the  lake,  running  daily  up  and  down  between  Geneva 
and  tlic  village  of  Jeflerson  at  the  head  of  the  lake  ;  con- 
necting with  stages  to  Elmira  and  Corning  ;  and  at  the 
latter  place  witli  the  railroad  to  Ulossburg.  in  Pennsyl- 
vania. A  boat  is  employed  in  towing  canal  boats,  wliich 
come  to  Geneva  by  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca  canal,  a 
branch  of  the  Erie  canal,  and  thence  to  the  villages  on 
the  lake,  and  to  the  canal  which  connects  this  lake  with 
Crooked  Lake,  and  the  Chemung  canal,  leading  from 
Jefferson  to  the  Chemung  river  at  Elmira,  and  by  the  feeder 
to  Corning.  By  the  Blossburg  Railroad  and  the  canal  just 
mentioned,  a  large  quantity  of  coal  from  the  Blossburg 
mines,  passes  through  this  village  on  its  Avay  to  market. 
Near  the  canal  basin  at  the  iiortliern  part  of  the  village. 
passes  the  Auburn  and  Rochester  Railroad;  and  probably 
ere  many  years  the  intercourse  now  not  diflicult  by  the 
canals,  stages  and  the  Blossburg  Railroad,  with  the  sys- 
tem of  canals  and  railroads  in  Pennsylvania,  will  open 
through  the  Seneca  lake  which  is  never  frozen,  an  easy 
and  direct  communication  with  the  south.  The  meri- 
dian of  the  capital  nt  Washington  passes  through  the 
lake  about  half  a  mile  east  of  Geneva. 

Geneva  College,  received  its  charter  in  1825,  and   is  a 
flourishing  institution.     The  college   buildings,  three  in 


WESTERN    TOUll. 


163 


ig  houses 
ree  build- 
ire;  and  6 
w  Episco- 
;t  of  about 
it  Geneva 
otels  ;  and 
road  depot 
0  any  part 
regularly 
en  Geneva 
lake  ;  ccn- 
and  at  the 
n  Pennsyl- 
)ats,  which 
a  caiial,  a 
villages  on 
5  lake  with 
ading  from 
the  feeder 
canal  just 
Blossburg 
Ito  market. 
he  village. 
1,1  probably 
[cult  by  the 
111  the  sys- 
will  open 
[mi,  an  easy 
rrhe  meri- 
lirough  the 

,  and   is  a 
\s,  three  in 


number,  arc  beautifully  situated  on  Main-slrcet,  over- 
looking Seneca  lake.  A  large  and  handpome  buikling 
is  about  being  erected  on  the  same  street  for  the  use  of 
the  meJical  department. 

Senkca  Lakk,  is  one  of  the  largest  as  well  as  the 
most  bcaulii'ul  of  the  numerous  lakes,  which  so  much 
adorn  western  New-York.  It  extends  from  south  to 
north  40  miles,  and  varies  in  width  from  2  to  4  miles.  It 
is  very  deep,  and  in  consequence  is  never  frozen.  The 
depth  is  net  accurately  known,  but  was  found  a  year  cr 
two  ago  to  be  !)60  feet  about  12  miles  a)  ove  the  outlet. 
The  lands  about  the  south  end  of  the  lake  are  high  and 
picturesque  ;  about  tlie  northern  less  elevate  1,  but  i;ndu- 
lating,  and  coveresl  with  the  richest  crops,  with  here  and 
there  remains  of  the  magnificent  i>rinnlive  forest.  The 
outlet  of  the  lake  is  at  the  northeastern  angle,  and  the 
discharge  of  waters  furnishes  an  ample  supply  of  power 
to  the  manufactories  of  Waterloo  and  Senaca  Falls, 
which  flourishing  villages  are  situated,  the  former  about 
six  and  the  latter  ten  miles  from  the  lake.  Seneca  lake 
receives  tl;e  water  of  Crooked  lake  at  Dresden,  about  12 
miles  above  Geneva.  The  outlet  of  Crooked  l:.ke  is 
about  6  miles  in  length,  and  the  descent  to  Seneca  lake 
about  270  feet.  A  canal  constructed  along  this  outlet  con- 
nects the  two  lakes.  Seneca  lake  does  not  so  much  ul?  und 
with  fish  as  some  of  the  other  lakes,  probably  in  cense- 
quence  of  the  depth  and  coldness  of  the  waters.  There 
are  found  in  it,  however,  white-fish,  pike,  pickerel, 
trout,  perch,  herring,  rock-bass,  striped-bass,  chub,  sun- 
fish,  cat-fish,  eels,  shiners,  mullet,  &c. 

Lyons,  1G  miles  north  of  Geneva,  is  eligibly  situated 
on  the  Erie  canal,  181  miles  west  of  Albany  by  mail 
route.  It  was  incorporated  in  1831,  and  now  ccntaiDS 
about   1,800  inhabitants,   300  dwelling  houses,  a  court- 


r 


164 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


i    . 


■J  I 


'      il 


'li 


house  and  jail,  county  clerk's  and  surrogate's  office  ;  1 
Presbyterian,  1  Episcopal,  1  Methodist,  1  Baptist  and  1 
Lutheran  church.  Stages  leave  Lyons  daily  for  Geneva, 
Rochester,  Sodus  Point  and  Syracuse,  in  addition  to  com- 
modious canal  packets  which  pass  and  repass  twice 
daily. 

The  village  of  Clyde,  is  9  miles  east  of  Lyons,  on  the 
Erie  canal.  It  was  incorporated  in  1835,  and  now  con« 
tains  about  1,000  inhabitants. 

Newark,  7  miles  west  of  Lyons,  and  on  the  Erie  ca^ 
nal,  is  an  active  place  of  business,  and  contains  about 
1,200  inhabitants. 

Palmyra,  15  miles  west  of  Lyons,  on  the  Erie  canal, 
was  incorporated  in  182S,  and  now  contains  about  2,000 
inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  an  elevated  and  dry  piece 
of  ground,  in  the  midst  of  a  delightful  wheat  growing 
country.  The  main  street  is  over  one  mile  and  a  quarter 
in  length,  and  at  each  end  touches  the  canal ;  it  is  inter- 
sected by  cross  streets  of  ample  width,  many  of  which 
are  ornamented  by  beatiful  shade  trees. 
t|..  On  leaving  Geneva,  going  west  by  railroad,  you  incline 
to  the  noith,  passing  through  a  fine  section  of  country, 
for  which  the  county  of  Ontario  is  justly  celebrated. 

Vienna,  8  miles  from  Geneva,  is  a  flourishing  place, 
on  the  outlet  of  the  Canandaigua  lake,  at  the  junction  of 
Flint  creek.  There  are  two  settlements  about  one  mile 
apart,  known  as  East  Vienna  and  West  Vienna. 

Clifton  Springs,  3  miles  west  of  Vienna,  are  resorted 
to  for  their  medicinal  properties,  and  have  become  some- 
what celebrated.  They  are  sulphur  springs,  of  a  similar 
character  to  many  others  to  be  found  in  Western  New- 
York. 

Short's  Mills,  is  the  name  given  to  a  small  settle- 
ment on  the  line  of  the  railroad,  5  miles  further  west. 


office  ;  1 
ist  and  1 
Geneva, 
n  to  com- 
iss   twice 

IS,  on  the 
now  con« 

Erie  ca- 
dns  about 

Irie  canal, 

.out  2,000 

dry  piece 

growing 

a  quarter 
it  is  inter- 

of  which 

)u  incline 
country, 
ated. 

place, 
inction  of 
one  mile 

I  resorted 
me  some- 
a  similar 
n  New- 
ill  settle- 
west. 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


165 


Canandaigua,  is  delightfully  situated  near  the  foot  of 
Canandaigua  lake,  222  miles  west  of  Albany  by  railroad. 
It  was  incorporated  in  1815,  and  now  contains  about 
2,700  inhabitants,  350  dwelling  houses,  a  court-house, 
jail,  surrogate's  office,  county  clerk's  office  and  town 
house  ;  1  Presbyterian,  1  Episcopal,  1  Baptist,  1  Metho- 
dist, and  1  African  church;  2  banking  houses  and  a 
saving's  bank.  No  place  in  the  stale  probably  exceeds 
this  village  as  a  desirable  place  of  residence}  being  sur- 
rounded by  a  rich  agricultural  district  abounding  in  al- 
most every  luxury  for  which  Western  New-York  is  so 
justly  celebrated.  On  the  south,  at  a  short  distance,  lies 
Canandaigua  lake,  with  its  cultivated  shores,  in  full  view 
of  this  abode  of  taste  and  opulence. 

Canandaigua  Lake,  is  a  most  beautiful  sheet  of  wa- 
ter, 18  miles  long,  and  from  1  to  1^  miles  wide,  lying 
mostly  in  the  county  of  Ontario,  and  a  small  part  in 
Yates  county  ;  it  is  surrounded  by  well  cultivated  lands, 
celebrated  for  their  fertility,  diversified  by  charming  sce- 
nery. Its  waters,  which  are  deep  and  clear,  abound  with 
fish  of  different  kinds,  and  are  elevated  670  feet  above 
the  Atlantic  ocean.  Canandaigua  Outlet  flows  northeast 
into  Flint  creek,  thence  into  Clyde  and  Seneca  r'ver  j  all 
of  which  are  important  mill  streams. 

The  village  of  Victor,  is  9  miles  west  of  Canandaigua, 
ond  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  railroad. 

PiTTSFORD,  12  miles  further,  is  on  the  line  of  the  Erie 
canal,  near  its  intersection  with  the  railroad.  It  was  in- 
corporated in  1827,  and  now  contains  about  700  inhabi* 
tants. 

Brighton,  4  miles  east  of  Rochester,  is  also  on  the 
ine  of  the  Erie  canal. 


ir 


166 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


!'     ? 


The  City  ok  RociiESTEn,  251  miles  from  All)any, 
by  railroad,  is  advantageously  situated  on  both  si  les  of  the 
Genesee  river,  an  I  on  the  line  of  the  Krie  canal.  0  miles 
south  of  Lake  Ontario,  with  which  the  Cenesee  affords 
good  water  communication  for  sleamhoat'-s  and  schooners 
from  the  landing  at  Carthage,  three  miles  below  lh(>  centre 
of  the  city.  It  was  chartered  as  a  city  in  1334,  and  is  di- 
vidt  d  into  5  wards,  being  governed  by  a  Mayor,  Recorder 
and  board  of  Aldermen.  It  contained  in  IMO,  20,202 
inliabitants,  mostly  engaged  in  mercantile  and  manufac- 
turing pursuits  ;  about  2,000  dwelling  houses  ;  a  court- 
iiouse.  jail  and  county  cleric's  office  ;  2  public  markets,  6 
banking  houses,  1  saving's  bank,  1  mutual  insurance  com- 
i^ii.'i  ;  5  Presbyterian,  2  Epispcopal,  2  Baptist,  2  Metho- 
dist, 2  Roman  Catholic,  1  Unitarian,  1  Covenanters,  2 
Friends'  meeting  houses,   1  Univcrsalist.  1  Lutheran  and 

1  Christian  church;  a  museum;  a   collegiate    institute; 

2  female   seminaries  ;  2   orphan  asylums,   and  2  arcade 
buildings. 

Steamboats  arrive  and  depart  daily  during  the  season 
of  navigation,  from  the  landing^on  the  south  of  the  city, 
and  from  Charlotte  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Besides 
the  steamboat,  canal  and  railroad  routes,  diverging  from 
this  place,  several  lines  of  daily  stages  also  centre  here, 
running  to  different  places  for  the  accommodation  of  tra- 
vellers. 

The  natural  and  artificial  curiosities  of  Rochester  and 
its  vicinity  are  well  won;  y  of  notice.  The  most  impor- 
tant of  them  are  the  Genesee  Falls,  whicb  .t.re  seen  to  the 
greatest  advantage  from  the  east  side  of  tlie  river,  a  short 
distance  belov/  the  railroad  bridge  ;  the  noble  aqueduct 
for  the  enlarged  canal,  is  a  splendid  specimen  of  ma- 
son work  ;  other  falls  and  bridges,  together  with  the 
Mount  Hope  Ccinclery,  to  the  south  of  the  eity,  all  giv- 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


167 


Albany, 

lesofthe 

l.G  miles 

ce  alfords 

schooners 

the  centre 

iinl  is  di- 

,  llecorilcr 

10,  20,202 
manufac- 
;  a  court- 

[narUcts,  6 

ranee  com- 

,  2  Metho- 

jnanters,  2 

Iheran  and 
institute  ; 

^tl  2  arcade 

the  season 
•f  the  city, 
Besides 
•rging  from 
[cntre  here, 
tiun  of  tra- 

Ichester  and 
nost  impor- 
s,ecn  to  the 
^er.  a  short 
lie  aqueduct 
Inon  of  ma- 
r   with  the 
ty,  all  giv- 


ing to  Rochester  many   points  of  attraction   well  worthy 
the  attention  of  the  traveller. 

The  hotels  are  numerous,  and  most  of  them  well  kept, 
affording  every  desirable  luxury  in  abundance. 

To  tlie  immense  water  power  which  Rochester  posses- 
ses, by  iHjpans  of  a  succession  of  falls  in  t!ie  Genesee 
river,  may  be  justly  ascribed  her  rapid  growth  and  sub- 
stantial weallii.  There  are  now  within  the  limits  of  the 
city,  and  all  using  water  power,  21  (louring  mills,  with 
108  run  of  stones  ;  2  woollen  factories,  1  cotton  factory, 
1  wrought-iron  forge,  4  iron  foundries,  11  mnchine 
shops,  2  brass  foundries,  1  plaining  and  flooring  mill,  1 
veneering  mill,  2  paper  mills,  1  oil  mill,  4  tobacco  and 
snufl"  factories,  7  saw  mills,  1  pail  factory,  3  pump  fac- 
tories. 2slioe-pcg  factories,  2  edge-tool  factories,  1  thresh- 
ing machine  and  fanning  mill  factory,  1  chair  factory,  2 
last  factories,  2  stave  manufactories,  1  tash  factory,  3 
wood  turning  establishments,  4  tanneries,  3  distilleries 
and  3  breweries.  Within  the  limits  of  the  city,  a  dis- 
tance of  3  miles,  the  total  fall  of  water  is  nearly  Sfu*  feet, 
affording  an  almost  inexhaustible  supply  ol Water  i)ower, 
which  is  but  partly  used.  The  immense  amount  of  llour 
manufactured  at  this  place  alone,  gives  "mpli  yment  to  a 
great  number  of  persons.  These  nulls  are  capable  of 
making  ;),000  barrels  of  flour  per  day,  consuming,  when 
under  full  headway,  about  25,000  bushels  of  wheat  daily. 
There  are  upwards  of  twenty  forwarding  establishments 
connected  with  the  trade  of  the  Erie  and  Genesee  Valley 
canals,  besides  a  liinile ]  shipping  interest  on  Genesee 
river  and  Lake  Ontario. 


m- 


!S 


(^  ;  1 


n  s^'i 


5i    ■.: 

si         !i 


F      ii 


168 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


*       STAGES  LEAVING  ROCHESTER. 
Daily  Lines. 

1.  From  Rochester  to  Lockport,  via  Ridge  Road,  64 
miles;  usual  Aire,  $2.50;  connecting  nt  Lockport  with 
the  railroad  extending  to  Lewiston  and  Niagara  Falls. 

2.  Fi'tin  Rochester  to  Lockport,  via  Canal  itoute,  (52 
miles  ;  sual  fare,  $2.00.  Leaves  daily,  (Sunday's  ex- 
cepted.) 

3.  From  Rochester  to  Rath,  Steuben  Co.  via  Geneseo 
and  Dansville,  75  miles  ;  usual  fare,  $3.00  ;  connecting 
with  stages  running  to  Corning  and  Elmira. 

Tni-wEKKi.Y  Lines. 

4.  From  Rochester  to  Olean,  Cattarai:,'j;us  Co.  via 
Mount  Morris  and  Angelica,  96  miles  ;  usual  fare,  $1 .00. 
Leaves  Rochester  Tuesdays,  Tluirsdays,  and  Saturdays; 
leaves  Olean,  Mondays,  Wednesdays  and  Fridays. 

5.  From  Rochester  to  Oswego,  76  miles  ;  usual  fare, 
$4.00.  Leaves  Rochester,  Tuesdays,  Thursdays  and 
Saturdays,  at  6JA  M.,  leaves  Oswego  on  Mondays, 
Wednesdays  and  Fridays,  at -1  A.  M. 

The  Genesee  Valley  Canal,  coinmciices  at  Rochester, 
and  ascends  the  rich  valley  of  the  Genesee,  being  now 
finished  to  Mount  Morris,  a  distance  of  37  miles,  with  a 
branch  to  Dansville,  a  total  length  of  52  miles.  Passage 
boats  run  daily  on  this  canal  to  the  above  places,  stop- 
ping at  the  intermediate  landings  on  the  route. 

Tiie  most  noted  place  of  resort  in  the  \'alley  of  the 
Genesee,  is  Avon  Springs,  20  miles  south  of  Roches- 
ter. The  village  is  delightfully  situated  about  half  a 
mile  east  of  the  right  bank  of  the  Genesee  river,  and 
two  miles  from  the  Genesee  Valley  canal,  on  an  elevated 
tfrrace  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  rivei",  commaml- 

"  he  rich  Genesee  Valley  and 


iwti 


prospect 


Mtji- 


f 


urrouading  country. 


1   I 


WE8TCRW    TOUR. 


169 


lad,  64 
rt  with 
^nlls. 
uto,  02 
ly's  ex- 

Tcneseo 
meeting 


ro.  via 
■,  $1.00. 
turilays ; 

^al   fare, 

lys  and 
ondays, 

ichcstcr. 
ng  now 
\vith  a 
Passage 
s,  stop- 

y  nf  the 
lloches-     ,^^ 
it  hnir  a'  V  \ 
/or,  and 
elevated 
imnmiul- 
Uey  ani\ 


Connected  with  tliti  villuge,  on  the  sovithwest,  ore  the 
justly  famed  medicinal  springs,  giving  oelobrity  to  the 
place.  The  two  principal  springs  are  distinguished  as 
tlie  Upper  and  Lower  Springs,  distant  from  each  other 
about  80  rod.s.  They  possess  similar  properties,  di/Tering 
only  in  the  relative  quantities  of  the  same  mineral  ingre- 
dients. Analysis  and  experience  have  fully  tested  the  sun- 
alive  properties  of  these  waters.  They  are  found  peculiar- 
ly efficacious  in  (disorders  of  the  digestive  organs,  rheuma- 
tic complaints  and  gout,  in  all  sorts  of  cutaneous  uflee- 
tions,  and  in  ovcry  kind  of  obstructions. 

There  are  several  well-kept  hotels  both  at  the  village 
nnd  near  the  Springs.  The  most  noted  are  the  Avon  Ea- 
gle Hotel,  kept  by  ().  Conistock  ;  the  Avon  Hotel,  or 
Hosmer  House,  kept  by  H.  R.  Phillips  ;  the  Knicker- 
bocker Hall,  kept  by  D.  Knickerbocker,  and  the  Spring  Ho- 
tel, kept  N.  Houghton.  The  two  latter  are  situated  near 
the  springs,  the  two  former  in  the  village.  The  accom- 
modations for  bathing  are  also  extensive  and  handsome- 
ly arranged,  there  being  three  establishments  ;  altogethe/ 
affording  great  attractions  not  only  for  the  invalid  but  for 
the  seeker  of  pleasure. 

i      The  following  is  an  analysis  of  the  lower  spring,  which 
is  the  most  esteemed  for  drinking. 
One  gallon  contains  : 

Carbonate  of  lime, 29.33  grains. 

Chloride  of  calcium, 8.41       *' 

Sulphate  of  lime, 57.44      " 

Sulphate  of  magnesia, 49.61       " 

Sulphate  of  soda, 13.75      " 

J    Amount  of  saline  ingredients,  ... .    15S  52      *' 

Carbonic  acid,. 3.02  cubic  inches. 

Per  volume,  sulphuretted  hyilrngt'H 

gHB,  .....«,«,t««i>i«<<(>iiiMi  i0-n» 

NiUoi(«MlHlli,iiMM«MMMMMIlM      5.4»       ((  <( 

Oxygua  gun, 1)6     "  " 

ai 


170 


WBSTKRJI    TOUn. 


M       !l 


The  temperature  of  ilicse  waters  is  'IS  degrees  of  Fah- 
renheit;  specific  gravity,  10.018  j  quantity  of  water  dis> 
charge!,  54  gallons  per  minute. 

On.returning  from  Avon  to  Rochester,  the  traveller  has 
a  choice  of  two  conveyances,  by  ranal  boats  or  stages. 

There  are  several  modes  of  conveyance  from  Roches- 
ter, west  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls.  The  route  by 
railroad  to  Buffalo,  74  miles  is  the  most  expeditious. 
The  canal  route,  r>5  miles,  is  a  cheap  and  comfortable 
mode  of  travelling  ;  in  addition  to  which,  steamboats  run 
daily,  during  the  season  of  navigation,  from  Carthage, 
3  rniles  below  the  centre  of  the  city,  to  Lewiston,  and 
thence  passengers  are  conveyed  by  railroad  cars  to  Niaga* 
ra  Falls  and  Buffalo. 

Railroad  Route  rnoM  Rochester  to  Buffalg. 
The  Tonawanda  iRui/roai,  extends  west  from  Rochester, 
through  the  villages  of  Churchville  and  Bergen. 

Batavia.  32miits  vs est  of  Rochester,  and  283  from 
Albany,  by  raihwA  i  s  »ute,  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
a  plain,  through  whicii  ffows  the  TonawanJa  creek  ;  it 
was  incorporated  in  *  ^3,  and  now  contains  about  2,000 
inhabitants,  300  dwelling  houses,  a  court-house,  ynl  and 
county  clerk's  office,  a  state  arsenal,  the  general  land  of* 
fice  of  the  Holland  Land  Company ;  1  Presbyterian,  1 
Episcopal,  2  Baptist  and  1  Methodist  church  ;  a  female 
seminary  in  a  flourishing  condition  ,*  2  banking  houses, 
and  7  hotels  and  taverns.  Stages  rui.  Iicm  Batavia  south, 
to  Warsaw;  and  north,  to  Albion  and  Lock  port. 

The  village  of  Attica,  1 1  miles  from  Batavia,  and  oe 
the  TonawanJa  creek,  is  the  western  terminus  of  the 
Tonawanda  Railroad.  It  is  an  active  place  of  business, 
containing  about  800  inhabitants. 

The  Attica  and  Buffalo  Railroad,  is  31  miles  long, 
terminating  at  ihe  city  of  Buffalo.  The  trtal  distance 
from  Albany  to  BufFaio,  by  railroad  route,  is  325  miles. 


VRSTBRN    TOUR. 


171 


Canal  Route  from  Rochester  to  Buffalo. 

Brockport,  20  miles  west  of  Rochester,  and  2S9  by 
canal  from  Albany,  is  han.isomely  situateJ  on  the  Erie 
cannl ;  it  was  incorporated  in  1S29,  and  now  contains 
about  2,000  inhabitants,  250  dwelling  houses,  '  sby> 
terian,  1  Episcopal,  and  I  Methodist  churrb  ««i4- 

lege  building  now  used  as  an  academy. 

The  village  of  Holley,  5  miles  west  of  r-  ^ 

contains  about  350  inhabitants.  Sandy  Creek  Hovrs 
throu&;h  this  place,  over  which  the  canal  passes  by  means 
of  an  embankment,  75  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  stream, 
which  is  conveyed  un  ler  it  by  a  culvert. 

Albion,  on  the  Erie  Canal,  CO  miles  from  PuflTalo,  and 
304  miles  from  Albany,  by  canal  roule  ;  was  incorporated 
in  1S29,  and  now  contains  about  1,400  inhabitants.  200 
dwelHnj?  houses,  a  court-house,  jail  and  county  clerk's 
office  ;  2  banking  houses  ;  an  incorporated  academy  and 
Phipp's  fe;».ale  seminary,  both  in  a  flourishing  condition, 
to  each  of  which  is  nliached  large  brick  edifices  j  1  Pres- 
byterian,  1  Baptist  nnJ  1  Methodist  church  ;  3  toverns, 
18  stores  and  groceries,  7  ware- houses  anj  I  flouring  mill. 
Here  is  a  cannl  collector's  office  and  a  convenient  landing. 

The  village  oi  Gaines,  1  or  2  miles  north  of  Albion, 
and  on  the  Ridge  Road,  was  incorporated  in  1832,  and 
now  contains  6  or  700  inhabitants. 

The  Alluvial  Way,  or  Ridge  Road,  is  a  work  of 
nature,  extending  from  the  Genesee  river,  near  Roches, 
ter,  to  the  Niagara  river,  near  Lewistcn.  It  is  a  gently 
curving  ridge  compose  1  of  leach  sand  and  gravel  stones, 
apparently  worn  smooth  by  the  action  of  water.  Its  ge-- 
neral  width  is  from  6  to  8  rods,  raise!  in  the  middle,  and 
the  top  presents  an  exoelleni  road,  called  the  *'Ridg« 
Road,"  exlenJing  upwards  of  80  miles,  beins.  from  6  to 
10  miles  south  of  the  present  shore  o!  Lake  Ontario,  of 
which  it  once  no  doubt  i'ormed  the  beach. 


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172 


VTEST^RV    TOUR. 


Knowlesvillk,  7  miles  west  of  Albion,  is  an  incor. 
poratei  village  on   the  line  of  the  Erie  canal,  and  con» 

tsiins  about  500  inhabitants.^!,^.!  ^urf  m    yfuj'i:  f    raoji  UBis* 

Medina,  4  miles  further  west,  on  the  Erie  canal,  was 
incorporate  J  in  1S32,  and  now  contains  about  000  inhabi* 
tants,  130  dwelling  houses,  and  several  mills  and  manu>, 
facturing  establishments. 

MiDDLEFiOBT,  17  milcs  wcst  of  Albion,  contains  abont 
400  inhabitants.  .i-!^^'i'       .,,««»i.f-  '■fitr,A'^>  •ut't^fr^tf^n 

^Gasport,  5  miles  further  west,  lakes  its  name  from 
several  mineral  burning  springs  of  some  celebrity,  situat- 
ed near  the  line  of  the  canal.  The  gas  is  used  for  do- 
iqestic  purposes. 

The  village  of  Lockfort  is  on  the  Erie  canal,  31  miles 
northeast  of  Buffalo,  and  from  Albany  by  canal  route, 
333  miles.  It  was  incorporated  in  1327,  and  now  con- 
ts^ns  about  6,500  inhabitants,  800  dwelling  houses,  a 
court-house,  jail  and  county  clerk's  office  ;  ^  Presbyte- 
rian, I  Congregational,  2  Episcopal,  1  Baptist,  1  Metho- 
dist, 1  Roman  Catholic,  1  Lutheran  and  1  African  church ; 
besides  an  Orthodox  and  Hicksite  race  ^  g  house. 

The  hydraulic  power  derived  from  the  surplus  waters 
of  the  Erie  Canal  at  this  place,  is  sufficient  to  propel  at 
least  300  run  of  mill  stones,  f^nd  is  admirably  located  for 
an  extensive  laanufacturing  town.  In  addition  to  the 
Erie  canal  which  passes  through  the  centre  of  the  village, 
the  Lockport  and  Niagara  Falls  Railroad  commences 
at  this  place,  and  runs  to  Niagara  Falls,  24  miles  ;  the 
Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  Railroad  extends  a  further 
distance  of  22  miles  to  the  city  of  Buffalo,  affording  a 
speedy  communication  for  travellers  visiting  the  Falls 
and  Buffalo.  Here  are  now  re-building  ten  combined 
locks,  to  be  constructed  of  lime  rock  in  the  most  finished 
style  of  masonry,  to  acccmmodate  the  enlarged  Erie  C9*{^| 


.'hfiil  S' 


I  j^dnh  or,  i';no  j!  ihu^ff 


:i      ^ 


.'--i^- 


WBSTIBRN    TOUR. 


173 


nal.  Lockport  has  sprung  up  ahd  bccothe  ene  of  our 
largest  inland  villages  since  the  compY^tibn  of  the  above 
canal,  deriving  its  name  from  the  above  locks.  Here  is 
the  first  fall  of  water  between  thi^  'plac6  and  Lake  Erie, 
there  being  descent  of  about  60  f^et.  A  daily  line  of 
stages  run  from  this  place  to  Batavia,  and  to  Rochester 
by  the  ridge  road,  in  addition  to  daily  lines  of  canal 
packet  boats  running  east  and  west. 
«'  From  Lockport  to  Lewiston,  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  and 
Buffalo,  travellers  are  speedi  y  taken  by  railroad  ;  the  ca- 
nal boats  though  slower  are  cheap  and  comfortable.  The 
principal  villages  through  which  the  Erie  canal  passes 
from  Lockport  to  Bufi'alo,  are  Tonawanda,  19  miles 
distant,  and  where  the  line  of  the  canal  approaches 
the  Niagara  river,  and  Black  Rock,  3  miles  from  Buf- 
falo. Here  is  a  long  stone  pier  and  dam,  which^ 
answers  the  double  purpose  of  raising  the  water  of  the 
outlet  of  Lake  Erie,  so  as  to  feed  the  canal,  and  fur* 
nish  a  vast  amount  of  hydraulic  power. 

At  Buffalo,  364  miles  from  Albany  by  canal  route,  is 
the  terminus  of  the  Erie  canal.  Here  a  plan  has  been 
proposed  to  construct  an  extensive  basin,  to  accommodate 
the  immense  number  of  canal  boats  that  navigate  this  ar- 
tificial river,  connecting  the  waters  of  the  great  inland 
seas  of  America,  with  the  Atlantic  ocean.  ..  ^ 

The  United  States  government  is  constructing^b^tween 
Buffalo  and  Black  Rock,  an  extensive  and  strong  fortress/ 
on  a  scale  suitable  for  the  defence  of  «o  important  a  point. 
It  is  situated  on  a  rise  of  ground  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
north  of  the  city — that  is,  about  halfway  to  Black  Rock 
— and  nearly  opposite  to  the  site  of  Fort  Erie,  on  the 
Canada  side,  which  was  made  memorable  by  the  sortie' 
of  Gen.  Porter,  then  of  Black  Rock,  and  his  volunteers,' 
on  the  17th  of  August,  in  the  glorious  campaign  of  1814. 


174 


WEBTBRN   TOUR. 


J, 

I 


^k 


Niagara  Falls,  the  admiration  anl  wonder  of  all 
who  behold  them,  are  situated  in  the  Niagara  river,  about 
eiiui'distant  between  Lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  and  330 
miles  west  of  Albany,  by  the  most  usually  travelled  route. 
For  an  accurate,  well  drawn,  detailed  description  of  the 
Falls,  the  tourist  is  referred  to  "  Orr's  Pictorial 
Guide  to  Niagara  Fal!.s,"  published  in  1342.  inas* 
much  as  the  different  views,  features,  and  points  of  at* 
traction,  are  sufficicitly  numerous  and  interesting  to  form 
a  volume  of  themselves. 

The  following  extracts  written  in  the  summer  of  1843, 

are  here  inserted  to  guide  those  who  may  not  possess  the 

tbove  work.  i    ,,.,.-(  .r-.'-.-l'r-H   .-'i  h'i'J:'^j.l   »■"•!► 

"  Tkp  Falls  of  Niagara,  always  majestic  and  won* 

derful  for  their   power    over  the   imagination,    really 

teem    to  be  improving    in  grandeur.    The  truth    is, 

the  lover  of  nature,  the  tourist  in  search  of  the  pictur* 

esque,  or  the  patriot  'vho  to  these  attractions  would  add 

the  enjoyment  of  those  delicious  emotions  which  are  ex« 

fited  by  the  actual  presence  of  the  scenes  of  heroic  deeds, 

cannot  accomplish  the  true  object  of  a  vi«:t  to  this  spot— - 

Cannot  really  see  the  Falls  without  a  soionrn  of  several 

days  on  both  siJes  of  the  mighty  catara        Nothing  less 

will  enable  him  to  obtain  true  conceptions  ^i  :ts  surpassing 

grandeur  and  its  varied  magnificencp.    The  rapids  above 

— the  falls  themselves — iherapiJ.s  below — the  whirlpool— • 

the  vast  chasm  and  the  huge  liiies  of  precipice  walling  in 

the  river — all  these  should  be  severally  seen  and  studied. 

*'  On  this  magnificent  frontier,   it  should  also  be  re> 

membered,  are  various  other  localities  clustered  together 

and  belonging  to  history.     Fort  Niagara,  at  the  angle 

made  by  the  junction  of  the  river  and  Lake  Ontario,  on 

the  American  side— Fort  George,  on  the  Canada  side-^ 

Queenston  Heights,  also  on  the  Canada  shore,  mado 


der  of  all 
iver,  ftboat 
>,  and  330 
illed  route, 
tion  of  the 

PiCTORIAI. 

[342.  inas' 
ints  of  at* 

ng  to  furro 

If 

T  of  1843, 
>o»sess  the 

and  won* 
on,    really 
truth    is, 
he  pictur* 
would  add 
h  are  ex* 
oic  deeds, 
his  spot-— 
of  several 
thing  less 
urpassing 
lids  above 
lirlpoo!— 
vailing  in 
studied, 
so  be  re> 
together 
le  angle 
tario,  on 
da  side- 
re,  made 


Q 


CO 


O 


»d 


07 


'•'C 


H. 


Ill     ^ 

III 

11  1 

1  'i  i 

Ml 

w 


iw'XJ'' 


iA'i:     ' 


t^ 


fiiS 


-At 


-v  ■"  i«H 


<Ki*^ 


/ 


tit 

3 


■a  •' 


^W' 


il 


'w 


WSfTPBir    TOUA. 


memorable  by  the  gallantry  %n(l  steadiness  of  a  dstaefa. 
^  meat  oi  the  militia  of  this  Slate,  led  on  to  the  attack  by 
Solomon  Van  Rensselaer  and  enhanced  in  interest  by  the 
fall  of  Gen.  Brock,  the  pride  of  the  British  forces  theo  in 
Canada,  and  whose  monument,  though  shattered  by  the 
rufiiai  Lett,  is  about  to  be  rebuilt — Landy's  Lane,  also 
on  the  Canada  side,  and  not  far  from  the  Falls,  where, 
on  the  25th  of  July,  1S14,  was  fought  one  of  the  bloodiest 
battles  on  record — Chippewa,  a  little  up  stream,  iK^iere, 
on  the  5th  of  the  same  July,  an   American  force,  in  fiiir 
fight  and  open  field,  defeated  a  British  force  greatly  su* 
perior  in  numbers  and  drawn  from  the  veterans  of  Wei. 
lington,  who  had  conquered  the  conquerers  of  Europe — 
•all  these  historical  scenes  are  among  the  objects  which 
should  be  included  in  a  visit  to  the  Falls. 

"  The  Burning  Spring,  too,  on  the  Canada  side,  and 
the  Mineral  Springs,  otherwise  known  as  as  the  Belle 
Vue  Fountain,  on  our  side,  are  not  to  be  overlooked  nor 
undervalued,  as  helping,  each  in  its  own  way,  to  sus> 
tain  the  interest  of  the  rival  shores;  so  that  whether  we 
regard  the  grandeur  of  Nature's  works,  or  the  ex- 
citing emotions  called  forth  by  the  doings  of  men,  it  must 
be  conceded  that  the  Falls  of  Niagara  and  the  appurtt 
nances  thereunto  belonging,  possess  many  and  varied  at> 
tractions. 

"  As  to  hotels,  I  only  wish  all  who  are  pent  up  and 
pining  in  hot  and  stifling  cities,  could  be  transferred  to 
this  grandest  of  all  *  watering  places,'  that  they  might 
breathe  the  air  forever  fresh  and  kept  in  healthful  motion 
by  the  action  of  the  mighty  cataract,  and  that  they  might 
banquet  on  the  luxuries  provided  by  Messrs.  Whitney  & 
Son,  of  the  Cataract  House,  on  the  American  bank,  or 
by  C.  B.  Griffen  of  the  Clifton  House,  on  the  Cana- 
da bank.    The  Pavilion,  kept  by  Mr.  Christler,  is  also 


\ 


1.% ftiiiiiMil.i 


^J 


176 


WBITBHV   TOOB. 


4 


' 


•n  the  Canada  tide.  Besides  the  above,  there  are  sere* 
ral  well  kept  pabiie  houses  on  the  American  side  or  the 
river,  all  of  which  are  usually  thronged  with  visiters  dur- 
ii^  the  summer  months." 

The  following  expressive*  lines  were  penned  by  the  late 
Willis  Oatlord  Clark,  June,  1S36,  immediotely  after 
havin!{  passed  the  great  falling  sheet  of  water ;  to  the 
Tbrmination  Rock,  being  230  feet  behind  the  Great 
Horse-Shoe  Fall,  which  is  approached  from  the  Canada 
side : 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


■5i   ■;!..■'•;■? 


iutrp 


■^,'.'>:i 


•*  Here  apeaka  the  voice  or  God !    Let  man  be  dumb, 
Nor  vritii  hto  vain  apirings  hither  come  ; 
Thai  voice  Impela  these  hollow-sounding  floods, 
And  Ulie  a  pfeaeiice  fills  the  distant  wood& 
These  groaning  r>ck<«  the  Almighty's  flnger  piled, 
For  ages  here  His  painted  bow  has  smiled ; 

^  Marking  the  ebai^ra  and  the  chance  of  tim»— 


f 


Eternal— beaatllul   serf  no   sublime  I" 


,)i 


.i!,).r^r,v,! 


,!•;■ 


I  li  <T    !■ 


1  i,.    ,M*f-i 


■I  ■  .^  M'   .  li 


.:J'. 


:«  '■■>  ;• ' 


h 


sii^^-O 


(  1 


f.-i.' 


U-.ii  ...f    ■/. 


:    ''»• 


,!•    N, 


• 


.,     /     ■: 


y 


TaBLB  RooZ  FBCU  BBLOW,  on  IHB  Caxaoa  •iob. 


.Bui«  A<iAw,\y  *t»i*  Hc  f^tqttis  vf  ■Mr  ■/'jtait  sjh* 


iL 


m 


li  * 


.-J 


wBSTBRif  rroon.  "T 


m 


c 


Lewiston,  7  mile^  below  Thk  Falls,  is  situated  on 
the  cast  side  of  the  river,  opposite  Queenston  and  at  tha 
head  of  steamboat  navigation  ;  being  7  miles  from  Lake 
Ontario.  It  is  an  incorporated  village  and  contains  about! 
1,000  inhabitants.  Here  is  a  convenient  steamboat  lanA'!^ 
ingfrom  which  boats  ply  to  various  places  on  Lake  On- 
tario ;  a  commodious  horse  ferry  boat  also  plies  across 
the  Niagara  river  to  Queenston,  Canada.  A  branch 
railroad  extends  3  miles,  to  its  junction  with  the  Lock* 
port  and  Niagara  Fal's  Railroad,  affording  a  speedy  com> 
munlcation  with  Lockport,  Niagara  Falls  and  BulTalOi 
The  railroad,  steamboat  and  canal  route  from  Buffalo  W' 
Albany,  via  Niagara  Falls,  LewistoQ,  Oswego,  and  Sy^ 
racuse,  is  a  desirable,  cheap  and  speedy  mode  of  con* 
veyance  during  the  summer  months.  ,.-.,,i.^- -'.^^  ..,..<\4... 

Steamboats  leave  Lewiston  daily  for  Niagara,  7  mileir ; 
Hamilton,  56  miles ;  Toronto,  44  miles  ,*  Kingston,  200 
miles ;  Rochester,  80  miles,  and  Oswego,  130  miles,  con- 
necting with  other  lines  of  travel  at  the  above  places. 
On  the  arrival  of  the  Oswego  and  Toronto  boats,  raiU 
road  cars  immediately  convey  passengers  to  Buffalo,  via 
Niagart*  Falls,  a  distance  of  30  miles;  «'****^'«'*^  *'  ^'^  » 

A  dally  line  of  stages  run  from  opposite  Lewiston', 
through  Canada,  to  Detroit,  Michigan,  a  distance  of  262 
miles. 

Fort  Niagara,  7  miles  below  Lewiston,  lying  on  the^ 
American  shore  at  the  mouth  of  Niagara  river,  is  well 
worthy  of  a  visit  in  connection  with  the  ruins  of  Forf 
George,  on  the  Canadian  shore,  near  the  village  of  Ni^ 
agara.  In  1679,  M.  De  Salle,  the  explorer  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, in  the  service  of  France,  enclosed  the  spot 
on  which  the  fort  was  here  built  in  1725,  by  pallisades. 
In  1759,  it  was  taken  by  the  British  under  Sir  William' 
Johnson,  in  whose  hands  it  remained  until  1796,  when  it 


I      4| 


^ 


d  I: 


1 


m 


'WSCTBRir   TOUR. 


w«s  evacuated  anl  Kiven  up  to  the  United  States.  On  th« 
I9th  of  December,  1813,  it  was  again  taken  by  the  British 
by  surprise;  and  in  March,  1815,  again  surrendered  to 
the  Americans.  This  oU  fort  is  as  much  noted  for  being 
the  theatre  of  tyranny  and  crime  as  for  the  scenes  of 
military  exploits.  While  in  the  hands  of  the  French, 
there  is  ao  doubt  of  its  having  been  at  times  used  as  a 
prison.  In  its  close  and  impregnable  dungeons,  where 
light  was  not  admitted,  for  many  years,  there  remained 
clear  traces  of  the  ready  instruments  for  execution  or  for 
murder.  During  the  war  of  the  Revolution  it  M'as  the 
head<quarters  of  all  that  was  barbarous,  an  J  unrelenting 
and  cruel;  this  being  the  chief  rendezvous  of  a  savage 
horde  that  carried  death  and  destruction  into  the  remote 
American  settlements.  Of  late  years,  the  abd«ction  of 
William  Morgan,  who  was  taken  from  4be  jail  in  Canan* 
daigua,  and  conveyed  more  than  100  miles,  through  a 
populous  country  and  lodged  in  the  magazine  at  Fort 
Niagara,  where  he  was  kept  three  or  four  days,  and  then 
inhumanly  drowned — has  justly  tended  to  continue  its 
reputation  for  being  the  scene  of  tyranny  and  murder. 

For  a  description  of  places  in  Canada,  see  "Tou& 
THROUGH  Canada." 


i    .o  .    L 


The  City  op  Buffalo,  dist?*nt  from  Albany  294 
miles  by  nearest  route  ;  325  miles  by  railroad,  nnd  363 
miles  by  the  Erie  canal,  is  situated  at  the  head  of  Niaga* 
ra  river,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie,  and  at  the  foot  of  the 
great  chain  of  western  lakes,  and  is  the  point  where  the 
vast  trade  of  these  inland  seas  is  concentrated.  The 
site  of  the  city  is  one  of  much  beauty,  having  a  gentle 
southern  inclination  towards  the  lake.  The  harbor,  form* 
ed  by  Buffalo  creek,  lies  nearly  east  and  west  across  the 
toothem  part  of  the  city,  and  is  separated  from  Lake 
Erie  by  a  peninsula,  between  the  creek  and  the  lake.   Thif 


WEBTBRS  TOUB. 


179 


i.  On  tht 
he  British 
en  jered  to 
I  for  being 
s  scenes  of 
je  French, 
nsed  as  a 
>is,  where 
!  remained 
tion  or  for 
t  \\'as  the 
nrelenting 
'  a  savage 
:he  remote 
iductton  of 
in  Canaa* 
through  a 
p  at  Fort 
,  and  then 
mtinue  its 
turder. 
"ToTia 


)any  2S4 

nnd  363 
ofNiaga* 
«t  of  the 
vhere  the 
ed.    The 

a  gentle 
»or,  form* 

cross  the 
)in  Lake 

ce.   Thi« 


harbor  is  a  very  secure  one,  and  is  of  such  a  capacity 
that,  although  steamboats,  ships  and  other  lake  craft,  and 
canal  boats,  to  the  number,  in  all,  from  two  to  three  hun> 
dred,  have  sometimes  assembled  there,  for  the  transaction 
of  the  business  of  the  lakes,  yet  not  one-half  part  of  th& 
harbor  has  ever  yet  been  occupied  by  the  vast  business 
of  the  great  and  growing  M'est.  Facilities,  however, 
have  been  wanting  for  bringing  together  the  lake  and 
canal  craft,  in  the  easte;  n  paVt  of  the  harbor;  and  to  fur^ 
nish  these,  the  canal  commissioners,  under  a  special  law 
of  the  state,  are  to  extend  the  Erie  canal  a  mile  or  more, 
east  of  its  original  termination,  across  the  eastern  part  of 
the  city,  and  parallel  to  the  harbor.  By  this  work,  and 
cross  cuts  therefrom,  canal  boats  will  reach  every  part 
of  the  harbor  with  equal  facility.  The  city  is  divided 
north  and  south,  by  Main-street,  into  two  nearly  equal 
parts,  but  by  far  the  greater  portion  of  its  inhabitants 
occupy  the  eastern  half  of  the  city.^ 

Buffalo  was  first  settled  by  the  whites  in  1801.  In 
1814  it  was  all  burned  by  the  British,  except  three  build- 
ings. In  1832  it  was  chartered  as  a  city,  and  divided  into 
five  wards ;  being  governed  by  a  mayor,  recorder  and 
board  of  aldermen.  Its  population  in  1840,  according  to 
the  United  States  census,  was  18,213.  In  1818  the  first 
steamboat  was  built  upon  Lake  Erie;  and  the  total  num« 
ber  of  sail  era  A  upon  these  waters,  at  that  time,  was  30. 
There  are  now,  1343,  some  50  or  60  steamboats,  with 
300  schooners  and  other  sail  crafl,  navigating  Erie  and 
the  upper  lakes,  and  carrying  on  an  extensive  commerce 
from  Buffalo  westward,  twelve  hundred  int7e«,  through 
this  chain  of  inland  seas.         =  -.  tf  ^o.i 

By  means  of  the  Erie  canal  and  the  Hudson  river, 
Buffalo  is  now  connected  with  Albany  and  New-York  { 
while  by  a  chain  of  railroads  now  completed,  she  is  at 


180 « 


wBfii'finjr  Tovft. 


i  1 


directly  connected  by  land  through  these,  with  Albany, 
anJ  Boston,  Massachusetts. 

The  streets  in  the  most  compact  portions  of  the  city, 
are  paved  ;  an  J  the  builJings,  particularly  those  for  bu- 
einess,  are  of  the  most  durable  construction,  and  modern 
style.  Here  are  a  court-house  and  jail  and  county  clerk's 
oflSce ;  2  public  markets,  one  with  the  city  offices  in  the 
second  story  ;  3  Presbyterian,  2  Episcopal,  1  Baptist, 
2  Roman  Catholic,  1  Unitarian,  1  Universalist,  3  Ger- 
man  Protestant,  1  Bethel,  1  Methodist,  and  2  African 
churches;  1  orphan  asylum,  and  1  theatre.   "  '*"''''  ^"  '"' 

The  United  States  Government  have  constructed  a  pier 
or  mole,  extending  1,500  feet  on  the  south  side  of  the 
mouth  of  the  creek,  between  the  harbor  and  the  lake.  Up- 
on"the  outer  end  of  this  pier  is  a  light-house,  46  feet  high, 
and  20  feet  in  diameter  at  its  base.  It  is  a  beautiful  and  ' 
durable  structure,  erected  in  1832-3. 

The  Buffalo  and  Black  Rock  Railroad,  3  miles  long, 
and  the  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  Railroad,  23  miles 
long,  both  commence  at  this  place,  and  run  north ; 
while  the  Attica  and  Buffalo  Railroad,  extends  31  miles 
eastward,  connecting  with  the  Tonawanda  Railroad, 
which  terminates  at  the  city  of  Rochester. 

"  Such  have  been  the  facilities  afforded  by  means  ofca-  ' 
nals  and  railroads,  in  connection  with  lake  navigation, 
that  Buffalo  now  presents  a  very  active  and  thriving  ap- 
pearance. Situated  at  the  foot  of  one  of  the  great  scries 
of  inland  seas,  where  every  particle  of  produce  and  mer- 
chanJise  must  be  transhipped,  in  coming  both  from  the 
Far  West  and  from  the  sea-board,  nothing  can  prevent 
the  rapid  growth  and  expandii.g  importance  of  the  place. 
Already  are  her  wharves  and  storehouses  crowded  with 
the  produets  of  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Michigan,  and  ' 
Wisconsin,  the  natural  resources  of  which  vast  regions 


/' 


WBSTKRBf   'tOUR. 


181 


Albany; 

the  city, 
e  for  bu- 
d  modern 
ty  clerk's 
>s  in  the 
Baptist, 
t,  3  Ger- 
!  African 

ted  a  pier 
de  of  the 
alie.  Up* 
feet  high, 
uliful  and 

liles  long, 
23  miles 

in  north ; 

s31  miles 
ailroadf 

ins  of  ca- 
livigalion, 
[iving  ap- 
;at  series 
md  mer- 
Ifrom  the 
prevent 
lie  place. 
[eJ  with 
[an,  and 
regions 


have  but  just  begun  to  be  developed.  As  the  population 
of  the  northern  section  of  the  great  valley  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, increases,  so  must,  in  due  proportion,  increase  the 
population  and  vvrealth  of  this  Queen  City  or  the 
Lakes." 

There  are  now  running  between  Buffalo  and  Chicago, 
distant  about  1,000  miles,  some  15  to  20  steamers  of  a 
large  class ;  and  about  as  many  more  run  to  Toledo, 
Maumee,  and  Detroit,  stopping  at  the  intermediate  ports. 
All  these,  together  with  the  sailing  craft  of  the  lake,  and 
the  canal  boats  now  thronging  the  harbor  of  Buffalo,  give 
life  and  employment  to  great  numbers  of  people,  and 
heavy  amounts  of  capital. 

STEAMBOAT  LINES  LEAVING  BUFFALO. 

From  Buffalo  to  Chicago. — A  steamboat  leaves 
Buffalo  every  other  morning,  during  tlie  season  of  navi- 
gation, for  Chicago j  Illinois.  Distance  1,047  miles* 
Usual  fare  $12.00. 

From  Buffalo  to  Detroit. — A  boat  leaves  Buffalo 
daily  for  Detroit,  stopping  at  the  intermediate  ports. 
Distance  372  miles.    Usual  fare,  $7.00. 

From  Buffalo  to  Toledo  and  Perrtsburo. — A  boat 
leaves  Buffalo  daily  for  Perrysburg,  stopping  at  the  in- 
termediate ports.   Distance  319  miles.  Usual  fare,  $7.00. 

A  boat  runs  daily  between  Buffalo  and  Barcelona. 
Distance  GO  miles.     Usual  fare  $2.00. 

A  boat  runs  daily  between  Buffalo,  Chippewa  and 
Schlosser's  Landing.  Distance  22  miles.  Usual  fare,  37^ 
cents. 

The  latter  line  connects  with  railroad  cars  running 
from  Chippewa  to  Queenston,  and  with  stages  running 
from  Schlosser's  Landing  to  Niagara  Falls. 

A  British  steamer  plies  between  Buffalo  and  Port  Stan- 
ley, Canada,  running  twice  a  week,  during  the  season  of 
navigation.        ...  -      .:     .'    •      j    -      '     ^n 


'I 


182  WBSTERlf    TOUR.  ^ 

"^  STAGES  LEAVING  BUFFALO. 

Daily  Line  from  Buffalo  to  Detroit,  via  Erie,  Penn- 
sylvania, Cleveland  and  Toledo,  Ohio ;  distance  about 
400  miles.    Usual  fare,  $10.00.  ' 

From  Buffalo  to  Batavia,  leaves  daily,  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted.)   Distaace  38  miles.    Usual  fare,  $1.00. 

Tri-Weeklv  Lines  from  Buffalo  to  Ellicottville. 
Distaace  50  miles.    Usual  fare,  $2.50. 

From  Buffalo  to  Warsaw.  Distance  44  miles.  Usual 
fare,  $1.50. 

A  daily  line  of  stages  runs  from  Buffalo  to  Lockport 

during  the  suspension  of  navigation;  distance  30  miles. 

Usual  fare.  $1.50.  i 

1  — — — 

Distances  from  Buffalo  to  Chicago,  via  Detroit 

and  St.  Joseph,  by  steamboat,  railroad  and  stage  route. 

From  Buffalo  to  Detroit  by  steamboat,  372  miles. 

Railroad  and  Stage  Route  from  Detroit  to  Chicago^ 

Detroit  to  Dearborn,  by  railroad,. ...  10 

Dearborn  to  Wayne,           '*         ....  8  18 

Wayne  to  Ypsilanti,           "        ....  12  30 

Ypsilanti  to  Ann  Arbor,     "         ....  10  40 

Ann  Arbor  to  Dexter,         "         10  50 

Dexter  to  Sylvan,                "         10  60 

Sylvan  to  Grass  Lake,        "         10  70 

Grass  Lake  to  Jacksou,      "         ....  10  80 

Jackson  to  Barry,  61/ sfag;«,  6  86 

Barry  to  Smithfield, 7  93 

Smithfield  to  Albion 6  99 

Albion  to  Marengo, 7  106 

Mirengo  to  Marslmll, 5  111 

Marshall  to  Battle  Creek, 12  123 

Battle  Creek  to  Charleston, 10  133 

Charleston  to  Galesburs, 4  137 

Galesburg  toComstock, 4  141 

Comstock  to  Kalamazo, 4  145 

Kalamazo  to  Pavjr  Paw,. 18  163 

Paw  Paw  to  Hamilton, 12  175 

Hamilton  to  Keelersville, 4  179 

Keelersville  to  Bainbridge, 11  190 

Bainbridge  to  St.  Joseph, 10  200 

St  Joseph  to  Chicago,  by  steamboat , .  69  269 


WBBTBRir    TOUR. 


188 


Erie, 

Penn- 

stance 

aboQt 

ffi 

Sunda] 

fs  ex« 

il.OO. 

Ellicotiville. 

miles. 

Usual 

>  to  Lockport 

ance  30  miles. 

io,  via 

Detroit 

I  stage 

route. 

372  miles. 

it   to  Chicago^ 
10 

8 

13 

12 

30 

10 

40 

10 

50 

60 

1   10 

70 

1   10 

80 

1     Q 

86 

1     7 

93 

1       Q 

99 

1     7 

106 

1     5 

in 

1  12 

123 

1   10 

133 

1     4 

137 

1     4 

141 

1    4 

145 

1  18 

163 

1  12 

175 

1 

179 

H  11 

190 

H  10 

200 

H  69 

269 

Tabl£  of   Distances  through  Lakes  Erie,  Huron 
AND  Michigan,  from  port  to  port.         t 


.'',  '■ 


PLACES. 


Buffalo, 

Dunkirk, 

Erie,  Penn., 

Conneaut, 

Ashtabula, 

Grand  River,... 

Cleveland, 

Black  River, 

Vermilion,  

Huron, 

Sandusky,  

Toledo, 

Monroe, 

Detroit, 

Fort  Gratiot, 

Point  au  Barks 

Thousand  Bay  Islands,.... 

Presque  Isle,    

Mackinac,    

Manitou  Islands, 

Milwaukie, 

Racine, 

Southport, 

Chicago, 


00 
45 
45 
28 
13 
30 
30 
28 
10 
20 
10 
50 
28 
35 
70 
60 
75 
30 
60 
80 
220 
20 
12 
48 


s  . 

CO  o 


00 
45 
90 
118 
131 
161 
191 
219 
229 
249 
259 
309 
337 
372 
442 
502 
677 
607 
667 
747 
967 
987 
999 
1047 


Q    . 


372 
327 
282 
254 
241 
211 
181 
153 
143 
123 
113 
63 
35 
00 
70 
130 
205 
235 
295 
375 
595 
615 
627 
675 


1047 

1002 

957 

929 

916 

886 

856 

828 

818 

798 

788 

733 

710 

675 

605 

545 

470 

440 

380 

300 

80 

60 

48 

OO 


Interesting  Excursion. 
During  the  summer  months  it  is  usual  for  one  of  the 
many  splendid  steamers  that  sail  from  Buffalo,  to  make 
a  pleasure  ejccursion  of  some  weeks,  duration,  visiting 
the  Upper  Lakes,  stopping  at  Detroit,  Mackinaw,  the 
Manitou  Islands,  Chicago,  Green  Bay,  the  Falls  of  St. 
Mary's,  and  other  interesting  points  to  be  found  on  the 


borders  of  these  great  inland  seas. 


)\-^\ 


•r- 


I 
I 

I 


1 


1^4 


WKSTKltir    TOUlt. 


A  TRIP  FROM  BUFFALO  TO  CHICAGO. 

This  is  a  deeply  interesting  excursion,  calculated  to 
!?ive  the  traveller  a  just  conception  of  the  great  inland 
seas  of  North  America,  inasmuch  as  the  route  traverses 
Lakes  Eric,  St.  Clair,  Huron,  and  Michigan,  a  total  dis- 
tance of  more  than  a  thousand  miles. 

If  to  this  is  added  a  trip  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Mary, 
(Sault  de  St.  Marie,)  in  the  outlet  of  Lake  Superior,  and 
connecting  it  with  Lake  Huron — to  the  Manitoulin  Is- 
lands in  the  northern  quarter  of  Lake  Huron,  their  very 
name  implying  scenery  fitted  to  excite  sublime  emo- 
tions and  suggesting  the  strong  sentiment  of  religious 
awe  which  characterised  the  primitive  redman,  and  to 
the  island  of  Mackinac,  (pronounced  Mackinaw,)  and  its 
sister  islands  in  the  straits  of  the  same  name,  abounding 
with  the  finest  trout  and  white  fish,  and  connecting  the 
lakes  of  Michigan  and  Huron — if  these  be  added  to  the 
tour,  no  excursion  of  equal  extent  can  be  found,  that 
presents  a  greater  variety  of  picturesque  and  magnificent 
scenery.  i  i  ...  .    i 

As  this  excursion  begins  on  Lake  Erie,  we  begin  our 
guidance  with  a  brief  description  of  that  noble  and  most 
useful  body  of  water. 

Lake  Erie,  washing  the  shores  oCfour  of  these  Uni- 
ted States — New- York,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  and  Michi- 
gan— and  spreading  between  them  and  a  large  segment  of 
the  British  province  of  Canada  West,  with  the  line  of 
division  as  settled  by  treaty,  running  through  the  middle 
of  the  lake,  is  240  miles  long  by  40  to  60  miles  wide- 
Its  surface,  as  ascertained  by  the  engineers  of  the  Erie 
canal,  is  555  feet  above  the  Hudson  river  at  Albany,  and 
334  feet  above  Lake  Ontario.  The  greatest  depth  of  the 
lake  yet  observed,  is  270  feet.  This  is  comparatively 
shallow;  and  the  relative  depths   of  the  great  series  of 


IVBSTKRN    TOUR. 


186 


iB,  a  total  dis- 


be  found,  that 
nd  magnificent 


beat  series  of 


lakes  may  be  illustrated  by  saying  that  the  surplus  waters 
poured  from  the  vast  basins  of  Superior,  Huron,  and 
Michigan,  flow  across  the  plate  of  Erie  into  the  deep 
bowl  of  Ontario. 

Lake  Erie  is  reputed  to  be  the  onl^  one  of  the  series 
in  which  any  current  is  perceptible.  The  fact,  if  it  is 
one,  is  usually  ascribed  to  its  shallowness;  but  the  vast 
volume  of  is  outlet — the  Niagara  river — with  its  strong 
current,  is  a  much  more  favorable  cause  than  the  small 
depth  of  its  water,  which  may  be  far  more  appropriate- 
ly adduced  as  the  reason  why  the  navigation  is  obstructed 
V>y  ice  much  more  than  either  of  the  other  great  lakes. 
The  New- York  shore  of  Lake  Erie  extends  about  60 
miles  in  the  course  of  which  the  lake  receives  a  number  of 
streams,  the  most  considerable  of  which  are  the  Buffalo 
and  Cattaraugus  creeks j  and  presents  several  harbors^, 
the  most  important  of  which  at  present,  are  Bufl'alo  creek 
and  Dunkirk. 

As  connected  with  trade  and  navigation,  this  lake  is 
iar  the  most  important  of  all  the  great  chain,  not  only  be- 
<;ause  it  is  bordci-ed  by  older  settlements  than  any  of  them 
except  Ontario,  but  still  more  because,  from  its  position, 
it  concentrates  the  trade  of  the  vast  west. 

When  we  consider  the  extent  not  only  of  this  lake,  but 
of  Huron,  nearly  250  miles  long,  of  Michigan,  300  miles 
long,  of  Superior,  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water  on 
the  globe,  we  may  quote  with  emphasis,  the  words  of  an 
English  writer:  "  How  little  are  they  aware,  in  Europe, 
of  the  extent  of  commerce  upon  these  inland  seas,  whose 
coasts  are  now  lined  with  flourishing  town  and  cities ; 
whose  waters  arc  ploughed  with  magnificent  steamboats, 
und  hundreds  of  vessels  crowded  with  merchandise. 
Hven  the  Americans  themselves  are  not  fully  aware  of 
the  rising  importance  of  these  lakes,  as  connected  with 
the  west." 


rr 


' 


f 


U: 


♦     i 


186 


WBSTBItlV    TOUR. 


D'uNKiBK,  45  miles  from  Uaffalo,  is  no  doubt  destined  to 
become  an  important  place.  Here  it  is  intended  to  ter. 
minate  the  New-York  and  Erie  Railroad,  \^'hich  will  no 
doubt  be  completed  before  many  years.  The  fine  harbor 
here  is  usually  clearjofice  much  earlier  than  tliat  of  Buf- 
falo. This  village  was  incorporated  in  1837,  and  now 
contains  about  1,000  inhabitants,  2  churches,  and  several' 
public  houses.  The  distance  from  Dunkirk  [to  New- 
York  city  is  470  miles  by  this  railroad,  64  miles  of  which 
are  finished;  177  miles,  in  detached  portions,  ready  for 
the  superstructure,  and  the  remainder  surveyed  and  lo- 
cated. ■''''■■'  '"     """'   '--•■    ■   ^" 

Barcelona,  52  miles  southwest  from  Buffalo,  is  the 
westernmost  village  in  the  state  of  New- York.  It  is  a  port 
of  entry  and  contains  about  400  inhabitants,  3  taverns,  and 
ten  or  fifteen  stores  and  storehouses.  A  steamboat  runs 
from  Buffalo  to  this  place,  stopping  at  the  intermediate 
ports.  Here,  too,  is  a  lighthouse,  lighted  with  inflamma- 
ble gas,  which  escapes  from  the  bed  of  the  creek,  about 
a  mile  distant,  and  is  carried  in  pipes  to  the  shore.       " 

Erie,  Pa.,  90  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  beautifully  situa- 
ted on  Presque  Isle  bay,  affording  one  of  the  best  har- 
bors on  the  lake.  It  contains  about  4,000  inhabitants^ 
a  court-house  and  jailj  8  churches;  1  banking  house; 
several  well  kept  public  houses,  and  a  number  of  stores 
and  warehouses.  It  is  a  place  of  much  trade  and  of 
growing  importance. 

CoNNEAUT,  28  miles  further  west,  in  the  northeast 
corner  of  Ohio,  stands  on  a  creek  of  the  same  name, 
at  its  entrance  into  the  lake.  In  1840,  the  town  contained 
2,642  inhabitants,  3  churches,  and  24  stores.  It  ex- 
ports large  quantities  of  lumber,  grain,  pork,  beef,  flour, 
butter,  cheese,  &c. 

'■■-.!       •,    ..  .  .i.    It 


WIBBTKKN    TOV*. 


187 


Ashtabula,  Ohio,  13  miles  from  Conneaut,  stands  on 
a  stream  of  the  same  name,  near  its  entrance  into  the 
lake. 

Fairport,  Ohio,  stands  on  the  east  side  of  Grand 
river,  161  miles  from  Buffalo.  Its  harbor  lor  lake  ves- 
sels is  good,  and  it  is  connected  with  Painesville  by  u 
railroad  of  3  miles  long. 

The  CiTT  OP  Cleveland,  the  emporium  of  northern 
Ohio,  is  191  miles  from  Buffalo,  211  from  Detroit,  and 
916  from  Chicago.  It  is  a  port  of  entry,  and  next  to 
Cincinnati,  is  the  most  important  town  in^lhe  state.  It 
stands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cuyahoga  river,  and  the 
northern  termination  of  the  Ohio  canal,  307  miles  from 
Portsmouth  on  the  Ohio  river.  Packet  boats  for  passen- 
gers run  daily/ on  this  canal,  reaching  P((rtsmouth  in 
about  tUree  and  a  half  days  ;  where  steamboats  are  taken 
for  Cincinnatti,  a  further  distance  of  113  miles.  It  has  abo 
a  connection  with  Pittsburg,  by  means  of  the  Ohio  and 
Pennsylvania  canals. 

The  harbor  of  Cleveland  is  one  of  the  best  on  Lake 
Erie,  and  it  has  a  great  and  growing  trade.  The  popu- 
lation in  1840,  was  6,071,  and  is  rapidly  increasing. 

Black  River,  23  miles  from  Cleveland,  is  a  small  vii- 
lage  with  a  good  harbor,  and  has  considerable  trade. 

Vermilion,  10  miles  further  is  a  village  of  some  trade, 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  of  the  same  name. 

Huron,  20  miles  further,  also  stands  at  the  mouth  of 
a  river  of  the  same  name,  with  a  good  harbor.  It  con- 
tains about  1,200  inhabitants,  15  stores,  and  8  or  10  wore, 
houses. 

Sandusky,  10  miles  further,  and  259  miles  from  Buf- 
falo, is  a  port  of  entry,  and  the  capital  of  Erie  county, 
Ohio.  It  stands  on  the  shore  of  Sandusky  bay,  fronting 
the  lake.     The  entire  town  is  based  on.  a  quany  of 


r 


B/ 


189 


WRBTnRN    Toun. 


the  linest  builJinp;  stone,  which  has  been  oteusively 
used  in  its  eiiitices.  During  the  season  of  navi^^ation, 
eight  or  nine  months,  the  wharves  are  thronged  with 
steamboats  antl  otlicr  vessels.  It  contains  about  1,5U() 
inhabitants,  'A  splendid  churches,  30  stores  of  diil'erent 
kinds,  and  a  ship*yard,  for  building  steamboats  and  other 
lake  craft. 

Toledo,  50  miles  from  Sandusky,  and  309  miles  from 
Biilfalo,  stands  on  the  west  bank  of  Maumee  river,  near 
its  entrance  into  Maumee  bay,  at  the  south  end  of  l^aUr 
Krie.  It  coatains  a  population  of  about  1,500;  40  ot  iA« 
stores,  and  several  extensive  manufacturing  esiablish- 
tiients. 

Steamboats  run  direct  from  Buffalo  to  this  ploce,  and 
Pkrrvsburg,  nt  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation  on 
the  Maumee  river,  IS  miles  from  the  light-house  on  the 
lake  shore. 

•' Arailroad  is  finished  from  Toledo  to  Adrian,  33  miles; 
iin  1  tlic  Wabash  niul  Erie  canal  is  now  completed  from 
Lake  Erie  to  Lu  Fayette,  a  point  on  the  Wabash,  to 
which  steamboats  ascend  from  the  Ohio  river.  As  boats 
cannot,  however,  ascend  to  La  Fayette,  except  in  com- 
paratively high  water,  the  canal  is  to  be  continued  down 
the  Wabash  81  miles  to  Terre  Haute,  where  the  National 
road  crosses  the  river  Much  is  already  done  on  the  ca- 
nal south  of  La  Fayette.  i      > 

"A  traveller  wishing  to  go  from  Buffalo  to  St.  Louis, 
can  do  so  by  the  above  route  in  six  uays,  ifTrtr  the  lake 
and  canal  shall  be  in  a  navigable  c«  tulitio  .  Jtwillrt 
quire  30  hours  to  reach  Toledo,  83  hours  to  Terre  Haute, 
and  30  hours  by  stage  from  thence  to  St.  Louis  across  the 
beautiful  prairies  of  Southern  Illinois,  making  in  all  143 
hours,  or  six  days.  We  trust  that  the  packet  boat  corn- 
pa  iies  on  the  Wabash  and  Erie  canal  will  put  down  the 


/  r 


W^'BTEHN    TOUR. 


189 


e  river,  near 


fare,  as  the  sayini?  f^,  *  to  SffiTf  the  times,'  and  all  rea 
sunable  efrurtt  will  be  made  to  induce  a   large  share  of 
the  travel  iVom  Missouri,  and  the  southern     ;«uifttry,  to 
New- York  and  Uoston,  to  take  this  ronte." 

MoNROK,  Michigan,  28  miles  noi  iweit  oi  Toledo, 
iitands  on  the  River  Raisin,  2\  miles  (ti,  <  its  muuth.  A 
canal  100  I'eet  wide,  and  12  ieet  deep,  extends  from  the 
city  to  the  lake,  through  which  steamboats  and  other  ves- 
sels conlinitally  ply.  Monroe  contains  a  po  ulatioit  of 
about  2,000  ;  a  court-house  and  jail,  2  banks,  a  United 
States  land  oifice,  7  churches,  20  or  30  stores,  and  several 
large  manufacturing  establishments. 

AMiiuHSTnURUH,  Can.  West,  stands  at  the  im  ith  of 
the  Detroit  river,  about  half  way  between  Monroe  and 
Detroit.  It  was  known  during  the  last  war  by  the  ii^me 
uf  Maiden.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  the  t  at- 
tic ground  of  Brownstown,  where  the  Americans,  un.  er 
disadvantageous  circumstances,  and  with  a  slight  los*«, 
routed  the  British  forces,  which  lay  in  ambush,  as  the 
former  were  on  their  way  to  relieve  the  fort  at  French- 
town. 

The  City  of  Detroit,  on  Detroit  river,  372  miles 
from  Buffalo,  and  675  miles  from  Chicago,  by  steamboat 
route,  is  unsurpassed  for  beauty  and  advantages  of  lo- 
cality, standing  30  feet  above  the  water,  with  a  fine  view 
of  the  surrounding  country.  It  is  admirably  situated  for 
trade,  and  is  fast  rising  in  commercial  importance.  The 
navif  ition  of  the  river  and  lake  is  open  8  or  9  mon^s  in 
the  year,  during  which  time  steamboats  and  other  vessels 
are  almost  hourly  arriving  and  departing  lor  the  ditferent 
ports  on  Lakes  Erie,  Huron,  and  Michigan.  .'  T 

tMroti  was  first  settled  by  the  French  in  1683;  and 
now  coutains  u  population  of  about  10,000  inhabitants  ; 
a  state  hou^c  of  brick,  this  being  the  capital  of  the  state 


190 


WB8TBRII    TOUR. 


of  Miehigan  ;  a  city  hall ;  lOchtirches  ;  4  banking  houses; 
a  United  States  land  office  ;  a  theatre  and  museum  ;  3 
markets  ;  a  state  penitentiary  ;  a  government  magazine, 
and  a  mechanic's  hall ;  various  charitable  and  other  in- 
stitutions,  besides  12  public  rchools. 

The  Central  Railroad  of  Michigan,  is  now  finished 
for  80  miles  ;  and  when  completed  will  extend  to  St.  Jo- 
seph, on  Lake  Michigan,  194  miles  from  Detroit.  There 
is  now  a  line  of  public  conveyance  on  this  route  to  Chi- 
cago, running  through  in  about  40  hours ;  80  miles  being 
by  railroad  cars  ;  120  by  stage  ;  and  69  by  steamboat, 
across  Lake  Michigan.  The  Detroit  and  Pontiac  Rail- 
road is  25  miles  long. 

Windsor,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  in  Cana- 
da, is  the  western  termination  of  the  stage  route  extend- 
ing to  Hamilton  aid  Queenston.  This  is  a  favorite  route 
while  navigation  is  closed. 

Lake  St.  Clair,  30  miles  long  and  24  wide,  com. 
mences  7  miles  above  Detroit;  it  is  90  miles  in  circum- 
ference and  20  feet  deep.  Its  banks  are  alluvial,  and  ele- 
vated 20  feet  above  the  water.  Clinton  river  enters  from 
Michigan,  and  the  Thames  and  other  streams  from  the 
Canada  side.  From  thence  the  river  St.  Clair,  40  miles 
long,  extends  northerly  to 

Fort  Gratiot,  70  miles  from  Detroit,  and  at  the 
foot  of  Lake  Huron,  on  the  west  side  of  St.  Clair  river. 
It  was  built  in  1814,  and  consists  of  a  stockade,  enclos- 
ing H  magazine,  barracks,  and  other  accommodations  for 
a  garrison  of  one  battalion.  .f.j.ot^ 

Lake  Huron,  through  which  runs  the  boundary  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Canada,  is  about  218  miles 
long  and  180  broad,  though  its  irregular  form  renders  it 
difficult  to  determine  this  with  much  precision.  It  re- 
ceives the  waters  of  Lftke  Superior  through  the  straits  of 


lYEBTBKN    TOUR. 


191 


ver,  in  Cana- 


St.  Mary,  and  uf  Lake  Michigan,  through  the  straits  of 
Michilimackinac,  and  discharges  its  over  surplus  into 
Lake  Erie,  through  the  St.  Clair  and  Detroit  rivers.  On 
the  north  part  of  this  lake  are  the  Manitoulin  Islands, 
the  largest  of  which  is  80  miles  long. 

Point  avx  Barques,  130  miles  from  Detroit,  is  at 
the  south  entrance  of  Saginaw  bay,  which  extends  many 
miles  inland,  toward  the  west. 

Thunder  Bay,  75  miles  farther,  contains  a  great 
number  of  islands,  on  one  of  which  16  a  light-house.  It 
is  sometimes  called  Thousand  Island  Bay. 

Presqce  Isle,  30  miles,  is  situate  on  the  northeast 
point  ol  the  peninsula  of  Michigan,  where  the  lake  in* 
clines  towards  the  west. 

Mackinac,  295  miles  from  Detroit,  and  380  from 
Chicago,  is  delightfully  situated  on  the  southeast  ex- 
tremity of  an  island  of  the  same  name  in  the  straits  of 
Michilimackinac.  It  contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  2 
churches,  10  stores  and  several  public  houses.  Fort 
Mackinac  stands  on  a  rocky  eminence,  150  feet  imme- 
diately above  the  village,  which,  together  with  the  har- 
bor, it  commands.  This  is  a*delightful  residence  during 
warm  weather,  the  air  being  freshened  and  cooled  by  the 
water  and  by  gentle  winds,  rendering  the  place  a  favorite 
resort  for  invalids.  Here  also  is  a  great  fishery;  over 
3,5000  barrels  of  trout  and  white  fish  being  annually  ex- 
ported ;  and  it  is  the  mart  of  an  extensive  fur  trade, 
being  for  ages  a  favorite  resort  of  Indians.  A  steamboat 
runs  from  Mackinac  to  Green  Bay,  at  the  head  of  which, 
in  Wisconsin,  is  an  Important  settlement.  After  leaving 
Mackinac,  and  entering  Lake  Michigan,  several  islands 
are  passed  in  succession,  the  largest  of  which  is  Beaver 
Island.  '  *'  ''  ■      '   '■  ■  '  '  ■•  ■  '■'-'    •  -        ■'-■•!  '  . 


;]  I 


M   1 


t!  iii 


192 


W£ST£RK    TOUR. 


The  Manitou  Islands,  SO  miles  from  Mackinac,  lie 
on  the  east  side  of  Lake  Michigan,  opposite  the  mouth 
of  Green  Bay,  a  large  and  important  body  of  water. 

Lakk  Michigan,  the  largest  lake  which  lies  wholly 
in  the  United  States,  is  about  330  miles  long  and  60  broad. 
Its  waters  are  deep,  and  it  affords  excellent  fish,  which 
are  annually  taken  in  large  quantities  and  constitute  an 
important  item  in  the  trade  of  that  region.  »;.  ,^ 

Milwaukie,  in  Wisconsin,  300  miles  from  Mackinac, 
is  on  the  west  sidejof  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Milwaukie  river.  It  contains  a  court-house  and  jail, 
a  United  States  land  office,  3  churches,  and  about  3,000 
inhabitants.  Steamboats  and  sail  vessels  ply  between 
this  place  and  Buffalo,  and  from  its  rich  and  extensive 
back  country,  it  is  likely  to  grow  rapidly  and  become  a 
place  of  much  importance.  ^,.», 

Racine,  20  miles  south  of  Milwaukie,  and  at  the 
mouth  of  Root  river,  contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  10 
or  12  stores  and  about  500  inhabitants. 

SouTHPORT,  12  miles  further,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
lake,  contains  about  500  inhabitants  and  several  stores. 

The  CiTV  OF  Chicago,  in  Illinois,  48  miles  still  fur- 
ther south,  is  beautifully  situated  on  level  ground,  on 
both  sides  of  the  river  Chicago.  It  extends  along  the 
lake  shore  for  a  mile.  An  artificial  harbor  has  been 
formed  by  the  construction  of  piers  on  each  side  of  the 
entrance  of  the  river,  for  some  distance  into  the  lake. 
This  is  a  rapidly  growing  and  important  place,  with 
numerous  steamboats  and  other  vessels  employed  in  ac- 
tive and  profitable  trade  with  Buffalo,  and  the  various 
intermediate  ports  on  the  Upper  Lakes.  It  contains  5  or 
6,000  inhabitants  ;  the  public  buildings  for  Cook  county  j 
a  United  States  land  office  ;  8  churches,  and  several  well 
kept  public  houses.    No  place  in  the  Union  has  probably 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


193 


ackinac,  lie 
the  mouth 
■  water. 
lies  wholly 
[d60  broad, 
fish,  which 
institute  an 

.  Mackinac, 
e  mouth  of 
ise  and  jail, 
about  3,000 
ly  between 
I  extensive 
d  become  a 

and  at  the 
indjail,  10 

side  of  the 

eral  stores. 

es  still  fur- 
round,  on 
along  the 
has  been 

Iside  of  the 

the  lake. 

lace,  with 

•yed  in  ac- 

e  various 

Intains  5  or 
ik  county ; 
veral  well 
s  probably 


exceeded  Chicago  in  its  rapid  growth  and  the  increase  of 
its  trade.  It  is  the  central  mart  of  the  rich  agricultural 
section  of  northern  Illinois,  and  a  part  of  Wicsonsin. 
The  Michigan  and  Illinois  Canal,  now  constructing 
from  this  place  to  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Illinois 
river,  will  add  much  to  its  imp  ortance  and  give  a  new 
and  powerful  impulse  to  its  growth. 

Michigan    City,    Indiana,  standing  at  the  head  of 
Lake  Michigan,  and  at  the  mouth  of  Trail  Creek,  was 
laid  out  in  1835.    It  now  contains  about  800  inhabitants, 
and  is  no  doubt  destined  to  become  a  place  of  very  consi- 
derable importance.  '*'"  ^ 

St.  Joseph,  Michigan,  opposite  Chicago,  stan4s  at 
the  mouth  of  the  St.  Joseph  river,  and  is  the  proposed 
termination  of  the  Central  Railroad,  running  through 
Michigan  from  Detroit,  a  distance  of  about  200  miles. 
A  line  of  steamboats,  stages,  and  railroad  cars,  now  run 
over  this  route,  from  Chicago  to  Detroit,  affording  a 
choice  of  conveyances,  and  great  facilities  for  travel  and 
correspondence.  ^" 

Green  Bay  is  in  the  Territory  of  Wisconsin.  Con- 
necting with  Lake  Michigan  at  the  northwestern  bend  of 
the  latter,  by  a  wide  opening,  or  straits,  the  Bay  stretches 
southward  about  100  miles,  with  a  breadth  varying  from 
15  to  30  miles,  and  lying  nearly  parallel  with  the  north 
segment  of  the  lake.  Its  broad  entrance,  for  some  30 
miles,  is  traversed  by  a  succession  of  islands,  called, 
from  their  position,  Traverse  Islands.  The  Bay  is  navi- 
gable by  vessels  of  200  tons  burden,  to  its  southern  ex- 
tremity, or  head,  where  it  receives  the  waters  of  Fox 
river,  at  the  mouth  of  which  is  a  flourishing  town,  with 
a  population  of  nearly  2,000,  surrounded  by  a  fertile  and 
beautiful  region,  and  where  the  United  States  have  a 
Land   Office.    The  head   waters  of  ttie  Fox  river  inter- 


m 


^4 


■J:  -if  I 


?  I    ; 


:f     I 


f     J 


194 


WBSTERlf    TOUR. 


lock  with  those  of  the  Wisconsin,  at  a  very  short  dis- 
tance apart,  and  in  very  high  freshets  boats  have  often 
passed  from  one  to  the  other.  A  short  canal  would  make 
the  connection  perfect  at  all  times,  and  would  thus  give 
an  unbroken  navigation  from  the  great  lakes  through 
Green  Bay,  Fox  river  and  the  Wisconsin,  to  the  Missis- 
sippi at  Prairie  du  Chien,  300  miles  below  the  Falls 
of  St.  Anthony,  and  600  miles  above  St.  Louis.  Green 
Bay  contains  several  islands  about  midway  its  length, 
ftud  at  its  northwestern  curve  it  receives  the  Menominee 
river,  which  flows  in  from  the  northwest,  and  forms  the 
boundary  between  the  Wisconsin  Territory  and  that  por- 
tion of  Michigan  which  lies  between  it  and  Lake  Su- 
perior. 

Sault  de  St.  Ma  me,  or  St.  Mary's  Falls,  is  the 
name  of  the  settlement  on  the  American  shore  of  the  St 
Mary's  River,  about  15  miles  below  Lake  Superior,  at 
the  rapids,  which  are  three-fourths  of  a  mile  long,  with 
a  descent  of  some  23  feet.  The  entire  fall  of  the  river, 
which  is  60  miles  long,  from  Lake  Superior  to  its  en- 
trance into  Lak«  Huron,  is  about  50  feet.  It  is  contem- 
plated to  cut  a  ship  canal  round  the  falls,  or  sault,  the 
river  being  navigable  in  all  the  rest  of  its  course.  Such 
a  canal,  by  enabling  steamers  and  all  other  lake  vessels 
to  pass  into  Lake  Superior,  and  thus  opening  the  naviga- 
tion of  that  great  inland  sea,  would  serve  most  efficiently 
to  promote  the  settlement  of  Upper  Michigan,  and  the 
regions  bordering  on  Lake  Superior,  would  enhance  the 
value  of  the  national  domains,  particularly  of  the  cop- 
per and  lead  districts,  and  would  be  the  pioneer  of  incal- 
culable benefits  to  the  whole  Union,  as  well  as  to  a  vast 
but  secluded  country,  not  yet  accommodated  with  the 
means  of  constant  and  permanent  intercourse  and  traflio 


WESTERN    TOUR. 


195 


superior,  at 


with  the  great  lake  states,  and  the  great  markets  of  the 
sea*  board. 

The  settlement,  or  village  of  St.  Mary,  is  on  the  site 
of  an  OiJ  French  fort,  and  is  an  elevated  and  pleasant  po- 
sition. It  contains  a  court*honse,  3  churches,  a  trading 
house  of  the  American  Fur  Company  and  several  other 
stores.  A  post  belonging  to  the  United  States,  called 
Fort  Brady,  is  also  established  here,  and  has  a  garrison 
of  United  States  troops.  The  population,  made  up  of 
Americans,  Frenchmen,  Indians  and  half-breeds,  amounts 
usually  to  about  1 ,000,  and  occasionally  a  much  greater 
number,  when  the  Indians  and  other  trappers  and  hun- 
ters come  in  with  their  peltry,  for  the  purposes  of  trade, 
and  to  -eceive  their  annuities. 

Lake  Superior,  supposed  to  be  the  largest  body  of 
fresh  water  in  the  world,  is  about  380  miles  long  and  130 
wide,  and  about  1,400  miles  in  circumference.  It  is  sur- 
rounded mostly  by  a  rocky  and  uneven  coast,  and  con- 
tains many  considerable  islands,  one  of  the  largest  of 
which,  Isle  Royal,  is  about  100  miles  long  and  40  miles 
broad.  Its  waters  abound  with  fish,  particularly  trout, 
sturgeon,  and  white-fish,  which  are  caught  at  all  seasons 
and  in  large  quantities.  Of  these  the  trout,  weighing  from 
12  to  50  pounds,  and  the  white  fish,  weighing  often  over 
20  pounds,  are  perhaps  the  most  important.  The  storms 
on  this  lake  are  almost  equal  to  those  on  the  Atlantic — 
its  waves  run  as  high,  and  its  navigation  is  probably  more 
dangerous.  Its  surface  is  elevated  625  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  its  mean  depth  is  900  feet.  Its  wa- 
ters  are  remarkably  clear  and  transparent.  It  receives 
more  than  thirty  rivers,  and  discharges  its  surplus  into 
Lake  Huronj  by  the  straits,  or  river  of  St.  Mary.  The 
boundary  lines  between  the  United  States  and  the  British 
Possessions  pass  through   the  middle  of  this,  as  of  the 


196 


WRSTCRN    TOUR. 


r^     t      i 


Other  great  lakes,  from  its  outlet,  the  St.  Mary,  most  of 
the  distance,  but  towaird  the  westerly  segment  of  the  Isle 
Royal,  giving  that  island  to  the  United  States,  and  then 
inclining  southwesterly  to  the  mouth  of  Pigeon  river. 
»  The  Pictured  Rocks,  on  its  south  shore,  toward  the 
east  end  of  the  lake,  are  a  great  curiosity,  forming  an 
immense  perpendicular  wall  300  feet  high  and  extending 
about  12  miles,  with  frequent  and  vast  caverns  along 
their  base,  into  which  waters  roll,  especially  in  storms, 
with  a  tremendous  roar.  At  one  place  a  considerable 
stream  is  thrown  from  them  into  the  lake,  by  a  single 
burst,  from  the  height  of  70  feet,  and  boats  can  pass 
between  it  and  the  rocks  ;  at  another  place  four  enormous 
piers  of  rocks  support  a  vast  stratum,  or  entablature  of 
stone,  covered  with  soil,  on  which  stand  trees  of  spruct 
and  pine,  some  of  which  are  50  or  60  feet  high.  This  is 
called  the  Doric  Rock,  or  Arch,  and  it  appears  like  an 
achievement  of  Art,  though  it  is  the  work  of  Nature. 


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.»,/f 


THE  FIRST  VKSSKL  WHICH  NAVIGATED  THE 
WESTERN  LAKES. 

The  followinjr  account,  which  we  extract  from  Hunt's 
Mkkchants'  Magazine,  is  translated  from  an  old  French 
worii,  printed  in  16S8,  entitled,  "An  Account  of  the 
Discovery  of  a  very  great  Country  situated  in  America," 
by  Father  Hennepin.     It  will  be  read  with  interest: 

It  now  became  necessary  for  La  Salle,  in  furtherance 
of  his  object,  to  construct  a  vessel  above  the  Falls  of 
Niagara,  sulUcieritly  large  to  transport  the  men  and  gooils 
necessary  to  carry  on  a  profitable  trade  with  the  savag*s 
residing  on  the  western  lakes.  On  the  22d  of  January, 
1679,  they  went  six  miles  above  the  falls  to  the  mouth 
of  a  small  creek,  and  there  built  a  dock  convenient  for 
the  construction  of  their  vessel.* 

On  the  2Gth  of  January,  the  keel  and  other  pieces  be- 
ing ready.  La  Salle  requested  Father  Hennepin  to  drive 
the  first  bolt,  but  the  modesty  of  the  good  father's  pro- 
fession prevented. 

During  the  rigorous  winter.  La  Salle  determined  to  re- 
turn to  Fort  Frontenac  ;t  and  leaving  the  dock  in  charge 
of  an  Italian  named  Chevalier  Tuti,  he  started,  accom- 
panied by  Father  Hennepin  as  far  as  Lake  Ontario  ;  from 
thence  he  traversed  the   dreary  forests    to  Frontenac  on 

*  Thore  can  be  but  littlR  iIouI)t  ihit  the  pliicc  ihcjr  st'lcclcil  for 
tjuililiug  their  b;irk,  was  the  mouth  of  the  Cnyiiaa  CrPfk,  nlinut 
six  miles  a!;ovc  the  falls.  Ciovcrnor  Cass  siiys  "  the  vessel  was 
liiunched  at  Krie;"  Schoolcraft,  in  his  journal,  says,  "near  Fuf- 
falo;"  and  ttio  historian  Banctoft  locntes  the  site  at  the  month 
of  Tonawanila  crcdi.  Hennepin  says  the  month  of  the  crccli  was 
two  leagues  above  the  great  falls;  the  tnoulh  of  the  Ton;i\v;ui(tn 
is  more  than  twice  that  distance,  and  the  Cuyiiga  is  ttie  only- 
stream  that  answers  to  the  description. 

t  Now  Kingston,  Canada. 

O 


198 


NAVIGATION    OF    TIIK 


foot,  with  only  two  companions  and  a  dog  which  drew 
his  ba(];gat;e  on  a  sled,  subsisting  on  nothing  but  parched 
corn,  and  even  that  failed  him  two  days  journey  from  the 
fort.  In  the  mean  time  the  building  of  the  vessel  went 
on  under  the  suspicious  eyes  ol  the  neighboring  savages, 
although  the  most  pari  J'  them  had  gone  to  war  l)eyond 
Lake  Erie.  One  of  them,  feigning  intoxication,  attempt- 
ed the  life  of  the  blacksmith,  who  defended  himself  sue 
cessfully  with  n  red  hot  bar  of  iron.  The  timely  warning  of 
n  friendly  sqaw  averted  the  burning  of  their  vessel  on  the 
stocks,  which  was  designed  by  the  savages.  The  work- 
men were  almost  disheartened  by  frequent  alarms,  and 
would  have  abandoned  the  work  had  they  not  been  cheered 
by  tiie  good  father,  who  represented  the  great  advantage 
their  perseverance  would  aflord,  and  how  much  their 
success  would  redound  to  the  glory  of  God.  These  and 
other  inducements  accelerated  the  work,  and  the  vessel 
was  soon  ready  to  be  launched,  though  notentirely  finished. 
Chanting  Te  Deum,  and  firing  three  guns,  they  commit* 
ted  her  to  the  river  amid  cries  of  joy,  and  swung  their 
hammocks  in  security  from  the  wild  beasts  and  still  more 
dreaded  Indians. 

When  the  Senecos  returned  from  their  expedition  they 
were  greatly  astonished  at  the  floating  fort,  "  which  struck 
terror  among  all  the  savages  who  lived  on  the  great  lake* 
and  rivers  within  filtocn  hundred  miles."  Hennepin  as- 
cf.?ndcd  the  river  in  a  bark  canoe  with  one  of  his  com' 
panicns  as  far  as  Lake  Erie.  They  twice  pulled  the  ca' 
noe  up  the  rapids,  and  sounded  the  lake  for  the  purpose 
of  ascertaining  the  depth.  He  reported  that  with  a  fa- 
vorable north  or  northwest  wind  the  vessel  could  ascend 
to  the  lake,  and  then  sail  without  difficulty,  over  its 
whole  extent.  Soon  after  the  vessel  was  launched  in  the 
current  of  Niagara  about  four  and  a  half  miles  from  the 


WESTKRN    T^AKER, 


199 


lake.  ITeancpin  left  it  for  Fort  Frontenac^  and  returning 
■with  La  Salle  and  two  oilier  fathers,  Gabriel  and  Zeno- 
be  Mumbre,  anchored  in  the  Niagara  the  30th  July, 
I67f).  On  the  4th  of  August,  they  reached  the  dock 
where  tlic  ship  was  built,  which  he  calls  distant  eighteen 
miles  from  Lake  Ontario,  and  proceeded  from  thence  in 
1  bark  cnnoe,  to  their  vessel,  which  they  found  at  anchor 
.nreo  miks  iVom  the  "  beautiful  Lake  Erie." 

The  vessel  was  of  CO  tons  burthen,  completely  rigged, 
and  found  with  all  the  necessaries,  arms,  provisions  and 
merclmndize  ;  it  had  seven  small  pieces  of  cannon  on 
•board,  two  of  which  were  of  brass.  There  was  a  griffin, 
flying  at  the  jib  boom,  and  an  eagle  above.  There  were 
also  all  the  ordinary  ornaments  and  other  fixtures  which 
usually  grace  a  ship  of  war. 

They  endeavored  many  times  to  ascend  the  current  of 
the  Niagara  into  Lake  Erie  without  success,  the  wind  not 
being  strong  enough.  Whilst  they  were  thus  detained, 
La  Salle  employed  a  few  cf  his  men  in  clearing  some 
land  on  the  Canadian  shore,  opposite  the  vessel,  and  in 
sowing  some  vegetable  seeds  for  the  benefit  of  those  who 
might  inhabit  the  place. 

At  length  the  wind  being  favorable,  they  lightened  the 
vessel  by  sending  most  of  the  crew  on  shore,  and  with 
the  aid  cf  their  sails  and  ten  or  a  dozen  men  at  the  tow- 
lines,  ascended  the  current  into  Lake  Erie.  Thus  on  the 
7th  of  August,  1G79,  the  first  vessel  set  sail  on  the  un- 
tried waters  of  Lake  Eric.  They  steered  southwest,  after 
having  chanted  their  never  failing  Te  Deum,  and  dis- 
charged their  artillery  in  the  presence  of  a  vast  number 
of  Seneca  warriors.  It  had  teen  reported  to  our  voya- 
gers that  Lake  Erie  was  full  of  breakers  and  sand  banks, 
whicb  rendered  a  safe  navigation  impossible  ;  they  there- 
fore kept  the  lead  going,  sounding  from  time  to  time. 


i»    I 


if  '• 


:    fi 


1 1 


f  '3 


I    t 


200 


NAVIGATION    OF    TIIU 


After  sailin!»,  without  difficulty,  through  Lake  p]rie, 
they  arrived  on  the  11th  of  August  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Detroit  river,  sailing  up  which  they  arrived  at  Lake  St. 
Clair,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  it  bears.  After  be- 
ing detained  several  days  by  contrary  winds  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  St.  Clair  river,  they  at  length  succeeded  in 
entering  Lake  Huron,  on  the  23,1  of  August,  chanting 
Te  Deum  through  gratitude  for  a  safe  navigation  thus  far. 
Passing  along  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake,  they  sailed 
with  a  fresh  and  favorable  wind  until  evening,  when  the 
wind  suddenly  veered,  driving  them  across  hasiiaw  Bay, 
(Sacinaw.)  The  stormed  raged  until  the  24ib,  and  was 
succeeded  by  a  calm,  which  continued  until  next  day 
noon,  (2.')th,)  when  they  pursued  their  course  until  mid- 
night. As  they  doubled  a  point  which  advanced  into  the 
lake,  they  were  suddenly  struck  by  a  furious  wind,  which 
forced  them  to  run  behind  the  cape  for  safely.  On  the 
26th.  the  violence  of  the  storm  oinpelled  them  to  send 
down  their  top-masts  and  yards,  "nd  to  stand  in,  for  they 
could  find  neither  anchorage  or  shelter. 

It  was  then  the  stout  heart  of  La  Salle  failed  him,  the 
whole  crew  fell  upon  their  knees  to  say  their  prnyers  and 
prepare  for  death,  except  the  pilot,  whom  they  could  not 
compel  to  follow  their  example,  and  who  on  the  contra- 
ry ''did  nothing  all  that  time  but  curse  and  swear  against 
M.  La  Salle,  who  had  brought  him  thither  to  make  him 
perish  in  a  nasty  lake,  and  lose  the  glory  he  had  acq'iired 
by  his  long  and  happy  navigation  on  the  ocean."  On  the 
27th,  favored  with  less  adverse  winds,  they  arrived  dur- 
ing the  night  at  Michillimackinack  and  anchored  in  the 
bay,  where  they  report  six  fathoms  of  water  and  a  clay 
bottom.  This  bay  they  state  is  protected  on  the  south- 
west, west  and  northwest,  but  open  to  the  south.    The 


'U 


WB8TKRN    LAKES. 


Lake  Erie, 
iioulh  of  the 
at  Lnke  St. 
I.     After  bc- 
;  nt   the  bot- 
succceiletl  in 
ist,  chanting 
lion  thus  far. 
,  they  sailed 
ig,  when  the 
ncnaw  Hay, 
Itl),  and  was 
til  next  day 
se  until  mid- 
need  into  the 
wind,  which 
fely.     On  the 
them  to  send 
(d  in,  for  they 

jiled  him,  the 

prnynrs  and 

ey  could  not 

u  the  contra- 

wear  against 

to  make  him 

[had  acq'iired 

n."    On  the 

arrived  dur- 

hored  in  the 

r  and  a  clay 

|n  the  south* 

Isouth.    The 


savages  were  struck  dumb  with  astonishment  at  the  iize 
of  their  vessel,  and  the  noise  of  their  guns. 

Here  they  regaled  themselves  on  the  delicious  trout, 
which  they  described  as  being  from 50  to  60  lbs.  in  weight 
ond  as  affurdiag  the  savages  their  principal  subsistence. 
On  the  2:1  of  September,  they  lel'l  Mackinac,  entered 
Lake  Michigan,  (Illinois,)  and  sailed  40  leagues  to  an 
islani  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bay  of  Puara,  (Green  Bay.) 
From  this  place  La  Salle  determined  to  sen  J  back  the 
ship  la.len  with  furs  to  Niagara.  The  pilot  and  five  men 
embarked  in  lier,  and  on  the  10th  she  fired  a  gun  and  set 
sail  rn  her  return  with  a  favorable  wind.  Nothing  more 
was  heard  from  her,  and  she  undoubtedly  foundered  in 
Lake  Huron,  with  all  on  board.  Her  cargo  was  rich, 
and  valued  at  00,000  livres. 

Thus  ended  the  first  voyage  of  the  first  ship  that  sailed 
over  the  Western  Lakes.  What  a  contrast  is  presented 
between  the  s^jlont  waves  and  unbroken  forests  which  wit* 
nesseJ  the  course  of  that  adventurous  bark,  an  1  the  busy 
hum  of  commerce  whicli  now  rises  from  the  fertile  bot- 
toms, anl  the  thousan.l  ships  and  smoking  palaces  which 
now  furrow  the  surface  of  those  inland  seas  ! 


The  first  vessel  hearing  the  American  flag  upon  Lake 
Erie,  was  the  sloop  Detroit,  of  70  tons,  built  in  1796. 

In  1797  the  schooner  Wilkinson,  of  Detroit,  was  builtj 
her  capacity  was  80  tons. 

In  nOO  the  Good  Intent,  of  35  tons  was  built  j  she  was 
wrecked  in  1S06. 

In  1799,  the  government  built  the  "  John  Adams"  and 
"  Tracy." 

In  1805,  the  schooner  Nancy  was  built  by  the  United 
Sta'esat  Black  Rock. 

In  1S06,  the  "Contractor"  was  built  by  Porter,  Bar. 
ton  &  Co. 


I.l 


1 


.!  f 


'  ! 


.  5  vi: 


I    I 


I 


fl' 


I 


m 


STA'TIHTinS   i)r    ATlCAMKItn. 


In  HIO,  the  "  Cnlhfrine"  was  built. 

In  ISIS,  thn  lirj^t  stfamlxmt,  "  VVnlk-in-tlic-Wntcr," 
was  hiiilt  lit  niiick  llocli  ;  nt  which  tim<!  there  were,  in 
all,  ahont  thirty  sail  of  vessels  on  the  Upper  LakcR. 

In  IS2I,  two  new  ftomnbonts  were  built. 

In  ISi,5,  tliree  more  were  ad  lc;l  ;  from  this  p'^riod  to 
IS32,  fmir  steamboats  were  built,  ami  the  whole  number 
of  steamboats  in  liU,  was  upwards  of  lil\y,  and  the 
number  of  sailing  vessels  little  short  of  three  hundred, 


We  eopy  fron  the  nuFVAr.o  Com.meucial  Adverti- 
ser of  May  3,  ISi:},  the  following  : 

STATISTICS  OF  STEAMERS. 

The  present  mouth  compl«;tes  u  quarter  of  a  century 
siaee  the  lirst  steamer  was  launched  upon  the  western 
lakes.  Durin;;  that  period  c)mnu;es  of  vast  mai^nitude 
have  been  ellected  by  tlie  application  ol'the  mighty  agent 
steam.  Dense  forests  which  frowned  I'rom  the  margin  of 
these  great  lakes  have  ueen  I'elleil  to  give  place  to  thriving 
villages,  and  the  moody  aboriginal  occupant  who  gazed 
with  wonderment  nt  the  approach  of  the  ponderous  vehi- 
cle has  become  extinct,  or  is  known  only  as  a  wanderer 
beyond  the  limits  of  the  Mississippi.  Changes  like  these 
have  characterized  the  introduction  of  steam  upon  the 
lakes,  and  the  indepen  lent,  inquiring  spirit  wl.ich  so 
distinctly  marks  the  habits  of  the  people  of  this  country, 
has  kept  pace  with  the  progress  of  steam  westwardly, 
and  developed  the  fc-tility  and  abounding  resources  of 
the  prairies,  until  they  have  become  the  granary  of  the 
world. 

Of  those  who  early  participated  in  the  effort  to  build 
up  this  new  commerce,  but  few  remain  ;  still  they  have 
vivid  recollections  of  the  undertaking,  attended  as  it  was 
by  a  heavy  outlay  and  much  solicitude  for  its  consumraa- 


BTATIH'riCH    UF    HTKAMUUB. 


908 


tion.  To  them,  if  nut  to  these  now  actively  pn^aged  in 
its  pi'oHC(Mit!:>ri,  n  list  of  Btciuncrs  down  to  the  present 
HCHson  inusr  be  intorcstiii?,  and  we  hive  at  no  inconside- 
ruble  time  and  trouble,  been  enabled  to  make  up  the  ta< 
ble  below.  In  urrani^ina;  it  we  have  endeavored  to  be 
correot,  but  may  have  fallen  into  mistakes,  in  consequence 
of  the  waul  of  ofliciul  data.  Should  such  be  the  ciiee, 
those  at  the  west  who  have  records  us  authority,  will 
make  corrections  and  call  attention  in  some  suitable  man- 
ner, as  we  are  desirous  to  obtain  such  information.  The 
list  of  boats,  with  place  and  date  of  building,  together 
with  their  tonnage,  will  be  found  annexed. 

NAMF).  TONS.      CLASS, 

Walk-in-the. Water,  .  342    Low 


Low 
Low 
Low 
High 
Low 


WHERB  AKD  WHEN  RttltT. 

Uluck  llock,..  .  1S18 

Jlull'alo,    1822 

'•         1824 

Black  Rock,. 


(I 


Superior, 300 

Chippewa 100 

Henry  Clay 34S 

Pioneer, 230 

N'ugnra, 180 

William  Penn, 275    Low     Erie,. 

Enterprise, 250    High    Clevela^.d, 

Peacock,  120    High    Barcelona, 

Newburyport, 75    High    Erie, 

Thompson, 242    Low     Huron, 1830 

Ohio, 187     High    L.  Sandusky,. . 

Adelaide,  .....  i *30    Low     Chippewa,    ... 

Gratiot, 63    High    Charleston, 


1825 

(( 

1826 


1829 


1831 


Pcnnsylvanir., 395 

New- York, 325 

Brady 100 


K 


Uncle  Sam, 


280 


Perseverance,    50 

Washington,  (Isl)...  609 

Michigan 472 

Daniel  Webster, 358 

Detroit, 240 

Lady  of  the  Lake,. . .  60    High    Mt.  Clemens,.. 

Gov.  Marcy, 161     Low     Black  Rock,. 

North  America, 362    High    Conneaut,... 

Newberry,  170    High    Palmer, 

Delaware, 170    High    Huron, 


High    Erie, 1832 

High    Black  Rock,. 

High    - 

Low 

High 

Low 

Low 

Low 

High 


(I 


Detroit,    " 

r     s  Isle, 

L.ie, 

Huron, 1833 

Detroit, " 

Black  Kock,. 
Toledo, 


u 
(• 
(( 
(( 


204 


STATISTICS    OF    STEAMKRS. 


t     . 


NAME.  TONS. 

Victory, 77 

Gen.  Porter, 342 

Jeli'erson, 428 

Com.  Perry, 352 

Monroe, 341 

Mazeppa 130 

Sandusky, 377 

Minnesselunk, 250 

Jackson, 50 

Jack  Downing, 80 

Little   Western, 60 

Robert  Fulton,*. 308 

Columbus, 391 

Charles  Townsend,. .  312 

United  States, 3(i6 

Chicaaio 166 

W.  F.  P.  Taylor,....     95 

Thames 160 

DeWitt  Clinton, 493 

Julia  Palmer, 300 

Little   Erie, 149 

Barcelona, 102 

United 37 

St.  Clair, 250 

Don  Quixotte, 80 

Crockett, 18 

Cincinnati, 116 

Illinois, 755 

Rochester,  472 

Madison, 630 

Cleveland, 5S0 

Wisconsin, 700 

Erie 497 

Constellation,    483 

Bunker  Hill, 457 

Constitution, 443 

New  England, 416 

Milwaukie, 401 

Anthony  Wayne,. . .     390 

Macomb, 101 

Star, 128 

Commerce, 80 

Mason,   33 

GreT*  Western, 780 


CLASS. 

Low 

Low 

Low 

High 

High 

High 

Low 

Low 

High 

High 

High 

High 

High 

Low 

High 

High 

Hiuh 

High 

High 

Low 

I^ow 

Low 

High 

High 

High 

High 

High 

Low 

High 

High 

Low 

Low 

Low 

Low 

High 

High 

Low 

Low 

High 

High 

High 

High 

High 

High 


WHERE  AND  WMEN  BUrLT. 

Bulialo,   1834 

Black  Rock,. . .  " 

Erie " 

Perrysburgh, . .  " 

Monroe, " 

BuHalo, " 

Sandusky, '* 

GoJerich, " 

Mt.  Clemens,. .  " 

Sandusky,  ....  " 

Chatham, " 

Cleveland, 1835 

Huron, ** 

Buflalo, " 

Huron, " 

St.  Josephs,..  .  " 

Silver  Creek,..  " 

Chatham, *' 

Huron, 1836 

Buffalo, *• 

Detroit " 

Dunville, " 

Detroit, ** 

Sandusky,   ....  " 

Toledo, " 

Bruner&burgh, .  '* 

Sandusky, " 

Detroit, 1837 

Richmond,  ....  '* 

Erie, •' 

Huron, " 

Conneant, " 

Erie, " 

Charleston,....  " 

•  •  •  • 

Conneaut, " 

Black  Rock,. . .  •' 

Grand  Island,.  '* 

Perrysburgh. . .  " 

Mt.  Clemens,..  ** 

Belvidere, ** 

Sandusky, " 

Grand  Rapids,.  " 

Huron, 1838 


STATISTICS    OF    STEAMERS. 


205 


WHEN  BUrLT. 

Ka«    •     • 

1834 
<( 

;h, .. 

<< 

<( 

(( 

(( 

ens,.. 

•  •  •  • 

It 
it 
<( 

,  . . .. 

1835 

(C 

(1 

hs,. . . 
eek,.. 

(( 
<( 
<l 

1 

1836 

(1 

(( 

<( 

,  •  • « • 
ngh, 

<( 

>  •  *** 
,  . . . 

.  1837 

<( 

(( 

,. . .. 

<( 

[1,. . . 

•  •  • 

• 

(t 

• 

and, 
gh.. 
?ns,. 

•   •  •  • 

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

•   •  • 

(( 
!*.  1838 

NAMID.  TONS.  CLASS. 

Buffalo,  613  Low 

Chesapeake, 412  Low 

Vermilion, 3S5  High 

Lexington, 363  Low 

Fail-port,    259  High 

Red  Jacket, 148  Low 

Vance, 75  High 

James   Allen, 258  Low 

Washington  (2d)....  330  High 

Dole, 162  High 

Trowbridge, 52  High 

Marshall, 51  High 

Owashenonk, 45  High 

Palrtmase, 56  High 

Gen.  Scott, 240  High 

Chantauque, 161  Low 

Brothers,    150  High 

Kent, 180  High 

Huron,    140  High 

Harrison,  (1st) 63  High 

Missouri 612  High 

Harrison,  (2d) 326  High 

Waterloo, 98  Low 

Minos, 400  Low 

Indiana, 534  Low 

Franklin,   231  High 

Nile,    600  Low 

Union, 64  High 

Caroline,  (re-built,).     46  Low 


WHKRK  «I«0  WHEN  RUILT. 

Buffalo 1833 

Maumee  City,. 

Vermilion, 

Charleston,.... 

Fairport, 

Grand  Island,. . 
Perrysburgh,  . . 

Chicago, 

Ashtabula,  .... 
Chicago,  . .  . . 
Kalamn/uo,  .. . 
Perrysburgh, . . 
Grand  Haven,, 
fct.  Joseph,  ... 

Huron 1839 

Butfalo, '' 

Chatham,  ..... 

Chatham, 

Newport,  ,... . 

Erie, 

Vermilion,  .... 
Maumee  City,. 
Black  Rock,. .  • 
Chippewa, .... 

Toledo, 1841 

Algcnac, 1842 

Detroit, 1843 

Black  Rock,. . .     " 
Ogdensburgh,..  1824 


<( 


1840 


Besides  the  above  list,  there  are  a  few  small  boats  of 
which  nothing  is  known  other  than  their  names.  Among 
Ihe&c  are  t'.ie  Pantanguishane,  Cynthia,  Pontiac,  and  Phe- 
nomenon, making  with  those  above  given,  an  aggregate  of 
27,000  tons,  at  a  total  cost  of  $3,510,000.  One  hundred 
and  thirty  dollars  a  ton  being  what  we  deem  true  data, 
for  building  and  fitting  out  this  description  of  vessels. 

In  examining  the  progress  of  steam  as  applied  in  propel- 
ling  vessels  on  the  lakes,  we  are  struck  with  the  very 
small  number  of  disasters  when  compared  with  other  sec* 
tions  of  the  country,  especially  on  the  western  waters. 


' 


206 


STATISTICS    OF    STICAMBRS. 


In  the  whole  period  of  25  years,  there  have  been  but  four 
explosions  which  might  be  termed  serious.  It  is  true 
there  are  other  disasters  to  record,  whose  calamitous  de- 
tails are  too  freshly  impressed  upon  the  public  mind.  The 
following  tabular  view  presents  both  these  classes : 


EXPLOSIONS.  LIVES  LOST. 

Peacock,  Sept.  1830, 15 

Adelaide,  June,  1830,. . .  3 

Erie,  August,  1840, 6 

Perry,  twice  in  1835,...  6 


BURNED.  LIVES  LOST, 

Washington,  2d,  Je. '38  50 
Erie,  August,  1841, ..250 
Vermilion,  Nov.  1842,  5 
Caroline,  (wilful).. ..     5 


Total, 30     310 

The  incidental  disasters,  such  as  collisions,  wrecks,  &c. 
are  as  follows:  Walk-in-the- Water,  wrecked  in  gale  in 
our  ofling,  Nov.  1,  1821,  total  loss.  Washington,  (1st) 
wrecked  in  a  gale  near  Long  Point,  1833.  She  was  a 
splendid  new  boat,  cost  $60,000,  and  the  first  season  out 
— totally  lost — one  man  drowned.  Delaware,  totally  lost 
in  a  gale  near  Chicago,  in  1834.  Crockett,  totally  lost  in 
a  gale  near  St.  Joseph,  1834.  Detroit,  ashore  near  South- 
port,  on  Lake  Michigan,  1836 — total.  Adelaide,  ashore 
in  a  gale  on  Lake  Michigan,  1840 — totally  lost.  Taylor, 
at  Michigan  City,  1838,  totally  lost.  Don  Quixotte,  lost 
in  a  gale  on  Lake  Huron,  1836.  Thames,  burned  by  the 
"  Patriots  "at  Windsor,  in  1838.  Webster,  burned  to 
the  water's  edge  while  lying  up  in  our  harbor,  11th  Jan, 
1835.  The  Taylor  took  fire  near  the  mouth  of  Cattarau- 
gus Creek,  in  the  autumn  of  1836,  but  the  flames  were 
subdued  in  time  to  save  the  boat.  One  hand  jumped 
overboard  and  was  drowned.  Beside  the  explosions  of 
the  Perry,  she  has  had  two  collisions  with  other  vessels, 
in  one  of  which  a  man  was  killed.  The  first  season  the 
Great  Western  came  out,  she  was  burned  (Sept.  1st, 
1839)  while  lying  at  Detroit.  She  had  been  to  Chicago, 
and  on  returning  across  Lake  St.  Clair  took  fire,  but  the 


STATISTICS    OF    STEAMERS. 


907 


flames  were  apparently  extinguished  until  reaching  De- 
troit, when  they  burst  forth  anew  and  consumed  the  boat 
almost  down  to  the  water's  edge.  The  Cynthia,  a  Cana- 
dian ferry-boat,  was  burned  near  Maiden  in  Oct.  1838. 
Minnessetunk  sunk  by  collision  with  the  Erie,  near  De- 
troit. She  has  been  raised,  enlarged,  and  is  now  known 
as  the  Goderich.  Little  Western,  burned  at  Detroit  last 
season.  Macomb,  ashore  in  a  gale,  mouth  of  Detroit  ri- 
ver, last  fall.  Niagara,  by  collision  with  some  other 
boat,  at  Huron.  Ohio,  sunk  at  Toledo,  in  1837.  Little 
Erie,  lost  in  the  ice  last  fall  near  Detroit,  total.  The 
Sandusky,  consumed  by  fire  while  lying  up  in  our  har- 
bor last  February. 

Of  the  old  boats  which  have  gradually  gone  to  decay, 
we  note  the  following:  Chippewa,  Henry  Clay,  Enter- 
prise, and  Pioneer,  in  this  harbor;  Peacock  and  Pennsyl- 
vania at  Erie;  Marcy  and  Brady  at  Detroit;  Thompson 
at  Huron;  Newberry  at  Maumee  city;  Perseverance  at 
Monroe;  Uncle  Sam  at  Charleston,  with  some  of  the 
smaller  boats  whose  whereabouts  are  not  distinctly 
known.  Many  of  the  larger  class  of  boats,  but  seldom 
used  of  late,  are  laid  up  in  ordinary  at  the  places  nam- 
ed: Webster,  Townsend,  New- York,  Star,  and  Monroe 
at  this  port;  Jefferson  at  Erie;  United  States  at  Cleve- 
land; Michigan  at  Detroit;  Milwaukie  at  Milwaukie. 
The  Porter  is  now  known  as  the  Toronto,  in  the  service 
of  the  Canadian  authorities;  the  Minos  is  the  armed 
steamer  also  in  the  same  employ.  The  Superior  was 
long  since  dismantled  and  converted  into  a  ship,  and  is 
the  only  vessel  of  that  description  now  on  the  lakes,  the 
Julia  Palmer  having  been  converted  into  a  steamer,  and 
the  Milwaukie  lost  in  the  disastrous  gale  of  November 
last,  upon  LakeMichigan.  The  Cincinnati,  J.  Downing, 
Barcelona,  and  Mazeppa  have  also  been  converted  into 


Mrita 


208 


STATISTICS    OF    STEAMERS. 


!     -I 


sail  craft.  The  latter  is  known  as  the  schooner  General 
Scott.  The  St.  Clair  was  originally  known  as  the  Sagi* 
naw,  Rhode  Island,  &c.  of  only  160  tons.  During  the 
past  winter  she  was  remodeled  and  enlarged  at  Detroit, 
and  now  rates  250  tons.  The  Wisconsin  was  originally 
490  tons,  but  now  being  lengthened  sixty  feet  which  will 
add  to  her  tonnage  at  least  enough  to  meet  the  figures 
given  in  the  table.  The  Marshall  is  now  running  on 
Lake  Ontario,  having  passed  through  the  Welland  canal. 

The  Caroline,  whose  destruction  filled  so  large  a  por- 
tion of  public  notice,  was  originally  known  as  the  Caro- 
lina, and  is  believed  to  have  been  built  at  Charleston,  S. 
C.  at  a  very  early  date,  as  she  was  rebuilt  at  Ogdens- 
burgh  as  given  in  the  table.  She  was  very  strong  built, 
of  Norway  pine  and  copper  fastened.  Before  passing 
down  the  St.  Lawrence,  she  ran  a  couple  of  seasons  on 
the  Hudson,  between  Albany  and  Troy,  when  her  guards 
were  shipped  so  as  to  admit  her  through  the  Erie  canal. 
The  date  of  her  destruction  is  at  Schlosser,  Niagara  Co, 
N.  Y.,  2Dth  December,  1837. 

The  number  of  boats  yet  remaining  of  the  whole  once 
in  commission  on  Lake  Erie  and  the  other  upper  lakes, 
is  about  sixty,  with  an  aggregate  of  17,000  tons.  Of 
these,  some  thirty- five  only  are  used  when  the  consolida- 
tion is  in  existence.  / 

Of  the  whole  number  of  boats  put  in  commission  du- 
ring the  above  period,  only  ten  were  built  and  owned  in 
Canada. 

The  first  steamer  known  to  be  upon  Lake  Michigan 
was  the  Henry  Clay,  In  August,  1827,  an  excursion  of 
pleasure  was  made  in  her  to  Green  Bay,  where  Governor 
Cass  was  holding  a  treaty  with  the  Winnebagoes.  After 
the  trer.ty  was  concluded,  Gov,  C.  and  suite  returned  in 
the  Clay.     From  that  period  to  1832,  some  of  the  boat* 


ler  General 
iS  the  Sagi* 
During  the 
at  Detroit, 
;  originally 
which  will 
the  figures 
*unning  on 
land  canal, 
rge  a  por- 
s  the  Care- 
irleston,  S. 
It  Ogdens- 
rong  built, 
jre  passing 
sieasons  on 
her  guards 
Krie  canal, 
iagara  Co. 

vhole  once 
)per  lakes, 

tons.  Of 
consolida> 

I 
lission  du- 

owneii  in 

Michigan 
cursion  of 

Governor 
es.  After 
^turned  in 

the  boats 


STATISTICS    OF    BTBAJVIEHSI 


209 


went  to  Green  Bay,  but  no  further.  On  the  breaking 
out  of  the  Black  Hawk  war,  several  of  the  larger  boats 
were  chartered  by  government,  to  convey  troops  to  the 
disaffected  territory,  and  Chicago  for  the  first  time  was 
greeted  by  the  sight  of  one  of  those  strange  visiters. 

The  building  of  the  propeller  Hercules  is  the  com. 
mencement  of  a  new  era  in  lake  navigation,  and  her  own. 
ers  predict  for  that  description  of  vessels  a  large  share  of 
the  carrying  trade,  especially  upon  the  Upper  Lakes.  The 
H.  is  275  tons  burthen,  137  feet  long,  25  feet  beam,  8 
feet  hold,  and  put  together  in  the  strongest  manner.  She 
has  14  state-rooms,  6feet  square,  with  sufficient  addition* 
al  space  for  the  erection  of  46  berths  more,  and  from  the 
peculiar  symmetry  of  the  H.  she  will  doubtless  afford 
ample  accommodations  for  families  emigrating.  Her 
space  below  for  storage  is  large,  having  almost  the  entire 
hull  of  the  vessel  appropriated  for  that  purpose.  The 
peculiar  feature,  however,  of  the  Hercules,  is  her  engine 
and  its  auxiliaries.  On  examining  the  machinery,  all  are 
struck  with  the  infinite  compactness  of  the  steam  appa> 
ratus,  and  its  perfect  simplicity,  the  whole  weighing  but 
fifteen  tons.  The  engine  is  simple  and  very  small,  lies 
close  upon  the  kelson,  and  fills  but  a  space  of  six  feet 
square.  It  is  one  of  Ericsson's  patent,  was  made  at  Au- 
burn and  is  computed  to  be  of  50  horse  power. 

We  might  here  remark  that  the  weight  of  an  engine 
and  boilers  for  one  of  our  largest  steamers  is  estimated  at 
from  60  to  70  tons — the  dead  weight  of  which  a  propeller 
escapes  carrying.  The  paddles  are  made  of  boiler  iron, 
%  inch  thiC'v.  18  inches  broad  by  30,  and  are  placed  on 
two  long  wrought  iron  shafts,  protruding  from  eitherside 
of  the  stern  post.  The  diameter  of  the  paddles  are  6 
feet  4  inches.  From  the  superb  manner  in  which  the 
Hercules  is  built  and  fitted  out,  having  cost  nearly  $20,000 


210 


STATISTICS   OF    STEAMERS. 


dollars,  it  is  apparent  that  the  enterprising  proprietoni 
are  determined  to  give  the  experiment  a  full  and  fair  trial. 
Another  boat  of  the  same  tonnage,  for  the  same  owners, 
is  now  being  built  at  Perrysburgh,  and  wil)  be  out  next 
month.  The  Cleveland  propeller  was  launched  on  the 
22d  ult.  and  the  fourth  vessel  of  the  kind  is  rapidly  pro- 
gressing toward  completion  at  Chicago. 

Ten  cords  of  wood,  at  a  cost  of  $17,  will  suffice  the 
propeller  per  diem;  while  one  of  our  largest  steamers 
will  consume  two  cords  per  hour,  at  a  cost  of  $80  a  day. 
Some  of  the  steamers  even  exceed  this  calculation  by  33 
per  cent. 


I' 


roprietor* 
1  fair  trial, 
e  owners, 
e  out  next 
led  on  the 
ipidly  pro- 

suffice  the 
t  steamers 
|80  a  day. 
tion  by  33 


TOUR  THROUGH  CANADA. 


The  most  usua]  mode  of  conveyance  from  BufTalo  to 
the  Falls  of  Niagara,  and  thence  into  Canada,  is  by  rail* 
road  on  the  American  side  of  Niagara  river  to  the  Falls, 
thence  to  Lewiston,  v/here  commodious  steamers  leave 
several  times  daily  for  the  different  ports  on  Lake  Ontario- 
There  is  also  another  very  desirable  mode  of  convey* 
ance,  by  steamboat,  descending  the  Niagara  river,  from 
Buffalo  to  Chippewa,  Canada ;  thence  by  railroad,  on 
the  Canadian  shore,  passing  in  full  view  of  the  Falls,  to 
Queen'-' jn,  where  the  British  steamboats  land  and  re* 
ceive  passengers  daily,  during  the  season  of  navigation. 
As  the  steamboat  leaves  Buffalo,  on  the  latter  route, 
it  affords  a  fine  view  oi'  Lake  Erie  and  both  shores  of  the 
river.  On  the  Canada  side,  the  first  object  of  interest  is 
the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Erie,  captured  by  the  Americans, 
July  3,  1814.  It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  oppo< 
site  to  the  site  of  a  strong  fortress  which  the  United  States 
government  are  now  erecting,  a  little  north  from  Buffalo 
loward  Black  Rock. 

Waterloo,  in  Canada,  3  miles  from  Buffalo  and  op-- 
posite  Black  Rock,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  steam 
ferry,  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  west  side  of  Niagara 
river,  which  is  here  about  half  a  mile  wide. 

Grand  Island,  belonging  to  the  Araericans,  is  passed 
to  the  left  in  descending  the  river,  and  is  a  large  and 
valuable  tract  of  fine  land,  mostly  covered  with  a  heavy 
forest,  which  abounds  with  white  oak  of  a  superior  quali" 
ty  for  ship  timber,  great  quantities  of  which,  within  a 
few  years,  have  been  sent  to  market  on  the  sea-board,  by 
the  Erie  canal. 


31 


212 


TOUR   THROUGH    CANADA. 


I; 


'I 


! 


Navy  Island,  belonging  to  the  British,  is  next  passed. 
This  island  obtained  great  notoriety  in  the  fall  and  winter 
of  1837-S,  when  it  was  occupied  by  the  "  patriots,"  as 
they  were  styled,  during  the  troubles  in  Canada.  The 
steamer  Caroline  was  destroyed  on  the  night  of  Decem- 
ber 29th,  1837,  while  lying  at  Schlosser's  Landing,  on 
the  American  shore,  having  been  engaged  in  transport' 
ing  persons  to  and  from  the  island,  which  was  soon  after 
evacuated. 

Opposite  Navy  Island,  on  the  Cann  la  side  near  Chip- 
pewa,  is  the  house  in  which  Capt.  Usher  resided  ;vhen 
murdered  in  1838,  It  is  supposed  he  fell  by  the  hands  of 
8om^  of  the  deluded  patriots. 

Chippewa,  20  miles  below  Buffalo,  and  2  mi.wS  above 
the  Falls,  is  on  the  west  side  of  Niagara  river,  at  the 
mouth  of  a  creek  of  the  same  name,  which  is  navigable 
to  Port  Robinson,  some  8  or  10  miles  west  j  the  latter 
place  being  on  the  line  of  the  Welland  canal.  The  vil- 
lage of  Chippewa  contains  a  population  of  about  800 
souls.  It  has  obtained  a  place  in  history  on  account  of 
the  bloody  battle  which  was  fought  near  it  in  the  war  of 
1812,  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  The 
battle  was  fought  on  the  5th  of  July,  IS  14,  on  the  plains 
a  short  distance  south  of  the  Chippewa  Landing.  The 
American  forces  were  commanded  by  Major  Gen.  Jacob 
Brown,  and  the  British,  by  Major  General  Riall,  who, 
after  an  obstinate  and  sanguinary  fight;  was  defeated 
with  considerable  loss. 

At  Chippewa  commences  a  railroad,  extending  to 
Queenston,  a  distance  of  10  miles.  Steamboats  continue 
the  line  of  travel  from  both  ends  of  this  road,  thus  fur- 
nishing an  interesting  and  speedy  conveyance  between 
Lakes  Erie  and  Ontario. 


Toi;u  'TiinouGA  cakapa. 


213 


le  between 


On  arriving  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Falls  of  Niagara, 
<on  the  route  from  Chippewa  to  Qucenston,  the  railroad 
ears  stop  opposite  the  Pavilion,  a  favorite  public  house 
kept  by  Mr.  Chrystler. 

About  half  a  mile  below,  near  the  ferry,  is  situated 
the  Clifton  House,  a  well  kept  hotel.  The  site  of  this 
Louse  was  chosen  as  giving  the  best  view  of  both  the 
American,  and  Canadian  or  Horse  Shoe  Falls,  which  are 
been  from  the  piazzas  and  every  window  in  front. 

In  addition  to  the  Falls,  there  are  other  points  of  at- 
traction on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river.  The  collection 
of  curiosities  at  the  Museum,  and  the  Camera  Obscura, 
which  gives  an  exact  and  beautiful,  though  miniature 
image  of  the  falls,  are  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  burn- 
ing spi'ing.  2  miles  above  the  falls,  is  also  much  fre- 
quented ;  and  the  rides  to  the  battle  grounds  in  this  vi- 
cinity make  an  exhilarating  and  very  pleasant  excursion. 

DnuMATONDSviLLE,  one  mile  west  of  the  Falls,  and 
situated  on  Lundy's  Lane,  is  celebrated  as  the  scene  of 
another  sanguinary  engagement  between  the  American 
^nd  British  forces,  July  25,  1814. 

The  following  is  a  brief,  though  correct  account  of  the 
engagement.  "  On  the  afternoon  of  the  above  day,  while 
the  American  army  was  on  their  march  from  Fort  George 
toward  Fort  Erie,  ascending  the  west  bank  of  the  river, 
their  rear  guard  under  the  immediate  command  of  Gen. 
Scott,  were  attacked  by  the  advanced  guard  of  the  British 
army  under  Gen.  Riall,  the  British  having  been  reinforced 
after  their  defeat  at  Chippevva,  on  the  5th  of  the  same 
month.  This  brought  on  a  general  conflict  of  the  most 
obstinate  and  deadly  character.  As  soon  as  attacked, 
Gen.  Scott  advanced  with  his  division,  amounting  to 
about  3,000  men,  to  the  open  ground  facing  the  heights 
occupied  by  the  main  British  army,  where  were  planted 


-fO- 


m'     f 


214 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


several  heavy  pieces  of  cannon.  Between  8  nn:l  9  o'clock 
in  the  evening,  on  the  arrival  of  reinforcements  to  both 
nrmics,  the  battle  became  general  and  raged  for  several 
hours,  with  alternate  success  on  both  sides  ;  each  army 
evincing  the  most  determined  bravery  and  resistance.  The 
command  of  the  respective  forces  was  now  assumed  by 
Maj.  Gen.  Brown,  and  Lieut.  Gen.  Drummond,  each 
having  under  his  command  a  well  disciplined  army.  The 
brave  (American)  Col.  Miller,  was  ordered  to  advance 
and  seize  the  artillery  of  the  British,  which  he  effecteJ 
at  the  point  of  the  bayonet  in  the  most  gallant  manner. 
Gen.  Riall,  of  the  English  army  was  captured,  and  the 
possession  of  the  battle  ground  contested  until  near  mid- 
night, when  1,700  men  being  either  killed  or  wounded, 
the  conflicting  armies,  amounting  altogether  to  about 
6,000  strong,  ceased  the  deadly  conflict,  and  for  a  timi* 
the  bloody  field  was  left  unoccupied,  except  by  the  dead 
and  wounded.  When  the  British  discovered  that  the 
Americans  had  encamped  one  or  two  miles  distant,  they 
returned  and  occupied  their  former  position.  Thus  ended 
one  of  the  most  bloody  conflicts  that  occurred  during  the 
last  war  ;  and  while  each  party  boasted  a  victory,  alto- 
gether too  dearly  bought,  neither  was  disposed  to  renew 
the  conflict." 

QuEENSTON,  situated  8  miles  below  the  Falls,  and  7 
miles  above  the  entrance  of  Niagara  river  into  Lake  On- 
tario, lies  directly  opposite  the  village  of  Lewiston,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a  ferry.  It  contains  about  450 
inhabitants,  50  dwelling  houses,  1  Episcopal,  1  Scotch 
Presbyterian,  and  1  Baptist  church,  6  taverns,  4  s'ores 
and  3  warehouses.  This  place  is  also  celebrated  as  be- 
ing the  scene  of  a  deadly  strife  betwjen  the  American 
and  British  forces,  Oct.  13,  1812.  The  American  troops 
actually  engaged  in  the  fight,  were  ccmmanded  by  Gen. 


I) 


r 


TOUR    TIIROUOII    CASIADA. 


215 


li  9  o'clock 
tits  to  both 
for  several 
each  army 
ani!c.    The 
issumed  by 
moml,  each 
irmy.    The 
to  advance 
he  effected 
ant  manner, 
red,  and  the 
til  near  mi^l- 
)r  wounded, 
,er  to  about 
d  for  a  timiT 
;  by  the  dead 
red  that  the 
distant,  they 
Thus  ended 
d  during  the 
ictory,  alto- 
sed  to  renew 

Falls,  and  7 
[ito  Lake  On- 
twiston,  with 
[IS   about  451) 
pal,  1  Scotch 
(rns,  4  s:ores 
brated  as  be- 
le   American 
[lerican  troops 
aded  by  Gen. 


Solomon  Van  Rensselaer,  and  both  the  troops  and  their 
commander  greatly  distinguished  themselves  for  their 
bravery  although  ultimately  overpowered  by  superior  nam- 
birs.  In  ntlt'rnpting  to  regain  their  own  side  of  the  river 
many  of  the  Americans  perished,  the  whole  loss  in  killed, 
woim;!ed  and  prisoners  amounting  to  at  least  1,000  men. 

(Jen.  Brock,  the  British  commander  was  killed  in  the 
middle  of  the  fight,  while  leading  on  his  men.  A  monu- 
ment >tands  on  the  heights,  near  where  he  fell,  erected 
to  his  memory.  It  is  now  very  much  dilapidated,  hav. 
ing  been  shattered  by  gunpowder,  April  17,  1840  ;  an  in- 
famous act  said  to  have  been  perpetrated  by  a  rufllan  of 
iJie  name  of  Lett,  concerned  in  the  insurrection  of  1837. 

The  railroad  to  Chippewa,  terminates  on  the  south  of 
Uuccnston  village,  near  the  monument.  Passengers  are 
taken  from  \  ic  depv't  in  carriages  to  the  steamboat  lan.i- 
ins,  a  short  distance  below,  whore  steamboats  depart 
and  arrive  several  times  daily,  during  the  summer  months. 


Stage  Routk  through  Caxat).\  from  Queenston  to 

Deikoit. 

The  distance  by  the  abcve  route  is  260  miles.  Usual  time 
24,  days;  fare  $13.00.  Stages  leave  Queenston,  (opposite 
Lewiston,)  ever\  day  at  8  o'clock  A.  M.,  passing  through 
St.  Catharines,  Hamilton,  Brantford,  Woodstock,  Lon- 
don and  Chatham,  to  Windsor,  opposite  Detroit.  Leav- 
ing Windsor  every  morning  at  8  o'clock,  returning  by  the 
same  route.  . 

By  the  above  arrangement,  a  direct  line  is  formed  be- 
tween Albany  and  Chicago,  a  distance  of  925  miles  ; 
through  in  8  days. 


The  village  of  Niagara,  is  advantageously  situated  on 
the  Canadr  side,  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  into  Lake  On- 
tario, directly  opposite  Fort  Niagara,  on  the  American 


216 


TOl  U    TllliOUGll    CANADA. 


r' 


I  s 


(iidc.  It  contains ubuut  2,000  inhubituntb  ;  a  cuuit- house 
und  jdil ;  1  Episcopal,  1  Prcsl)}  terian,  1  Aldhodi^t,  and 
1  Jloinau  Cttlliolic  church  ;  10  hotels  and  luvorns,  and  20 
stores  cl' diiiVri'ut  hinds,  'i'liis  is  the  most  noted  place 
in  Canadii  Wist,  tor  l>uildin;{  steiituhoiits  an.l  other  cral't 
navii^iitiii!.'  Luke  Ontario.  ]iere  iii  n  J)(.ck  Vurd  with  a 
iimrine  railway  and  I'oundcry  iittached,  tnpHl)le  id'  mak- 
ing injicliinery  of  the  largest  ile8crii)titn,  und  t;ivini,'  em- 
l)loymcnt  to  a  ^'reat  iiuinher  ol"  men.  It  is  owned  by  tht 
"  Niiigura  Dock  Company."  .         , 

The  Jiace  Course  at  this  place  is  in  liiuh  repute  among 
the  sportii!!;  ircntry ;  and  the  spriny  und  lb  II  races  arc 
munerously  attended. 

Four  Cii;oRi;r.,  situated  a  shtrt  distance  south  or  up- 
stream Iroin  the  mouth  ol'  the  river,  is  now  in  ruins. 
This  was  the  scene  of  n  severe  contest  in  .1813,  in  which 
the  Americans  were  victorious.  A  new  fort  has  been 
erected  on  the  poini  of  land  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
directly  opposite  old  Fori  Niagara  on  the  American  side. 
The  new  foitification  is  called  Fort  Mussofiouga. 

The  v.hole  frontier  on  the  Canada  side,  from  Tort 
tleorge  to  Fort  Erie,  opposite  Ihtifalo,  was  occupied  by 
the  American  army  in  IN  14,  when  occurred  a  succession 
of  battles  of  the  most  determined  and  brilliant  character. 
Here  the  British  rc;:julars  were  met  face  to  face  at  the 
])oint  of  the  bayonet,  and  vanquished  on  their  own  ground. 

The  Welland  Canal,  which  unites  the  waters  of 
Lakes  Eri*'  a*id  Ontario,  is  a  work  of  great  masinltude. 
It  enters  l>;:ke  Ontario  a  few  miles  west  of  Niagara. 
The  enltf^-  work  ^s  now  being  enlarged,  and  though  it 
will  probably  not  be  completed  till  18 16,  it  will  be  navi- 
gable in  l''-io,  (m  the  enlarged  plan.  At  present  there 
are  32  lo«.  '^;  but  when  the  enlarged  work  is  lini^'^d 
there  will  .aly  be  2-\  with  a  lift  of  from  12^  to  14  l\<t.. 


TOVn    TIIUCVGII    CANADA. 


21' 


The  locks  on  lli'fi  old  rnniil  nre  made  of  wood  ;  the  new 
ones  nre  of  pranite,  inmlt'  in  the  host  manner.  Those  at 
each  entrnnec  Irom  the  lakes  ore  to  he  ISf)  feet  Ions?  and 
15  feet  wide  ;  the  other  twenty,  150  feet  lone:  and  4fJ4 
feet  wide.  The  ler.gth  of  the  rnnul  will  he  2'i  miles. 
The  vessels  which  will  pass  throut:h  th(!  cnnul  are  to  he 
11.')  feet  long  and  iMj  feet  wide,  including  all  projections. 
The  schooners  will  generally  be  of  the  burthen  of  4r)() 
tons.  It  is  expected  that  the  chief  portion  of  the  trade 
will  he  done  by  the  new  fashioned  steamers  clled  '*  pro- 
pellers." At  Port  Maitland  there  is  to  be  a  graving  dock, 
which  will  he  of  importance  both  to  the  naval  and  mer- 
cantile interes^ 

There  are  several  places  of  growing  importance  on  the 
line  of  the  Welland  canal,  of  which  Pout  Maitlano, 
Port  Rouinson,  and  St.  Catharive's,  are  the  most 
noted.  •       ••<■■•  '       '  '*     -  "■' 

Ha.mii-ton,  50  miles  west  of  Niagara,  stands  on  "Bur- 
lington Hay,  at  thf  lu^ad  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  42  miles 
from  Toron(>  It  contains  4  or  5,000  inhabitants;  a 
court-hou  c  and  jail,  being  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  Gore 
district;  »  ctt' arches  of  different  denominations;  several 
well  ke^K  hiotels,  and  a  large  number  of  stores.  Its  busi- 
ness is.  increasing,  and  it  has  one  of  the  largest  and  mo^t 
secu5*  harbors  on  Lake  Ontario,  being  formed  by  Bur- 
lin'^tom  Bay,  which  is  so  much  land-locked  as  to  be  well 
sht  Itered.  The  approach  to  the  bay  is  through  an  artifi- 
cial canal  -across  Burlington  beach.  Steamboats  leave 
Hamilton  daily  for  Toronto  and  Lewiston,  and  connect 
■with  other  lines  of  travel.  Stages  also  depart,  daily,  for 
Windsor,  opposite  Detroit,  and  Queenston. 

DuNDAs,  near  the  head  of  Burlington  Bay,  5  miles 
west  of  Hamilton,  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade.  It 
contains  about  t. 500  inhabitants,  and  possesses  a  fine 


I'  n 


1**" 


i   'I 


i  1? 


ii 


f  .?(■ 


M; 


218 


TOUR    THROUGH  CAKAnA. 


water  privilege,  on  which  are  already  erectcJ  several  ex. 
tensive  flouring  mills,  and  other  nianulactiiring  establish- 
ments. The  DesJardin  Canal,  2  miles  long  and  navi- 
gabie,  connects  it  with  Burlington  hay  and  Lake  On- 
tario. 

The  City  or  Toronto,  tiie  third  place  in  population 
and  importance  in  Canada,  is  delightfully  situated  on  a 
beautiful  bay,  formed  by  a  low  sandy  peninsula  called 
Gibraltar  Point.  It  is  ISO  miles  west  of  Kingston,  and 
45  miles  east  of  Hamilton  by  steamboat  route.  Toronto 
signiHes  in  the  Indian  language,  a  place  of  meeting.  In 
J793,  when  surveyed  by  the  elder  Bouchctle,  under  the 
orders  of  Ctov,  Eimcoe,  two  Massasauga  families  were 
the  only  inhabitants  it  contained,  and  the  harbor  was  a 
resort  for  numerous  wild  fowl.  It  was  incorporated  as  a 
city  in  1S34,  when  it  contained  9,254  inhabitants.  In 
l'*42  it  had  increased  to  15,436,  and  now  probably  num. 
hers  IS, 000  inhabitants,  having  doubled  its  population  in 
ten  years.  '  \ 

Within  a  few  years  it  has  greatly  improved  in  appear- 
ance  and  in  trade  j  a  large  number  of  elegant  buildings 
have  been  recently  erected,  and  it  now  presents  as  neat  an 
aspect  asany  place  in  Canada.  The  streets  are  paved,  and 
the  city  is  well  lighted  with  gas.  Waterworks  are  also  iu 
progress,  which  when  completed  will  afford  every  family  a 
bountiful  supply  of  pure  water,  which  heretofore  has  been 
Uiken  from  the  lake  and  distributed  by  cans.  The  streets 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  King-street,  the  great 
mart  for  merchan '.i/.e,  i«.  near  a  mile  long,  mostly  bui'l 
iu  a  substantial  manner  with  brick  stores  or  dwellings. 
Toronto  now  contains  a  Parliament  House  and  Govern- 
ment Offices,  mostly  unoccupied  ;  the  College  of  Upper 
Canada,  surrounded  by  spacious  grounds ;  the  Canada 
Company's  Land  Office;  a  court-house  and  jail,  city  hall 


TOUR  THROUGH    CANADA. 


219 


evera.  ex- 
establish- 
and  navi- 

Lake   On- 

population 
lated  Gil  a 
sula  called 
gston,  and 
Toronto 
ceting.     In 
under  the 
[lilies  were 
rbor  was  a 
»orated  as  a 
jilants.     In 
ibably  nura- 
)pulaUcn  in 

in  ap pear- 
it  buildiniis 
as  neat  an 
paved,  and 

are  also  in 
;ry  family  a 
ne  has  been 
IT  he  streets 
[t.  the  great 
loslly  built 

dwellings, 
id  Govern- 
le  of  Upper 
Ihe  Canada 
lil,  city  l:aU 


^1 


and  market  place,  a  lunatic  asylum,  14  churches  of  dif- 
icrent  dencminations;  5  banking  houses  and  several  well 
kept  hotels,  the  principal  of  which  are  the  North  Ameri- 
can, facing  the  bay,  and  Stone's  Hotel  in  King-street. 
The  public  houses  generally  adopt  the  English  custom  of 
giving  a  lunch  at  noon  and  dining  late,  furnishing  a  sup- 
per in  the  evening.  The  population  are  decidedly  English 
in  their  appearance  and  feelings.  The  prejudice  against 
the  Americans,  or  Yankees,  is  easily  perceived  and  easi- 
ly accounted  for,  as  most  of  the  inhabitants  are  exceed- 
ingly loyal,  have  never  visited  "  the  States,"  and  look 
upon  their  neighbors  as  a  set  of  lawless  republicans  or 
disorganizers  ;  forming  their  opinions  from  the  character 
of  the  patriots  and  sympathisers  who  hover  on  the  fron- 
tier of  both  countries.  ,:.i 

The  Old  Garrison  as  it  is  called,  is  situated  on  the 
lake  shore,  commanding  the  entrance  to  the  harbor  ;  and 
soldiers'  barracks  are  to  be  seen  in  different  parts  of  the 
city.  Toronto,  formerly  called  Little  York,  was  cap- 
tured by  the  Americans  in  1813,  when  Gen.  Pike  the 
American  commander,  was  killed  by  the  explosion  of  the 
magazine  which  was  fired  by  the  English  on  their  re- 
treat from  the  fort.  '  ■' "■     v 

The  steamboats  which  arrive  and  depart  daily  from 
the  harbor  during  the  sea&on  of  navigation,  from  April 
to  December,  add  much  to  the  business  and  life  of  To- 
ronto. A  mail  stage  also  leaves  daily  for  Kingston  on 
the  east ;  Lake  Simcoe  on  the  north,  and  Hamilton  on 
the  west,  all  communicating  with  other  lines  of  travel  to 
different  places  in  Canada. 

THE  FOLLOWING   ARE   THE   PRINCIPAL  STEAMBOAT    LINES 
LEAVING   TORONTO. 

A  Steamboat  leaves  Toronto  for  Hamilton,  daily,  Sun- 
days  excepted,  during  the  season  of  navigation,  stopping 

S3 


1220 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


at  the  intermediate  ports.     Distance  45  miles.     Usunrr 
fare  (cabin  passage)  one  dollar.    Deck  passage,  50  cents. 

A  steamer  leaves  Toronto  daily  for  Niagara  and  Lew- 
iston.  Distance  45  miles.  Usual  fare  $1.50  for  cabin 
passage. 

The  mail  line  of  steamers  run  daily,  (Sundays  except- 
ed) between  Toronto  and  Kingston,  stopping  at  Port 
Hope  and  Cobourg.  Distance  through,  180  miles.  Usual 
fare  $5.00  for  cabin  passage,  including  meals.  Deck 
passage  $2.00.  '  '  '      "  '■ 

A  line  of  steamboats  run  between  Toronto  and  Roch- 
ester daily.  Distance  100  miles.  Usual  fare  for  cabin 
passage  $3,  including  meals.     Deck  passage,  $1.50. 

The  American  line  of  steamboats,  running  from  Lew- 
iston  to  Ogdensburgh,  also  touch  at  Toronto  and  Kingston. 

N.  B.  All  the  above  rates  of  fare  are  subject  to  change ;, 
owing  to  opposition  lines.  <  t    •  v. 

Stage  Route  from  Toronto  to  Queenston. 

Miles. 

ToEtobicoke, 9 

Cooksville, 7  16 

Credit, 4  20 

Trafalgar, 3  23 

Palermo, 7  30 

Nelson, 5  35 

Hamilton, 13  48 

Stony  Creek, 7  55 

Grimsby, > , 10  65 

Beamsville, 6  71 

St.  Catharines, 14  85 

Quecnston, 15  100 

Stage  Route  from  Toronto  to  Holland  Landing. 

To  York  Mills, 7 

Thome  Hill, 7  14 

Richmond  Hill, 3  17 

"^      New  Market, 15  32 

Holland  Landing, 4  36 


TOUR    THROUGH    eANADA. 


22^ 


A  steamer  leaves  Holland  Landing  3  times  a  week,  dur- 
ing the  season  of  navigation,  for  different  landings  on 
Lake  Simcoe.  * 

Royal  Mail  Route  FRoar  Toronto  to  Kingston. 

p  Place  From  From 

rtACKS.  jg  place.     Toronto.    Kingsloa. 

Toronto, 0  0  180 

Port  Hope, 65  65  115 

Cobourg 7  72  108 

Fifty  Mile  Point, 58  130             50 

False  Duck's  Island,. . .  20  150             30       ,; 

Kingston, 30  180               0 

.,    Stage  Route  from  Toronto  TO  Kingston,  .i'-^. 

9  Usual  fare  through  $10 .  ■.ws..' 

,,,  ,,  ...         Miles. 

ToPost's, 26 

Bowmanville, 17  43 

Hope, 17  60 

Cobourg,    13  73 

Colborne, 16  89       .  i 

Bullock's, 12  101 

Belleville, 18  119 

Bogart's,    15  134 

Gordonicr's, 16  150 

Kingston 20  170 

Port  Hope,  65  miles  east  of  Toronto  is  the  first  steam- 
boat landing  on  the  way  to  Kingston.  It  is  a  flourishing 
place,  containing  about  2,500  inhabitants,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  fine  tract  of  cleared  land.  Here  is  a  good 
water  privilr"e,,on  which  are  erected  some  manufactur- 
ing establishm.  ;»ts.  ,;,  ;'       -,  *.'     , 

Cobourg,  7  miles  further,  is  handsomely  situated  on  the 
north  side  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  appears  to  good  advan- 
tage from  the  water.  It  contains  about  3,000  inhabitants, 
6  churches,  the  Victoria  college,  several  hotels  and  ta- 
verns and  20  stores.  The  town  is  laid  out  with  great 
symmetry,  has  fine  broad  streets,  substantial  houses  of 


II  il 


ft 


222 


TOUR    TKROUGII    CANADA. 


stoae,  brick  and  wooJ,  and  all  the  external  symptoms  of 
prosperity,  having  a  fine  agricultural  country  behind  it 
for  many  miles.  A  steamboat  runs  from  this  place  di> 
rect  to  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee  iiver  near  Rochester, 
a  distance  of  80  miles. 

There  are  several  other  settlements,  of  less  note,  on 
the  lake  shore  between  Toronto  and  Kingston,  but  Ihey 
are  not  usually  visited  by  the  large  class  of  steamers. 

Fifty  Milk  Point,  attached  to  Prince  Edward's  Dis- 
trict, is  sc  named  from  being  distant  50  miles  from  Kings- 
ton. 

False  Duck's  Island,  30  miles  from  Kingsron,  lies 
near  the  entrance  to  Prince  Edward's  bay,  \thich  is  a 
large  expanse  of  water  south  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay 
of  Quinte. 

Amiikust  Island  is  next  passed  on  the  right  as  you 
approach  Kingston;  then  comes  in  view  Gage  Island  and 
Grand  Island;  the  latter  being  the  largest  of  the  ThoU' 
sand  Islands  which  lie  in  the  St.  Lawrence  river — all  the 
above  named  islands  belong  to  the  English. 

Kingston,  180  miles  from  Toronto  and  212  miles 
southwest  from  Montreal,  is  -idvantageously  situated  at 
the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario,  where  commences  the  St.  Law- 
rence river.  This  place  stands  on  the  site  of  old  Fort  Fron- 
tenac,  having  been  first  fortified  by  the  French  in  1672. 
Next  to  Quebec  and  Halifax  it  is  considered  the  strongest 
military  position  in  Bi'itish  America.  Point  Henry,  a 
high  rocky  ridge  forming  the  east  side  of  Navy  Bay  and 
extending  into  the  lake  for  about  half  a  mile,  is  crowned 
by  a  strong  fortification  called  Fort  Henry,  built  on  the 
extremity  of  the  ridge  and  commanding  Kingston  and  its 
harbor,  and  indeed  all  approaches  to  the  city,  both  by 
land  and  water.  Point  Frederick  is  a  narrow  peninsula, 
lying  between  Fort  Henry  and  the  city.    The  extremity 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


223 


iptoms  of 

behind  it 

place  di- 

lochester, 

1  note,  on 
,  but  they 
amcrs. 
rarJ's  Dis- 
cm  Kings- 

2[ston,  lies 
i^hich  is  a 
to  the  bay 

»ht  as  you 
Island  and 
the  Thou- 
er — all  the 

212  miles 

situated  at 

e  St.  Law- 

ort  Fron- 

h  in  1672. 

strongest 

Henry,  a 
y  B.^y  and 
s  crowned 

lit  on  the 
ton  and  its 
y,  both  by 
peninsula, 

extremity 


of  this  point  is  surrounded  by  a  battery,  which  together 
with  the  fort,  fully  protects  the  chief  naval  dep't,  silua- 
if  I  in  a  deep  narrow  inlet  called  Navy  Bay.    ..  , 

The  Navy  Yard  and  the  Fortificaiiom  are  well  worth 
visiting.  They  may  be  seen  by  procuring  an  order  from 
lae  commandant  of  the  station. 

The  lliDKAU  Canal  commences  at  tliis  place,  and  al- 
though it  is  likely  tD  be  in  some  degree  superseded  by  the 
CHnats  coii?tru'.;liag  arounl  the  rapi:ls  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, still  it  is  anl  will  continue  to  be  a  work  of  much 
im;)ortance  to  Canada.  It  consists  of  a  succession  of  ar- 
tificial canals,  interchanging  with  natural  reaches  of  wa- 
ter,  anl  extends  from  Kingston  to  Bytown,  on  the  river 
Ottawa,  a  distance  of  Utile  over  one  hundred  miles.  It 
is  navigated  chiefly  by  small  steamboats,  which  easily  pass 
the  locks  and  artificial  cuts,  and  move  more  expeditiously 
than  the  usual  canal  cnift.  From  Bytown  to  Mon. 
trcal  the  passage  on  this  route  is  by  boats  down  the  Ot- 
tawa, which  has  been  fitted  for  navigation  by  a  scries  of 
locks.  .  f,        . 

Kingston  was  chartered  as  a  city  in  1840,  and  now  con- 
tains 9  or  10,000  inhabitants.  It  has  rapidly  increased  in 
numbers  and  importance  since  the  completion  of  the  above 
cunal,  and  the  more  recent  location  of  the  seat  of  govern- 
mr.Mit  within  its  limits,  which  is,  however,  about  being 
removed  to  Montreal.  It  contains  at  present  the  resi- 
(1  uice  of  tlie  Governor  General,  handsomely  situated 
about  a  mile  to  llie  west  of  the  city,  near  the  lake  shore, 
and  where  tlielatc  Governor  General,  Sir  Charles  Bagoi, 
died,  May  10, 1S43.  The  present  Governor  General  is  Sir 
Charles  T.  Metcalfe,  who  has  the  reputation  of  great  en- 
ergy  of  character,  combined  with  moderation  and  eminent 
administrative  abilities.  Here  also  is  the  Parliament 
House,  first  erected  for  a  hospital,  in  which  the  Provia- 


I* 


&24 


TOUn    THROUGH    CANADA. 


cial  Parliament  held  its  session  annually;  government 
offices,  barracks  for  soldiers,  a  large  penitentiary  build- 
ing, a  court-house  and  jail,  a  custom-house,  and  a   new 

id  splendid  town  hall  and  marVrt;  7  churches  of  differ- 
ofti  denominations;  4  banking  houses;  1  marine  and  two 
fire  insurance  companies;  20  hotels  and  taverns,  and 
about  150  stores  of  different  kinds.  The  public  houses 
most  frequented  by  travellers,  are  the  British- American 
Hotel.  Lampton  House,  and  the  Royal  Exchange.  The 
number  of  steamboats  of  a  large  class  plying  between 
Kingston  and  other  places  is  about  fifteen,  besides  as  ma- 
ny more  of  a  small  class,  that  run  through  the  Rideau 
canal  and  down  the  rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Mon- 
treal. Steamboats  leave  Kingston  several  times  daily, 
for  the  different  ports  on  Lake  Ontario  and  the  bay  of 
Quinte,  giving  life  and  animation  to  the  place  during  the 
season  of  navigation. 

Within  the  city  limits,  a  short  distance  from  the  Par- 
liament House,  have  recently  been  discovered  two  valua- 
able  Mineral  Springs,  on  the  premises  of  Mr.  Morton, 
near  the  lake.  The  water  was  found  by  borinc:,  one  to 
the  depth  of  145  feet,  and  the  other  85  feet.  From  the 
analysis  of  the  first,  it  appears  to  belong  to  the  same 
class,  and  nearly  of  the  same  component  parts,  as  the 
Cheltenham  Spring  of  England,  although  not  so  much 
impregnated  with  common  salt. 

TO  AN  IMPERIAL  PINT. 

Cheltenham.    Kingston. 
Grains,  Grains. 

ComraonSalt, 70.14  45.64 

Chloride  of  Calcium, 7.48  35.09 

Chloride  of  Magnesium, 3.60  15.43 

Sulphate  of  Soda. 17.55  21.36 

Total  grains, 98.23  117.52 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


225 


rernment 
ry  builil- 
{]  a  new 
of  diffei- 

and  two 
rns,  nnl 
ic  houses 
American 
;e.     The 

betwocti 
?s  as  ma- 
!  Rideau 
I  to  Mon- 
ies daily. 
e  bay  of 
uring  the 

the  Par- 
o  valua- 
Morton. 
,  one  to 
rom  thf 
.10  same 
,  as  the 
so  much 


igston. 
rains. 

5.G4 
5.09 
5.43 
1.36 


The  othv,.  spring  is  unusally  strong,  and  no  doubt  is  of 
ijreat  medical  value.  Its  strength  is  somewhat  variable, 
owing  to  an  admission  of  common  water.  It  is,  however, 
supposed  to  be  mucii  stronger  than  any  other  mineral 
water  as  yet  discovered.  The  following  analysis  is  by 
l'rofess(jr  Williamsoa — Sept.  1843.     .   ,        . 

ANALYSIS  OF  THE  UrPER  SPTIINC-  AT  MR.  MORTON's. 

Specific  gravity,   1.0432 

la  Imperial  Pint. 

Carbonate  of  Lime, 3.2631    ' 

Carbcnate  of  Magnesia, 11-2653 

Sulphate  of  Lime, 3-4716 

Chloride  of  Sodium, 261.3108 

SuIphnteofMacnesia, 4.3092 

Chloride  of  Calcium, 112-8025 

Chloride  of  Magnesium, 60.8475 

Iodine  and  Bromine,  (Traces.) 

Tf.tal  grains,  ...... . ;  .  ' 457.2700 

Gases,  Carhonic  x\cid  Gas. 

An  extensive  bath-house  has  recently  been  erected  by 
the  piopriptor  of  the  above  springs,  and  other  accommo- 
dations for  visitors  are  contemplated.  ,;.,    t^ .. 

From  the  analysis  and  increasing  celebrity  of  these 
springs,  owing  to  their  medicinal  properties,  it  is  by  ma- 
ny predicted  that  Kingston  will  become  celebrated  as  a 
place  of  resort  for  invalids  and  others  who  may  wish  to 
visit  these  restorative  fountains.  Carriages  may  at  all 
limes  of  the  day  be  found  in  waiting  near  the  principal 
hotels  to  convey  passengers  to  the  springs,  which  are  well 
worthy  of  a  visit  by  all  (Strangers. 


r.52 


226 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA 


•-,:l! 


T.vni.F,  or  distances  between  Kinostox  h  Montreal. 

i"    '     •  p  .  Place  From  From 

"'*''"•  to  place.     Kitigstou.   Monircul. 

Kingston 0  0  212 

Gannnoqui, 20  $0  1!)2 

Brockville, 40  90  ir>2 

Mahlanil, 4  it  14S 

Prescott,  or  Ogdensbvrgh,  . .  S  7^  140 

(ia!op  Rapids, 7  79  133 

Matilda,  9  8»  124 

Williamsburirh, 7  95  117 

Dickinson's  Landing, 15  110  102 

Cornwall,  by  canal,  passing 

the  Long  Sault  Rapids,.. .  12  122  90 

St.  Regis, 4  12fi  8(> 

Lake  St.  Francis, 2  12S  S4 

Lancaster 15  143  60 

CoteauduLac, ..  20  163  49 

Cascades,  by  stage,  passing 

the  Cedar  Rapids, 16  179  33 

La   Chine,   passing   through 

Lake  St.  Louis 24  203  fl 

Mo.ntrkal,    by  stage, 9  212  0 

On  leaving  Kingston  to  descend  the  St.  Lawrence,  you 
enter  at  once  among  the  remarkable  group  of  the  Thou- 
sand Islands,  which  stretch  along  the  river  lor  more  than 
thirty  miles.  "  The  main  stream  of  the  St.  Lawrence." 
says  Buckingham  "  as  it  flows  from  the  eastern  termina- 
tion of  Lake  Ontario;  is  12  or  15  miles  wide,  from  Kings- 
ton to  Cape  Vincent,  across  Grand  Island;  but  it  is  so 
thickly  studded  with  Islands,  that  it  is  like  passing  through 
a  vast  archipelago,  rather  than  navigatinjr  a  mighty  river. 
Though  this  extensive  range  bears  the  name  of  the  Thou- 
sand Isles,  it  is  said  that  there  are  more  than  1,500  of 
them.  The  largest  are  from  8  to  12  miles  in  length,  and 
from  3  to  5  in  breadth;  and  the  smallest  of  them  cover 
perhaps  an  acre  of  space.  They  are  for  the  most  part 
rocky  islets,  sometimes  rising  in  abrupt  cliiTs  from  the 
water,  and  so  bold  and  steep  that  you  may  run  the  boat 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


227 


)NTREA1.. 

From 

Monirc;il. 

m 

lit 

us 

MO 
133 
VM 
117 

102 

90 

8() 
S4 
6<) 
49 

33 

9 
0 

•ence,  you 
le  Thou- 
more  than 
awrcnce," 
termina- 
oiii  Kings- 
xi  it  is  so 
tlirouJ*h 
lity  river, 
the  Thou- 
11  1,500  of 
ength,anJ 
lem  cover 
most  part 
from  the 
the  boat 


near  enough  almost  to  touch  the  clifls  from  the  vessel. 
A  few  only  are  low  and  flat;  but  being  nearly  all  wood* 
eJ,  they  form  a  perpetual  succession  of  the  most  roman* 
lically  beautiful  and  picturesque  groups  that  can  be  con< 
ceived." 

After  clearing  the  Thousand  Islands  the  river  contracts 
to  about  two  miles  in  width,  and  presents  a  magnificent 
appearance.  The  cultivated  fields  and  settlements  inter- 
changing with  bolder  features,  along  its  banks,  impart  a 
grandeur,  as  well  as  a  variety  and  beauty,  to  the  river 
and  its  shores ;  which  no  other  stream  on  the  continent 
possesses  in  an  equal  degree. 

Gananoqui,  20  miles  below  Kingston,  is  usually  the 
first  landing  made  by  the  British  steamers  in  descending 
the  river,  unless  they  stop  to  take  in  wood  at  some  of  the 
islands. 

Wells'  Island,  one  of  the  largest  of  the  Thousand  Is- 
lands attached  to  the  United  States,  lies  a  short  distance 
below,  opposite  the  village  of  Alexandria,  on  the  Ame- 
rican shore.  This  island  was  the  scene  of  a  high-handed 
piece  of  piracy,  in  May  1833.  The  following  is  a  state- 
ment of  the  affair  as  narrated  by  Capt.  J.  B.  Armstrong. 
'*  The  British  steamer.  Sir  Robert  Peel,  while  stopping 
at  Wells'  Island,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  in  wood,  was 
boarded  at  midnight  by  a  set  of  men,  two  of  whom  seized 
the  commander  of  the  boat,  as  he  came  on  deck,  by  the 
shoulders,  while  a  third  one  presented  a  musket  with  fixed 
bayonet  to  his  breast  and  ordered  him  to  proceed  on 
shore,  which  order  he  quietly  obeyed  between  his  two 
captors.  The  crew  and  passengers,  several  of  whom 
were  ladies,  were  disposed  of  in  a  similar  manner.  The 
boat  was  then  robbed  of  all  the  most  valuable  articles, 
including  a  considerable  amount  of  money,  and  set  on  fire. 


^28 


TOUIl    TUUOUGH    CANADA. 


The  notorious  Bill  Johnson  was  supposed  to  have  been 
the  leader,  assisted  by  Canadian  patriots. 

BuocKvii.LK,  fiO  miles  below  Kingston,  is  delightfully 
fiituated  on  the  northwest  side  of'tlicSt.  Lawrence,  where 
it  is  about  two  miles  wide.  More  is  u  convenient  steam- 
boat landing,  where  the  American  and  English  passa^'C 
boats  usually  land  on  their  trips  up  and  down  the  river. 
It  contains  about  KiOO  inhabitants,  2r)0  dwellins;  houses, 
4  churches,  a  court  house  and  jail,  and  several  well  kept 
public  houses. 

Nearly  opposite  lies  thevillasfe  of  MoHRTSTOwv,on  the 
American  shore,  11  miles  above  Ojjdensburgh.  It  con. 
tains  about  250  inhabitants.  40  dwelling  houses,  2church- 
*is,  2  taverns,  3  stores,  2  store-houses,  and  1  steum  grist 
mill.  This  is  a  regular  landing  place  fur  passage  boats 
passing  up  and  down  the  St.  Lawrence;  and  the  stage 
road  between  Utica  and  Ogdensburg  passes  through  this 
place. 

Maitland,  is  a  small  village,  4  miles  below  Brock- 
ville,  on  the  same  side.  It  contains  about  300  inhabi- 
tants,  1  church  and  2  public  houses. 

Prescott,  72  miles  below  Kingston,  stands  opposite  to 
the  village  of  Ogdensburgh,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
n  ferry.  Here  is  located  Fort  IVellington,  a  strong  nnd 
important  fortress  permanently  garrisoned  by  British 
troops.  Prescott  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  con- 
taining 2  or  3,000  inhabitants,  350  dwelling  houses,  4 
churches,  8  hotels  and  taverns,  and  a  large  steam  grist 
mill. 

Windmill  Point,  about  one  mile  below  Prescott,  is 
noted  for  having  been  occupied  in  November,  1838,  by  a 
body  of  Americans  under  the  command  of  Van  Shultz, 
who  had  embarked  in  a  crusade  against  the  British  au- 
thorities in  Canada,  in  behalf  cf  the  patriots.     The  stone 


TOUR    THROUGH    OAHADA. 


229 


windmill,  near  the  river,  was  hii  stronghold,  and  valiant* 
ly  derended  for  some  time  and  at  the  cost  of  many  lives, 
when  the  surviving  inmates  were  all  compelled  to  surren* 
der.  This  was  an  unfortunate  affair  for  all  who  were 
captured.  The  leaders  suffered  an  ignominious  death  on 
the  gallows,  at  Kingston,  whither  they  were  conveyed 
for  trial,  and  the  others  were  transported  to  Van  Die- 
man's  Land,  where  many  of  them  still  linger,  unless  in- 
cluded in  a  decree  of  amnesty  and  pardon  recently  issued 
by  the  British  government. 

Ogdensburoh,  on  the  American  side  of  the  St.  Law* 
rence,  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswegatchie  river. 
It  was  incorporated  in  1817,  and  now  contains  about  3,600 
inhabitants,  450  dwelling-houses;  1  Presbyterian,  1  Epis- 
copal, 1  Baptist,  1  Methodist,  and  1  Roman  Catholic 
church;  2  banks,  5  public  houses,  80  stores  and  shops  of 
different  kinds,  and  a  number  of  mills  and  other  manu- 
facturing establishments.  This  place  is  situated  at  the 
foot  of  sloop  navigation  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  although 
steamboats  of  a  large  class  descend  to  the  Long  Sault 
Rapids,  40  miles  below.  A  daily  line  of  steamboats 
leave  Ogdensburgh,  ascending  the  St.  Lawrence,  passing 
through  Lake  Ontario,  and  touching  at  Prescott,  Morris- 
town,  Brockville,  Alexandria,  French  Creek,  Cape  Vin- 
cent, A'ingsfon,  Sackett's  Harbor,  Oswego,  Rochester,  To- 
ronto, and  Lewiston.  A  steam  ferry  boat  crosses 
the  St.  Lawrence  from  Ogdensburgh  to  Prescott,  a  dis- 
tance of  14  miles.  A  daily  line  of  stages  runfrom  Ogdens- 
burgh to  Plattsburgh  by  the  southern  route.  A  line  of 
stages  also  run  three  times  a  week  from  Ogdensburgh  to 
Plattsburgh,  via  Fort  Covington,  where  it  intersects  a 
stage  running  to  Montreal,  a  distance  of  about  80  miles; 
the  total  distance  from  Ogdensburgh  to  Montreal,  by  the 
above  stage  route,  being  140  miles. 

Q 


230 


TUUR    TIIUOUOII    CAIfADA. 


I  !'' 


I  ( 


Ik  i 
II 


The  Galop  Rapids,  7  miles  below  Ogdensbnrgh,  are 
f^asily  passer!  by  steamboats,  although  they  prevent  the 
navigation  of  the  St.  Liiwrrnce  by  sail  vessels. 

Matit.da,  9  miles  further,  is  a  convenient  lanrling  on 
the  Canada  side  of  the  river. 

WiLMAMSBUHOH,  7  milcs  bclow,  is  a  convenient  land- 
ing, where  passage  boats  u!>iially  touch  nsccndinv:  and  de- 
scending the  river. 

Waddinoton,  on  the  American  shore,  lies  opposite 
Ogdcn's  Island,  which  is  passed  to  the  right,  as  it  is  on 
the  American  side  of  the  line. 

Dickin.son's  LANniNO.  110  miles  below  Kingston,  is 
sitiiated  at  the  head  of  the  Long  Satdt,  which  is  a  dun- 
gerous rapid,  extending  for  several  miles.  The  St.  Law- 
rence Canal,  recently  finished,  on  the  Canada  shore,  ex- 
lends  from  this  place  to  Cornwall,  a  distance  of  ubout  12 
miles.  It  is  calculated  to  accommodate  steamboats  and 
a  large  cluss  of  other  vessels. 

Cornwall,  122  miles  from  Kingston  and  90  miles 
above  Montreal,  is  situated  on  the  northwest  side  of  the 
river,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Canal. 
The  town  contains  about  1,800  inhabitants,  300  dwell- 
ing houses,  a  court  house  and  jail;  5  churches,  20 
stores,  and  several  hotels. 

St.  Regis,  4  miles  below,  on  the  American  side  of  the 
river,  is  situated  on  the  line  of  the  45th  degree  of  north 
latitude,  the  St.  Lawrence,  below  this  point,  being  en- 
tirely in  Canada.  St.  Regis  is  an  Indian  village,  part  of 
its  inhabitants  living  in  the  United  States,  and  part  in 
Canada.  It  contains  4  or  500  inhabitants,  80  dwelling 
houses,  1  Roman  Catholic  church,  1  tavern  and  1  store. 
Here  is  a  convenient  steamboat  landing,  where  during 
warm  weather  may  be  seen  Indian  boys,  prepared  t«> 
plunge  into  the  water,  on  having  a  piece  of  money  thrown 


TOUR    THROUGH   CANADA. 


231 


nrgh,  are 
event  the 

aniling  on 

lient  land- 
ng  andde- 

I   opposite 
as  it  is  on 

mgston,  is 
ti  is  a  dan- 
e  SI.  Law 
I  shore,  ex- 
of ttbout  12 
mboats  und 

,d  90   miles 

side  of  the 

ce   Canal. 

300   dwell- 

lurches,    20 

side  of  the 
lee  of  north 
L   being  en- 
]ge,  part  of 
land  part  in 

^0  dwelling 

Ind  1  store. 

[ere   during 
)repared  to 

Iney  thrown 


orerboard — oflcn  it  Is  caught  bj  these  expert  swimmeri 
before  reaching  the  bottom. 

Lake  St.  Francis,  which  is  30  miles  long  and  flrom  4 
ti>  7  miles  wide,  is  an  expansion  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Lancaster,  16  miles  helow  St.  Regis,  is  a  steamboat 
landing  on  the  northwest  side  of  the  lake,  or  river.  Cj^- 
T.RDONIA  Si'RiNGs  is  30  miles  distant  from  this  place,  in  n 
northerly  direction.  A  new  road  is  about  being  consf  .'uct- 
f'd  to  unite  the  two  places. 

At  CoTEAu  nu  Lac,  20  miles  further,  comm^'nces  a 
rapid  of  the  same  same  name,  extending  about  two  miles. 
Seven  miles  below  this  commences  the  Cedar  Rapiic, 
which  extends  about  3  miles.  Then  comes  the  ^aacade 
Rapid,  which  terminates  at  the  head  of  Lake  S,.  L  -tuis, 
where  the  Ottawa,  by  one  of  its  mouths,  joins  the  St. 
Lawrence. 

'  The  grandeur  of  the  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  these  ra- 
pids cannot  be  conceived  without  being  witnessed.  The 
mighty  St.  Lawrence  is  here  seen  in  all  its  magnificence 
and  power,  being  lashed  into  a  foam  for  miles  by  the  im- 
petuosity of  its  current.  The  Cedars*  have  hitherto  been 
considered  the  most  formidable  obstruction  to  downward 
l)ound  craft,  but  the  new  South  Channel,  first  used  in 
1843,  affords  an  additional  depth  of  v  <>!,"r. 

"  Previously  to  taking  the  Ontario,  v«ow  the  Lord  Sy- 
denham) down  to  Montreal  from  Kingston,  Captain  Hil- 
liard  examined  the  south  channrl  for  some  part  of  the 
way;  but  though  he  supposed  there  was  sufficient  depth 
of  water,  he  was  of  opinion  that  it  was  too  rough  to  be 
navigated  with  safety;  so  the  Ontario  came  down  by  the 

*  It  wus  here  that  Of  n.  Amherst's  brigade  of  300  men,  on  their 
way  to  attack  Canada,  then  in  possession  of  the  French,  wer« 
lost-  At  Montreal  they  received  the  first  intelligence  of  the  in- 
vasion, by  the  dead  bodies  floating  past  the  town.  '   ^  '- 


^82 


TOUR   THROUGH   CAITADA. 


old  path.  These  and  other  facts  had  long  been  known 
to  D.  L.  Macpherson,  Esq.,  of  the  forwarding  house  of 
Macpherson,  Crane  &  Co.;  and  it  is  to  the  sagacity,  per- 
severance and| public  spirit  of  that  gentleman,  that  the 
country  owes  the  knowledge  of  the  existence  of  the  new 
passage." 

The  Beauharnois  Canal,  now  in  the  course  of  construc- 
tion, will  extend  16  miles,  and  afford  steamboat  nariga- 
tion  round  all  the  above  rapids.  ' 

From  Coteau  du  Lac  passengers  now  proceed  by  stage 
to  the  Cascades,  16  miles;  thence  by  steamboat  to  La- 
chine,  22  miles,  through  Lake  St.  Louis.  From  the  lat- 
ter place,  stages  usually  convey  passengers  to  Montreal, 
a  further  distance  of  9  miles.  On  the  enlargement  of  the 
Lachine  Canal,  however,  passage  boats  of  the  larger 
class  will  be  able  to  pass  directly  to  Montreal,  as  do 
now,  a  small  class  of  steamboats,  in  descending  the  St. 
Lawrence.  In  ascending,  however,  even  the  latter  class 
are  obliged,  at  present,  to  proceed  up  the  Ottawa  river, 
and  take  the  Rideau  Canal  to  Kingston. 

A  statement  of  the  canals,  finished  and  in  progress  in 
Canada,  intended  to  improve  the  navigation  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  afford  ship  navigation  from  Quebec  to  the 
Falls  of  St.  Mary  are  here  added.  "  The  line  commences 
with  the  Lachine  Canal,  extending  from  Montreal  to 
the  village  of  Lachine,  a  distance  of  8  miles.  This 
work  is  about  to  be  enlarged,  and  it  will  form  the  first 
link  of  the  chain  which  is  to  connect  the  navigation  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  with  that  of  the  great  interior  lakes, 
through  which  runs  the  boundary  between  the  United 
States  and  the  British  dependencies,  and  to  which,  there- 
fore, the  people  and  the  trade  of  both  nations  have  equal 
and  free  access. 

"  At  Lachine  you  enter  an  expansion  of  the  St.  Law- 


TOUR   THROUGH   CANADA. 


233 


1  known 
house  of 
city,  per- 
that  the 
fthe  new 

•  construe- 
It  naviga- 

id  by  stage 
jat  to  La- 
om  the  lat- 
Montreal, 
nent  of  the 
the  larger 
eal,  as  do 
ing  the  St. 
I  latter  class 
tawa  river, 

)rogress  in 
of  the  St. 
lebec  to  the 
commences 
lontreal  to 
lies.     This 
n  the  first 
vigation  of 
rior  lakes, 
the  United 
lich,  there- 
have  equal 

le  St.  Law- 


rence called  Lake  St.  Louis — similar  to  that  of  the  Tap* 
pan  sea  in  the  Hudson  river — and  have  a  steamboat  navi> 
gation  to  the  Cascades,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ottawa.  At 
this  point,  where  is  the  village  of  Beauharnois,  com* 
mences  the  Beauharnois  Canal,  which  is  to  extend  16 
miles,  to  a  point  opposite  Coteau  dd  Lac,  surmounting 
the  obstacles  to  navigation  caused  by  the  several  rapids, 
known  as  the  Cascades,  the  Cedars,  and  the  Coteau  du 
Lac,  which  make,  in  all,  a  difference  of  elevation  of  about 
sixty  feet. 

"  At  this  last  point  you  enter  another  expansion  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  called  Lake  St.  Francois,  which  takes  you 
to  Cornwall,  a  distance  of  40  miles,  and  on  the  45th  pa* 
rallel  of  north  latitude.  At  this  point  commences  the 
St.  Lawrence  Canal,  now  finished  and  extending  12 
miles  to  Dickinson's  Landing,  and  passing  the  Long 
Sault  rapids,  which  have  a  total  descent  of  about  50  feet. 
This  canal  is  a  fair  sample  of  the  other  works.  It  has 
six  locks  of  solid  masonry,  constructed  in  the  most  dura* 
ble  manner,  each  200  feet  long  in  the  chamber,  by  50  feet 
wide,  with  a  depth  of  10  feet  of  water.  They  are  de* 
signed,  therefore,  to  accommodate  the  largest  class  of 
Lake  Ontario  steamers,  and  most  of  the  ships  that  navi* 
gate  the  St.  Lawrence  from  Quebec  to  Montreal. 

*'  From  Dickinson's  Landing  to  Kingston,  steamers  of 
a  large  class  now  ply,  though  there  are  two  or  three  ra* 
pids  below  Ogdensburgh. 

''  From  Kingston  the  route  is  by  the  lake  to  the  point 
of  connection  with  the  Welland  Canal.  This  work,, 
now  being  enlarged,  is  but  a  continuation  and  completion 
of  this  great  line  of  works  designed  and  destined  to  fur* 
nish  a  continuous  ship  navigation  throughout  the  whole 
extent  of  the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  basin  of 
the  great  lakes,  from  Quebec  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Mary. 


f  ! 


2$i 


TOUA   THROUGH    CANADA. 


When  this  chain  of  communication  is  finished,  and  this 
great  route  of  travel  and  traffic  is  opened  and  in  use,  it 
will  give  to  the  Canadas  an  exclusive  as  well  as  direct 
communication  between  the  vast  and  far  north-west  and 
the  Atlantic  ocean — a  result  which,  unless  counterbal- 
anced by  the  completion  of  our  own  great  works,  espe- 
cially the  Erie  Canal  Enlargement,  will  give  to  the  Bri- 
tish navigation  and  commerce,  advantages  ol  the  greatest 
importance,  and  will  operate  to  the  deep  and  lasting  in- 
jury of  the  State  of  New- York."  ,  ,j      .a^ 


The  City  of  Montreal,  now  thelirstin  population  and 
commercial  importance  in  British  America,  as  well  as 
the  capital  of  the  United  Provinces,  is  advantageously 
titUAted  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  Island  of  the 
same  name,  with  the  river  St.  Lawrence  flowing  past 
from  southwest  to  northeast,  being  here  about  2  miles 
wide,  and  navigable  from  this  place  to  the  ocean  for  shipi 
of  several  hundred  tons  burthen.  Immediately  above 
commence  the  Lachine  Rapids,  through  which  no  vessel 
can  ascend  the  stream. 

The  city  extends  along  the  river  for  about  two  miles, 
there  being  an  inward  curve  to  the  wharves,  which  ex- 
tend nearly  the  whole  distance,  affording  great  facilities 
to  the  numerous  vessels  of  different  kinds  which  visit  this 
port  during  the  season  of  navigation.  The  settlement 
exten  Is  inwards  for  upwards  of  a  mile,  covering  an  area 
of  about  one  thousand  acres. 

On  approaching  from  La  Prairie  above,  or  from  Que- 
bec below,  this  place  appears  to  great  advantage.  The 
towering  grandeur  of  the  French  Cathedral,  the  spires  of 
other  churches,  and  the  spreading  mass  of  well  built 
stores  and  dwellings,  give  the  traveller  a  very  favorable 
impression  of  th^  city  he  is  about  to  enter — and  it  is  in. 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


235 


creased  as  he  views  the  line  of  noble  stone  wharves,  and 
(reads  the  streets,  at  present  celebrated  for  their  good  or- 
der and  cleanliness,  Montreal  being  now  one  of  the  neat- 
est cities  on  this  continent,  though  formerly  it  had  a  very 
different  and  much  less  enviable  reputation. 

The  principal  streets  run  parallel  to  the  river,  being 
crossed  by  others  at  right  angles.  Commissioners- street 
and  Water-street  are  next  the  river,  then  comes  St.  Paul's 
street,  while  Notre  Dame-street,  (the  Broadway  of  Mon- 
treal,) extends  along  the  summit  of  a  ridge,  from  which 
the  water  descends  both  ways,  thus  resembling  in  one 
particular  the  city  of  New- York,  while  its  situation  and 
appearance  from  the  water  remind  you  of  the  city  of  Al- 
bany— .increased,  however,  in  picturesque  beauty,  by  the 
bill  in  the  rear,  called  Mount  Royal^  which  rises  about 
one  mile  from  the  city  to  the  height  of  550  feet,  forming 
a  prominent  object  in  the  picture  from  every  point  of 
view. 

The  island  on  which  the  city  stands,  is  formed  by  the 
junction  of  the  mouths  of  the  Ottawa  with  the  St.  Law- 
rence. It  is  twenty-eight  miles  in  length,  ten  miles  in  its 
greatest  breadth,  and  about  seventy  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence. It  mostly  belongs  to  the  seminary  of  the  St.  Sulpi* 
cians,  a  religious  order  of  Catholics,  and  yields  a  large 
revenue.  Its  fertility  is  such  as  to  give  it  the  name  of  the 
"  Garden  of  Canada,"  to  which  it  is  justly  entitled. 

The  public  buildings  in  Montreal  ara  rather  numerous 
and  imposing  for  a  place  of  its  size,  now  numbering  about 
45,000  inhabitants. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Catredral  in  Notre  Dame-street, 
facing  the  Place  D'Armes,  is  perhaps  the  most  magnificent 
structure  of  its  kind  in  America,  being  at  once  an  orna- 
ment to  the  city,  and  a  towering  beacon  which  can  be 
seen  for  many  miles,  rising  in  majestic  grandeur  above 


I  ( 


;i  ?; ' 


I 


S^36 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


all  the  other  buildings  by  which  it  is  surrounded.  It  was 
commenced  in  1824,  and  opened  for  public  worship  on 
the  15th  oi  July,  1829,  although  not  entirely  completed 
until  1843.  This  edifice  is  designed  in  the  pointed  Gothic 
style  of  tie  .niddle  ages.  Its  length  is  255  feet,  and  its 
breadth  134  feet;  the  two  front  towers  being  220  feet  in 
height.  It  oan  seat  10,000  persons,  with  comfort,  there 
being  1,244  pews.  From  the  summits  of  the  towers, 
which  are  ascended  by  a  flight  of  steps  inside,  the  views 
presented  are  of  great  extent  and  surpassing  grandeur — 
the  city  and  its  suburbs — the  majestic  St  Lawrence,  and 
the  surrounding  country  for  a  wide  reach  in  all  direc- 
tions,  forming  the  picture. 

The  following  just  tribute  to  Montreal,  is  taken  from  a 
late  number  of  the  Kingston  British  Whig: 

"  Montr'ial  is  unquestionably  the  cleanest  city  in  her 
Majesty's  dominions,  although  at  one  time  it  had  the  very 
contrary  reputation.  With  a  population  of  nearly  fifty- 
thousand  souls,  not  a  single  potatoe  peeling,  or  dirt  of  any 
kind  whatever,  can  be  seen  in  any  of  the  frequented 
streets — much  less  a  stray  pig,  or  cow,  and  scarcely  a 
dog.  The  labors  of  the  corporation  in  this  respect  have 
been  crowned  with  success,  and  they  deserve  more  merit 
than  I  can  well  describe,  not  merely  for  the  extreme 
cleanliness  of  the  city,  but  for  the  good  order  and  perfect 
quiet  maintained  both  day  and  night. 

''The  extreme  cheapness  of  cab  and  caleche  hire  in 
Montreal,  is  a  fact  that  cannot  fail  to  attract  the  notice 
of  a  stranger.  For  an  English  shilling,  you  can  traverse 
the  length  of  the  city  and  return;  and  the  cab  drivers  are 
the  civilest  I  ever  met  with. 

"  The  noble  quay  deserves  a  much  longer  notice  than  I 
bestowed  upon  it  in  my  last.  Its  length  is  probably  a 
mile,  and  the  beauty  and  strength  of  its  masonry  far  ex* 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


237 


ceeds  any  thing  of  the  kind  I  have  ever  seen  at  home.  It 
has  no  fellow  in  London,  and  the  celebrated  quay  at 
Great  Yarmouth  is  far  its  inferior.  Dublin  and  Liver* 
pool,  both  noted  for  fine  quays,  may  have  greater  preten- 
sions; but,  in  one  respect,  that  in  Montreal  has  no  equal. 
Below  the  level  of  the  quay,  probably  twelve  feet,  there 
are  most  capacious  wharves,  at  whose  sides  vessels  of 
the  largest  class  can  unload  with  ease  and  safety,  which 
cannot  be  said  either  at  Dublin  or  Liverpool.  In  fact, 
Montreal  has  no  feature  which  charms  the  visiter  as  much 
as  the  promenade  along  its  edge  of  the  quay." 

For  a  full  description  of  Montreal,  see  "  Hochelaga 
Depicta,"  or  the  History  and  Present  State  of  the  Island 
and  City  of  Montreal.  ^    ,„ 

Table  of  Distances  from  Montreal  to  Quebec. 

p,  ^„__  Place  to       From       From 

I-LACX9.  place.     Montreal.  Quebec. 

Montreal, 0  0  180 

Yarennes, 15  15  165 

Wm.  Henry, 30  45  135 

Lake  St.  Peter, 8  53  127 

St.  Francis, 30  83  97 

Three  Rivera, 7  90  90 

St.  Anne, 25  115  65 

Richelieu  Rapids, 20  135  44 

CapeSante, 15  150  30 

Cape  Rouge, 22  178  8 

Quebec, 8  180  0 

The  places  in  italic  are  steamboat  landings. 


238 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


Excursion  to  Caledonia.   Springs   and  Bytow?/  on 
*  THE  Ottawa  River. 

This  has  become  a  fashionable  excursion  (Imirg  wtiih 
weather  for  the  affluent  citizens  of  Canada,  and  h  weli 
worthy  the  attention  of  strangers  visiting  his  section  of 
country  for  health  or  plcasmo. 

The  usual  conieyance  from  Montreal,  is  first  by  st,ac>'! 
on  a  good  road,  9  miles,  to  Lai  hinj:  ITere  the  tou^isJ. 
embarks  in  a  steamboat,  at  the  mcwth  of  the  '  'Jawa 
river,  which,  although  a  tributary  to  the  St.  Lawrence, 
is  a  large  and  important  stream.  The  navigation,  how- 
ever, iS  obstructed  by  rapids,  which  are  overcome  by  a 
succession  of  locks,  until  you  reach  Bytown,  132  miles 
by  water  from  Montreal,  and  where  commences  the  Ri- 
deau  Canal,  terminating  at  Kingston. 

At  St.  Anne's,  20  miles  above  LacUine,  the  steam- 
boat passes  through  a  lock,  45  feet  wide  and  180  feet 
long.  Here  is  a  succession  of  rapids  in  the  river,  and 
several  small  islands.  The  village  is  situated  on  the 
southwest  end  of  the  Island  of  Montreal,  and  is  the  place 
where  the  poet  Moore,  located  the  scene  of  his  admired 
Canadian  Boat  Song,  a  stanza  of  which  we  copy  : 

"  Faintly  as  tolls  the  evening  chime 
Our  voices  keep  tune,  and  our  oars  keep  time ; 
Soon  as  the  woods  on  shore  look  dim, 
We'll  sing  at  St.  Anne's"  our  parting  hymn; 
Row  brothers,  row,  the  stream  runs  fast, 
The  rapids  are  near  and  the  daylight's  past !" 


•  The  Voyageurs  in  passing  the  Rapids  of  St.  Anne,  were  for- 
merly obliged  to  take  out  a  part,  if  not  the  whole  of  their  lading, 
owing  to  the  small  depth  of  water  here  afforded.  It  is  from  this 
village  that  the  Canadians  consider  they  take  their  departure  on 
ascending  the  Ottawa,  as  it  possesses  the  last  church  on  the  Is- 
land of  Montreal,  which  is  dedicated  to  the  tutelar  Saint  uf 
Toyugeurs. 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


239 


Two  miles  west  of  St.  Anne,  commences  the  Lake  of 
the  Two  Mountains,  being  an  expansion  of  the  Ottawa, 
about  10  miles  long  and  8  miles  wide.  Here  a  branch  of 
the  river  diverges  toward  the  northeast,  forming  the  west 
boundary  of  tlie  Island  of  Montreal.  Two  hills  to  the 
north,  elevated  400  or  500  feet  above  the  river  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  few  miles,  give  the  name  to  this  body  of 
water. 

The  Indian  Village  of  the  Two  Mountains,  is  situat- 
ed on  the  north  side  of  the  Ottawa,  about  30  miles  west 
of  Lachiue.  Here  reside  the  remnants  of  two  tribes,  the 
Mohawks  and  Algonquins.  The  settlements  are  divided 
by  a  Roman  Catholic  Church,  standing  near  the  river  side. 
On  the  hill  toward  the  north,  are  situated  three  or  four 
Chapels  The  highest  summit  of  the  hill  or  mountain, 
one  or  two  miles  distant,  is  called  Calvary,  and  is  visited 
by  the  Indians  and  whites  on  certain  religions  festivals  of 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church.  Here  the  river  contracts  in 
width  to  about  half  a  mile,  for  a  distance  of  one  mile  ; 
when  it  again  expands,  forming  the  Upper  Lake  of  the 
Two  Mountains.  About  9  miles  further  west  the  river 
again  contracts  to  half  a  mile  in  width. 

On  the  south  is  passed  the  settlement  of  Rf.gaud,  and 
a  mountain  of  the  same  name. 

Carillon,  8  miles  further,  is  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Ottawa.  Here  are  rapids  in  the  river,  and  the  naviga- 
tion by  steamboat  is  continued  by  means  of  a  lock  and 
canal. 

At  Point  Fortune,  opposite  Carillon,  passengers  go- 
ing to  the  Caledonia  Springs  usually  take  a  stage  for 
L'Original,  a  distance  of  18  miles,  along  the  south 
bank  of  the  Ottawa,  which  affords  some  picturesque 
views.  i 


240 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


■i    '^i 


ft     '       -^ 

1    ■..  :        <!> 


The  route  now  diverges  south  to  Caledonia  Springs,  a 
further  distance  of  9  miles.  Usual  fare  through  from 
Montreal  $4.00. 

Caledonia  Springs,  are  situated  in  the  township  of 
Caledonia,  Ottawa  District,  Canada  West.    They  are  by 
steamboat  and  stage  route  75  miles  from  Montreal,  60  miles 
from  fiytown,  and  30  miles  north  of  the  St.  Lawrence  at 
Lancaster,  from  which  place,  by  a  road  nearly  completed, 
travellers  descending  the  St.  Lawrence,  will  soon  be  able  to 
diverge  to  these  justly  celebrated  waters,  and  with  near, 
ly  as  much  convenience  as  passengers  on  the  Ottawa,  can 
now  enjoy  the  same  privilege.    Both  these  rivers,  for 
grand  and  interesting  scenery  are  probably  not  surpassed 
on  the  American  continent.    The  post  village  of  Cale- 
donia Springs  has  started  into  existence  and  notoriety 
within  a  few  years.    In  1837,  Mr.  Wm.  Parker,  one  of  its 
most  enterprising  proprietors,  located  himself  here,  and 
opened  a  public  house  for  the  entertainment  of  visiters. 
Since  then  there  has  been  erected  three  or  four  more  ho- 
tels, a  Protestant  church,  a  Roman  Catholic  church,  two 
stores,  one  saw-mill,  and  several  dwellings.    Here  may 
be  found  also  a  bathing  house,  a  billiard  room,  a  nine 
pin  alley,  a  race  course,  and  a  circular  railway,  offering 
their  several  modes  of  recreation. 

The  great  inducement  however,  to  visit  these  springs 
is  their  medicinal  efficacy  in  a  wide  range  of  cases — an 
efficacy  well  established  by  abundant  experience  j  and  the 
numbers  resorting  to  them,  dur'ng  the  summer  months, 
are  great  and  increasing,  It  has,  indeed,  become  a 
fasionable  resort ;  and  large  quantities  of  the  water  arc 
annually  sent  abroad  to  meet  the  increasing  demand. 

A  full  description  of  the  medicinal  properties  of  these 
fountains,  can  be  found  in  the  '*  Caledonia  Springs' 
Guide,"  published  in  1841,  and  distributed  gratis  to 
visiters. 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA.  241 

ANALYSES, 

Or  THE  Medicinal  Springs  or  Caledonia,  Canada, 

BT  Dr.  James  R.  Chilton,  or  New-York. 

Gaa  Spring. 

One  quart  of  Avater. 

Chloride  of  Sodium, 89.75 

"  Magnesium, 1.63 

"  Potassium, 55 

Sulphate  of  Lime, 1.47 

Carbonate  of  Lime, 2.40 

"  Magnesia, 2.50 

"  Soda, 1.00 

Iron, 03 

Iodide  of  Sodium, 35 

Resin,  a  vegetable  extract, 52 

Grains, 100.20 

'■ 

C  Carbonic  Acid, 

Gases, <  Sulphuretted  Hydrogen, 

(  Nitrogen, 

White  Sulphur  Spring. 
One  quart  of  water. 

Chloride  of  Sodium, 60.44 

"  Magnesium, 62 

Sulphate  of  Lime, 68 

Carbonate  of  Lime, 82 

"  Magnesia, 3.60 

Iodide, 

Vegetable  extract,  &c, 30 

Grains,. 66.46 

r'oBPc       5  ^^^^o'*^^  ^ci*^' 3.20 

^ases,      J  Sulphuretted  Hydrogen,. .   6. 14      . 

9.34  cubic  inches. 


7 


I 


n 


ill 


.{4 


•i'll' 


Si    ' 


249 


TODK    TllUOlUill    CAKAHA. 


Saline  k'prina;. 

One  qvmrt  ol'  water.       . 

Chloride  of  Sodium,  .  lOS .22 

**  Muu;ncsiiiin, 2.01 

Sulphate  of  Limo. 1 .28 

<'arbonnt(;  of  Liim;, 2 .  00 

**  Mas^nesia, 5.12 

"  Soda, 82 

Iodide  of  Sodium, 3S 

Vegetable  Extrnct, 61 

(iraintv, 120.44 

One  hundrfd  cubic  inches  of  the  Ganfrom  the  Gas  Spring 
analysed,  ii  as  follows  : 

Light  Carburetted  Hydrogen , 82 .  f>0 

Nitrogen, (5 .  00 

Oxygen, l.tyf) 

Sulphuretted  Hydrojjen, 4 .00 

Carbonic  Acid , .5 , 54 

Cubic  inches, 100.00 

The  Georgian  Springs,  near  liytown,  have  also  nt- 
tracted  considerable  attention  A  public  house  is  erected 
over  the  fountain,  and  there  are  bath  rooms  attached  for 
the  accommodation  of  visiters. 

On  ascending  the  Ottawa  from  L'Original,  the  beauty 
of  the  river  scenery  increases,  the  whole  route  from 
Montreal  to  Kingston  being  a  beautiful  succession  of  na- 
tural and  artificial  scenery.  The  distance  is  about  200 
miles  by  river  and  canal  route,  and  is  usually  performed 
in  two  days  and  a  lialf. 

Bytown,  55  miles  above  L'Original,  is  situatecton  the 
southwest  side  oi  the  Ottawa  river,  at  the  junction  of 
the  Rideau  canal,  130  miles  northeast  of  Kingston,  by 
canal  route,  and  120  miles  west  of  Montreal.  It  contains 
about  5,000  inhabitants,  800  dwelling  houses,  a  court- 


•.>.'^> 


I OS. 22 
2.01 
1.28 
2.00 
5.12 
.82 

.  .'is 
.61 

120.44 


as  Sprini! 

. .     S2.f>0 
().00 

4.00 
..       5.54 


]00.00 

e  also  nt- 
is  erected 
achpd  for 

e  beauty 

ute  from 

)n  of  nn- 

bout  2fi0 

er  formed 

eft  on  the 
notion  of 
ston,  by 
contains 
a  court- 


TOUR    TIIROtTOH    CAlfADA. 


34S 


house  and  juil,  this  bcins:  the  leat  of  tho  higher  courts  for 
the  district  of  Dalhousie  ;  1  Episcopal,  1  Presbyterian,  1 
Methodist  and  1  Roman  Catholic  church  ;  several  well 
kept  hotels  and  taverns,  and  u  number  of  stores  of  dif* 
fcrent  kinds.  In  the  vicinity  there  is  an  extensive  flour- 
int;  mill,  1  grist-mill,  and  3  saw-mills  propelled  by  water 
power.  Since  the  commencement  of  the  Ilideau  canal  in 
1827,  Bytown  has  sprung  into  existence,  and  now  pre- 
sents the  appearance  of  a  tlirifty  and  business-like  place. 
Many  of  the  buildings  are  constructed  of  cut  stone,  in  the 
most  durable  and  workmanlike  style,  and  it  is  altogether 
a  desirable  place  of  residence,  being  surrounded  by  a 
fertile  district,  distinguished  for  its  romantic  scenery.  On 
the  Ottawa  river,  are  two  very  picturesque  falls,  both  in 
the  vicinity  of  this  place — the  Chaudiere  falls,  (the 
boilinj^ pot,)  are  in  the  immediate  neighborhood;  while 
11  short  distance  below  the  village  are  the  Rideau  falla, 
(the  curtain,)  so  called  from  their  resemblance  to  dra- 
pery. 


Steamboat  Route  fkom  Montreal  to  Quebec. 

On  leaving  Montreal  for  Quebec,  in  one  of  the  many 
splendid  steamers  which  navigate  the  St.  Lawrence,  you 
have  a  fine  view  of  the  beautiful  fortified  island  of  St. 
Helen,  situated  mid-stream  opposite  the  city;  and  as  you 
are  borne  along  on  the  majestic  current  of  iht;  mighty  ri- 
ver, its  thickly  settled  and  cultivated  shores  coiapel  the 
admiring  attention  of  the  traveller,  by  the  f.&pect  present- 
ed by  their  lines  of  settlements  on  each  side,  as  of  one 
almost  continuous  street,  for  the  whole  distance  of  180 
miles  from  city  to  city. 

LoNGUEiL,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  from  Mon- 
treal, is  connected  with  the  city  by  a  commodious  ferry, 


.»« 


»*..-* 


t!! 


244 


TOUR  THROVOH   CAWADA. 


\{ 


¥i 


•li 


Nil 


•<s 


Hi  ' 


ftnd  a  plank  road  extendi  to  Chambly  on  the  river  Riche- 
lieu. 

The  Rapids  or  St.  MAmv,  are  entered  immediately  be- 
low  St.  Helen's  island;  and,  although  not  formidable  to 
■team  vessels,  they  often  retard  the  ordinary  river  craft 
for  many  days,  in  ascending. 

LoNouu  Point  and  Point  aux  Trembles,  on  the  IhI- 
and  of  Montreal,  are  successively  passed  on  the  IvCl,  and 
BoucHKRViLLE  ou  the  opposite  shore. 

The  Island  of  St.  Theresa,  lies  in  the  St.  Lawrence, 
a  short  distance  from  the  northern  termination  of  the 
itland  of  Montreal,  and  15  miles  below  the  city. 

Varennes,  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  river,  15  miles 
from  Montreal,  is  a  beautiful  place,  and  was  formerly 
much  resorted  to,  for  the  mineral  springs  in  its  vicinity. 
The  massive  church,  with  its  two  spires,  surrounded  by  n 
cluster  of  neat  dwellings,  presents  a  fine  appearance  from 
the  river.  Other  objects  of  interest  are  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance; the  hills  back  of  Montreal  are  still  visible;  and 
the  Mountain  of  Rouville,  rising  grandly  in  the  south- 
east, its  summit  crowned  with  an  immense  cross,  seen  for 
many  miles,  greatly  exalts  the  character  and  expression 
of  the  whole  prospect. 

William  Henry,  or  Sorel,  45  miles  below  Montreal, 
stands  on  the  site  of  an  old  fort,  built  in  1665,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Richelieu  river.  It  is  regularly  laid  out 
with  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  This 
town  was  first  settled  in  1685,  and  now  contains  about 
2,000  inhabitants.  It  is  no  doubt  destined  to  a  rapid  in- 
crease, as  a  canal  is  now  constructed  from  Chambly  to 
St.  John's,  afifording  an  uninterrupted  water  communica- 
tion with  Lake  Champlain.  The  Fort  at  this  place  was 
taken  and  occupied,  in  May,  1776,  by  a  party  of  the  Ame- 


,>^' 


T  r 


TOUR    TlinoUOlI  CANADA. 


245 


verKiche- 

tliately  be- 
aidable  to 
river  croft 

m  the  IhI- 
e  leA,  and 

Liawrence, 
on   of  the 

,  15  miles 
formerly 
s  vicinity, 
inded  by  n 
a  nee  from 
n  the  dis- 
able; and 
le  south- 
,  seen  for 
xpression 

Montreal , 
I,  at  the 

laid  out 
s.  This 
ins  about 
rapid  in- 
Eimbly  to 
imunica* 
lace  was 

he  Ame- 


ricnn  army,  in  their  retreat  from  Quebec  on  the  death  of 
Montgomery, 

Leavins  the  mouth  of  the  Uichefieu,  and  proceeding 
down  the  St.  Lawrence,  several  islands  are  passed  in  suc- 
cession, and  then  you  enter 

Lakk  St.    Pktkr,   50  miles  below  Montreal.     This 
shi  et  of  water,  which  is  but  an  expansion  of  the  river, 
is  about  25  miles  long  and  J2  to  15  miles  wide,  while  the 
average  breadth   of  the  river  proper,  from  Montreal  to 
Quebec,  is  about  two  miles,  and  the  scene  wkich  its  wa- 
ters present,  has  some  features  peculiar  enough  to  be  no- 
ticed.    In  addition  to  the  more  customary  forms  of  steam, 
boats,  of  ships  and  other  sea-going  vessels,   and  of  the 
craft  usually  employed  in  the  navigation  of  large  rivers, 
the   waters  of  the   St.  Lawrence,  more  than  any  other 
even  on  this  forest- covered  continent,  are  frequented  by 
enormous  timber-raits,   commonly  borne  along  on  their 
way  to  market,  by  the  force  of  the  current  alone,  though 
occasionally  aided  by  spreading  a  sail,  or  by  huge  oars 
called  sweeps.    These  floating  islands  of  timber,  with 
huts  here  and  there  rising  from  their  low  suriace,  for  the 
accommodation   of  the  rafl-men,   and  another  singular 
sort  of  craft  with  long  low  hulls,  nowhere  else  known, 
and  designed  chiefly  for  the  transport  of  timber  of  great 
length,  contribute  the  more  remarkable  and  picturesque 
features  to  the  animating  spectacle  presented  by  the  navi- 
i^ntion  of  this  noble  river;  while,  from  its  high  latitude 
and  from  the  characteristic  phenomena  of  northern  skies, 
the  ordinary  as  well  as  the  more  grotesque  features  re- 
ferred to,   are  accompanied   by  contrasts  in  the  golden 
grandeur  of  the  sunsets  and  in  the  varied  splendor  of  the 
Northern  Lights,   both   of  which  are  so  frequent  and  so 
remarkable,  that  they  may  be  very  fairly  regarded  as  ha- 
ft 


246 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


bitual,  anJ  from  which  the  scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
derives  a  magnificence  and  beauty  probably  unequalled. 

Port  St.  Francls,  83  oiiles  below  Montreal,  is  the 
next  steamboat  landing.  Here  the  river  again  contracts 
to  its  usual  width. 

Three  Rivers,  half  way  between  Montreal  and  Que- 
bec, is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  St.  Laurence  pt 
the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Maurice  ;  nearly  opposite  to 
which  and  of  smaller  volume,  enters  the  river  Becancour. 
Three  Rivers  is  an  old  town,  having  been  settled  by  the 
French  in  ]6iS.  It  now  contains  about  3,000  inhabitants 
and  is  '\  ('dace  of  considerable  trade. 

St.  Anne,  25  miles  below  Three  Rivers,  stands  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  mouth  of  a  river 
of  the  same  name. 

The  Richelieu  Rai'its,  45  miles  above  Quebec,  ex- 
tend  some  8  or  10  miles.  The  channel  of  the  river  is 
here  very  narrow  and  intricate,  huge  rocks  being  visible  in 
many  places  during  low  water.  In  order  to  guide  themari- 
ner  safely  through  these  rapids  beacon  lights  are  station- 
ed  at  the  more  critical  points  of  the  passage. 

Cape  Sante,  30  miles  from  Quebec,  is  on  the  north 
side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  on  the  opposite  side  is  a 
settlement  called  St.  Taois.  The  banks  of  the  river  are 
here  elevated  some  60  or  80  feetabove  the  water,  and  are 
almost  perpendicular,  from  which  the  land  extends  away 
for  many  miles,  with  an  almost  level  surface. 

Cape  Rouge,  8  miles  above  Quebec,  is  next  passed  on 
the  left,  when  the  citadel  of  Quebec  comes  into  view,  pre- 
senting a  sight  at  once  grand  and  deeply  interesting,  from 
the  historical  events  with  which  it  is  associated. 

The  Chaudiere  River,  on  the  right,  is  much  visited 
for  the  sake  of  its  beautiful  falls,  situated  a  short  distance 
from  its  entrance  into  the  St.  Lawrence. 


i 


TOUR  THROUnif  CANADA. 


247 


Wolf's  Cove,  2  miles  above  Quebec,  on  the  same  side^ 
is  an  interesting  spot  to  stransters,  for  here  the  lamented 
Wolfe  landed  with  his  gallant  army,  in,1759,  and  ascend- 
ed to  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  where  he  fell  a  victim  to 
his  heroic  enterprise.  But  he  fell  not  alone.  France 
mourned  an  equal  loss  in  the  fall  of  the  brave  and  gene- 
rous Montcalm. 

As  the  steamer  approaches  the  wharf,  the  line  of  ship- 
ping, extending  usually  for  two  or  three  miles,  gives  life 
and  interest  to  the  scene  below — while  the  towering  cita- 
■del  above,  produces  emotions  of  wonder  and  delight. 

QUEBEC,  ' 
May  well  be  called  the  great  citadel  of  America; 
and  it  is  well  worth  a  journey  of  500  miles  to  see,  with 
its  surrounding  beauties  of  nature  and  art.  The  city,  in 
1S31,  contained  25,916  inhabitants.  Now,  its  population 
is  estimated  at  35,000,  of  which  about  two  thousand  are 
soldiers.  A  great  number  of  commodious  buildings  adorn 
Quebec — such  as  the  Government  House,  Hotel  Dieu, 
the  Ursuline  Convent,  the  Jesuit's  Monastery,  (now  bar- 
racks for  soldiers,)  Catholic  Cathedrals,  Protestant 
Churches,  the  Exchange,  Banks,  &c.  The  city  is  nomi- 
nally divided  into  three  parts,  the  Upper  and  Lower 
Town,  and  the  Suburbs — the  last  of  which  is  the  most 
populous.  The  streets  in  the  lower  town  are  narrow  and 
ill-ventilated,  but  wider  and  more  airy  in  the  Upper 
Town,  where  the  most  wealthy  class  of  citizens  reside. 
As  a  fortress.  Quebec  may  be  justly  ranked  in  the  first 
class.  Words  can  hardly  express  the  strength  of  its  po- 
sition, without  the  aid  of  technical  terms.  The  citadel 
is  approached  by  a  zigzag  pathway,  with  thirty-two 
pounders  staring  you  in  the  face  at  every  turn.  When 
inside  the  citadel,  it  lookslikea  world  of  itself.    The  offi- 


248 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


cers'  barrack  is  a  fine  building,  overlooking  Ihe  St.  Law- 
rence. The  soldiers' quarters  are  under  the  ramparts.  The 
magazines  and  warlike  implements  are  immense.  A  new 
prison  is  now  erecting  within  the  walls.  The  escape  of 
Theller,  Dodge  and  others,  in  1838,  from  this  stronghold, 
mortified  the  officers  in  command,  who  caused  the  senti- 
nels on  duty  at  the  time,  to  be  punished.  In  making  their 
escape,  it  is  said  they  used  the  rope  of  the  telegraph  signal, 
lowered  themselves  under  the  walls,  and  thence  fled  into 
the  city,  where  they  were  secreted  for  some  days. 

A  monument  is  erected  where  Gen.  Wolfe  is  said  to 
have  died  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham.  A  beautiful  mo- 
nument is  also  erected,  of  recent  date,  to  the  memories  ol" 
Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  within  the  city  walls.  A  new  and 
delightful  walk  is  now  furnished  on  the  spot  where  for- 
merly stood  the  Castle  of  St.  Louis,  which  was  destroyed 
by  fire  in  1834 — it  is  called  Lord  Durham's  Terrace. 

The  following  description  of  the  city  of  Quebec,  in  its 
present  state,  is  taken  from  Mr.  Buckingham's  late  intc- 
resting  work  on  Canada,  &c.: 

"  The  situation  of  Quebec  is  highly  advantageous,  in 
a  commercial  as  well  as  a  military  point  of  view,  and  its 
appearance  is  very  imposing,  from  whatever  quarter  it  is 
first  approached.  Though  at  a  distance  of  350  miles  up 
from  the  sea,  the  magnificent  river,  on  which  it  is  seated, 
is  three  miles  in  breadth  a  little  below  the  town,  and  nar- 
rows in  to  about  a  mile  in  breadth  immediately  abreast 
of  the  citadel;  having,  in  both  these  parts,  sufficient  depth 
of  water  for  the  largest  ships  in  the  world — a  rise  and 
fall  of  20  feet  in  its  tides — and  space  enough  in  its  capa- 
cious basin,  between  Cape  Diamond  on  the  one  hand,  and 
the  Isle  of  Orleans  on  the  other,  to  aff'ord  room  and  an- 
chorage for  a  thousand  sail  of  vessels  at  a  time,  sheltered 
from  all  winds,  and  perfectly  secure  !    A  small  river,  the 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


249 


St.  Charles,  has  its  junction  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  a 
little  to  the  north  of  the  promontory  of  Cape  Diamond; 
and  affords  a  favorable  spot  for  ship-building  and  repairs, 
as  well  as  an  excellent  winter-harbor  for  ships  lying  up 
dismantled. 

'*  The  Citadel  of  Quebec  occupies  the  highest  point  of 
Cape  Diamond,  being  elevated  350  feet  above  the  river, 
and  presenting  almost  perpendicular  cliffs  towards  the 
water.  The  city  is  built  from  the  water's  edge,  along 
the  foot  of  these  cliffs,  round  the  point  of  the  promontory, 
and  ascending  upwards  from  thence  to  the  very  borders 
of  the  Citadel  itself.  It  is  divided  into  the  Lower  and 
Upper  Town,  the  former  including  all  that  is  below  the 
ramparts,  or  fortified  lines,  the  latter  comprehending  all 
that  is  above  and  within  that  barrier.  Besides  these, 
there  is  a  large  Suburb,  separated  from  Quebec  proper,  by 
the  ramparts,  and  some  open  lawn  beyond  these  on  the 
west,  called  the  Suburb  of  St.  Rock,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  river  St.  Charles,  the  only  portion  of  the  whole  that 
is  built  on  level  ground. 

"  On  landing  at  Quebec,  therefore,  the  traveller  has  to 
wind  his  way  up  through  steep,  narrow,  and  tortu- 
ous streets,  with  still  narrower  alleys  on  his  right  and 
left,  till  he  reaches  the  fortified  line  or  barrier.  Here  he 
enters  by  Prescott  Gate,  on  !••-  right  of  which,  after 
passing  through  it,  he  sees  the  imposing  structure  of  the 
New  Parliament  House,  with  its  lofty  cupola  an^l  fine 
architectural  front;  and  on  the  left,  a  double  flight  of 
mean  and  straggling  wooden  steps,  leading  to  one  of  the 
oldest  streets,  as  an  avenue  to  the  Place  d'Armes.  Going 
across  this  last,  he  passes  the  English  and  French  Cathe- 
drals,  the  Government  OflUces,  and  Palace  of  Justice,  on 
his  right;  and  has  the  site  of  the  old  Castle  of  St  Lewis, 


250 


TOUn    THROUGH    CANADA. 


B"  '     ',11 


and  the  plat/orm  oveilookin<T  the  harbor,  on  his  left. 
Passing  by  these,  and  continually  ascending  lor  about 
half  a  mile  beyond,  he  reaches  the  ramparts  and  gates  on 
the  upper  side  ol"  the  cityj  and  going  through  these,  he 
comes  to  the  open  lawn  in  front  of  the  glacis,  beyond 
which  is  the  Suburb  of  St.  lloeh,  on  the  level  ground  along 
llie  southern  bank  of  the  St.  Charles  river. 

"  The  plan  of  the  City  is  as  irregular  as  the  greatest 
enemy  of  symmetry  could  desire.  The  steepness  of  the 
ascent  from  the  river  to  the  plain  above,  is  no  doubt  one 
cause  of  this,  because  it  was  only  by  making  the  ascend- 
ing streets  winding  and  tortuous,  that  they  could  be  got 
over  at  all;  but  besides  this,  the  inequalities  in  the  sur- 
face even  of  the  Upper  Town,  led  to  other  irregularities 
in  the  form  and  direction  of  the  streets;  while  the  large 
space  occupied  by  the  old  religious  establishments,  still 
further  curtailing  the  lines  in  diflerent  directions,  so  cut 
up  the  area,  that  there  is  not  a  single  street  in  all  Quebec, 
which  can  compare,  in  length,  breadth,  or  general  good 
appearance,  to  the  King  Street  of  Toronto,  or  the  Notre 
Dame  of  Montreal.  The  streets  of  Quebec  are,  there- 
fore, in  general,  short,  narrow,  crooked,  Fteep,  wretch- 
edly paved  in  the  centre,  still  worse  provided  with  side- 
walks, and  not  lighted  with  lamps  at  night.  The  private 
dwellings  are  in  general  destitute  of  architectural  beauty, 
and  small  and  incommodious;  some  few  are  of  wood, 
none  of  brick,  but  the  greatest  number  are  of  rough- 
hewn  stone,  with  high  steep  rooI„,  containing  a  double 
row  of  projecting  garret  windows,  very  lofty  chimnies, 
and  die  roofs  principally  revered  with  sheets  of  bright 
tin.  The  shops  arc  uho  small  and  mfrui,  and  greatly  in- 
ferior, in  the  extent  and  variety  of  their  contents,  to  those 
of  Montreal  ajnd  Toronto;  though  the  prices  charged arOr 
as  we  thought,  higher  here  than  in  either  of  these. 


m 


T\ 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


251 


n  his  left- 
for  about 

id  gates  on 
these,  he 

is,   beyond 

ound  along 

lie  greatest 
ness  of  the 
doubt  one 
the  ascend- 
luld  be  got 
in  the  sur- 
•egularilies 
2  the  large 
nents,  still 
)X\s,  so  cut 
ill  Quebec, 
neral  good 
the  Notre 
tire,   Ihere- 
p,  wretch- 
with  side- 
'he  private 
al  beauty, 
e  of  wood, 
of  rough- 
:  a  double 
chimnies, 
s  of  bright 
greatly  lo- 
ts, to  those 

largedarCr 
ese. 


*'  The  public  buildings  are  scattered  over  the  city  with 
so  much  irregularity,  that  their  position  seems  to  be  as 
much  the  effect  of  accident  as  design,  i^everui  of  them, 
however,  are  so  prominently  placed,  and  advantageously 
seen  that  they  relieve,  in  some  degree,  the  general  mono- 
tony of  the  mas*  of  ordinary  houses,  and  aie  thus  far  or- 
namental to  the  town;  while  the  spires  of  the  churches, 
the  dome  of  the  Parliament  House,  and  other  elevated 
points  rising  from  the  general  surface,  with  their  tinned 
roofs  glittering  in  the  sun,  give  a  liveliness  and  variety 
to  the  picture  presented  by  the  city,  from  every  point  of 
view,  which  no  other  place  in  Canada,  and  indeed  few 
places  on  the  globe  present. 

•'The  earliest  of  the  public  buildings  erected  in  Que- 
bec, was  undoubtedly  the  Castle  of  St.  Lewis,  of  which 
Champlain  laid  tiie  foundation,  on  the  6th  of  May,  !£24. 
The  position  chosen  for  it  was  a  most  commanding  one; 
on  the  very  edge  of  an  almost  perpendicular  precipice  of 
rock,  200  feet  above  the  river,  yet  close  to  its  edge;  as, 
between  the  cliflfand  the  stream,  there  is  only  just  room 
enough  for  one  narrow  avenue,  called  Champlain-street. 
The  castle  erected  here,  was  regarded  as  the  palace  of 
the  French  Governors,  who  received  in  it  the  fealty  and 
homage  of  the  several  Seigneurs  holding  their  lands  ac- 
cording to  the  feudal  tenure  of  the  times.  Ncr  is  this 
practice  discontinued;  for,  according  to  Mr.  Hawkins,  in 
his  Picture  of  Quebec,  the  Sovereignty  of  England  hav- 
ing succeeded  to  that  of  France,  with  all  its  ancient  rights 
and  privileges,  the  King's  Representative,  in  the  person 
of  the  English  Governor,  receives  the  same  homage  at 
the  present  day,  as  was  paid  by  the  Seigneurs  of  former 
times;  this  being  one  of  the  LcnJitions  on  which  the  feu- 
dal tenure  is  sustained.     His  words  are  these — 

'  Fealty  and  homage  is  rendered  at  this  day  (1834)  by 


252 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


"i     -I 


the  Seigneurs  to  the  Governor,  as  the  representative  o' 
the  Sovereign,  in  the  following  form: — His  Excellency 
being  in  full  dress,  and  seated  in  a  state-chair,  surround- 
ed by  his  staff,  and  attended  by  the  Attorney-General, 
the  Seigneur  in  an  evening  dress,  and  wearing  a  sword, 
is  introduced  into  his  presence  by  the  Inspector- General 
of  the  Royal  Domain  and  Clerk  of  the  Land  Roll.  Ilav- 
ing  delivered  up  his  sword,  he  kneels  on  one  knee  before 
the  Governor,  and  placing  his  right  hand  between  those 
of  the  Governor,  he  repeats  aloud  the  ancient  oath  of  fi- 
delity; after  which  a  solemn  act  is  dravm  up  in  a  regis- 
ter kept  for  that  purpose,  which  is  signed  by  the  Gover- 
nor and  Seigneur,  and  countersigned  by  the  proper  offi- 
cers.' 

"  In  this  castle  the  French  and  English  Governors  re- 
sided till  1809,  when  it  was  found  necessary  to  erect  a 
temporary  new  building  for  their  use,  while  the  old  one 
underwent  repair;  and  £10,000  were  expended  for  this 
purpose  under  the  administration  of  Sir  James  Craig. 
After  this  it  continued  to  be  the  seat  of  government  as 
before;  and  all  the  proclamatioas  and  ordinances  issued, 
and  all  the  messages  sent  to  the  legislative  assemblies  by 
the  Governor  in  the  King's  name,  were  dated  from  the 
Castle  of  Quebec.  It  was  also  the  scene  of  all  the  pub- 
lic levees  and  private  entertainments  of  the  Governors  and 
their  families;  and  was  therefore  the  constant  resort  of 
all  the  gar  .^nd  fashionable  society  of  the  Province.  In 
1834,  however,  this  r  ;r;ient  edifice  was  entirely  destroyed 
by  a  lire,  which  broke  out  on  the  23rd  of  January,  in  the 
depth  of  winter,  when  Lord  Aylmer  occupied  it  as  his 
official  residence;  and  notwithstanding  every  exertion 
made  to  save  it,  the  thermometer  being  at  22°  below  zero, 
and  the  fire-engines  only  capable  of  being  worked  by  a 
constant  supply  of  warm  water,  the  castle  was  soon  re- 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


253 


entativc  o^ 

Excellency 

•,  surround- 

ey- General, 

ng  a  sword, 

itor-General 

Roll.    Hav. 

knee  before 

:\veen  those 

t  oath  of  fi- 

p  in  a  regis- 

tlie  Gover- 

proper  oftl- 

overnors  re 
•y  to  erect  a 
!  the  old  one 
ded  for  this 
ames  Craig, 
vernment  as 
mces  issued, 
ssemblies  by 
ed  from  the 
all  the  pub- 
overnors  and 
mt  resort  of 
rovince.     In 
?ly  destroyed 
luary,  in  the 
ied  it  as  his 
!ry   exertion 
below  zero, 
irorked  by  a 
vas  soon  re- 


duced  to  ashes.    It  has  never  since  been  rebuilt;  but 
Lord  Durham,  during  his  short  stay  here,  had  the  site 
cleared  of  the  ruined  heaps  that  still  covered  it,  and  the 
whole  area  of  the  former  edifice  levelled,  floored  with 
wood,  and  converted  into  a  beautiful  platform,  with  a 
fine  iron   railing  at  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  making  it 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  promenades  imaginable — com- 
manding an  extensive  view  of  the  St.  Lawrence  down  as 
far  as  the  Island  of  Orleans — the  harbor  filled  with  ships 
immediately  before  it,  and  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river, 
with  Point  Levi,  the  village  of  D'Aubigny,  and  the  road 
leading  up  through  one  continuous  line  of  cottages  to  the 
Falls  of  the  Chaudiere.     Nothing  could  exceed  the  beauty 
of  this,  as  a  murine  picture,  during  the  period  of  our  stay 
here;  as  atthatmoraent  there  were  no  less  than  six  ships 
of  war  assembled  for  the  purpose  of  holding  a  court  mar- 
tial on  Captain  Drew,  R.  N.,  known  as  the  cutter-out  of 
the  Caroline  steamer  from  the  American  shore,  at  the 
time  of  the  late   Canadian  rebellion.    These  ships  were 
the  Winchester,  Admiral  Sir  Thomas  Harvey,  the  Vestal, 
Cleopatra,  and  Crocodile  frigates,  and  the  Pilot  brig.     In 
addition  to  these,    there   were  not  less  than  300  sail  of 
merchant  ships  anchored  in  the  stream,  163  of  which  ar- 
rived in  two  suctf'ssive  days,   September  Mlh  and  15th, 
and  at  least  100  more  lay  along  side  the  quays  and  wharfs. 
As  the  weather  was  beautifully  fine,  and  the  country  still 
verdant  all  around,  the  sight  of  so  many  ships  seen  from 
a  height  of  200  feet  above  the  river,  with  the  fine  extent 
of '  ountry  opposite,  thickly  dotted  with  villages  and  ham- 
lets of  the  purest  white,   and  the  grandeur  of  the  moun- 
tains in  the  distance  fading  away  into  a  lighter  and  lighter 
blue,  till  scarcely  distinguishable  from  the  azure  sky  of 
the  lar  horizon,  was  beautiful  and  magnificent  beyond 
expression. 


254 


TOUR    TIIUOUGII    CANADA. 


' ;/ 


h 


"  The  Parliament  House  comes  next,  in  the   order  of 
its  importance  among  the  public  buildings  of  Quebec. 
The  site  on  which  this  stands  is  of  even  earlier  date  than 
that  of  the  Castle  of  St.  Lewis;  there  being  good  reason 
to  believe  that  it  occupies  the  first  spot  of  groun  1  which 
was  cleared  by  Champlain,  for  his  fort,  on  founding  the 
city,  in  l(i08.     Here,  loo,  as  at  the  Castle,  the  site  stands 
on  a  mass  of  rock   made  level   by  art,  and   extending  to 
the  brink  of  a  perpendicular  precipice,  of  about  JOO  feet 
above -the  river,  the   narrowest   part  of  which   is   com- 
manded by  its  guns.     Along   the  edge  of  this  precipice, 
beyond  the  area  occupied  by  the  Parliament  House,  still 
runs  the  Grand   Battery  of  Quebec,  the   promenade  on 
which,  and  the  view  from  its  platform    is  scarcely  infe- 
rior to  that  already  described  on   the  site  of  the  old  Cas- 
tle of  St.  Lewis.     On  this  spot,  originally   cleared  for  a 
fort,  the  palace  of  the  Bishop  was  subsequently  erected; 
and  a  portion  of  the  old  episcopal  residence  still  continues 
there  ;  but  the   greater   portion  of  it  is  occupied   by  the 
New  Parliament  House,  begun  about  ten  yeats  ago,  and 
not  yet  completed,  though  promising,  when  finished,   to 
form  one  of  the  most  perfect  of  the   public  buildings  of 
the  city. 

"  Among  the  public  buildings  in  the  Lower  Town, 
there  is  a  Custom-House,  a  Mercantile  Exchange,  and  a 
Public  News  Room,  neither  of  whi(!h,  however,  present 
any  remarkable  features.  Indeed,  all  the  lower  part  of 
the  town  is  destitute  of  architectural  beauty,  though 
there  is  something  romantic  in  the  overhanging  cliffs  of 
the  Citadel,  the  Castle,  ami  llie  Suull-auv  IVIalejiil,  with 
the  batteries  of  cannon,  projecting  over  all  these,  liom 
100  to  3.50  feet  above  the  heads  of  the  spectators,  as  they 
look  upward  towards  these  several  points* 


e  order  of 
jf  Quebec. 
rtlate  than 
ooil  reason 
un  1  which 
lUnJing  ihe 
silcslanJs 
vtenJing  lo 
.ut  100  feet 
h  is  coin- 
5  precipice, 
louse,  still 
nienade  on 
ircely  infe- 
lie  oil  Cas- 
careJ  for  a 
tly  erected; 
11  continues 
ied  by  the 
l-s  ago,  and 
inished,  to 
uildiugs  of 

or  Town, 
n5;c,  and  a 
er,  present 
k-er  part  of 
ty,  though 
g  cliffs  of 
irlid,  vylth 
lese,  ironi 
rs,  as  they 


1 


TOUR    TIIUOUGII    CANADA. 


255 


"The  Sault-nux-Matclot  nns  the  name  given  to  the 
cliff  on  whose  brow  the   Grand  IJattery  is  now  placed. 
The   alleged   origin   rf  the  noine  is  this:  that   it  was 
meant  to  cnmnieinornte  the  extraordinary  leap  of  a  dog 
called  Miitelct,   who  made  u   '  sault'  from  hence  to  the 
river  below,   and  escaped  without  hurt.    1 1  is  probable 
thiit  in  early  days,   the  river  rame  up  to  liie  lery  foot  of 
the  rock,  but  in  process  of  time,  a  considerable  space  has 
been  gniued  from  the  stream  outward  from  the  rock,  and 
on  this  lias  been  built  the  street  called  fcnult-aux-Matelot, 
(from  the  back  windows  of  the  houses  of  which  you  can 
put  out  your  hand  and  touch  the   perpendicular  cliff  be- 
hind them,)  as  well  as  the  street  of  St.  Paul,  and  the 
wharfs  now  used  for  loading  and  landing.    There  is  also 
a  Trinity  House  in   the  Lower  Town,  managed  by  the 
Matters  and  Wardens  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  and  perform- 
ing nearly  the  same  duties  as  are  discharged  by  the  Trin- 
ity Houses  of  London,  Deptford,  and  Kingston-upon-Hull, 
for   the  regulation  of  pilots   and  the  navigation  of  the 
river." 
The  churches   and  religious  establishments  of  Quebec 
*  are  numerous,  and  well  worthy  of  a  visit  by  strangers. 
The  building  of  the  Hotel  Dieu,  is  seated  in  the  lowest 
part  of  the  Upper  Town,  within  the  ramparts,  between 
Hope  Gate  and  Palace  Gate.     This  is  a  substantial  old 
structure,  built  ol'  stone,  with  wings  and  corridors,  hav- 
ing three  stories  in  height,  appropriated  to  the  separate 
wards  for  the   male  and  female  sick,  and  the   necessary 
accomm.oilations  for  the  Nuns  and  their  assistants.     There 
is  a  beautiful  chapel  altiuhed  to  the  ]\vU'\  Dieu,  in  which 
mass  is  celelirated  t;very  nininiiig,  and  vespers  siiid  every 
evening,  besides  the  regular  service  on  Hundnys  and  fes- 

Uvwls 

Ihe  bullillnq  tuuMlpled  by    the  Ursuline  Nuua,  stands 
nearly  in  Iht?  miilille  ul  llie  Uiiper  Town  of  Qvitbec,  not 


i 


I? '56 


TOUR  TIIROUOII    CANADA. 


far  from  the  Knglish  nnd  French  Cnthiidrals,  the  court- 
house, and  the  Place  D'Armes,  und  with  its  surroundinK 
gardens,  covers  a  space  of  seven  acres  of  ground.  With- 
in the  walls  of  this  Convent,  was  deposited  the  body  of 
the  French  general  Montcalm,  his  corpse  >  ng  laid  in  a 
hollow  pit,  caused  by  the  bursting  of  a  sh  -A:  there,  dur- 
ing the  seigc  of  Quebec.  The  number  of  ihe  Ursuline 
Nuns  at  present  in  the  Convent  is  about  forty,  besides  the 
Lady  Superior,  and  some  few  Noviciates. 

The  Catholic  Seminary,  and  Cathedral,  both  founded 
about  1660,  are  situated  near  Market  Square,  in  the 
heart  of  the  town.  The  exterior  of  the  latter  is  plain, 
but  its  tower  is  lofty  and  well  proportioned  to  the  edifice. 
There  are  four  other  Catholic  churches  besides  the  Cn- 
thedral. 

Besides  the  English  Cathedral,  there  are  also  in  Que- 
bec, four  Chapels  of  the  church  of  England  ;  two  Scotch 
':^hurches,  and  two  Wesleyan  chapels. 


1 1  '. 


I  u 


Census  of  the  City  and  County  of  Quebec. 

Copied  from  the  Quebec  Gazette,  May,  1844.         * 

Population  of  the  city  of  Quebec, 32,876 

Residue  of  the  county, 12,800 

Total  city  and  county. 45,676 

Of  these  th^re  are, 

Natives  of  EiWiiand, 1,598 

"         Ireland, 7,267 

"         Scotland, 981 

"      _    Canadians  of  French  origin, 27,698 

"         Canadians  of  British  origin, 7,734 

«*  Continent  of  Europe  or  othetr  wise,. ...  276 

«*         United  States, 122 

Total, 45,676 


Irals,  the  court- 
1  its  .surroundinK 
grounrl.  With- 
lited  the  body  ol 
e  >  ng  laid  in  a 
sh  ;i:  there,  dur* 
of  ihe  Ursulitip 
brty,  besides  the 

il,  both  founded 
Square,  in  the 
;  latter  is  plain, 
?d  to  the  edifii;e. 
besides  the  Cn> 

ire  also  in  Que- 
nd  ;  two  Scotch 


OF   QUEBFX, 

lay,  1844.         * 

32,876 

12,800 

45,67<) 

1,598 

7,267 

981 

27,698 

7,734 

k'lse,....  276 
122 

45,676 


i 


TOUR    TlIROUfill  CANADA. 

The  religious  connexions  arc  as'foUows  : 

Belonging  to  the  Church  of  England, 

"  "'  Scotland, 

•'  "  Rome, 

British  Wesleyan  Methodists, 

Canadian    "  *'  , 

Other  Methodists, 

Presbyterians  not  in  connection 

Scotland, 

Consireis'ationalists  and  Inde; 
Baptists  and  Anabaptists,. . . . 

Lutherans, ■  ■ 

Quakers, 

Jews, 


the  church  of 


•  •   ■  •  •  •  • 


257 


6,494 

2,569 

36,371 

851 

24 

2 

123 

189 

29 

3 

8 

13 


Total, 45,676 


The  following  is  an  English  account  of  the  attack  on 
Quebec,  by  Monic,  mery  anci  Arnold,  in  1775,  and  1776. 

**  At  the  period  of  the  American  Revolution,  it  is  well 
known,  that  Canada  did  not  join  ihe  revolted  Colonies, 
but  continued  firm  in  her  allegiance  to  the  crown  ;  and 
lience  it  became  the  land  of  refuge  to  the  many  loyalists 
who  were  driven  from  the  United  States  by  the  success 
of  their  war  of  Independence.  As  it  was  believed, 
however^  by  the  Americans  of  that  day,  that  an  attack 
on  Quebec  would  be  successful,  and  if  so,  would  induce 
all  Canada  to  join  their  cause,  such  an  attack  was  plan- 
ned, and  its  execution  committed  to  two  American  Ge- 
nerals, Montgomery  and  Arnold.  The  British  troops 
usually  rctaiued  in  Canada  for  its  defence,  had  been  sent 
on  to  Boston,  so  that  the  Province  was  almost  destitute 
of  military  force,  there  being  scattered  throughout  all 
Canaila  only  about  800  men.  in  this  state  of  things, 
Gen.  Montgomery  advanced  from  Lake  Champlain  on  St. 
John's,  and  after  a  short  resistance  took  it ;  he  then 
marched  on  against  Montreal,  which  being  perfectly  de- 
fenceless, surrendered  to  the  American  arms  on  the  12th 


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WEBSTER,  N.Y.  145M 

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258 


irODR     THROUGH    CANADA. 


November,  1775.  Atlhe  same  time,  Gen.  Arnold  was 
known  to  Montgomery,  to  be  advancing  towards  Quebec, 
<rom  the  New-England  States,  by  way  of  the  Kennebec  river 
through  Maine,  which  at  this  late  period  of  the  year  was 
a  most  daring  undertaking.  After  passing  thirty<two 
days  in  the  wild  forests  and  swamps,  and  sufTering  al- 
most incredible  hardships  and  privations  in  this  hitherto 
i^ntrodden  wilderness,  Arnold  and  his  followers  reached 
the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  by  the  Chaudiere  river, 
on  the  4th  of  November,  in  the  same  year.  From  thence 
they  descended  to  Point  Levi,  opposite  to  Quebec,  wbere 
they  arrived  on  the  9th,  crossed  over  on  the  night  of  the 
13th,  and  landed  500  men  at  Wolfe's  Cove,  without  be- 
ijng  perceived  either  by  the  sentries  or  from  the  ships  of 
war. 

"  On  the  1st  of  December,  this  force  was  joined  by  a 
much  larger  one  under  Gen.  Montgomery,  from  Montreal, 
By  these  two,  the  city  was  invested,  and  several  bora- 
bardments  of  it  made  with  shot  and  shells,  but  without 
produ^'ig  much  effect  A  night  attack  was  at  length  de- 
termined on  by  Montgomery,  on  the  southern,  and  Ar- 
nold on  the  northern  side  of  the  Lower  Town.  Both  at- 
tacks  were  made  with  great  courage  and  impetuosity, 
but  both  failed.  In  the  former.  Gen.  Montgomery  and 
nearly  all  his  personal  staff  were  killed  j  in  the  latter, 
Gen.  Arnold  was  wounded,  atid  with  most  of  his  follow- 
ers taken  prisoners.  The  loss  of  the  Americans  in  these 
attacks  was  upwards  of  100  killed  and  wounded,  and  of 
the  British,  only  one  naval  officer  killed,  and  seventeen 
men  killed  and  wounded.  The  Americans  did  not,  how. 
ever,  give  up  the  attempt  to  reduce  Quebec  ;  as,  during 
all  the  winter  following,  they  continued  to  receive  rein- 
forcements, and  to  invest  Ihc  town  ;  and  in  the  spring  of 
the  ensuing  year,  May  1776,  they  renewed  their  attack 


(  : 


TOUR    THROUGH    CAKADA. 


$59 


on  the  Citadel.  Gen.  Carleton,  the  £ngfish  commander 
of  the  garrison,  having  received  an  important  accession 
to  his  force,  by  the  arrival  of  a  small  squadron  under 
the  command  of  Sir  Charles  Douglas,  bringing  to  his  aid, 
provisions,  ammunition  and  men,  was  enabled  to  baffle 
every  attempt  made  on  the  city,  and  ultimately  to  make 
a  sally  on  the  enemy,  when  they  retreated,  and  abandoned 
their  post. 

"This  was  the  last  attack  made  on  Quebec  by  any 
foreign  foe,  and  as  since  that  period  the  Citadel  has  been 
gradually  strengthened  and  improved,  under  every  suc- 
cessive Governor  of  the  Province,  it  Is  now  in  a  condi- 
tion  to  resist  ten  times  the  force  ever  yet  brought  against 
it,  and  could  not,  so  long  as  it  contained  supplies  of  pro> 
visions,  and  an  adequate  number  of  brave  and  faithful 
men,  be  conquered  by  any  force  likely  to  be  brought 
against  it  from  this  continent." 


f 


EXCURSIONS  IN  THE  VICINITY  OF   QUEBEC. 

The  places  of  resort  well  worthy  of  a  visit  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  Quebec,  are  numerous  and  exceedingly  interest- 
ing. The  roads  are  mostly  good,  and  the  obliging  French 
drivers  are  reasonable  in  their  charges. 

The  objects  mos.,  attractive  to  Tourists,  are  the  Falh 
(ff  Montmorenci.  9  miles  northeast;  the  Falls  of  th* 
Chavdiere,  12  miles  southwest ;  the  Lake  St.  Charles, 
16  miles  northwest,  and  the  Indian  village  of  Lorette, 
on  the  road  to  the  Lake,  about  8  miles  distant.  The 
drive  from  Quebec  to  Cape  Rouge,  8  miles  along  the 
bank  of  the  river,  passing  over  the  Plains  of  Abraham, 
by  the  way  of  the  St.  Lewis  road,  is  also  a  most  delight* 
ful  one. 


(  ' 


960 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


Falls  of  Montmorenci. 

In  going  to  the  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  which  should  be 
visited  by  every  lover  of  picturesque  natural  scenery,  you 
pass  through  the  suburbs  of  Quebec^  mostly  inhabited  by 
French  Canadians,  and  cross  the  river  St.  Charles,  near 
its  raouth,  by  a  wooden  toll  bridge.  Here  are  situated 
on  the  road  side  several  pretty  country  residences,  on  the 
route  to  Beauport,  which  is  a  long  scattered  village  about 
half-way  between  Quebec  and  Montmorenci,  although 
for  most  of  the  distance  there  are  dwellings  so  contiguous 
as  to  appear  like  one  continued  settlement.  At  Beauport 
there  is  a  Roman  Catholic  church,  with  three  spires  ;  and 
a  little  further  north  may  be  seen  a  neat  monument  and 
Qross  near  the  road,  where  are  frequently  found  per- 
sons kneeling  at  their  devotions. 

On  reaching  the  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  many  are  disap- 
pointed at  the  small  volume  of  water,  after  seeing  the 
mighty  cataract  of  Niagara,  yet  these  falls  possess  a 
grandeur  in  miniature,  which  it  is  difficult  to  find  excel- 
led. The  river  Montmorenci  «omes  from  the  northwest 
in  a  stream  :ibout  sixty  yards  wide,  and  it  is  not  until  it 
almost  reacb*(s  the  very  edge  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  which 
it  enters  a'  i  angles  with  its  course,  that  the  water 
descends  ov^^  a  cliif,  the  stream  literally  falling  into  the 
St.  Lawrence  below.  The  perpendicular  height  of  the 
fan  is  about  250  feet. 

There  are  extensive  saw-mills  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
river  below  the  falls  which  are  propelled  by  water  power 
taken  from  the  stream  above,  and  conveyed  for  about 
half  a  mile  in  a  race  way.  These  mills  have  upwards 
of  a  hundred  saws  in  motion  at  a  time,  and  are  said  to  be 
capable  of  completing  an  entire  cargo  of  planks  in  a  sin- 
gle day !  In  winter  the  spray  arising  from  the  falls  is 
congealed,  and  often  presents  a  conical  mass  of  ice  100 


TOUR    TIIROUGII    CANADA. 


261 


1  of  the 

jower 

I  about 

(wards 

to  be 

I  a  sin- 

ills  is 

selOO 


feet  an  1  upwanls  in  hei&ht.  It  was  on  the  hii^h  grounds 
north  of  the  falls,  that  Gen.  Wolfe  met  his  first  repulse, 
when  he  attacked  the  Frenfh,  a  sl-crt  time  before  his 
triumph  on  the  plains  of  Abraham.  He  was  here  driven 
back,  anJ  compelled  to  re-embark,  with  the  loss  of  700 
engaged  in  the  ossault. 

On  returning  to  Quebec  there  is  afforded  a  splendid 
view  of  the  city  and  Citadel — the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
the  opposite  shore  above  and  below  Point  Levi — the 
beautiful  Island  of  Orleans,  opposite  the  falls,  and  the 
rich  valley  of  the  St.  Charles. 

Chaudiere  Falls. 
The  excursion  to  the  Falls  of  the  Chaudiere,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence  river,  about  12  miles 
distant  from  the  city  in  a  southerly  direction,  is  one  of 
much  interest.  The  perpenJicubr  fall  of  the  cascade  is 
a  little  more  than  a  hundred  feet,  but  the  mass  of  waters 
is  so  romantically  broken  by  projecting  rocks,  as  to  pro- 
duce a  turhulencc  and  fury  in  its  descent  which  is  wild 
and  picturesque  in  the  highest  degree. 

Excursion  to  Cape  Rouge. 
On  this  excursion  you  leave  the  city  by  the  St.  Lewis 
Gate,  and  cross  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  to  the  right  of 
the  spot  where  Wolfe  fell.  A  mile  from  the  gate  is  the 
Race  Conrse,  which  is  thronged  during  the  Spring  and  Fall 
races  ;  and  n  mile  further  a  road  branching  to  the  left, 
leads  to  Wolfe^s  Cove,  celebrated  as  the  place  where  he 
landed  with  his  army  previous  to  the  capture  of  Quebec, 
but  now  occupied  by  an  extensive  ship- yard  and  lumber- 
yard. The  road  beyond  runs  for  some  distance  through 
a  fine  grove,  with  avenues  leading  to  vorious  pleasant 
country  residences  over-looking  the  river,  of  which  you 
eatch  OS  you  pass  along  occasional  glimpses,  together 


I    ( 


262 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


with  the  opposite  shore  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Chau* 
diere  Falls. 

Returning  by  the  St,  Foi  road  and  facing  toward  the 
city,  the  prospect  is  far  wider  and  more  magnificent. 
Below  and  to  the  left  stretches  the  fine  cultivated  valley 
of  the  St.  Charles,  bounded  oa  the  northwest  by  a  pic- 
turesque range  of  mountains,  the  settlements  reaching  to 
their  very  base,  with  villages  and  church  spires  scattered 
over  the  intervening  region  ;  in  another  direction  appear 
the  Falls  of  the  Montmorenci  and  the  Isle  of  Orleans, 
nnd  in  front  spreads  the  harbor  of  Quebec,  with  the  bold 
cliffs  of  Cape  Diamond  and  Point  Levi,  rising  perpendi- 
cularly on  each  side,  the  former  being  crowned  with  im- 
pregnable bulwarks. 


THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  AND  SAGUENAY  RIVERS. 

As  a  trip  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  river  Sague- 
nay,  has  within  the  last  year  or  two,  become  a  fashiona- 
ble and  exceedingly  interesting  steamboat  excursion  from 
Quebec,  we  subjoin  an  account  of  such  a  trip,  made  on 
board  the  steamer  North  America,  August,  1843. 

As  the  steamboat  left  the  wharf,  she  took  a  graceful 
turn  up  stream,  passing  the  Illustrious,  a  74  gun  ship, 
and  the  government  steamer  Unicorn,  and  then  descend- 
ing run  close  under  Point  Levi,  affording  a  fine  view  of 
the  city  and  Citadel  of  Quebec.  The  beautiiul  line  of 
settlements  below  the  city  on  the  same  side  of  the  river, 
next  attract  attention,  the  view  in  the  distance  being 
bounded  by  hills,  apparently  elevated  1,500  to  2,000  feet 
above  the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  romantic  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  7  miles  be- 
low Quebec,  are  seen  to  great  advantage  from  the  St- 
Lawrence,  plunging  over  an  almost  perpendicular  preci- 


B  Chau- 

ard  the 
nificent. 
1  valley 
jy  a  pic- 
ichinR  to 
scattered 
n  appear 

Orleans, 
I  the  bold 
perpend  i- 

with  im- 


RIVERS. 

^er  Sague- 
i  fashiona- 
irsion  from 
made  on 

43. 

a  graceful 
gun  ship, 
Xi  descend- 
ne  view  of 
iiul  line  of 
the  river, 
nee  being 
2,000  feet 

miles  be- 

|om  the  St- 

:ular  preci- 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


263 


I 


of  240  feet  directly  into  this  great  river.  Immediately 
below,  on  the  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  was  fought  a 
severe  battle  between  the  English  and  French  armies, 
u  short  time  previous  to  the  capture  of  Quebec  by  Gen. 
Wolfe,  in  1759,  in  which  the  British  were  repulsed  with 
considerable  loss. 

The  Island  of  Orleans,  is  next  passed  on  the  left, 
descending  the  river  through  the  principal  ship  channel. 
This  is  a  fertile  tract,  21  miles  long  by  6  or  7  wide,  and 
in  part  covered  with  a  beautiful  growth  of  forest  It 
rises  from  50  to  100  feet  above  the  water,  and  the  stream 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  being  here  divided,  the  aspect  of  the 
shores  at  once  reminds  you  of  the  scenery  of  the  Hudson 
river  above  the  Higlilands, 

St.  Patrick's  Hole,  11  miles  below  Quebec,  on  the 
Orleans  shore,  affords  a  fine  anchorage  for  vesse's  of  the 
largest  size.  It  was  here,  some  20  years  ago.  that  the 
immense  timber  ship  was  built,  supposed  to  be  the  largest 
vessel,  by  far,  that  ever  crossed  the  Atlantic. 

The  Parish  of  St.  Laurent,  14  miles  below  Quebec, 
is  handsomely  situated  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  island, 
which  is  settled  exclusively  by  French  Canadians,  mostly 
♦'ngaged  in  cultivating  the  soil.  The  dwellings  have  a 
remarkably  neat  look,  being  one  story  high  with  both 
roof  and  sides  painted  white. 

The  southeast  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  for  many  miles 
below  Point  Levi,  presents  a  succession  of  villages  and 
hamlets,  consisting  each  of  a  cluster  of  houses  with  a 
church  standing  in  the  midst,  and  with  its  aspect  of  guar- 
dianship and  guidance  to  the  families  dwelling  around, 
imparting  to  the  landscape  a  moral  expression,  which 
rrreatly  enhances  its  picturesque  beauty. 

The  vessels  usually  seen  on  this  part  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, are  of  the  larger  cmss  of  merchant  ships.    The 


264 


TOUll    THROUGH    C.WADA. 


t    ■    1. 


I 


li 


arrivals  nt  the  port  of  Quebec  overnfff*  some  1,200  to 
1,400  annually,  mostly  from  Great  Britain,  nnlbesiJes 
other  colonial  produce,  they  corry  back  immense  quantl* 
ties  of  timber  on  1  lumber.  > 

Madam  Island,  26  miles  from  Quebec,  is  one  of  se- 
veral small  islands  lying  below  Orleans.  The  river  here 
widens  to  10  miles,  which  gradually  increases  all  the 
way  to  its  mouth  ;  and  for  most  of  the  distance  there  are 
two  ship  channels,  called  the  north  ond  south  channels, 
the  latter  being  the  best  and  most  navigated. 

Cape  TounMnNT,  30  miles  below  Quebec,  is  a  bold 
promontory  on  the  northwest  side  of  the  river  rising  to 
the  height  of  about  2,000  feet,  and  seen  at  a  great  dis> 
tance. 

Grossk  Island,  opposite  Cnpe  Tourment,  is  thft 
Quarantine  Station  for  vessels  ascen ling  the  river,  and 
it  has  n  hospital,  a  Roman  Catholic  Chapel,  and  other 
buildings  usually  connected  with  such   on  establishment. 

St.  Titomas,  32  miles  from  Quebec,  en  the  southeast 
shore,  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  stream  called  South 
river.  The  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  lined  with  a 
succession  of  dwellings  for  many  miles  below,  with  high 
grounds  rising  in  the  distance,  beyond  which  may 
occasionally  be  seen  the  hills  formerly  claimed  by  the 
Americans,  as  the  boundary  between  the  state  of  Maine 
and  Conado. 

Crane  Island,  38  miles  below  Quebec,  is  fertile  and 
settled.  Its  north  end  is  adorned  with  the  delightful  resi- 
dence of  the  Seignucr. 

Goose  Island,  45  miles  from  Quebec,  is  owned  by  the 
Kuns,  and  is  cultivated  as  a  farm,  by  tenants. 

The  Pillars,  55  miles  below  Quebec,  is  the  name 
given  t9  several  small  rocky  islets,  on  one  of  which 
stands  alight-house.    Here  the  scenery    is  peculiarly 


'-+f^ 


lOlU    TIIUOUGII    CANADA. 

I 


265 


1,200  to 
1  besides 
e  quanti* 

ne  of  se* 
iver  here 
sail  ihe 
there  are 
channeltt 

is  a  bold 

risinp  to 

great  dis- 

it,    is  thi^ 
river,  and 
nnJ  other 
|)lishment. 
southeast 
Ilea  South 
ei  with  a 
with  high 
ich  may 
led  by  the 
of  Maine 

fertile  nnd 
itful  resi- 

ned  by  the 

the  name 
of  which 
peculiarly 


irranl  anl  interesting.  The  vast  estuary  of  the  river  be- 
low  looks  in  JeeJ  like  an  opening  to  the  ocean.  The  shores 
for  some  10  miles  onward  arc  studded  with  shining 
residences,  while  the  hills  in  the  distance,  on  both  sides, 
resemble  very  much  the  scenery  bordering  the  widest  part 
of  Lake  Chnmplain. 

Sixty  mi U?s  l)elovv  Quebec,  is  the  remarkable  channel 
called  the  Traverse.  A  floating  light  guides  the  mariner 
by  night  through  this  narrow  and  dangerous  pnssage. 

Isi.B  Aux  CouPRES,  (Islc  of  Filbcrts,)  is  a  large  body 
of  land  lying:  toward  the  north  shore,  opposite  the  Bay 
of  St.  Paul's,  anl  about  65  miles  from  Quebec.  It  is 
said  that  when  Jacques  Cartier,  anchored  here,  on  his 
first  voyage  of  discovery  up  the  St.  Lawrence,  he  gave 
this  islauJ  the  name  it  yet  bears,  from  the  great  quantity 
of  filberts,  or  hazel  nuts,  which  he  found  there. 

St.  Anne  stanls  on  the  southeast  shore,  on  a  bay  of 
the  same  name.  Here  is  a  Catholic  College  nnd  a  settle* 
ment  of  ccnsiileraMc  size,  about  70  miles  Irom  Quebec 

As  you  approach  Gcose  Cape,  75  miles  below  Quebec, 
the  banks  of  the  river  seem  to  decline  in  the  distance  ; 
the  river  now  being  ec  of  islands,  presents  a  large  ex- 
panse of  water,  here  t  in::  nhcut  18  miles  wide.  , , 

Mal  Bay,  80  miles,  below  Quebec,  lies  en  the  north* 
west  side  cf  tie  £t.  Lawrence,  at  the  mouth  of  a  river 
of  the  same  name.  This  is  a  fine  section  cf  country, 
producing  wheal  and  other  kinds  of  grain  in  abundance 
Beyond  this  place  is  seen  a  beautiful  ranse  of  hills,  ter- 
minating at  Cape  F'agle  and  Cape  Salmon  on  the  east 

Kamouraska,  situated  90  miles  below  Quebec,  en  the 
southeast  side  cf  the  river,  contains  about  1,500  inhabi- 
tants, and  is  surrotnded  by  a  fruitful  district.  Vessels 
can  land  here  only  at  high  water;  at  low  water,  passen> 
gers  are  taken  ashore  \u  suiall  boats.    In  the  rear  of  this 


266 


TOUU    TIIHOUnil    CAKATiA. 


>     I 


villai^e  are  seen  nhriipt  and  sterile  hills  with  little  or  no 
verdure.  In  front  are  two  or  three  mnall  islands,  chiefly 
resorted  to  for  fiHhin^  and  bathint;,  t'lis  heins;  a  favorite 
resort  during  the  »unimer  months,  (br  the  I'iti/ens  of  Mon- 
treal and  Quebec,  and  is  no  doubt  destined  to  become  a 
fashionable  watering  place,  where  sea  bathing  can  be  en- 
joyed by  invalids  and  seekers  of  pleasure. 

About  lO.")  miles  below  Quebec  are  the  Pilgrim  Islnndu, 
a  group  of  rocky  islets  which  are  passed  to  the  right. 
On  the  left,  a  few  miles  below,  is  Hare  Island,  situated 
near  the  middle  of  the  river. 

The  settlement  at  the  Rivkr  Du  Loup,  120  miles  be- 
low Quebec,  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
contains  about  l,.'iOO  inhabitants.  Here  commences  the 
ureat  road  from  the  St.  Lawrence  river  to  the  St.  John's, 
by  the  way  of  the  Madawaska  river  and  settlement. 

Red  Island  lies  otf  the  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay, 
this  being  the  first  island  of  the  small  group  met  on  as- 
cending the  St.  Lawrence.  It  is  destitute  of  a  light  and 
has  caused  many  shipwrecks  during  the  prevalence  of 
fogs  and  storms,  so  frequent  on  the  lower  part  of  the  river 
and  (iulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  Green  Island  lies  nearly 
opposite  Red  Island,  on  the  south  east. 

As  you  approach  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  the  wa- 
ters take  a  very  black  hue,  perceivable  for  many  miles 
below,  and  extending  far  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  Just 
within  the  mouth  of  the  river,  near  Tadousac,  there  is  a 
round  mountain  peak,  called  Ttte  du  Boule,  about  800 
feet  high. 

Tadousac,  140  miles  below  Quebec,  Is  situated  on 
the  northwest  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Saguenay  river.  This  is  a  post  belonging  to  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  is  the  residence  of  one  of  its 
partners  and  an  agent.    They  alone  are  allowed  to  trade 


TOUR    TIIUOUGH    CANADA. 


267 


lie  or  no 
J,  chietly 
I  favoriU' 
» of  Moil- 
>ecome  » 
an  be  en- 

M  Islands, 
the  right. 
,  situated 

,<■'    ' 

I  miles  he* 
Lawrence, 
nences  the 
St.  John'?;, 
iment. 
Saguenay, 
met  on  ns- 
[i  light  and 
valence   of 
af  the  river 
its  nearly 

the  wa- 

nany  miles 

nee.     Just 

there  is  a 

about  800 

situated  on 
the  mouth 
ging  to  the 
if  one  of  its 
red  to  trade 


with  the  Indians  in  the  interior,  who  oocaslonally  visit 
this  place,  but  more  frequently  Chicoutimi,  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  Saguenay,  and  the  post  at  the  Lake 
of  St.  John,  where  some  of  the  company's  agents  also 
reside.  '  At  Tadousnc  is  u  Roman  Catholic  Chapel,  u 
store  and  ware-houie,  and  some  8  or  10 dwellings.  Here 
is  erected  a  flag  stati',  surrounded  by  several  pieces  of 
cannon,  on  an  eminence  elevated  about  50  feet  and  over 
looking  the  inner  harbor,  where  is  a  sufficient  depth  of 
water  to  Hoat  the  largest  vessels.  This  place  was  early 
settled  by  the  French,  who  are  said  to  have  here  erecte  1 
the  first  dwelling  built  of  stone  and  mortar  in  Canada, 
and  the  remains  of  it  arc  still  to  be  seen.  The  view  is 
exceedingly  picturesque  from  this  point.  The  southern 
shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  may  be  traced  even  with  the 
naked  eye  for  many  a  league — the  undulating  lines  of 
snow  white  cottages  stretching  far  away,  both  east  and 
west — while  the  scene  is  rendered  gay  and  animated  by 
the  frequent  passage  of  the  merchant  vessel  ploughing  its 
way  towards  the  port  of  Quebec,  or  hurrying  upon  the 
descending  tide  to  the  Gulf — while  from  the  summit  of 
the  hill  upon  which  Tadousac  stands,  the  sublime  and 
impressive  scenery  of  the  Saguenay  rises  into  view. 

We  extract  from  the  Report  of  the  Commissioners  for 
exploring  the  Saguenay,  published  in  1829  :  the  following: 

**  Upon  landmg  at  Tadousac,  we  proceeded  immediate- 
ly to  examine  a  few  of  the  geognostical  characters  of  the 
country.  The  only  place  of  residence  here  is  erected  on 
a  bank  of  sandy  alluvium,  elevated  about  fifty  feet  above 
the  river,  and  forming  a  flat  terrace  at  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  which  suddenly  emerges  at  a  short  distance 
behind.  The  rocks  of  which  these  mountains  are  com- 
posed is  granite,  either  of  a  red  or  grey  color,  depending 
upon  that  of  the  feldspar.    On  the  shore  were  seen  small 


^»c- 


I  f 


£69 


TOVll   TllKUUUll    CANAOA. 


1 


III 


(lepu^ils  ofinngBelic  iron.     Here  hn»es  wcrr  iiicniitired, 
niifl  llie  requisiteh  anulc  l.-iken,  i'ur  OctiTiniriiiiu  tlie  iieigtit 
of  the  most  eleviiie  I  point  on  eillier  kiJc  of  llic  Sa^uonay 
at  it4  niouti),    on!  this   was  fouitl   to  bo  !)12   feet  on  the 
westerly  si.le,  an  i  5iS  on  the  opponile." 

L'anck  a  L'i:au,  or  Watkr  llAiinon,  Mitiiale:!  on  the 
SnKuenay,  ahoutuhnlfa  iitilCnbovc  'ralouKnc,  is  the 
name  ol'u  settlement  wlierei«  an  extenKivc  lumljei-  estqb. 
li&hinent. 

The  St.  Lawrknck  Uivkh,  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Sagiienay,  a»iiumc.<(  an  imposing  appeornnce,  ^rn(Jually 
widening  until  its  hreadlh  exceeds  one  hundred  milen. 
The  following  description  of  this  mighlj  river,  is  ex- 
tracted front  Mr.  Uiickinghum's  late  work  on  Cunada,  pub- 
lished in  lS-13. 

''  From  this  point,  where  the  Sogucnay  joins  the  St. 
Lawrence,  the  distance  from  sliurc  to  shore,  across  the 
latter  stream,  exceeds  20  mites,  and  the  wi  ith  f;ucs  on 
increasinu:  till  it  expands  to  forty  miles  from  Cape  Chot 
to  Cape  dc8  Monts  Pelles.  From  thence  it  goes  on  8till 
further,  expanJing  till  it  reaches  the  breadth  of  about  120 
miles,  from  shore  to  shore,  in  a  line  drawn  from  the  ex- 
treme point  of  Gaspe,  due  north  across  the  western  edge 
of  the  Islani  of  Anticosti,  and  so  on  to  the  coast  of  La- 
brador. Through  this  magnificent  mouth  of  the  river, 
we  pass  into  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  ;  having  thus 
traced  the  noble  stream,  from  the  Island  of  Mackinow,  in 
the  straits  of  Michillimackinac,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Hu> 
ron,  down  to  the  Island  of  Anticosti;  a  distance  of  at 
least  2,000  miles,  through  a  chain  of  the  most  splendid 
lakes  in  the  world,  and  with  almost  every  variety  of 
scenery  along  its  majestic  course." 

For  a  further  description  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 
and  voyage  to  Halifax,  see  "  Buckingham^ s  Ciinada, 
Hova-Scoiiay  &c." 


Domired, 
le  Iteigttt 
a^uonay 
I  uu  Ihe 

>!i  on  the 
I',  is  the 
er  cslab. 

h  of  llie 
(rndually 
eJ  milcp. 
r,  is  ex- 
ida,  pub- 
is the  St. 
cross  the 
1  goes  on 
npe  Chat 
s  on  Ktill 
)out  120 
the  ex- 
crn  edge 
t  of  La- 
»e  river, 
in;;  thus 
inaw,  in 
ake  Hu- 
ice  of  at 
splendid 
iriety  of 


TOVU    TIIROUCni    CANADA. 


269 


iwrence 


Canada, 


TIIK  8A(iUi:N.\Y. 

"  Tliisriv.rr  Iiqh  Ittt  mouth,  nccording  toronimoncoinpa* 
totiun,  140  miles  livlow  Quebec,  on  the  north  hliore  of  the 
Hi.  Lawrence,  in  latitude  4S  dcK-  <>  '"in.  IM  hvc,  Icng.  70 
deg.  4()iiun.  uefct  froinGreenwich.  It  discharges  a  much 
grimer  body  of  water  than  ony  other  ri>er  that  falls  into 
the  St.  Liuvrence.  Indeed  it  is  the  larse^t  river  in  North 
Am*  rica,  the  tt.  Lawrence  excepted,  eu8t  of  the  Alle- 
ghunies. 

"  It  tiikes  the  nnnic  of  b'nguenay  only  below  Lake  St. 
John,  which  lies  about  120  miles  N.  by  W.  of  Quebec. 
From  TnilousaC;  a  distance  o(  about  f40  miles  to  the 
lake,  the  course  of  the  river  is  nearly  castani  west,  Ta« 
duusac  being,  as  before  stated,  in  Int.  48  detr.  6  min.  bS 
sec,  oni  the  south  side  of  Lake  Hi.  John  in  48  deg.  23 
mtn.  12  fee,  giving  only  10  miles  to  the  north  of  Ta- 
dousac." 

This  lake,  which  is  nearly  circular^  is  about  40  miles 
across,  and  it  is  the  centre  of  an  extensive  region  tlie  wa- 
ters of  wliich  (low  into  it  from  the  ncrlh,  the  west,  and 
the  south,  in  twelve  principal  rivers,  and  are  discharged 
to  the  east  by  the  {-agucnny. 

The  streams  which  fiow  into  this  lake  from  the  south, 
the  westnnl  the  norlhvvcfet,  have  their  sources  in  a  moun- 
tainous tract  which  ranges  nearly  cast  and  west  for  a 
long  distance,  and  then,  far  in  the  west,  bends  northward- 
ly, separating  these  wulei-s  from  those  which  seek  li.e 
St.  Lawrence  above  Quebec  and  the  Ottawa,  and  regarJ- 
ing  ihcm  in  their  still  wider  relations,  th<7  are  part  of 
the  extensive  range  of  highlands  w  hich  divide  the  basin 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  from  that  of  Hudson's  Bay  and  its 
tributaries. 

*'  The  country,  the  waters  of  which  are  discharged  into 
the  St.  Lawrence,  by  the  Saguenay,  is  mere  extensive 
than  u II  the  rest  of  Lower  Canada;  but  it  has  till   lately 


270 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA. 


contained,  probably,  net  more  Ih'n  a  hundred  Indian  fa- 
milies, who  live  by  hunting  and  fishing,  and  exchange  their 
surplus  with  lessees  of  the  King's  Post,  for  a  few  arliclj's 
of  imported  produce. 

"  The  passage  of  the  waters  of  the  Saguenay,  from  be- 
low the  Ha-Ha  Bay  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  a  distance  of 
fifty  miles,  is  one  of  the  wonders  of  nature.  They  pene- 
trate through  a  mountainous  tract,  composed  of  sienile 
granite,  forming  an  immense  canal  in  many  places,  with 
banks  of  perpendicular  rocks  rising  from  a  thousandth 
fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river,  whii.h 
is  from  a  hundred  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  deep 
nearly  the  whole  way,  and  from  a  mile  to  three  miles 
broad.  The  power  and  pride  of  man  is  as  much  hum- 
bled in  some  parts  of  this  tremendous  chasm,  as  in  the 
immediate  presence  of  Niagara  Falls.  In  many  places 
the  largest  vessel  may  run  close  to  the  perpendicular 
rocks,  with  100  fathoms  water.  There  are,  however,  se- 
veral coves  W'ith  good  anchorage.  In  Ha-Ha  Bay  the 
Navy  of  England  might  ride,  in  from  five  to  eighty  fa- 
thoms. At  twelve  miles  below  Chicoulimi,  which  is  dis- 
tant 68  miles  from  Tadousac,  the  spring  tide  ises  IS 
feet,  and  there  is  from  10  to  50  fathoms  at  low  water. 
The  tide  rises  and  the  river  is  navigable  seven  miles 
above  Chicoutirai,  where  the  rapids  of  the  outlet  of  Lake 
St.  John  commence.  At  this  point  a  range  of  high- 
lands crosses  the  Saguenay,  extending  along  the  head 
waters  of  the  Malbay,  the  Goufl're,  the  Jacques  Cartier, 
St.  Anne,  Batiscan,  and  St.  Maurice,  and  forming  the 
south  and  western  side  of  the  basin  of  Lake  St.  John, 
with  the  Hudson's  Bay  highlands  on  the  north  and  east. 

"  It  is  cnly  within  a  few  years  that  there  have  been  any 
agricultural  settlers  in  the  Saguenay  country.  At  present 
there  are  a  few  hundred  families  of  squatters  from  the 


TOUR    THROrOlI    CANADA. 


271 


north  shore  below  Quebec,  chiefly  induced  to  go  in  by 
employment  in  lumbering,  Sec,  for  Mr,  Price's  numerous 
saw-mills.  At  Ha-Ha  Bay,  there  is  a  church,  and  about 
150  families,  and  openings  are  made  at  various  places  on 
the  river.  The  soil  is  of  disintegrated  clay  and  granite, 
w^ith  limestone  in  some  places.  The  general  level  of  the 
land  above  Ha-Ha  Bdy,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  from 
the  river,  is  not  higher  than  the  island  of  Orleans,  al- 
though more  broken.  The  timber  mixed,  hard  and  soft, 
and  of  a  middling  growth.  The  climate  is  milder,  if  any 
thing,  than  at  Quebec.  With  the  exception  of  the  ridge 
crossing  below  Lake  St.  John,  already  mentioned,  the 
country  to  a  great  extent  round  the  lake,  but  particularly 
on  the  southwest  side,  is  of  the  same  character." 

"  On  entering  the  Saguenay  from  Tadousac,  which  is 
about  one  mile  wide  at  its  mouth,  the  hills  soon  rise  ab- 
ruptly from  the  water's  edge,  from  500  to  1000  feet  above 
the  tide  way,  presenting  an  appearance  somewhat  simi- 
lar to  the  entrance  from  the  north  into  the  "  Highlands" 
of  the  Hudson  river,  with  which  most  travellers  are  fa- 
miliar, divested,  however,  of  all  appearance  of  habita- 
tion for  many  miles,  and  the  Saguenay  averaging  twice 
the  width  of  the  Hudson. 

Tete  du  Boule,  a  round  mountain  peak,  rises  on  the 
north  side  of  the  river,  about  one  mile  from  its  mouth. 
Here  the  rocks  and  hills  are  mostly  bare,  but  the  verdure 
increases  as  you  ascend. 

About  three  miles  from  Tadousac,  the  river  inclines  to 
the  north  for  a  few  miles,  then  resumes  its  western  course 
to  Chicoutimi,  a  distance  of  sixty-eight  miles  from  the 
St.  Lawrence,  and  being  in  many  places  three  miles  in 
width,  with  a  great  depth  of  water,  until  you  arrive  at 
the  bar,  sixty  miles  from  its  mouth. 


" 


MflW 


•272 


TOUR    TIIRCVCII    CANADA. 


The  Two  Profiles,  seen  en  the  ncrlh  shore,  a  few 
miles  up,  anJ  clevaleJ  several  hundred  feet  above  the  wa- 
ter, Lear  a  striking  resemblance  to  Ihe  human  face. 

£t,  Louis  Island  presents  n  rocky  and  rugged  appear, 
ance.  lilies  eighteen  miles  above  Tadousac,  and  may 
be  passed  by  large  vessels  on  either  side.  Here,  it  is 
said,  fine  trout  may  be  taken  in  large  quantities. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  river  Marguerite,  on  the  north 
fthore.  and  at  St.  John's  Bay,  on  the  fouth,  are  lumber 
establishments, — the  latter  situated  twenty-eight  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Sague.iay. 

At  the  distance  of  34  miles  from  Tadousac,  en  the 
BOuth  shore  of  the  river,  are  two  enormous  masses  of 
rock  called  Etkrnity  Point  and  Cape  Tkinity.  They 
rise  from  the  water's  edge  to  the  height  of  some  ]  ,500  feet, 
and  so  abruptly  that  they  can  almost  be  touched  with  the 
hand  from  the  deck  of  the  passing  steamer.  The  aspect 
of  these  mountain-clifTs  is  beyond  expression  grand.  No 
man  can  pass  along  their  base  and  lift  his  eyes  up  their 
vast  height,  without  awe — without  exp?riencing  the  most 
intense  emotions  of  sublimity.  Sheltered  between  them 
is  a  lovely  recess  of  the  shore,  called  Trinity  Co\  e,  its  se- 
questered and  lonely  beauty  enhanced  by  its  sircng  con- 
trast with  the  wild  gran.leur  of  the  re&t  of  the  scene. 

Trinity  Cape  takes  its  name  from  the  three  peaks  of 
its  summit,  bearing  some  resemblance  to  three  human 
hea  Is;  and  the  name  of  Et;.rmtv  Point  is  abundantly 
indicated  by  the  huge  pile  of  ever-during  reck  of  which 
it  is  ompcsed.  The  whole  scene — the  majestic  river,  a 
hundred  fathoms  deep,  rolling  alcng  the  base  and  in  the 
shadows  of  the  vast  and  beetling  clills,  bearing  on  their 
rocky  fronts  the  impress  of  Almighty  power  and  ever- 
lasting duration — the  whole  scene  at  this  place  is  unsur- 
passed for  its  magnificence  and  solemn  Leauty. 


ADA. 

irrlh  shore,  a  few 
lect  abcvcllie  wa- 
ll utnon  face, 
m  J  rugge  I  appear, 
adoujsac,  and  may 
side.     Here,  it  is 
juantities. 
rite,   on  the  north 
routli,  are  lumber 
wenty- eight  miles 

Tadousac,  on  the 
ormous  masses  of 
:  Tkinitv.  They 
of  some  1,500  feet, 
e  touched  with  the 
imer.  The  aspect 
ession  grand.  No 
;  his  eyes  up  their 
i?riencing  the  most 
red  between  them 
rinity  Cove,  itsse- 
by  its  strong  con- 
t  ol'the  scene, 
the  three  peaks  of 
;e  to  three  human 
i.NT  is  abundantly 
ing  reck  of  which 
le  majestic  river,  a 
he  base  and  in  the 
,  bearing  on  their 
power  and  ever- 
lis  place  is  unsur« 
I  beauty. 


rv  ;:jr_  i_*i«*«fw  - 


■  §''' 


i   -^j; 


i4f 


v.*:^«  /  ...V-;.  'CJ^  ' 


^:^^ii- 


!ti"'"  '''iiii'' : .'  ■ 


a 


•..*'-i.*w-»%|''J 


T 


27: 


vXAlr^  • 


I    \ 


mi 

tei 

t 

an 

* 

be 

sa    , 

>  >  ■ ' 

/.. ' 

•mi* 

Rh  re. 

lifKi 

es    t»Ba{!»yv;'ai: 

ttl 

ec 

re 

ri 

1  the  V. 

ati.i  M 

.■it»»«pt!j 

hn'i.l  l(0;a  '1'"' 

of^'i-- 

t/ii .(   < 

V.'hf  ii- 

1 

ill  1  ■";>-- 

i 

qu«¥i'* 

vrl 

tra- 

.          :» 

.  /i"kt 

:W.  t^' ; 

;<,te,    it    Iv'^ 

.   \  (■  ( I'. (I    V\''f 


ol'  the  rivtrf  .iVliivfeUK.uiv^  oo  th»   'a'tb 
■'•vfen'u   Btty,  on  Ihe  ^oiilh,  aro  i".:fi^#'ir 

■    of    r^!     v':;!T«f    P'.-n    '"-Iv,-:    .i?;.    Of)    th* 

:    ',v  mr  ■-■*.■<?««■  ef 

(j'l:  to  iHG  hmfl'  *•  feet, 

ti^Ht ih^-y  t;i>»!i  i(!nit;r  i  vviili  the 

iioir  b«i.e  aul-Uft  his  r,|ir.v  up  ihftif 

.'!•  ^iiorO;  r!t]tt';l  Trjftiiv  Cove,  i!s«e* 
■,eAal)',''..itKj;'  ■  irorsf-:  COB- 

r.  if*  tame  Jri^-^  the  ih?'n  .^mV^.  of 
soTi.fc;   /fri;('nib'?i."i'>   to  »i^v*  *iurnaft 

w  (loie  MMivifo— ll-.p  1^  'vcr,  a 


•torr,.  '1  ' 

', "  the  vva- 

!l  lUC'^^. 


Ct{<^- •••>;? U'  n^■■?^^"   . 
;  with  ihe 

I'JiVr.  of 

,  ...     iver,  li 

..;'  .(vl  iJi  the 
t  ihesr 

!t  !  CVftM 


o 

H 

> 


O 

I 


^ 


^'- 


Toun  TiinouGii  caxada. 


273 


Continuing  up  the  Sa^uenay,  Statue  Point  is  next 
passed,  where  formerly  was  to  be  seen  a  rock  in  a  niche, 
high  above  the  water,  which  rescmbleJ  a  huge  hunian 
figure.  The  niche  is  still  visible,  but  the  figure  has  fallen 
into  the  deep  water. 

Tlie  Tableau  is  an  upright  rock, rising  almost  perpen- 
dicularly from  the  water,  to  the  height  of  several  hun« 
drcJ  feet,  siti.ateJ  on  the  south  shore. 

The  scenery  in  this  vicinity,  an  J  for  several  miles  below, 
is  exceedingly  grand  and  picturesque, — high  and  precipi* 
tous  hills,  cluthed  with  a  stunted  growth  of  forest  trees, 
and  all  around  a  wild  solitude,  unbroken  by  a  sign  ot 
habitation  or  life,  except  occasionally  a  huge  porpoise 
showing  his  back  above  the  wave,  and  the  water-fowl 
peculiar  to  thc^e  northern  latitudes. 

Fifty-seven  miles  from  Tadnusac  opens  the  HA-HA,or 
Grkat  Bay,  as  it  is  sometimes  called.  It  is  entered  on 
the  left,  while  the  Saguenny  proper  comes  down  on  the 
right.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  there  is  a  large  settlement, 
with  several  extensive  saw-mi!Is,  owned  by  Wm.  Price, 
Esq.,  an  enterprising  merchant  of  Quebec,  who  is  said  to 
give  employment  to  2,0CO  persons,  living  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Sagucnay  and  St.  Lawrence,  principally  in  the 
lumbering  business. 

l>om  the  entrance  to  HaHa  bay  to  Chicoutimi,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  twelve  miles,  the  banks  ol  the  river  are 
less  rugged  and  are  clothed  with  more  verdure,  and  ope- 
nings may  now  be  seen  on  both  shores,  with  occasionally 
a  habitatifin.  About  six  miles  below  Chicoutimi  there 
is  a  bar,  which  can  be  passed  by  vessels  of  a  large  size 
only  when  the  tide  is  up,  this  being  the  first  impediment 
to  navigation  in  ascending  this  noble  river,  which  for 
grandeur  of  scenery  and  depth  of  water,  may  vie  with  any 
other  stream  on  the  American  continent. 


574 


TOUR    TIIUOVOII    CANADA. 


CmcouTiMi,  68  miles  from  Tadousac,  is  another  post 
occupied  by  the  Hudson  Hay  Company,  which  has  a  re* 
sident  agent  stationed  here.  Two  or  three  dwellings  and 
a  venerable  looking  liomnn  Catholic  chapel  of  small  di* 
ineuisions  constitute  the  f^eitlement.  It  is  one  of  those 
stations  where,  in  former  days,  the  indefatigable  Jesuits 
established  a  home  for  themselves  :  a  church  yet  remains 
to  attest  their  religious  zeal.  This  edifice  is  believed  to 
Jiave  been  one  of  the  first  erected  in  Canada.  The  loca- 
lity selected  is  singularly  picturesque  and  romantic.  On 
one  side  the  Saguenay  pours  down  its  mighty  flood,  the 
shores  on  either  side  covered  to  the  water's  edg<}  with  the 
most  luxuriant  foilage,  while,  on  the  other  side,  a  safe 
and  commodious  bay  receives  the  mountain  torrent  of  the 
Chicoutimi  river. 

The  church,  a  peculiarly  agreeable  object  in  so  remote 
a  spot,  stands  about  100  yards  from  the  margin  of  the 
stream,  in  the  centre  of  a  plat  of  green- sward  ^et  out  with 
shrubbery,  and  forest  trees  crown  the  rising  ground  in 
the  rear.  Here  assemble  at  stated  periods  the  children  of 
the  soil;  some  from  the  region  of  the  far  north — the  laith 
which  their  fathers  were  taught  in  earlier  ages,  leading 
them  to  reverence  a  spot  hallowed  by  traditional  associ- 
ations. 

"  The  region  of  the  Saguenay  cannot  long  remain  si- 
lent and  unoccupied.  It  is  destined  to  become  the  home 
of  an  active  and  enterprising  race.  The  climate  is  well 
adapted  to  the  purposes  of  agriculture  and  the  virgin  soil 
cannot  fail  to  repay  the  labors  of  the  farmer. 

''  The  aspect  of  the  country  around  Chicoutimi  is  di- 
vested of  the  rugged  and  rocky  character  which  distin- 
guishes the  banks  of  the  Saguenay  for  the  first  50  miles, 
and  as  the  traveller  advances  inland  the  appearance  of 
the  country  indicates  a  superior  soil — while  the  climate 


1 


i 


isVii». 


TOUR    THROUGH    CANADA.  275 

in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  St.  John  approaches  very  closely 
to  that  of  the  Montreal  district." 

Taken  altogether,  few  excursions  can  afford  more  in- 
Icrcst  to  the  tourist  and  seeker  of  pleasure,  than  a  visit 
to  this  place  and  its  vicinity.  Besides  having  a  view  of 
tlie  magnificent  scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  there  may  be 
here  seen  a  picturesque  water-fall,  and  if  fond  of  angling 
or  hunting,  the  visiter  may  enjoy  himself  to  his  heart's 
content — surrounded  by  a  vast  wilderness,  as  yet  almost 
unbroken  by  the  haunts  of  man.  m 

This  excursion  occupies  from  three  to  four  days,  after 
leaving  Quebec. 

VALUE  OF  MONEYS. 

The  following  information  will  be  found  valuable  to 
strangers  visiting  Canada,  and  particularly  to  emigrants 
bringing  with  them  sterling  money. 

Valuk  of  Colonial  Monies. 

The  basis  of  the  currency  is  the  imperial  gold  standard, 
differing  from  sterling  money  in  the  different  nominal 
valu    of  the  pound  and  its  constituents. 

The  pound  sterling  is  by  law  fixed  at  Twenty-Four  shil- 
lings and  Four-Pence  currency.  At  this  rate  all  large 
transactions  are  settled,  and  remittances,  with  the  cor- 
rt'ction  of  the  day  lor  exchange,  are  calculated. 

One  pound  currency,  contains  four  dollars. 
One  dollar        **  "        five  shillings. 

One  shilling      "  '*        two  sixpences. 

One  sixpence    '•'  "        six  pennies. 

One  penny         "  "        two  coppers. 

The  value  in  sterling  of  the  pound  currency  is  rather 

over 16s.  5|d. 

The  dollar  currency  rather  over 4s.  l|d. 

"     shilling    "  "         9|d. 

*'     sixpence  "        rathe*  under 5d. 

£ut  in  retail  transactions  an  approximation  is  made  to 


J   I 


27C  VALUK  OF  mom:ys. 

the  value  of  the  coins  current  in  Britain  nml  the  United 
States,  onJ  in  small  pureliascs  tliefnIIo\vinc;nrc  the  rates 
at  which  such  coins  arc  usually  pai  1  away: — 

IIRITISH. 

The  sovereign, XI  4s.  fid. 

The  crown, Os.   Id. 

Hair  crown Hs.  O'd. 

Shillina:,  called  Trente-Sous, la.  3d. 

Sixpence,    "      Quinze-Sous, 7-id. 

AMERICAN. 

Eacle, ^ jC2  lOs. 

Dollar ."is.  Id. 

Half  dollar, 2s.  fi^d. 

Dime,  or  ten  cents fi  I. 

Real,  or  York  shilling, lid. 

A  shilling  sterling  and  a  quarter  of  a  dollar  are  taken 
in  the  stores  as  equal.  The  exchangeable  value  of  the 
dollar,  of  course,  varies  with  the  course  cf  exchange  he- 
tvvecn  the  Provinces  and  the  United  States,  which  isprin. 
cipally  ruled  by  that  between  New-YorV  an  I  London. 
In  general,  its  value  is  about  5s.  Id.  currency,  or  4s.  2d. 
sterling. 

The  shilling  currency  is  subdivided  into  twenty-four 
copper  coins,  called  coppers.  Coins  of  this  metal,  of  Co- 
lonial,  British  and  American  origin,  and  of  very  various 
denominations,  are  common,  and  each  is  pretty  generally 
taken  as  the  equivalent  of  a  copper,  without  much  refer- 
ence to  its  intrinsic  value.  The  English  Penny,  Half- 
penny, and  Farthing,  of  not  less  than  five-sixihs  of  the 
weight  of  currency,  is  a  legal  tender  to  the  amount  of 
12d. 

The  following  coins  are  also  usually  taken  at  the  rates 

specified: 

French  crown, .5s.  fid. 

"        half  crown, 2s.  fid. 

Pistorine, lOd. 

Five  franc  piece, 4s.  8d, 


EASTERN  TOUK. 


ly-four 
of  Co. 
arious 

ncrally 
refer- 
Half, 
of  the 
unt  of 

e  rates 

na. 

fid. 

10(1, 

8d. 


TuAVELLKiis  desiring  to  visit  the  New-England  Stales, 
on  leaving  CanaJa,  arc  conveyed  from  Montreal  to  La 
Prairie  by  steamboat,  and  thence  by  railroad  cars  to  St. 
John's,  where  commodious  and  well  regulated  steamboats 
rigain  take  them  up  for  Burlington,  Vermont.  This  is 
•ne  of  those  beautiful  towns,  which  so  often  attract  the 
notice  of  a  stranger,  in  travelling  through  the  northern 
<ind  eastern  states.  For  a  description  of  Burlington,  see 
page  115. 

A  daily  line  of  conveyance  extends  from  Burlington  to 
lioston,  passing  through  Moutpelier,  (the  capitol  of  Ver- 
mont,) Hanover,  N.  H.,  and  thence  to  Concord,  by  stage, 
and  from  the  latter  place  to  Boston,  by  railroad. 

If  intending  to  visit  the  White  Mountains  of  the 
(Iranite  State,  the  tourist  can  pursue  a  route  which 
diverges  from  Montpelier  to  Danville  and  Littleton ;  and 
thence  across  New  Hampshire,  through  the  notch  of  the 
White  Mountains,  to  Conway.  From  the  latter  place  a 
line  of  stages  extends  eastward  to  Portland,  Maine,  run- 
ning three  times  a  week. 

Table  of  Distances  from  Burlington  to  Concord,  N.  H.. 

by  Stage  Route. 

Montpelier, 38  miles. 

Chelsea, 22  60      " 

Honover, 26  86      *• 

Iiebanon, 5  91      '' 

Springfield, 17  108      " 

Concord, 33  141      " 

From  Concord  to  Boston,  by  railroad  route,  70  miles. 

T 


278 


kAHTKliN     TO'Ii. 


LAKK  rn  A  MI' LA  IN'. 

The  foUowinir  descriptioiMd  Lnkc  Champlain  is  oopieif 
from  Thoni[is()n's  Hi,\lory  of  ['crmonl. 

''  Lakk  rirAMi'i.AiN  V\v<i  l)('tw«'f'iilli«' Stiitis  of  \'«'inuiiit 
anil  N«'\v- V(irl\.  It  vxtciuls  in  a  strniiilit  Hue  ih'rii  ^outh 
to  north,  102  miles  Ironi  Whitfhivll,  to  Wo  -I'tth  U' "^ree  of 
latituJo,  and  thence  about  about  121  milt's  io  hi.  Ji  uns,  in 
(,'iinailu,  aH'onlini*  an  easy  cominnnicnliin  with  that  Pro- 
vince and  New- York.  Tin  len-.  lii  -'f  this  lulve  (roni  south 
to  north,  measured  in  a  straigi.i  line  from  one  <'xtrrniity 
to  the  other,  and  sui)posln,a[  it  to  termiame  northerly  at 
St.  Johns,  is  12(5  mil*  >.  Itswiiltli  varies  from  one-fourth 
of  a  mile  to  13  miles,  and  the  mean  wiiMh  is  about  A\ 
miles.  This  would  give  an  area  of  507  square  miles, 
two-thirds  of  which  lie  within  the  limits  of  A'ermonf. 
Its  depth  is  generally  sulficient  for  the  navitj'atidn  of  the 
largest  vessels.  It  received  its  present  name  from  S.vMirr.L 
CiiAMi  LAIN,  a  French  nobleman,  who  discovered  it  in 
the  spring  of  1609,  and  who  died  at  Quebec  in  1G35,  and 
was  not  drowned  in  its  waters,  as  has  often  been  said. 
One  of  the  names  given  to  this  lake  by  the  aborigines,  is 
said  to  have  been  Caniaderi-G uaruiitc,  signifying  the 
mouth  or  door  of  the  country.  If  so,  it  was  very  appro- 
priate, as  it  forms  the  gateway  between  the  country  on 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  that  on  the  Hudson.  The  name  of 
this  lake  in  the  Abenaqui  tongue  was  Petaica  bvuipi. , 
tiignifying  aiiernu;.e  hind  and  water,  in  al'usion  to  tlie  n  w- 
merous  is'  r.il.^  Oiiu  ,;iojectin-,  points  of  land  along  the 
lake.  Previous  to  the  settlement  of  the  country  by  Ku- 
ropeans,  this  lalce  had  long  been  the  thoroughfare  between 
hostile  and  powerful  Indian  tribes,  and  its  short*  ihf 
scene  of  many  a  mortal  conllict.  And  after  the  settle- 
ment, it  continued  the  same  in  reference  to  the  FrfDch 
and  English  colonies,  and  subsequently  in  refercncre  to  ihf 


ICAMTKUN     TUUR. 


270 


i»  copi»'"l 

Vermont 
•om  f  outh 
tl'm-ce  (it 
.!(  iiiis,  in 
thiit  Pro- 
ron»  south 
extremity 
rtherly  at 
oue-fourlli 
about   I '. 
lire  ihUcs. 
Vermont, 
lion  of  th«' 

im  S.VMITF.L 

icred  it  in 
l(i35,  and 
jeen  ^aid. 
origines, is 
nifj'ing  the 
ery  appro- 
country  on 
le  name  oi 
li-a  boinp'- , 
1  to  tlic  '    I- 
•along  the 
try  by  Eu- 
re  between 
fehoK' *  til* 
the   settU  - 
the  FrfrM'h 
■cacffi  to  the 


Knv;Jisli  in  Cnntuluand  the  Ui.  oil  Stutes.  Inconsequence 
of  this  peeuliar'ty  of  its  locti'  on,  the  nnme  of  Lake 
(hiunpliiin  standi  conriceted  wii  some  of  the  most  in- 
terestini;  \ents  ii  the  annuls  ol  uiir  country  ;  and  the 
trnnisnctioii  associnfod  with  the  names  <  I' Tict 'uleroga 
and  Crown  'oint,*  ami  rUittsburiih,  and  manj  other 
jduces,  united  with  tlic  variety  and  ben  ty  ol  the  scci  "ry, 
the  neatness  and  ncconnnodation  of  tht  steam  oats,  nd 
the  unrivalled  exc  llency  of  their  comiu.nders,  rendei  a 
tour  through  this  lake  one  of  the  most  'uteres  '"'^  uiid 
agreeable  to  the  enlig  itened  traveller." 

*  Crow!*  PoitT  Fdktre^  is  now  in  ruins,  and  is  opposit*"  •  the 
south  part  of  Atlili3t)n,  in  Vermont.  It  whs  built  by  tho  Fr<  h  in 
1731,  on  a  point  of  liiinl  bci\  ^en  West  May  and  tbe  like,  ni*..;  v-«8 
r!ill«!(l  Fort  St.  Fiedciick.  la  176!),  it  was  surrendered  i'  le 
Uritisli  troojis  under  Cieu.  Ai  iierst,  and  was  held  by  tlie  iir  u 
till  Miiy  10,  1775,  when  it  wa>  taken  by  Col.  Seth  Wurncr,  on  ijm 
siimn  day  thit  Ticondoropa  sii -rendered  to  Allen.  It  ngala  >«•'! 
into  the  hands  of  the  British  i  i  1770,  who  kept  posfPssion  oi 
till  after  the  capture  of  Hnrpoyi  f.  in  1777.  It  is  nearly  a  regulwr 
penta^',oa,  the  longest  curtain  be  n?  ninety,  and  the  shortest  aboa: 
seventy-live  yaids  in  lenjitli.  Tli  •  ramparts  are  about  twenty-liv*' 
feet  in  thickness,  and  riveted  with  innsonry  tlirout-hout.  The 
ditch  is  blasted  oiu  oi'  the  solid  r><ck.  There  are  two  dcmi-lunes 
and  some  small  detsuhed  outworks.  An  arched  passage  led  from 
the  interior  ol'  the  works  to  the  lilK'^  and  a  well  about  ninety  feel 
in  depth  was  sunk  in  one  of  the  basri  ions.  The  fort  erected  by  the 
French  in  1731,  was  a  smsiller  work  and  nearer  the  water.  The 
present  fort  was  commenced  by  the  Ilnplish  in  1769,  and  accord. 
\i\^  to  Dr.  Dwifilu,  (Travels,  vol.  ii,  j).  -l^t,)  cost  about  two  iniU 
lions  of  pomids  sterling.  The  whole  peninsula  beinp;  of  solid 
rock,  covered  with  a  thin  layer  of  earth,  the  works  cannot  be  jis- 
sailed  by  re^rnlar  approaches  ;  and  both  in  construction  and  posi- 
tion, the  fortress  is  among  the  strongest  in  North  America.  It 
his  been  Ion?  dismantled,  and  is  now  quite  dilapidated;  but  its 
form  and  dimensions  are  still  easily  traced  tind  measured. 

Fort  Ticonderoga  is  fully  described  at  page  109. 


280 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


List  of  Steamboats 

Built  on  Lake  Champlain. 

Built.          Name. 

Tons 

Commanders. 

Remarks. 

1809  I   Vermont, 

167 

J.  Winans, 

Sunk  Oct.  1815. 

1815  !   Phcenix, 

3.16 

J.  Sherman, 

Burnt  Sept   1819. 

1817  '  riiamplain,  •  • 

128 

George  Rrush, •• 

Burnt  in  1817. 

1818      ('ongress,    

209 

K,  W.  Sherman, - 

Condemned  1835. 

1820      ed  Phoenix,.... 

343 

J.  Sherman. 

Condemned  1837. 

1835     (ivn.  Greene,  •• 

lift 

Dan  Lyon, 

Conv. to  sloop  1833 

18vi7  1    FrHiiklin, 

350 

K.  W.  Sherman,- 

(Condemned  1839. 

1827      Wnshinpton,-- 

134 

James  Snow,  •  •• 

Now  running. 

18-29  i  McDonough,  •• 

13S 

Wm.  Burton, — 

Lost  1841. 

1832      Winooski, 

226 

Dan  Lyon, 

Now  runnins. 

1832  1  Water- Witch,- 

107 

Duff  Green, 

Conv.  to  sch.  1S36. 

1837      Rurllnston,    •• 

405 

R.  VV.  Sherman, - 

Now  running. 

1838  1  VVhiiehall, .... 

460 

Gideon  Lnthrop, 

Now  running. 

1842      Sara  line, 

Wni.  U.  Philips. 

Now  running. 

Note. — It  is  a  fact  worthy  of  being  recorded,  that  during 
thirty-two  years  of  steam  navigation  on  Lake  Charaplain, 
and  the  transportation  of  more  than  a  million  of  passen- 
gers, no  life  has  been  lost  or  person  injured  by  the  explo- 
sion of  steam.  On  the  5th  of  September,  1819,  six  per- 
sons lost  their  lives  by  the  burning  of  the  steamboat 
Phoenix,  while  on  her  passage  a  little  to  the  north  of 
Burlington  ;  and  in  1826,  one  person  was  killed  by  the 
collision  of  the  Second  Phcenix  and  Congress,  near  Port 


Kent. 


MoNTPELiEn,  38  miles  east  of  Burlington,  is  hand- 
somely situated  on  a  plain  of  moderate  extent,  at  the 
junction  of  the  north  and  south  branches  of  Winooski, 
or  Onion  River  ;  and  is  surrounded  by  elevated  hills, 
some  of  Vrfhich  rise  abruptly  from  the  plain.  The  road 
over  the  Green  Mountains,  which  passes  through  this 
place,  encounters  no  high  hills,  and  thus  renders  Montpe- 
lier  a  great  thoroughfare.  This  village  being  the  capital 
of  Vermont,  contains  the  state-house,  which  is  an  elegant 
granite  building  ;  a  court-house  and  jail ;  4  churches,  22 


EASTEKR    TOUR. 


281 


PLAIN. 


LRKS. 

I.  1815. 
!pt    1819. 
1817. 

ncd  1935. 
aed  1837. 
sloop  1633 
ned  163S. 
ming. 
tl. 

nnins. 
)3ch.  1S3G. 
nning. 
nning. 
nnin?;. 

lat  during 
mraplain, 
)f  passen- 
Lhe  explo- 
I,  six  per- 
steamboat 
north  of 
ed  by  the 
near  Port 


is  hand- 
nt,  at  the 
VVinooski, 
ted  hills, 
The  road 
rough  this 
s  Montpe- 
he  capital 
an  elegant 
urches,  22 


I 


stores,  and  several  well  kept  public  houses.     The  popu- 
lation is  about  2,000. 

The  villages  of  Vermont,  are  for  the  most  part  de- 
lightfully situated,  the  whole  state  being  celebrated  for 
its  salubrity,  and  for  the  industry  and  thrift  of  its  peo- 
ple. 

In  addition  to  the  route  from  Burlington  east,  there  is 
another  line  of  travel  extending  from  Whitehall  at  the 
head  of  Lake  Champlain,  to  Rutland,  Chester,  Bellows 
Falls,  Keene,  N.  H.,  and  thence  to  Boston;  a  total  dis- 
tance 172  miles.  A  railroad  is  now  constructing  from 
Boston  to  Fitchburg,  a  distance  of  54  miles,  which  is  no 
doubt  destined  to  be  continued  to  Whitehall.  When 
finished  this  will  furnish  a  speedy  conveyance  from  Bos- 
ton to  Montreal,  via  Lake  Champlain,  during  the  season 
of  navigation. 

Since  the  completion  of  the  line  of  railroads  from  Al- 
bany to  Boston,  a  distance  of  200  miles,  this  latter  route 
has  become  the  great  thoroughfare  for  travellers  visiting 
the  eastern  states,  the  line  being  continued  from  Boston 
to  Portland,  Maine;  a  farther  distance  eastward  of  lOf) 
miles,  and  from  Boston  through  Lowell,  to  Concord,  Is. 
H.,  76  miles  north. 

At  Greenbusii,  opposite  the  city  of  Albany,  com- 
mencco  the  Albany  and  West  Stockbridge  Railroad, 
which  extends  to  the  Massachusetts  state  line,  a  distance 
of  38  miles.  This  road  passes  through  the  towns  ol" 
Schodack,  Kinderhook,  Chatham,  and  Caanan,  where 
there  are  depots. 

From  Chatham-Four- Corners  to  the  staic  line,  and 
parallel  to  the  last  named  road,  runs  the  Hudson  and 
Berkshire  Railroad ,-  but  west  of  Chatham  the  latter 
road  diverges,  in  a  southwest  direction,  to  the  city  of 
Hudson,  distant  from  West  Stockbridge  34  miles. 


r 


282 


EASTKIIX    TOUR. 


f 

, 

:" 

; 

1 

i 

Botlj  t!ie  iihove  roils  run  within  a  few  miles  of  New 
L«'l);iii(tn  Springs,  ami  tlu'  Shaker  Settlement  in  the  same 
tt»\vii.  During  the  summer  months  a  stage  runs  from  tlie 
city  of  Alhany,  and  the  railroaJ  to 

Nkw  Lkhanon  Spkinos  Villagk,  delightfully  situa- 
ted near  the  Massachusetts  state  line,  and  25  miles  east 
of  Albany.  This  place  has  long  been  a  well  known  and 
much  frequented  resort  during  the  summer  months.  Thr 
spring  is  remarkable  for  its  size  and  beanty,  being  ten 
feet  in  diameter,  and  discharging  a  volume  of  water  sulfi- 
cient  to  propel  several  mills  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  in  c<.m- 
siderahle  repute  for  its  medicinal  qualities,  particularly 
in  rheumatic  and  scrofulous  complaints,  and  in  cutaneous 
eruptions.  Here  are  5  hotels  and  boarding  houses,  J 
Baptist  church,  4  stores,  2  woollen  factories,  and  soni« 
20  or  25  dwellings. 

New  Lebanon  Shaker  Settlement,  is  situated  two 
miles  south  of  the  Springs.  This  settlement  contains 
about  600  inhabitants,  1  church,  and  10  large  dwelling 
houses  occupied  in  common  by  the  United  Society  of  Be- 
lievers, as  they  call  themselves.  Formerly  the  religious 
services  on  the  Sabbath  attracted  many  visiters  ;  but  of 
late  they  have  discontinued  public  service,  for  the  alleged 
reason  that  they  were  disturbed  in  their  devotions,  by 
the  improper  conduct  of  strangers  visiting  them  from  idle 
curiosity. 

Two  miles  west  of  the  State  Line,  the  Albany  and  West 
Stockbridge  Railroad  passes  through  a  tunnel  600  feel 
in  length — excavated  through  solid  rock. 

At  the  State  Line,  38  miles  from  Albany,  and  162 
miles  from  Boston,  diverges  the  Housatonic  Railroad  to 
West  Stockbridge,  2'v  miles,  and  extending  thence  to 
Bridgeport,  Conn.,  down  the  valley  of  Housatonic — a  total 
distance  of  100  miles. 


1 


of  New 
he  same 
Crom  llif 

ly  situn- 
iles  enfl 
own  arnl 
IS.  The 
beini?  ten 
itersulfi- 
is  in  ccii- 
•ticularly 
:ulaiieou» 
houses,  1 
and  soDi* 

uated  two 

contains 

dwelling 

ty  of  Be- 

religious 

;  but  ol 

e  alleged 

lions,   by 

from  idle 

md  West 
GOO  feet 

',  and  l(i2 
ailroad  to 
thence  to 
ic — a  total 


EASTERN    TOITII. 


283 


I 


PiTT^FKLP,  49  miles  from  Albany,  and  151  miles  frctm 
JJoston,  by  railroad,  is  a  thriving  place,  where  centres 
the  main  business  of  this  part  of  ilerkshire  county,  which 
has  long  been  held  in  esteem  for  its  agricultural  and 
manufacturing  er.terprise  and  advancement.  The  east 
und  west  branches  of  the  Housatonic  river  here  unite, 
allording  an  immense  amount  of  hydraulic  power,  on 
which  are  situated  several  extensive  woollen  and  cotton 
factories,  and  a  manufactory  of  muskets,  which  supplies 
unnunlly  a  large  number,  exclusively  to  the  United  States 
Government. 

The  village  contains  about  2,500  inhabitants,  a  town 
hall,  5  churches  of  different  denominations,  and  the 
Berkshire  Medical  Institution,  besides  several  flourishing 
Seminaries  of  learning  for  tlie  respective  sexes. 

Dalton,  5  miles  from  Pittsfield,  is  situated  on  the  east 
branch  of  the  llousutonic  river,  where  there  are  several 
paper-mills  and  otlier  extensive  manufactories. 

Hinsdale,  3  miles  furtlier  east,  is  situated  in  an  ele- 
vated region  well  adapted  to  grazing. 

Washingto.v,  5  miles  from  Hinsdale,  is  another  eleva- 
ted township,  in  which  the  east  branch  of  the  Housato- 
nic, and  the  Westfield  rivers  both  take  their  rise,  and  flow 
in  opposite  directions.  At  this  point  the  track  of  the 
ires^('//i  Rati  road,  is  elevated  1,430  feet  above  the  wa- 
ters of  the  Hudson  river,  which  is  reduced  to  about  900 
feet  at  the  State  Line.  21  miles  west  of  the  summit. 

Beckkt  is  the  next  mountain  town,  3  miles  east  of 
Washington.  Here  the  head  branch  of  the  Westfield 
river,  a  fine  stream  Avhich  joins  the  Connecticut  opposite 
to  Springfield,  takes  its  rise  in  the  midst  of  strikingly 
wild  and  varied  scenery,  made  up  of  lofty  and  richly 
wooded  hills,  dark  glens,  bold  precipices,  dashing  tor- 
rents and  cascades,  deep-cut  ravines  now  si-anned  high 


l\ 


284 


EASTEllN    TOUR. 


up  their  steep  sides  by  railroad  bridges,  and  now  filled  Uf 
the  required  grade  by  huge  embankments  upheld  by 
enormous  walls  of  massive  masonry,  with  here  and  there 
a  secluded  mountain  farm  spreading  its  green  pastures  to 
the  sun,  and  kept  forever  fresh  by  perennial  springs  and 
rivulets  of  the  purest  water,  all  presented  in  such  quick 
succession  as  the  railroad  train  sweeps  through  the  wind- 
ing gorges  of  the  mountains,  that  the  feeling  excited  is 
one  of  strange  and  vivid  pleasure,  combining  the  enjoy- 
ment of  nature  in  some  of  its  most  picturesque  and  ro- 
mantic forms,  with  a  sense  of  grateful  exultation  at  thr 
palpable  triumph  of  science  and  art  over  obstacles  to  hu- 
man intercourse  and  social  progress,  which  have  hereto- 
fore been  classed  among  the  most  formidable. 

Chester  Factory,  9  miles  further,  is  a  manufactur- 
ing settlement  on  Westfield  river. 

Chester  Village,  7  miles  further  east,  is  still  eleva- 
ted a*"!  surrounded  by  a  picturesque  region,  aboundinj.!; 
with  streams  celebrated  for  their  fine  trout. 

WESTriFLD,  11  miles  further,  is  a  place  of  singular  beau- 
ty, situatrd  on  the  river  of  the  same  name.  It  lies  in  ;» 
valley  or  basin,  of  about  4  miles  in  breadth,  surrounded 
by  high  hills,  and  is  supposed  to  i^ave  been  once  the  bed 
of  a  lake.  The  Hampshire  and  Hamden  Canal,  passes 
through  this  town,  in  its  course  from  Northampton  to  New 
Haven. 

West  Springfield,  S  miles  further,  is  handsomely 
situated  on  both  sides  of  Westfield  river,  at  its  confluence 
with  the  Connecticut,  which  is  spanned  by  a  fine  bridge 
extending  to  Springfield  on  the  opposite  t-hore.  The  beau- 
tiful valley  of  the  Connecticut,  is  here  seen,  during  the 
sum>ner  months  in  all  its  loveliness. 

Springfield,  102  miles  east  of  Albany,  and  98  miles 
west  of  Boston,   by  railroad  route,  is  most  delightfull y 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


285 


w  filled  It 
ipheld   by 
and  there 
lastures  to 
irings  and 
iuch  quick 
the  wind- 
excited  is 
the  enjoy - 
ue  and  ro- 
tioh  at  t\iv 
Lcles  to  hu- 
ive  hereto- 

lanufactui- 

still  eleva- 
aboundin;.; 

gularbeau- 
It  lies  in  ii 
surrounded 
ice  the  bed 
al.  passes 
ton  to  New 

landsomely 
confluence 
fine  bridge 
The  beau- 
during  the 

id  98  mile'? 
ielightfuUy 


situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Connecticut.  The  depot 
is  on  the  north  side  of  the  village,  which  has  several  we\\ 
kept  public  houses,  this  being  the  principal  stopping  place 
on  the  route,  east  and  west.  The  main  street  runs  north 
and  south,  parallel  with  the  river,  at  the  distance  from  it  of 
a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  two  or  three  miles  in  length.  The 
houses  are  mostly  well  built,  and  many  of  them  are  ele- 
gant, being  surrounded  in  several  instances  by  highly 
cultivated  grounds. 

This  is  a  populous  town,  containing  in  1840,  10,958  in- 
habitants.  The  village  has  a  court-house  and  jail,  8  church- 
es, 2  banks,  and  a  large  number  of  stores.  The  United 
States  Government  has  here  one  of  the  most  extensive 
arsenals  of  construction  in  the  country.  This  establish- 
ment, which  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  is  pleasantly  situa- 
ted on  elevated  ground,  half  a  mile  east  of  the  village. 
The  buildings  are  arranged  on  a  large  square,  and  con- 
sist of  one  brick  edifice  240  feet  by  32,  and  two  stories 
high,  occupied  by  lock-filers,  stockers  and  finishers ;  a 
brick  forging-shop,  150  feet  by  32;  a  brick  building  60 
feet  by  32,  and  2  stories  high,  the  second  story  forming  a 
spacious  hall  de\  oted  to  religious  worship ;  a  brick  building 
100  feet  by  40;  and  2  stories  high,  used  as  a  depository 
of  fire  arms,  said  to  contain  90,OOQ  muskets  in  complete 
order,  the  whole  being  arranged  in  the  most  beautiful 
and  regular  manner.  There  are  also  other  stores  and 
shops,  and  a  number  of  convenient  residences  for  the 
olicers  connected  with  the  establishment. 

The  principal  hotels  in  Springfield,  are  the  American 
House,  Main-street,  the  Massasoit  House,  Main-street, 
both  near  the  railroad  depot ;  Hamden  House,  Court 
Square,  and  the  United  States  Hotel,  Main,  corner  State- 
street. 

From  Springfield  there  is  a  line  of  conveyance  up  and 


!i 


286 


EASTKKN    TOUR. 


down  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut.  A  railroad  is  now 
constructing  to  Hartford,  25  miles  south,  whore  it  will 
connect  with  the  railroad  extending  to  New  Haven,  a 
total  distanoe  of  63  miles.  This  will  furnish  another  de- 
sirable rouie  between  Boston  and  New- York,  passiRg 
through  an  interesting  and  populous  region. 

Northampton,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut; 
17  miles  north  of  Springfield,  is  one  of  the  oldest  and 
most  beautiful  towns  in  Massachusetts.  It  was  incorpo- 
raied  in  1654,  and  in  1(S4G,  contained  3,750  inhabitants. 
The  village  is  handsomely  built,  containing  many  elegant 
houses,  a  court-house  and  jail,  5  churches,  a  bank,  and 
an  insurance  company,  30  stores,  and  several  public 
houses.  This  place  is  un  the  old  stage  road  between 
Albany  and  Boston.  Here  commences  the  Farmington 
Canal,  which  extends  to  New-Haven,  on  Long  Island 
Sound,  a  distance  of  87  miles, 

Mount  Tom,  in  the  town  of  Northampton,  and  Mount 
HoLYOKE  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  are  lofty  sum- 
mits, often  visited  by  tourists  for  their  commanding  pros- 
pects. The  latter  is  elevated  1,070  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  river,  affording  an  extensive  prospect  of  the  beau- 
tiful valley  of  the  Connecticut  and  a  wide  range  of 
country,  amply  compensating  the  labor  and  difficulty  of 
the  ascent.  Two  buildings  have  been  erected 'on  its  sum- 
mit for  the  purpose  of  accommodating  visiters  with  re- 
freshments. 

Hadley,  2  miles  east  of  Northampton,  and  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  river,  is  also  an  ancient  settlement.  It 
was  the  head-quarters  of  the  army  employed  for  the  de- 
fence of  this  section  of  country,  in  the  old  Indian  war  in 
1675-6,  with  the  gieat  Sachem,  Philip. 

The  other  villages  of  note  on   the   Connecticut  river 


BASTEHN    TOUn. 


287 


icut  river 


above  Northampton,  are  Gueenfield,  20  miles  north  ; 
Bkattledoro,  and  Bellows-Falls,  Vermont. 

The  railroad  route  eastward  from  Springfield,  passe* 
through  a  succession  of  small  villages,  .;hen  you  ar- 
rive at 

Worcester,  54  miles  distant.  This  is  a  large  and  im- 
portant place,  containing  many  facilities  for  trade  and  in- 
tercourse  in  various  directions.  In  addition  to  the  Boston 
and  Worcester  Railroad,  extending  to  Boston,  44  miles 
east,  the  Nonvich  and  Worcester  Railroad,  here  diverges 
south  to  Allen's  Point,  66  miles;  and  the  Blackstone 
Canal  connects  it  with  Providence,  45  miles  distant  in  a 
southeast  direction. 

The  village,  one  of  the  finest  in  New-England,  con- 
tains a  court-house  and  jail,  8  churches,  and  the  Massa- 
chusetts Lunatic  Asylum,  with  its  spacious  and  commo- 
dious edifices.  This  establishment  was  founded  in  ]832, 
and  by  its  admirable  management  and  condition  does  honor 
to  the  state.  Although  many  of  the  worst  ca^cs  of  in- 
sanity are  found  here,  yet  experience  has  proved  that 
there  are  very  few  cases  of  derangement,  which  may  not 
be  ameliorated  by  the  kindly  influence  of  humane  treat- 
ment addressed  to  the  moral  and  social  principles  of  our 
nature. 

The  principal  hotels  in  Worcester,  are  the  American 
Temperance  Hotel;  the  United  States  Hotel,  and  tbs 
Worcester  House.  '      ' 

The  cars  run  over  the  road  between  Worcester  and 
Boston,  in  about  two  hours,  passing  through  several  plea- 
sant villages. 

BOSTON,  the  seat  of  government  in  Massachusetts  and 
and  great  commercial  and  social  centre  of  New-England, 
stands  on  a  peninsula  in  the  westernmost  and  deepest  in- 
land  curve  of  Massachusetts  Bay.    The  peninsula,  origi- 


(' 


i 


I 


28S 


EASTKIIN    TOUIl. 


nally  ol'  very  uneven  surface,  was  principally  marked  by 
three  boll  hills  called  Beacon  Hill,  Copp's  Hill,  and  Fort 
Hill ;  and  its  greatest  lengtli,  measuring  from  the  Rox- 
bury  line  wlicre  it  connects,  on  the  south,  with  the  main- 
land, across  "The  Neck"  northerly  to  the  head-land 
formed  by  Fort  Hill,  opposite  to  Charlestovn,  is  about  ?, 
miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth,  from  C  •]  River  b;«y, 
behind,  or  on  the  west  side,  to  the  harbor  in  front,  on  the 
east  side,  is  about  1  mile.  Taking  the  center  of  the  town. 
at  or  near  Cornhill  and  the  Old  State  House,  for  tlie  point 
of  observation,  it  is  in  N.  Lat.  42  deg.,  21  min.,  23  sec; 
in  E.  Lon.  from  the  meridian  of  Washington,  5  deg.,  5s 
min.,  and  in  W.  Lon.  from  Greenwich,  ]]ng.  71  deg.,    1 


min.,  9  sec. 


Boston  was  founded  in  August,  1630,  ten  years,  lackini; 
about  four  months,  after  the  first  landing  of  the  Pilgrims 
at  Plymouth  in  December,  1G20.  During  the  colonial 
period  the  growth  of  the  town,  as  of  the  countay  gene- 
rally, was  slow.  Even  as  late  as  1790,  when  the  first 
census  was  taken  under  the  present  Government  of  the 
United  States,  then  newly  established,  tlic  population  ol 
Boston  was  only  13,038.  In  1800,  it  had  risen  to21,937; 
in  1810,  to  33,250;  and  in  1320,  to  43,298;  showing  a  ra/c 
of  increase,  in  each  successive  period,  of  about  33jJ  per 
cent.  In  1330,  however,  the  number  had  advanced  to 
61,391;  and  in  1340,  to  93,383;  showing  a  raic  of  increase, 
not  far  from  50  per  cent  in  each  of  these  two  periods. 
This  acceleration  in  the  ratio  of  increase,  from  about  one 
third  to  one  half,  is  somewhat  remarkable,  not  so  much, 
perhaps,  for  its  amount,  as  from  its  coincidence  with  that 
change  in  the  policy  of  our  national  government  whicli 
was  adopted  for  the  purpose  of  introducing  and  promot- 
ing domestic  manufactures,  through  the  agency  of  dis- 
criminating and  protecting  duties  on  imports.    Up  to  the 


ncipally  marked  by 
pp's  Hill,  and  Fort 
ing  from  the  Rox- 
th,  with  the  main- 
to  the  head-hind 
■lestovn,  is  about  :i 


C 


River  b;'y, 


bor  in  Ciont,  on  the 
center  of  the  town. 
House,  for  tlie  point 
.,  21  min.,  23  sec.; 
lington,  5  deg.,  5N 
I,  Eng.  71  deg.,    I 

),  ten  years,  lackini: 
ing  of  the  Pilgrims 
)iiring  the  colonial 

the  country  gene- 
'90,  when  the  first 
jovernment  of  the 
,  the  population  of 
liad  risen  to  2 1,937; 
!'J8;  showing  a  rate 

of  about  33 i  per 
:  had  advanced  to 
;  urate  of  increase, 
hesc  two  periods, 
xse,  from  about  one 
able,  not  so  much, 
Incidence  with  that 
overnment  which 
Licing  and  promot- 

he  agency  of  dis- 
iiports.     Up  to  the 


,»    ,  ;"HF-  'f'  -.1'  i 


'    \ 


;l 


I- 


fi. 


m 


1  o  I'  U  . 


nolly  of  very  uo*  ■ 
three  boll  hills  ca 
Ulil ;  nm\  iU)  ^re. 
bury  J I  ue  whcr 


was  priucijiullj  M>arl>etl  by 
.  •'••cou  IfiU,  Copp's  Ilill,  ami  Fort 
'  'jJiib,  .V(r*(*urin(i;  I'rmu  the  Uox- 

:.i  th»^  ftoutb,   With  the  nuiirj. 

jiojilirrly  to  th'.:  luad-land 
foransd  by  Fort  tlill,  oiH,>^;«ap  lo  CKarlestu'^n  if  aliout  :t 
mile«,.au(J  its  greatest  bicniih,  trmn  Cluirlcs  Uivfjr  b.iy, 
behmU,  I  r  m  the  wcit  w.i<^,  to  tae  harbur  in  front,  ua  lli« 
castsUe,  ia^ubcul  I  mile.  TnUi.ig  tlit'ccnttior  thv  tmvn, 
at  or  ncu-  C-.tahill  Dmi  the  OIil  Sltt«.'  House,  tor  the  poiut 
of  ohMtVAtioi  ,  it  i»  iftiN.  Lat.  4v»  ijt%,  21'  mn...  23  soc; 
in  E.  Lou,  fva»n  themeiis|i*tt  of  V/ttshinjrtL.i,  5  dog.,  5S 
Tniu..  and  in  W.  Lon.  fioin  C'rftfinwiclj.,  i«i^.  71  d^Jg.,  t 
miti.,;)%ec. 

Bo.ston  wrtft  luundf'^d  i,p  Aajfusi  .<';k>,  ten  j?«^»rs,  laekiiiv' 
nbout  four  mwitlw,  HlVr  the  tirr't  luudi^ig  oi  the  Pilgiiuis 
at  Plyinoa^  i»  t)«ceittber,  lb20.  During  ihe  coloDJa' 
H.iOtltbefrD  ' In* 'tttwti,  as  of  tU4  country  gi-m;- 

rallv  '  fcit'm  as  late  as  1790,  whco  the  lir.si 

censttw  was  tikvit.  w»»4«r  the  pieseai  Government  of  ihv 
tfmtS'tl  6lat«s,  'y  eRlablitihed,  the  i>opulatictt  ot 

tjoston  was  oi>,i>  lu  J.^UU,  it  had  rj^tn  to'il.DST; 

ift  piO,  to  U3,2i><'  .  t^!>i»  T..  4:),298i  KiKminga  /-a/v! 

of  iacreaM,  in  ea  \  •.   i  ;^     .d,  of  aboi/t  33^  pfr 

cent.  lu  fi-^JO,  bowevfrf,  the  nv*«ibiir  had  o»«l,.>.:iced  to 
63j3f>*,  aunia  J%10,  to:>o.,3!ii3;  sliov.i&garfli«ofia>'ita8i:, 
*life$  for  ^'  |»er  cetJt  in  each  of  these  two  piriods. 

■;  ,tt  t'^t  ratfo  of  luorff  »«».  troiuahoutono 

'  )»  4«,'rm!\vbat  rniuarl»ah.U-.  not  h-,  much,, 

jw  ,.  '  r ij  i-{%  from  its  eoihriiUkce  *ith  that 

t'biv  ,  !  ■;  ftir  uatumal  govf.TJif«!<iint    which 

vvai- .  ,  itrpose  of  iutroducinif  ;.ad  promot- 

ing dometi  lie  ma.! 'ii!i.;!i'.ires-  through  the  agcacy  of  dis- 
crimitiaUtif  and  i*-:  -it  ( tmifc-  duties  on  imitoitn.    Uji  to  tii^' 


cijiul!)  iiiarkcl  by 
ip's  lliU,  ami  Fort 
\\f  I'roin  ihr;  Uox- 
'  .  \Mih  tht  muiri* 
to  th'o  h(  ad- la  rid 
i;st'j'fl»i».  is  altoat.  i 
h(n!<:h  .Uivor  Imv, 
•or  in  front  od  iIik 
;entvif»*th«.' trnvn. 
0U8C,  tor  Uie  poiut 

n3iL>\,  5  dog.,  5S 

tew  jrtRsr*,  lacking 
ig  fli  th«  Pilj^rim? 
iiriii!?  ihf  coloDJa; 
;U(?  cottntiy  gcni:- 
•",  vvheu  the  first 
ovcramejit  cf  thf 
the  i-opuuuicn  o'- 

'8,  tiiKj-v*jilKia  /•«/< 

of  abotr  M:^  i>fr 

hud  ml..:'.:-icrj   (o 

a  ralf  ofinoi-ieast:, 
le^u  two  pfriodii 
>«';  from  about  otit' 
ih.if.'.  not  ht,  much, 
ii-kkuce  ^illi  that 
(Vt-ram^nt  which 
K.lnff  ■■■ti'i  promo t- 
Hi  ag,ucj"  of  dis- 
ports.   Ui>  to  tilt' 


OD 

o 

to 

H 
O 

2 


3 
O 


o 

X 

r 
0) 
n 

> 


EASTFf!"V    TOLK. 


289 


l^crlod  roferrcd  to,  the  capital  nnd  the  enterprise  of  Boston 
had  hecn  chiefly  employed  in  commerce  and  its  dependent 
occupations  ;  nnd  thongli  the  change  in  question  was  not 
strenuously  o,)posed  by  the  great  majority  of  the  com- 
mcjrcial  closses  of  that  city,  yet  when  it  was  once  ndopt- 
f.'d,  no  community  in  the  country  embarl:ed  in  manufac- 
tures more  promptly  and  elficiently;  and  tlie  result  may, 
lit  least,  be  r.een  in  the  striking  coincidence  between  the 
date  of  that  {•han'»o  which  enlarged  the  field  of  enterprise 
for  the  intelii'^once,  capital,  labor,  and  slvill  of  that  coi.i- 
inunity,  and  the  commencement  of  a  grnatly  acceleratec 
rate  of  increase  in  its  population  and  wealth. 

In  this  progress  of  population  the  original  limits  of  the 
peninsula  have  been  found  much  too  narrow iov  the  grow- 
ing numbers,  and  the  city  now  consists  of  three  distinct 
parts,  namely,  Boston  of  the  peninsula — South-Boston, 
built  along  the  westerly  base  and  slopes  of  Dorchester 
Heights,  on  ground  formerly  belonging  to  the  town  of 
Dorchester,  but  annexed  to  peninsular  Boston  in  1804 — 
nnd  East-Boston,  built  on  an  island  in  the  harbor,  former* 
ly  called  Noodle's-Island,  lying  off  against  the  northerly 
portion  of  the  peninsula  and  separated  from  Charlestown 
and  the  main-land  on  that  side,  by  the  waters  of  the  Mys- 
tic river  as  they  mingle  with  the  harbor.  It  is  connected 
with  the  main  land  at  Chelsea  by  a  bridge  600  feet  long, 
and  with  the  peninsular  city  by  steam  ferry  boats  which 
start  from  r  h  side  every  five  minutes.  East  Boston  has 
grown  up  \kholly  since  1833.  It  is  the  station  of  the 
Liverpool,  or  Cunard  line  of  Steam  Packets. 

The  peninsular  situation  of  Boston  has  produced  the 
necessity  of  an  unusual  number  of  bridges  to  connect  the 
city  with  the  surrounding  country.     These  are  six  in 
number  and  of  great  length;  and  though  they  are  all  of 
wood,  and  without  any  pretensions  to  architectural  beau- 


290 


EASTBIIN    TOUR. 


ty,  yet  their  great  extent,  number,  and  position,  give  them 
an  imposing  aspect,  while  their  great  ulility  and  the  train 
of  ideas  associated  therewith,  render  them  objects  ot" 
lively  interest.  Charles  River  Bridge,  1,503  feet  long, 
and  Warren  Bridge,  1,390  feet,  lead  to  Charlestown  ; 
West-Boston  Bridge,  2,758  feet  with  a  causeway,  in  im- 
mediate continuation,  3,432  feet,  leads  to  Cambridge  and 
the  Harvard  University;  Canal  Bridge,  2,796  feet,  leads 
to  East- Cambridge,  and  about  mid- way  extends  an  arm  to 
State-Prison  Point  within  the  limits  of  Charlestown  ; 
South-Boston  Bridge,  1,550  feet,  and  Free  Bridge,  1,828 
feet,  both  lead  to  South-Boston  ;  and  besides  all  these 
there  is  a  bridge-like  structure,  a  noble  work  vastly  more 
extensive  and  costly  than  either  of  the  bridges,  and  called 
Western  Avenue,  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  extending  from 
the  westerly  side  of  the  city  across  Charles  River  bay  to 
firookline,  with  a  branch  leading  to  Roxbury,  the  whole 
of  which  was  designed  for  a  tide-dam,  as  well  as  a  road, 
and  which  furnishes  a  vast  amour>t  ol  hydraulic  power. 

The  streets  of  Boston,  especially  in  the  older  quarters 
of  the  city,  are  rather  irregular  and  narrow;  but  no  city 
in  the  Union  is  more  substantially  built,  or  contains  a 
greater  proportion  of  spacious  and  costly  private  man- 
sions; and  no  city  on  the  globe  can  boast  of  as  high  a 
degree  of  cleanliness.  In  this  particular,  so  important 
to  the  health,  comfort,  and  pleasantness  of  a  large  town, 
the  streets,  public  areas,  and  private  courts  and  yards  of 
Boston  are  truly  admirable  and  a  model  for  all  other 
cities ;  and  the  simple  means  by  which  this  desirable  con- 
dition of  things  is  secured,  is  an  ordinance  which  forbids 
the  inhabitants  to  throw  offal,  dirt,  fragments,  or  filth  of 
any  sort,  vegetable  or  animal,  upon  the  ground  in  the 
streets,  or  in  private  inclosures,  but  requires  all  these 
*  things  to  be  put  into  casks,  or  vessels  of  some  kind,  and 


EAST£KX    TOUR. 


Sdl 


[ive  them 
i  the  train 
bjects  of 
eet  long, 
lestown  ; 
y,  in  ira- 
ridge  and 
?et,  leads 
an  arm  to 
rlestown  ; 
ge,  1,82?^ 
all  these 
istly  more 
md  called 
ding  from 
^er  bay  to 
the  whole 
as  a  road, 
power. 
I'  quarters 
it  no  city 
oniains  a 
ate  man- 
is  high  a 
mportant 
rge  town, 
yards  of 
all  other 
rable  con- 
h  forbids 
or  filth  of 
(id  in  the 
all  these 
iind;  and 


then  are  regularly  removed  by  the  scavengers.  Thus,  the 
frequent  handling  of  this  noisome  rubbish,  which  is  the 
obvious  and  unavoidable  consequence  of  permitting  them 
to  be  cast  upon  the  ground  at  all,  is  saved,  and  the  removal 
of  them  is  rendered  complete  and  certain.  These  simple 
regulations  being  enforced,  the  city  is  kept  clean,  sweet, 
and  wholesome  ;  and  that,  too,  with  far  less  expense  of 
time,  labor,  and  money,  than  is  possible  in  any  other 
way.  This  management  saves  to  Boston,  every  year, 
many  thousands  of  dollars  in  her  annual  expenditures ; 
and  its  good  sense  and  great  economy  are  so  palpable  as 
to  make  it  really  surprising  that  it  is  not  the  settled  sys- 
tem of  every  populous  town. 

Boston  harbor,  commodious,  deep,  easy  of  access,  and 
yet  easily  defended,  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  world.  The 
approach  to  the  inner  harbor,  immediately  in  front  of  the 
city,  is,  for  a  short  distance  and  immediately  under  the 
batteries  of  Fort  Independence,  by  a  channel  so  narrow 
that  two  large  ships  could  scarcely  pass  abreast,  while 
within,  it  spreads  into  a  noble  haven  spacious  enough  for 
500  ships  of  any  size  to  ride  securely. 

Boston  is  distinguished  for  the  extent  and  convenience 
of  its  wharves,  as  well  as  its  bridges.  Of  these,  Long 
Wharf,  the  oldest  and  longest;  projects  from  the  foot  of 
State-street  into  the  harbor  1650  feet.  The  other  two  of 
most  importance  are  Indian  Wharf  and  Central  Wharf, 
each  about  1,240  feet  long,  and  remarkable,  especially 
the  latter,  for  the  ample  dimensions,  the  convenience,  and 
the  massive  strength  of  their  warehouses. 

Of  the  public  edifices  the  most  conspicuous  is  the  State 
House.  It  stands  on  Beacon  Hill,  the  highest  ground  on 
the  peninsula  and  110  feet  above  tide  water.  It  was 
erected  in  1798,  of  brick,  with  a  front  of  173  feet  facing 
to  the  east.    It  is  surmounted  by  a  fine  dome,  52  feet  in 


292 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


diameteTj  copied  from  that  of  St.   Paul's  Cathedral  in 
London,  hut  on  a  reduced  scale  to  correspond  with  the 
proportions  of  the  building.     From  the  dome  a  cupola 
rises  to  the  height  of  230  feet  above  tide-water,  affording 
a  prospect  of  surpassing  beauty,  and  by  its  vast  extent 
invested  wi  th  the  most  Impressive  grandeur.     Indeed, 
considering  the  component  parts  of  tbis  view — the  wide 
circuit  of  horizon  which  it  commands — the  almost  endless 
variety  of  land  and  water — the  harbor  and  bay  studded  with 
islands  and  spreading  away  to  the  far  ocean — the  wide 
sweep  of  country  with  its  perpetually  varying  outline,  its 
numerous  villages,  its  embellished  rural  seats,  its  cultivated 
fields,  its  richly  wooded  hills,  its   grassy  vales  and  the 
shining  streams  that  wind  through  them — the  roads  cross- 
ing in  all  directions  and  alive  with  the  busy  population; 
and  immediately  beneath,  the  compact  and  crowded  city 
with  its  bridges,  its  masses  of  architecture,  its  towers, 
and  spires,  and  groves  of  masts,  and  the  incessant  move- 
ment on  land  and  water — this  vast  variety  of  objects  se- 
parately beautiful  and  yet   presenting  a  thousand  con- 
trasts,  as  well  as  harmonies,  to  heighten  the  effect  of 
each  and  augment  the  glory  of  all ;  and  to  crown  the 
whole,  the  character  of  the  community  occupying  the 
scene  ;  the  associated  idens  of  law  and  order,  of  civil  and. 
religious  freedom,  and  social  security  and  progress,  pro- 
claimed by  every  object  the  C5'e  rests  on,  and  the  histori. 
cal  recollections  of  the  devoted  patriotism,  the  invincible 
courage,  and  the  civil  wisdom,  which  prepared  this  pros- 
pect and  opened  the  sources  of  its  abounding  beauty  and 
magnificence — all  these  things  render  the  prospect  from 
the  cupola  of  the  State  House  in  Boston  the  noblest  on 
icarth. 

Another  of  the  public  edifices  here,   is  the  famous 
Faneuil  Hall,  so  named  in  honor  of  its  founder.    It  is  of 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


293 


1 


brick,  and  is  100  feet  long,  80  feet  wide,  and  3  stories 
high.  The  great  hall  within,  is  on  the  second  floor,  and 
is  76  feet  square,  with  deep  galleries  on  three  sides,  the 
other  side  being  furnished  with  a  desk  and  seats  like  a 
judicial  bench  to  accommodate  the  presiding  officers  of 
public  meetings,  and  the  wall  above  it  is  adorned  with 
portraits  of  Faneuil,  Washington,  H-ancock,  and  other 
worthies. 

»  Faneuil  Hnl!  Market  is  a  noble  structure,  which  with 
'Other  valuable  improvements,  owes  its  origin  to  Josiah 
Quincy,  (now,  and  for  many  years  past.  President  of  Har- 
vard University,)  during  his  Mayoralty.  It  is  built  of 
hewn  granite,  and  is  536  feet  long,  50  feet  wide,  and  2 
stories  high,  the  most  superb  market  house  in  the  Union. 

The  Massachusetts  Hospital  is  also  a  fine  granite  struc- 
ture, 168  feet  by  54  feet,  standing  in  an  area  of  four  acres, 
on  the  shore  of  Charles  river,  on  the  westerly  side  of 
the  city.  ,  .  .i-^y^^'t  ih^i' .^^'■.'  ^f:.i-h>iu  ^s  :\ui)->4Ji.> 
'  The  Custom  House,  built  by  the  United  States,  near 
the  head  of  Central  Wharf,  is  a  costly  edifice  of  granite, 
and  in  the  Grecian  style.  The  Houses  of  Industry.  Cor- 
rection, and  Reformation  are  in  South- Boston.  The 
■i'hurch  edifices  are  very  numerous  and  several  of  them 
are  very  stately  and  imposing.  Boston  is  abundantly  sup- 
plied with  excellent  hotels  and  public  boarding-houses, 
among  which  the  most  spacious  are  the  Tremont  House 
and  the  United  States  Hotel. 

Of  the  public  grounds  in  Boston  the  Common  is  far  the 
largest  and  most  beautiful.  It  is  on  the  southwesterly 
side  of  the  city,  looking  across  Charles  River  Bay  to 
Brookline  and  Roxbury.  It  contains  about  50  acres,  is 
laid  out  with  gravel  walks  and  abounds  with  trees.  It  is 
an  exceedingly  beautiful  place,  and  adds  very  much  to  the 
pleasantness  of  a  permanent  residence  in  Boston.       "i 


t      • 


294 


BASTKRN    TOUR. 


I 


In  commerce  and  navigation  Boston  ranks  as  the  second 
city  in  the  Union,  standing  next  to  New-York,  and  poo- 
•cssing  a  tonnage,  which,  taking  both  registered  and  eo- 
roUeJ  vessels,  amounted  in  1842,  to  193,502  tons;  and  in 
1843,  to  201,323  tons.  But  this  is  not  all.  An  able  and 
authentic  article  on  the  commerce  of  Boston,  in  the  Mer- 
chant's Magazine,  (N.  Y.,)  for  May,  1S44,  shows  that  a 
heavy  amount  of  the  commerce  of  New- York  is  carried 
on  in  Boston  vessels,  and  especially  of  the  East  India 
trade. 

The  great  line  of  steam  packets,  called  the  Cunard 
Line,  runs  between  Boston  and  Liverpool,  touching  both 
ways  at  Halifax.  Samuel  Cunard  of  Liverpool,  was  the 
chief  actor  in  establishing  this  line.  The  steamer» 
which  compose  it,  have  performed  their  passages,  on  aiv 
average  of  all,  in  12^  days  of  running  time  each  way;  thu» 
shortening  the  average  time  of  the  sailing  packets  nearly 
one-half;  or,  in  other  words,  annihilating,  for  the  purpose 
of  practical  intercourse,  about  half  of  the  previous  distance 
between  America  and  Europe. 

Lines  of  Packets  run  regularly  also,  from  Boston  to  all 
the  other  principal  parts  of  the  Union.  The  Middlesex 
Canal,  the  oldest  in  the  United  Slates,  furnishes  a  con" 
venient  boat  navigation  to  the  Merrimack,  at  Concord,  N. 
H.;  and  by  various  railroads  Boston  now  enjoys  a  speedy 
eommunication  by  land,  with  the  chief  trading  towns  of 
New-England,  and  above  all  with  Albany,  and  through 
the  canals  und  railroads  of  New- York,  with  the  great 
lakes  and  the  far  west.  • 

The  number  of  banks  in  Boston  in  1833,  was  24,  hav- 
ing an  aggregate  capital  of  about  $17,000,000;  and  28  in- 
surance companies,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  about 
$7,000,000. 

The  t'ttal  amount  of  capital  employed  in  manufactures 


I 


the  second 
and  pott- 
ed and  eU' 
is;  and  in 
a  able  and 
n  the  Mer- 
[>ws  that  a 
is  carried 
East  India 

le  Cunard 
ching  both 
)1.  was  the 
?  steamer* 
ges,  on  an 

way;  thu» 
kels  nearly 
ihe  purpose 

us  distance 

>slon  to  all 
Middlesex 
hcs  a  con" 
oncord,  N. 
s  a  speedy 
g  towns  of 
nd  through 
the  great 

s  24,  hav- 
and  2S  in- 
1  of  about 


d 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


295 


inufactures 


of  various  kinds  in  Boston,  is  stated  at  a  little  under  three 
millions;  but  a  far  larger  nmount  of  Boston  capital  is  in> 
vested  in  cotton  and  woollen  manufactures  in  Lowell, 
Wolthom,  and  other  places.  The  capital  employed  in  Bos- 
ton; in  foreign  trade,  is  stated  at  about  $12,000,000. 

Boston  has  always  been  justly  distinguished  for  the 
excellence  and  the  number  of  its  schools.  Besides  the  nu> 
roerous  private  seminaries  <  f  various  kinds,  there  are,  of 
the  public,  or  free  schools,  a  Latin  grammar  school;  a 
high  school,  in  which  mathematics  and  the  higher  branch- 
es  of  a  sound  English  education  are  efficiently  taught;  10 
grammar  and  writing  schools;  75  primary  schools;  and 
1  African  school.  These  are  all  sustained  by  the  prblic, 
throughout  the  year,  at  an  annual  cost  of  $200,000. 

The  medical  school  is  a  branch  of  Harvard  University, 
but  the  professors  reside  in  Boston,  where  the  school,  in 
point  of  fact,  is  located.  It  was  established  in  1782 ;  it  has 
six  professors,  a  library  of  more  than  5,000  volumes,  is 
well  attended,  and  has  a  high  reputation.  Other  valuable 
institutions  are  the  Athenoeum,  with  one  of  the  best  li- 
braries in  the  country,  contaning  about  30,000  volpmes. 

PniNciPAL  Hotels  in  Boston. 

Albion  Hotel,  Tremont,  cor.  Beacon-street ;  American 
House.  42  Havover-street ;  Bromfield  House,  Bromfield- 
street;  City  Hotel,  Elmstreet;  City  Tavern,  Brattle- 
street;  Commercial  Coffee  House,  Milk,  cor.  Lilerty-st.; 
Elm-Street  Hotel,  9  Elm-street ;  Exchange  Coffee  House, 
Devonshire-street ;  Hanover  House,  60  Hanoer-street ; 
Marlborough  Hotel,  229  Washington-street ;  Maverick 
House,  East-Boston  ;  Merchant's  Exchange  Hotel,  State- 
street  ;  Merrimack  House,  Friend,  cor.  Merrimack- street ; 
New-England  House,  Clinton-street ;  Pavilion,  41  Tre- 
mont*street ;  Tremont  House,  Tremont-street ;  United 
States  Hotel,  cor.  Lincoln,  Beach  and  Kingston- streets. 


i 


i;t 


t| 


296 


EASTERW     TOUK. 


^-'>.w         THE  VICINITY   OF  BOSTOIV.    -'-'.'V' 

No  plnce  in  the  Union,  probr.b1y,  exceefls  Boston,  for 
the  beauty  ami  variety  of  the  scenery  of  the  surrounding 
country.  Dorchester,  Iloxbury,  Brooldine,  Brighton, 
Cambri.lge,  Charlestown  antl  Chelsea,  are  among  the 
points  of  attraction  which  cluster  around  the  capital  of 
New-England.  Seaward,  the  beautiful  hay  expands  on 
the  east,  embosoming  several  small  islands,  some  of 
which  are  fortified,  and  serve  as  breakwaters  to  the  im- 
portant harbor  of  Boston. 

Dorchester,  first  settled  as  early  as  1(530,  is  situated 
abou  4  i  miles  south  of  Boston.  It  is  embellished  with  many 
{  fine  country  residences,  which  with  the  substantial  farm- 
houses and  well  cultivated  farms,  give  abundant  evidence, 
of  prosperity  and  comfort.  The  population  of  the  town 
in  1840,  was  4,875.  The  peninsula,  consisting  of  Dor- 
chester Neck  and  Dorchester  Heights,  borders  on  Boston 
harbor,  and  the  Heights  are  included  within  the  corpo- 
rate limits  of  the  city,  under  the  name  of  South  Boston. 
In  the  night  of  March  4th,  1776,  the  army  under  Gen. 
Washington,  threw  up  works  on  Dorchester  Heights, 
which  commanded  the  harbor,  and  compelled  the  British 
to  evacuate  Boston. 

RoxBURY,  a  point  or  two  west  of  south  from  Boston, 
and  through  which  passes  the  Boston  and  Providence 
Railroad,  is  a  delightful  place  of  residence.  It  is  joined 
to  the  city  by  a  neck  of  land,  which  constitutes  a  broad 
avenue,  and  may  be  regarded  as  a  continuation  of  Wash- 
ington-street, Boston.  The  village  at  the  centre  of  the 
town,  contains  5  churches,  2  banks,  and  many  beautiful 
dwelling  houses.  *      ;  ','.      ,         :.      . 

QuiNCv,  10  miles  from  Boston  in  a  southerly  direction, 
is  distinguished  for  having  furnished  two  Presidents  of 


EASTERN     TOUR. 


297 


I  OS  ton,  for 
irrounJing 

Brin;hton, 
among  the 

capital  of 

'xpands  on 

5,  some  of 

to  the  im- 

is  situated 
with  many 
ntial  farm- 
it  evidenc 
f  the  town 
iig  of  Dor- 
on  Boston 
the  corpo- 
th  Boston, 
nder  Gen. 
Heights, 
he  British 

n  Boston, 
rovidence 

t  is  joined 

2S  a  broad 
of  Wash- 

tre  of  the 
beautiful 

direction, 
isidetkts  of 


the  United  States.  About  half  a  mile  northwest  of  the 
village  is  the  mansion  of  the  late  John  Adams,  the  im- 
mediate successor  of  Washington  as  President  of  the 
United  States.  His  remains  and  those  of  his  wife  repose 
beneath  the  new  church  at  Quincy.  A  handsome  monu- 
ment has  been  here  erected  to  their  memory,  by  their 
son,  John  Quincy  Adams,  the  sixth  president  of  the 
United  States. 

In  the  southwest  part  of  this  town  are  inexhaustible 
beds  of  gr,  lite,  for  the  transportion  of  which,  a  rail- 
road runs  from  the  quary  to  tide  water,  3  miles  in  length. 
This  was  the  first  railroad  made  in  the  country. 

Brookline,  4  miles  southwest  of  Boston,  like  all  the 
towns  in  the  vicinity,  is  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  and 
furnishes  many  elegant  country  seats  for  citizens  tran- 
sacting business  in  the  city.  ,  ,,  j,  i,.,,.;  .n.'  ,-!  },«, 

Brighton,  5  miles  west  of  the  city,  through  which 
passes  the  Boston  and  Worcester  Railroad,  was  former- 
ly a  part  of  Cambridge,  and  lies  between  that  place  and 
Brookline.  Here  is  annually  held  the  famous  Cattle 
Fair  and  Mart,  which  was  commenced  during  the  revolu- 
tionary war,  and  has  been  increasing  in  importance  ever 
since.  Most  of  the  cattle  for  the  supply  of  the  Boston 
market  are  brought  in  droves  to  this  place.  ,: 

Cambridgis,  3  miles  northwest  of  Boston,  is  one  of 
the  ancient  towns  of  New-England,  having  been  first 
settled  ill  1631,  under  the  name  of  Newtown.  It  is  the 
seat  of  Harvard  University,  formerly  called  Harvard 
College,  the  oldest  institution  of  the  kind  in  the  Union, 
having  been  founded  in  1638,  which  was  less  than  20 
years  after  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Plymouth. 
This  institution  is  more  richly  endowed  than  any  other 
college  in  the  United  States.  It  has  a  president  and  27 
professors  and  other  instructors,  and  usually  numbers 


I    I 


r 


\<  \ 


m 


UASTBKN    TO  tit. 


from  4  to  500  students.  The  annual  (rommencement  is 
on  the  4tb  Wednesday  in  August. 

In  the  town  of  Cambridge  are  three  handsome  villages, 
known  as  Old  Cambridge,  Cambridge- Port,  and  Kast 
Cambridge;  a  court-bouse  and  jail;  a  state  arsenal; 
5  churches,  and  several  select  schools.  The  population  in 
1840,  was  8,409.  '"^  ^    t:^' 

Mount  Auburn,  5  miles  from  Boston,  is  situated  la 
the  town  of  Cambridge.  Every  traveller  of  taste  should 
visit  this  cemetery.  !♦  is  the  Ptre  la  Chaise  of  thii) coun- 
try, and  is  located  in  one  of  the  most  delightful  spots  ever 
selected  for  the  repose  of  the  dead.  The  grounds  are  very 
extensive,  compris'ng  hill  and  dale,  covered  with  trees 
and  shrubbery  of  almost  every  kind.  There  are  numerous 
avenues  for  carriages  and  paths  for  pedestrians,  designa- 
ted by  botanical  names.  The  first  interment  was  made 
in  1831;  since  then  it  has  gradually  been  filling  up,  and 
ornamented  by  art,  until  it  now  presents  a  sacred  and  ro- 
mantic appearance. 

Charlestown,  1  mile  north  of  Boston,  is  situated  on 
a  peninsula  lying  between  Charles  and  Mystic  rivers,  and 
connected  with  Boston  by  Warren  and  Charles  river 
bridges.  The  streets,  though  not  laid  out  with  great 
regularity,  are  many  of  them  wide  and  ornamented  with 
trees.  The  public  buildings  are  a  State  Prison,  conduct- 
ed on  the  most  improved  model ;  the  Massachusetts  In- 
sane Hospital,  called  from  a  distinguished  benefactor, 
the  McLean  Asylum  ;  an  Alms- House ;  town  house,  and 
9  churches.  The  United  States  Navy  Yard  at  this  place 
covers  60  acres  of  ground,  and  is  an  important  naval  de- 
pot. Here  is  a  Dry  Dock,  built  of  hewn  granite,  of 
sufficient  magnitude  to  take  in  the  largest  ships  of  war  ; 
a  marine  hospital,  an  arsenal,  a  powder  magazine,  a 
pacioas  warehouse,  and  a  house  for  the  superintendent, 


ncement  is 

nc  village*, 
,  and  Kast 
te  arsenal ; 
)pulation  iu 

situated  ia 
aste  should 
)f  thiscoun- 
I  spots  ever 
ds  are  very 
with  trees 
e  numerous 
s,  designa* 
I  was  made 


ns  up, 


and 


n 


red  and  ro* 

situated  on 
rivers,  and 
larles  river 
with  great 
ented  with 
conduct- 
husetts  In- 
benefactor, 
house,  and 

this  place 
t  naval  de- 
granite,  of 
)s  of  war  ; 
agazine,  a 

intcndent, 


BA8TBRN     TOUR. 


299 


a.11  of  brick,  and  two  immense  wooden  buildings,  under 
which  the  largest  ships  are  constructed. 

Bruku's  Hill,  commonly  called  Bunker  Hill,  imme- 
diately in  the  rear  of  the  town,  is  the  spot  where  a 
bloody  battle  was  fought  at  the  commencement  of  the 
revolutionary  struggle,  June  17,  1775,  in  which  the 
Americans  lost  in  killed  and  wounded  449,  and  the  firitish, 
1,055.  Here  /ell  the  lamented  Warren,  the  volunteer 
martyr  in  the  first  great  battle  that  American  principles 
waged  against  British  tyranny.  To  commemorate  this 
important  event,  n  granite  obelisk  has  been  erected  oa 
the  eminence,  overlooking  the  Navy  Yard  and  the  harbor 
of  Boston.  It  is  30  feet  square  at  the  base,  220  feet 
high,*  and  15  feet  square  at  the  top,  and  is  ascended 
within  by  a  winding  stair-case.  Its  estimated  cost  is 
Hbout  $100,000.         J 

Battle  of  Bunker  Hill. 

"  The  space  allotted  to  this  article  will  not  permit  a 
full  detail  of  the  thrilling  events  of  the  terrible  conflict 
that  cnsueJ.  The  morning,  on  both  sides,  was  spent  in 
preparation;  the  afternoon  in  battle  and  carnage.  The 
British  distinctly  saw  the  Provincials  gathering  their 
strength  as  if  for  a  mighty  effort ;  the  Americans  heard 
as  distinctly  the  rattling  of  artillery  carriages  in  Boston, 
and  saw  the  various  movements  of  the  British  troops  in- 
dicating  an  attack.      *  Now,'  said   Prescott,    '  we  shall 

•  The  F-Junker  Hill  MonumenI,  although  225  feet  high,  is  3'JO 
fi.et  he  low  the  level  of  the  cross  on  Si.  Peter's  Church  at  Rome; 
WOlowerthun  the  cross  on  Si.  Paul's  in  London;  and  135  less 
than  the  P<iuth';on  in  Paris.  It  is  18  feet  higher  th  in  the  Monu- 
ment iu  London;  ao  L'ct  higher  th;in  the  column  of  the  Place  Ven- 
domc  at  Paris;  aa  foei  higher  than  the  Washingtfin  Monument  ul 
Kaltimore;  100  feet  higher  thin  I'ompey's  Pillar  ai  Alexandria, 
«ud  SO  feet  higher  th*n  Trajan's  Pillar  at  Rome. 


m 


300 


KANTl^IlN     TOU« 


have  a  fight  ;  we  shall  bent  them  too."  The  li^'ht,  in 
due  time,  came  on — the  JJritisli  nre  driven  to  their 
bouts — they  rally  ai^aiii  with  desperate  courage — again 
they  are  forced  to  retreat.  Hetter  counsels  governed  them 
on  the  third  trial.  The  ollicers  and  men  no  longer  de- 
spised their  enemy.  A  dear.boui,'lit  victory  crowned  their 
last  ell'ort.  Such  is  the  outline  of  this  lamed  battle.  To 
till  it  up  with  a  detail  of  all  the  events  that  took  place- 
would  require  a  volume.  We  shall  glance  at  one  or  two 
scenes.  About  three  o'clock  in  the  al'ternoon  the  prepa- 
rations for  defence  and  attack  were  well  nigh  completed. 
The  eight  rods  square  redoubt,  the  breastwork  and  the 
rail  fences  constituted  all  the  military  works  of  the  Pa' 
triots.  Most  of  the  original  detachment,  under  Col. 
Frescott,  were  at  the  redoubt  and  breastwork.  The 
New-Hampshire  and  Connecticut  troops,  under  Stark, 
Heed  and  Knowlton,  were  at  the  rail  fence.  General 
Putnam  on  horseback,  was  animating  the  )uen  wherever 
he  deemed  his  pre>ence  required.  General  Pomeroy, 
glowing  with  military  ardor,  was  at  the  rail  fence. 
Gen.  Wurren,  to  learn  the  art  of  war  under  a  veteran, 
was  in  the  redoubt.  As  the  veteran  ollicers — volunteers 
for  this  day — appeared  along  the  lines,  they  were  receiv- 
ed with  enthusiastic  shouts  by  the  men.  There  was  no 
glittering  array  of  polished  armor — no  splendid  proces- 
sion of  gorgeous  uniforms.  The  troops  were  in  homely 
apparel,  and  with  but  little  pretension  to  military  disci- 
pline. JJut  they  were  full  of  enthusiasm,  firm  and  de- 
termined. 

"  At  a  little  distance,  in  fill  view,  the  long  lines  of 
British  troops  were  preparing  lor  the  battle.  Their  scar- 
let dresses,  the  glow  of  the  sun  upon  their  burnished 
arms  and  brazen  artillery,  the  precision  of  their  move- 
ments— ail  made  up  a   brilliant  and  imposing  spectacle. 


KAhTKHN    TOUn. 


801 


il 


to   their 
e — again 
icd  them 
iiijer  Uf- 
neil  their 
ttle.     'I'u 
lok  place 
ic  or  two 
le  prepu- 
inipleted. 
i  and  the 
r  the  Pu- 
ider   Col. 
k.      The 
er   Stark, 

General 
wherever 
Fomeroy , 
liil  fence. 

veteran, 
olunteers 
Ire  receiv- 
e  was  no 
d  proces- 
\i\  homely 

ry  disci- 

11  and  dc- 

lines  of 

lieir  scar- 

[urnished 

|ir   move- 

)ectacic. 


A  fleet  of  armed  vessels  and  floating  batteries  lay  in  the 
bay,  from  which,  and  from  the  forts  in  Boston,  a  eon- 
tiiuied  cantH)nade  was  kept  up.  The  scene  of  action  was 
the  middle  of  an  amphitheatre  of  hills,  second  to  none  in 
the  world  for  the  beauty  of  its  position  and  magnificent 
scenery.  On  these  hills — on  every  house  and  steeple  ol" 
the  metropolis,  the  population  of  the  country  had  been 
collectlncf,  drawn  to  the  spot  by  the  sound  of  the  cannon. 
The  season  was  an  uncommonly  fine  one,  and  the  spring 
had  clothed  the  things  of  earth  in  their  most  beautiful 
array.  The  day  was  one  of  unusual  serenity  ;  not  a 
cloud  obscured  the  horizon,  hardly  a  wave  rufHcd  the 
waters  ;  nature  lay  in  silence  and  repose,  reflecting  from 
the  harbor  below,  or  the  river  near,  the  islands  and  ships 
that  adorned  their  surface.  *  Slendid  phenomena!  how 
soon  to  be  defiled  by  stains  of  dust  and  blood!  Fearful, 
omnious  silence !  how  soon  to  be  broken  by  shouts  of  rage 
and  groans  of  agony  ! ' 

"  An  hour  passed  on.  How  changed  the  scene  !  The 
cool  provincials,  a  second  time,  are  shouting  the  proud 
huzza  of  victory ;  the  brave  troops  of  Howe  a  second 
time  are  retreating  under  the  murderous  fire  of  the  Ameri- 
cans— a  fire  which,  though  it  mowed  dow^n  whole  ranks 
together,  Ihey  received  with  astonishing  fortitude.  Then, 
too,  Charlestown  was  on  fire;  the  conflagration  was 
spreading  from  house  to  house,  from  street  to  street,  and 
ascending  the  lofty  spire  of  the  church  steeple  in  a  pyramid 
i)f  lUirne  high  over  the  rest  in  awful  sublimity.  Then 
the  noise  of  crackling  fires  and  crashing  edifices  was 
blended  with  the  shouts,  the  shrieks,  the  groans  that 
make  up  the  frightful  clang  of  the  battle  field.  The 
wrtalhs  of  smoke  rolled  over  the  American  lines  to  the 
north,  leaving  to  the  determined  warriors  a  full  view  of 
their  flying   enemy — and  there   they  stood — that  gallant 


7 


II 


i 


302 


BASmUM     TOUIt. 


band — filleJ  wilh  the  heroism  that  ever  supports  men 
when  Hghling  I'ur  their  wives,  their  children  and  their 
country. 

"  Such  is  the  nature  of  the  scenes  of  the  first  and  moKl 
important  hnllle  of  the  Revolution.  It  was  the  first  time 
that  American  valor  cncuuntcrcJ  British  valor  in  mortal 
•trife.  It  opened  the  eyes  of  the  defenders  of  the  minis- 
try 10  the  des.perate  struggle  i;*>fore  them.  Its  inHuence, 
it  might  Le  shewn,  was  felt  throughout  the  war  that  en- 
sued. The  victory  the  British  gain'jd  was  a  dear  bought 
one  ;  it  cut  down  a  large  part  of  their  army.  On  the  side 
of  the  Americans  the  loss  was  sev>.'re,  but  nothing  com- 
pared io  that  of  the  British.  The  valor  of  Prescott,  the 
self-sacrificing  bravery  of  Warren,  the  undaunted  coarnge 
of  Putnam — the  names  of  Pomcroy,  Stark,  Knowlton, 
McCleary — all  are  known  to  every  American.  Their 
fame  is  part  of  the  inheritance  of  the  past.  Let  their 
memory  be  ever  held  sacred.  And  let  the  name  of  Bun- 
K£R  Hill  ever  be  remembered  as  long  as  freemen  thrill 
to  the  sound  of  freemen's  deeds." 

CiiELsiKA,  3  miles  northeast  of  Bosjiiii,  is  connected 
with  Charlestown  by  a  bridge  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mystic 
river.  Here  are  located  several  nourishing  manufacture 
ing  establishments.  A  fine  view  of  Boston,  from  tlixo 
point,  embellishes  this  work. 

East  Boston,  although  separated  from  the  peninsuin 
on  which  the  State  House  stands,  is  a  part  of  Boston,  and 
is  described  in  connection  wilh  the  city. 

Boston  HAunou,  lying  in  the  west  of  Mu^sachuselt« 
Bay,  presents  many  points  of  attraction,  although  not 
equal  to  the  Bay  of  New-York  in  beauty  ol  outline,  the 
islanJs  presenting  a  nakcJ  appearance  from  being  wash- 
ed by  the  tide  and  waves  dashing  against  their  shores. 
Fort  Independence  is  situateu  un  an  island  at  the  outlet 
of  Boston  harbor,  3  mile-  from  the  city,  and  opposite  to 


KASTRKN    TOUK. 


303 


lorts  men 
and  their 

nnd  moMt 
:  first  time 
'  in  mortal 
the  minis- 

influence, 
ar  that  en- 
jar  bought 
)n  the  side 
thing  com* 
escott,  the 
,ed  co»rnge 
Knowlloa, 
an.    Their 

Let  their 
ne  of  Bun- 
emcn  thrill 

connected 
the  Mystic 
xanuluctur- 
,  from  !ib» 

penlnsulft 
loslou,  and 

sachusetts 
Lhoiiijh  not 
ullinc,  the 
einij  wash- 
eir  shores, 
the  outlet 
opposite  to 


it  is  Governor's  Island,  containing  a  fortification  erected 
during  the  la^it  war.  These  two  forts  command  the  ea- 
trance  into  the  harbor  of  Boston.  Seven  or  eight  miles 
below  is  a  light-house,  at  the  northeast  extremity  of  th« 
channel,  where  vessels  enter  Massachusetts  Bay,  or  the 
Atlantic  Ocean. 

Nahant,  12  miles  northeast  from  Boston  by  wnter, 

iiud  1 1  miles  by  railroad  and  stage,  is  a  peninsula  jutting 

out  into  Massochusetts   Bay,   conncoied  with   the  main 

land  by  a  delightfui  beach,  or  narrow  isthmuR  of  aand, 

HO  compact  as  not  to  receive  the  imprint  of  a  horse's  hoof, 

or  of  a  carriage  wheel,  a  mile  and  a  half  in  lensth,  and 

just  high  enough  to  prevent  the  waves  from  flowing  over 

it.     The  peninsula  consists  of  two  parts,    called  Great 

Nahant  and   Little    Nahanl,  connected    by  liass  Neck. 

Little  Nahant,  the  inner  portion,  contains  forty-two  acres, 

tt  part  of  which  is  under  good  cultivation.     Great  Nahant, 

the  outer  portion,  is  two  n\ilcs  long,  and  in  some  places 

half  a  mile  wide,  containing  463  acres.     The  surface  is 

uneven,  rising  from  50  to  100  feet  above  the  level  of  the 

sea.     The  shores  generally  consist  of  precipitous  blufTs 

of  ragged  rock,  rising  from  20  to  50  feet  above  the  tide, 

with  a  great  depth  of  water  below.     In  some  places, 

however,  are  fine  beaches  well  adapted  for  bathing.    The 

roar  of  the  ocean  against  the  rocks,  and  the  dashing  and 

boiling  of  the  waves  is  sometimes  terrific. 

A  spacious  liutel,  containing  about  100  rooms,  is  erected 
near  the  east  extremity  of  Nahant,  on  elevated  ground, 
overlooking  the  ocean  lor  many  miles.  There  are  other 
boarJing  liouses  in  the  vicinity,  and  about  twenty  beau- 
tiful cottages,  the  summer  residences  of  families  of  for- 
tune. This  place  is  much  frequented  both  for  health  and 
pleasure  during  tlie  warm  season.     A  steamboat   plies 


i 


304 


EASTKRN    TOtTR. 


between  IJoston  and  Nahant,  and  stages  run  from  Lynn, 
in  connection  with  the  cars  on  the  Eastern  Railroad. 

Amonc;  the  strange  visiters  at  IVahant,  it  was  currently 
asserted  that  the  Sea  Serpent,  often  seen  along  the  coast, 
here  made  his  appearance  for  several  successive  seasons. 
This  is  very  probable,  as  the  great  quantity  offish  found 
at  this  place  would  at  any  time  furnish  him  a  bountiful 
repast. 

In  addition  to  the  places  already  described  in  the  Vici- 
nity of  Boston,  there  are  numerous  other  places  worthy 
of  visiting,  more  remote,  but  easily  reached  by  land  or 
water,  by  means  of  the  various  railroads,   stages  an. I 
.    steamboats,  running  to  and  from  the  city. 


Railiioad  Route  from  Boston  to  Concord,  N.  H. 

Via  the  Boston  .§•  Lowell,  Nashau,  ^  Concord  Railroads. 

To  Medford 4  miles. 

South  Woburn, 3  7    " 

Woburn, 3  10  " 

Wilmington, 5  15  " 

Richardson's, 4  19  " 

Billcrica, 2  21  ' 

Lowell, 5  26  *' 

Middlesex 2  28  " 

Chelmsford, 2  30  " 

Tyngsboro, 4  34  " 

Little's, 3  37  " 

Nashua 4  41  " 

Thornton's, 6  47  '' 

Reed's  Ferry, 4  51  " 

Goft''s   Falls, 4  55  " 

Manchester, 4  59  " 

Hookset, 8  67  " 

Concord, 9  76  " 

Passenger  cars  leave  Boston  and  Concord  three  times 
daily,  stopping  at  the  intermediate  stations.  Usual  fare 
through,  $2.50j  usual  time  3  hours.  The  depot  in  Bos- 
ton is  on  Lowell-street. 


EASTBRK    TOUR. 


305 


Passengers  on  leaving  Boston,  by  railroad  route,  for 
Lowell,  Nashua,  or  Concor.l,  N.  H.,  are  conveyed  over 
the  Jioston  and  Loivell  Railroad,  a  distance  of  26  miles, 
in  about  one  hour.  This  is  one  of  the  best  constructed 
roads  in  the  country — being  finished  with  a  double  track, 
on  which  are  laid  56  lb.  T  nils,  throughout  its  whole 
length,  and  the  cars  run  regularly  up  on  one  track,  and 
down  on  the  other.    >  i    'j;;  ;  ■  •■   ..    *i.«.i 

The  number  of  miles  run  on  this  road  by  locomotive 

engines  during  the  year  1842,  was. 

With  passenger  trains, ...     78, 745 

Merchandize  trains, 47, 463 

Miscellaneous, 17,399 

Total  miles, 143,607 

The  amount  of  profits  divided  during  the  same  period' 
was  $144,000,  being  2  dividends  of  4  per  cent  each  on  a 
capital  of  $1,800,000. 

At  Wilmington,  15  miles  from  Boston,  diverges  the 
Boston  and  Maine  Railroad,  furnishing  a  second  continu- 
ous railroad  communication  between  Boston  and  Portland, 
Maine,  a  distance,  by  this  route,  of  112  miles. 

The  City  of  Lowkll,  26  miles  northwest  from  Boston, 
stands  on  the  south  side  of  the  Merrimack  river,  below 
Pawtucket  falls,  and  the  junction  of  Concord  river.  This 
place  dates  its  origin  only  20  years  back,  and  yet  in 
wealth  and  numbers,  it  already  rinks  as  the  second  city 
in  Massachusetts.  It  is  a  remarkable  place,  and  well 
deserves  the  name  of  "  the  Manchester  of  America." 

The  water  power  at  Lowell  is  very  extensive  and  ea- 
sily available.  It  is  furnished  by  a  canal  60  feet  wide,  8 
feet  deep,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  commencing 
at  the  head  of  Pawtucket  falls,  which  have  a  descent  of 
about  30  feet.  By  locks  at  its  outlet,  it  forms  a  boatable 
passage  around  the  falls  in  the  Merrimack.    From  the 


306 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


main  canal,  the  water  is  carried  by  lateral  canals  to  mills 
and  manufactories,  where  it  is  used,  and  is  then  discharg- 
ed into  the  river  below. 

Many  cities  and  villages,  in  different  parts  of  the 
Union  have,  in  a  few  years,  by  the  aid  of  water  power, 
capital,  enterprise  and  skill,  sprung  up  from  nothing,  and 
grown  with  a  vigor  and  rapidity  that  is  truly  surprising; 
but  Lowell  it  is  believed  outstrips  them  all.  In  1821,  it 
was  a  rugged,  barren  spot,  inhabited  by  only  a  few  fa- 
milies. In  18£6  it  was  incorporated  as  a  town,  aad  in 
1836  it  obtained  the  charter  of  a  city.  The  population 
in  1830,  was  6,474;  in  1840,  20,796;  showing  an  increase 
in  ten  years  of  14,322.  The  assessors'  valuation  of  pro- 
perty in  1840  was  $12,400,000. 

The  statistics  of  the  condition  of  the  Man.;<Kroiies 
at  Lowell,   furnish  facts  that  may  be  of  interest: 

"  Therr  ire  eleven  regular  Manufacturing  Companies  aj 
Lowell,  including  the  "  locks  and  canals"  or  water  pri- 
vilege company,  which  was  incorporated  in  1792,  but  did 
not  commence  operations  until  1822,  which  may  be  re- 
garded as  the  year  of  the  foundation  of  Lowell.  The 
Merrimack  Company  commenced  business  the  next  year, 
and  no  other  until  1824  In  1825,  the  Hamilton  Compa- 
ny sta/ted;  in  182^,  the  Appleton  and  Lowell;  in  1830, 
the  Middlesex;  in  1832,  the  Suffolk  and  Tremont;  in 
1833,  the  Lawrence;  in  1836,  the  Boolt;  and  in  1840,  the 
Massachusetts,  being  the  last.  These  eleven  companies 
employ  an  aggregate  capital  of  $10,700,000,  employing 
6,295  females  and  2,345  males.  Besides  these  there  are 
in  Lowell  extensive  Powder  Mills,  a  Flannel  Mill,  Blan- 
ket Mill,  Batting  Mill,  Foundry,  Paper  Mill,  Bleaching, 
Cord  and  Whip  Factory,  Planing  Machine,  Reed  Machine, 
Grist  and  Saw  Mills,  employing  a  capital  of  $500,000 
and  500  workmen,  making  the  whole  manufacturing  ca- 


EASTERN    TOUU. 


870 


tis  to  mills 
I  discharg- 

rts  of  the 
ter  power, 
thing,  and 
iurprising; 
n  1821,  it 
a  few  fa- 
ll, nad  in 
populaticn 
n  increase 
on  of  pro- 

iv'V---oiies 
est: 

npaniesaj 
water  pri- 
12,  but  did 
lay  be  re- 
ell.    The 
ext  year, 
Compa- 
iu  1830, 
iinont;  in 
1840, the 
umpanies 
iploying 
there  are 
ill,  Blan- 
[leaching, 
achine, 
500,000 
ring  cd" 


pital  of  Lowell  $11,200,000,  employing  over  9,000  men, 
women  and  children. 

"  The  ten  principal  Manufactories  already  designated 
have  33  Mills,  beside  print  works;  run  6,194  looms  and 
201,070  spindles,  producing  1,425,800  yards  of  cloth  per 
week,  or  74,141,600  during  the  jear  1843.  The  cotton 
fabricated  by  them  during  the  year  was  22,880,000  lbs. 
Of  Printed  Cloths  273,000  yards  per  week  are  made  by 
the  Merimack  and  Hamilton  companies.  The  Middlesex 
makes  9,000  yards  cassimeres,  and  1,800  yards  of  broad- 
cloth  per  week,  beside  85,000  of  cottons.  FlanneU  are 
made  at  the  Hamilton,  sheetings  and  shirtings  at  nearly 
all,  with  drillings,  printed  cloths,  &,c.,  at  several.  The 
average  wages  paid  to  females  is  $1.75  per  week  beyond 
the  cost  of  board;  to  males  $2.20  per  week;  The  pay- 
ments are  all  made  in  cash  and  amount  to  $150,000  per 
month.  These  are  the  statistics  of  the  chief  manufactu- 
ring town  in  America — a  place  which  twenty  years  since, 
had  not  a  "  local  habitation  nor  a  name." 

Besides  its  manufacturing  establishments,  Lowell  pos" 
sesses  some  fine  public  buildings.  Mechanics'  Hall,  a 
costly  brick  edifice,  was  erected  by  the  Mechanics'  Asso- 
ciation, an  incorporated  institution  owning  a  handsome  li- 
brary and  a  fine  mineralogical  cabinet,  which,  together 
with  a  reading  room,  is  always  open  to  the  public.  There 
are  also  other  institutions,  a  great  number  cf  schools,  16 
churches,  2  banking  houses,  and  a  savings'  bank;  several 
well  kept  hotels,  and  about  200  stores  of  different  kinds. 

The  Indian  name  of  this  place  was  Wamsit,  the  seat 
of  a  tribe  of  praying  Indians,  at  the  breaking  out  of 
Philip's  war,  in  1765.  Its  present  name  was  given  in 
honor  ol  Francis  C.  Lowell  of  Boston,  distinguished  for 
successful  efforts  to  introduce  the  cotton  manufacture  into 
the  United  States. 


803 


EASTIORX    TOUU. 


Nashua,  New  Hampsliire,  15  miles  north  ol"  Lowell 
is  «ituateJ  on  the  west  sile  of  the  Merrimack  river,  imme, 
diately  north  of  the  mouth  of  Nashua  river.  Tliis  place 
contains  8  churches,  several  public  liousets,  40  or  50 
stores,  and  many  elegant  dwellings.  Here  terminates 
the  Nashua  and  Loiuell  Railroad  and  commences  ihe 
Concord  Railroad,  which  extends  to 

Concord,  distant  35  miles,  which  li«.s  on  the  west  side 
of  the  Merrinmck  river,  where  are  two  bridges.  This  is 
the  capital  of  the  state  of  New-Hampshire,  and  a  place  of 
considerable  importance.  The  village  contains  about 
4,000  inhabitants,  200  dwelling  houses,  a  State  House, 
which  is  an  elegant  structure  of  hewn  granitej  a  state 
prison,  a  solid  structure  also  of  granite;  a  court-house 
and  jail,  6  churches,  several  hotels  and  taverns,  and  about 
40  stores.  The  falls  in  the  Merrimack,  and  the  locks  at 
this  place,  create  a  vast  water  power,  which  is  exten- 
sively used  for  manufacturing  purposes,  I'y  means  of 
artificial  navigation  for  boats,  effected  by  dams,  locks  and 
canals  above  Lowell,  the  Middlesex  Canal  below,  and  a 
railroad  recently  linishei,  a  communication  is  formed 
with  Loston,  where  the  extensive  trade  of  this  section  of 
country  centres. 

From  Concord  a  line  of  travel  extends  northeast  to- 
ward the  White  Mountains,  north  to  Littleton,  until  it 
intersects  the  upper  valley  of  the  Connecticut  river,  end 
northwest  to  Burlington,  Vermont;  connectino;,  at  the 
latter  place,  with  the  line  of  travel,  north  to  Montreal 
and  south  to  Whitehall  and  Albany.  For  a  table  of  dis- 
tances from  Burlington  to  Concord,  see  page  277. 


KASTERN    TOUR. 


309 


"  Lowell 
21',  imme, 
'his  place 
40  or  51) 
?rijfiiniites 
iiices  ihe 

west  side 

This  is 

n  place  of 

as  about 

i  House, 

;  a  state 

lit- house 

lid  about 

!  locks  at 

s   exten- 

[neans  of 

)clvs  and 

and  a 

formed 

jction  of 

ast  to- 
until  it 
er,  and 

at  the 
Montreal 

of  dis- 


.V  able  of  Distances  from  Concord  to  Mount  Washington. 

To  Meredith  Bridge, 26  milej?. 

Meredith  Villagt, 9  35  " 

Centre  Harbor, 4  39  "           ' 

Moultonborough, 5  44  " 

Sandwich, 2  46  " 

Taraworth, 12  58  " 

Eaton, 6  64  " 

Conway, 8  72  " 

Bartlett, 10  82  " 

Notch, 12  94  " 

Crawford  House, 12  106  <* 

Summit  of  Mt.  Washington,..  9  115  " 

The  White  Mountains  af  New  Hampshire  are  situa- 
ted in  the  county  of  Coos,  in  the  north  part  of  the  state, 
distant  about  100  miles  from  Concord,  in  a  northerly  di- 
rection, and  about  the  same  distance  from  Portland, 
Maine.  They  are  also  approached  by  tourists  from  Bur- 
lington, via  Montpelier  and  Littleton,  and  from  Ports- 
mouth, N.  H.  The  road  from  the  latter  place  passing  in 
the  vicinity  of  several  picturesque  lakes,  the  largest  of 
which  is  Winncpisiogee  lake,  on  which  runs  a  steam- 
boat from  Alton  to  Centre  Harbor,  a  distance  of  20  miles. 

The  route  from  Boston  to  Concord  by  railroad,  and 
thence  to  the  White  Mountains  by  stage,  is  perhaps  the 
most  frequented  in  approaching  this  magnificent  moun- 
tain region. 

The  Portland  route,  since  the  completion  of  the  rail- 
road to  Boston,  is  another  expeditious  and  charming 
journey — passing  through  several  thriving  villages  on  the 
seaboard,  and  from  Portland  proceeding  by  stage,  in  a 
northwest  direction  to  the  mountains. 

The  different  modes  of  conveyance  and  variety  of 
routes,  afford  the  traveller  an  opportunity  of  approach- 
ing this  region  by  one  road  and  returning  by  another — 
thus  increasing  the  interest  of  the  excursion.  f 

V 


ii'li 


I  i 


310 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


"  The  Indian  name  of  these  mountains,  according  to 
Dr.  Belknap,  was  ^giocochook.  An  ancient  tradition 
prevailed  among  the  savages,  that  a  deluge  once  over- 
spread the  land,  and  destroyed  every  human  being,  ex- 
cept a  single  powow  and  his  wife,  who  sheltered  them- 
selves in  these  elevated  regions,  and  thus  preserved  the 
race  from  extermination.  The  fancy  of  the  natives  peo- 
pled this  mountain  with  beings  of  a  superior  rank,  who 
were  invisible  to  the  human  eye,  but  sometimes  indica- 
ted their  presence  by  tempests,  which  they  were  believed 
to  control  with  absolute  authority.  The  savages,  there- 
fore, never  attempted  to  ascend  the  summit,  deeming  the 
attempt  perilous,  and  success  impossible.  But  they  fre- 
quented the  defiles  and  environs  of  the  mountain,  and  of 
course  propagated  many  extravagant  descriptions  of  its 
appearance;  declaring,  among  other  things  equally  credi- 
ble, that  they  had  seen  carbuncles  at  immense  heights, 
which,  in  the  darkness  of  night,  shone  with  the  most 
brilliant  and  dazzling  splendor. 

*'  These  mountains  are  the  highest  in  New-England;; 
and,  if  we  except  the  Rocky  mountains,  whose  height  has 
not  yet  been  ascertained,  they  are  the  most  lofiy  of  any 
in  the  United  States.  Their  great  elevation  has  always 
rendered  them  exceedingly  interesting  both  to  the  abori- 
ginal inhabitants  and  to  our  ancestors.  They  were  visit 
ed  by  Neal,  Jocelyn,  and  Field,  as  early  as  1632:  they 
gave  romantic  accounts  of  their  adventures,  and  of  the 
extent  and  sublimity  of  the  mountains. 

"  Since  that  time  this  mountainous  region  has  been  re 
peatedly  explored  by  hunters  and  men  of  science.  Their 
height  has  been  a  subject  of  much  speculation;  but  from 
the  best  surveys,  Mount  Washington  is  6,234  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.    The  following  is  the  height  of  the 


T'^f""' 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


cording  to 
t  tradition 
once  over- 
being,  cx- 
ered  them- 
sserved  the 
alives  pco- 
rank,  who 
mcs  indica- 
!ie  believed 
iges,  there- 
eeming  the 
at  they  frc- 
tain,  and  of 
(tions  of  it» 
[jually  credi- 
ise   heights, 
Ih  the  most 

w-England;: 
ic  height  has 
loiiy  of  any 
has  always 
0  the  abori- 
were  visit 
1632:  they 
,  and  of  the 

las  been  re 
ence.    Their 
m;  but  from 
4  feet  above 
eight  of  the 


principal  mountains  above  Connecticut  river  at  Lancas- 
ter,  to  wit: 

Mount  Washington, 5, 850  feet. 

"  Adams, 5,383 

"  Jelferson 5,281 

"  Madison, 5,039 

"  Monroe 4,932 

''  Franklin, 4,470 

"  La  Fayette, 4,339 

'*  The  names  here  given  are  those  generally  appropri- 
ated to  the  different  summits.  Mount  Washington  is 
known  by  its  superior  elevation,  and  by  its  being  the 
southern  of  the  three  highest  peaks.  Mount  Adams  is 
known  by  its  sharp  terminating  peak,  and  being  the  sec- 
ond north  of  Washingtou.  Jefferson  is  situated  between 
these  two.  Madison  is  the  eastern  peak  of  the  range. 
Monroe  is  the  first  to  the  south  of  Washington.  Frank- 
lin is  the  second  south  and  is  known  by  its  level  surface. 
La  Fayette  is  known  by  its  conical  shape,  and  being  the 
third  south  of  Washington.  The  ascent  to  the  summits 
of  these  mountains,  though  fatiguing  is  not  dangerous; 
and  the  visitant  is  richly  rewarded  for  his  labor  and  curi- 
osity. .    . 

"  Although  these  mountains  are  65  miles  distant  from 
the  ocean,  their  snow  white  summits  are  distinctly  visi- 
ble, in  good  weather,  more  than  50  miles  from  shore. 
Their  appearance  at  that  distance  is  that  of  a  silvery  cloud 
skirting  the  horizon. 

"  It  would  be  vain  in  us  to  attempt  a  description  of  the 
varied  wonders  which  here  astonish  and  delight  the  be- 
holder. To  those  who  have  visited  these  mountains,  our 
descriptions  would  be  tame  and  uninteresting;  and  he 
who  has  never  ascended  their  hoary  summits,  cannot  re- 
alize the  extent  and  magnificence  of  the  scene.  These 
mountains  are  decidedly  of  primitive  formation.    No- 


:n2 


EASTGKN    TOUll. 


i:^ 


thing  of  volcanic  origin  has  ever  yet  been  been  discovered 
on  the  most  diligent  researcli.  They  have  for  ages,  pro- 
bably, exhibited  the  same  unvarying  aspect.  No  mine- 
rals are  here  found  of  much  rarity  or  value.  The  rock 
which  most  abounds,  is  schistus,  intermixed  witli  green- 
stone,  mica,  granite  and  gneiss.  The  three  highest  peaks 
are  composed  entirely  of  fragments  of  rocks  heaped  to- 
gether in  confusion,  but  pretty  firmly  fixed  in  their  situa- 
tions. These  rocks  are  an  intermediate  substance  be- 
tween gneiss  and  micaceous  schistus;  they  are  excessively 
rough  and  coarse,  and  grey,  almost  black,  with  lichens. 
The  mica  in  them  is  abundant,  of  different  colors,  red, 
black,  and  limpid,  and  though  sometimes  several  inches 
in  diameter,  yet  most  often  irregularly  stratified.  The 
granite  contains  emerald,  tourmaline,  of  which  are  found 
some  beautiful  specimens,  and  garnets,  besides  its  proper 
constituents.  Crystais  of  quartz,  pyrites,  actinote,  jas- 
per, porphyry,  lluate  of  lime,  and  magnetic  iron  ore,  are 
sometimes  obtained. 

'*  During  nine  or  ten  months  of  the  year,  the  summits  of 
the  mountains  are  covered  with  snow  and  ice,  giving  them 
a  bright  and  dazzling  appearance.  On  every  side  are 
long  and  winding  galleys,  deepening  in  their  descent  to 
the  plains  below. 

The  Notch  of  the  White  Mountains,  is  a  phrase  appro- 
priated to  a  very  narrow  defile,  extending  two  miles  in 
length  between  two  huge  cliff's  apparently  rent  asunder 
by  some  vast  convulsion  of  nature:  probably  that  of  the 
deluge.  The  entrance  of  the  chasm  on  the  east  side,  is 
formed  by  two  rocks  standing  perpendicular  at  the  dis- 
tance of  22  feet  from  each  other:  one  about  20  feet  in 
height,  the  other  about  12.  The  road  from  Lancaster  to 
Portland  passes  through  this  notch,  following  the  course 
of  the  head  stream  of  the  Saco. 


^ 


en  discovered 
for  ages,  pro- 
t.     No  mine- 
;.    The  rock 
id  witli  green- 
highest  peaks 
ks  heaped  to- 
in  their  situn- 
substance  he- 
re excessively 
with  lichens, 
it  colors,  red, 
several  inches 
alified.    The 
lich  are  found 
ides  its  proper 
actinote,  jas- 
e  iron  ore,  are 

he  summits  of 
c,  giving  them 
;very  side  are 
eir  descent  to 

phrase  appro- 
;  two  miles  in 
rent  asunder 
)ly  that  of  the 
e  east  side,  is 
ar  at  the  dis- 
out  20  feet  in 
i  Lancaster  to 
ing  the  course 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


313 


''  The  scenery  at  this  place  is  exceedingly  beautiful 
and  grand.  The  mountain,  otherwise  a  continued  range, 
is  here  cloven  quite  down  to  its  base,  opening  a  passage 
for  the  waters  of  the  Saco.  The  gap  is  so  narrow,  that 
space  has  with  difficulty  been  found  for  the  road.  About 
half  a  mile  from  the  entrance  of  the  chasm  is  seen  a  most 
beautiful  cascade,  issuing  from  a  mountain  on  the  right, 
about  HOO  feet  above  the  subjacent  valley,  and  about  2 
miles  distant.  The  stream  passes  over  a  series  of  rocks 
almost  perpendicular,  with  a  course  so  little  broken  as  to 
preserve  the  appearance  of  an  uniform  current,  and  yet 
so  far  disturbed  as  to  be  perfectly  white.  This  beautiful 
stream  which  passes  down  a  stupendous  precipice,  is 
called  by  Dr.  Dwight,  the  Silver  Cascade.  It  is  probably 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world. 

''  At  the  distance  of  4  of  a  mile  from  the  entrance  of  the 
chasm  is  a  brook,  called  the  Flume,  which  falls  from  a 
height  of  210  or  250  feet  over  three  precipices — down  the 
two  first  in  a  single  current,  and  over  the  last  in  three, 
which  unite  again  at  the  bottom  in  a  small  basin  formed 
by  the  hand  of  nature  in  the  rocks.  The  water  is  pure 
and  transparent,  and  it  would  be  impossible  for  a  brook 
of  its  size  to  be  modelled  into  more  diversified  or  delight- 
ful forms." 

There  are  two  or  more  bridle  roads,  leading  from  the 
hotels  where  travellers  stop,  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Wash- 
ington. The  Crawford  routchas  been  measured  and  found 
to  be  nine  miles  and  twenty-six  rods.  The  Fabyan  route 
is  nine  miles  one-quarter  and  thirty-seven  rods,  ascertain- 
ed by  accurate  measurement,  made  Aug.  12,  1843. 


t 


314 


EASTKRN    TOUR. 


ROUTKS  nETWEEN  BoSTON    AND  PORTLAND,    Me. 

TVere  are  now  three  great  lines  of  travel  between  Bos- 
ton and  Portland. 

The  first  is  by  railroad  route  via  the  Boston  and  Maine 
Railroad,  diverging  from  the  Lowell  Railroad  at  Wil- 
mington, and  passing  through  Haverhill,  Mass.,  and  Ex' 
eler  and  Dover,  N.  H. 

The  second  is  by  the  Eastern  Railroad,  passing  through 
Portsmouth  and  several  other  important  places  on  the 
seaboard.  This  road  and  the  former  unite  at  South  Ber- 
wick, 12  miles  east  of  Portsmouth. 

The  third  is  by  steamboat  through  Massachusetts  Bay, 
passing  Cape  Ann,  and  running  down  the  Atlantic  coast 
to  Cape  Elizabeth  and  Casco  Bay,  on  which  bay  Port< 
land  is  situated. 


Railroad  Route  from  Boston  to  Portland,  via  Boston  and 

Maine  Railroad. 

To  Wilmington, 15  miles. 

Andover, 8  23  «' 

North  AnJover, 3  26  *' 

Bratlfurd, 5  31  " 

Haverhill 1  32  " 

Plaistow, 5  .37  " 

East  Kingston, 6  43  " 

Exeter, .' 6  49  " 

South  New  Market, 4  53  " 

New  Market, 4  57  " 

Durham, 4  61  " 

Dover 5  66  '• 

Somersworth, 3  69  " 

Salmon  Falls  Village, 1  70  " 

South  Berwick,  junction  East- 
ern Railroad, 3  73  " 

Portland,  39  112  " 


rLAND,  Me. 
el  between  Bos- 

iston  and  Maint 

lailroad  at  Wil- 

Mass.,  and  Ex- 

passing  through 
t  places  on  the 
te  at  South  Ber^ 

ssachusetts  Bay, 
le  Atlantic  coast 
which  bay  Port- 


,  via  Boston  and 


15  miles. 


23 

(1 

26 

(( 

31 

i( 

32 

<( 

37 

<( 

43 

(« 

49 

tt 

53 

(( 

57 

(( 

61 

(( 

66 

(( 

69 

(( 

70 

cf 

73 

(< 

112 

<t 

SASTBRN    TOUR. 


316 


tlailroad  Route  from  Boaton  to  Portland,  by  Eattern 

^Railroad. 

To  Lynn, 9  miles. 

Salem, 5  14  " 

Beverly,  2  16  " 

Wenham, 4  20  " 

Ipswich, 5  25  " 

Rowley,  4  29  " 

Nkwburyport, 5  34  " 

Salisbury, 2  36  " 

Keabrook, 4  40  " 

Hampton 4  44  " 

Greenland, 5  49  " 

PoRTSMOUTfi, 5  54      " 

Kittery,  Maine, 1  65  " 

South  Berwick , 11  66  " 

Aorlh  Berwick, 6  72  " 

Wells, 5  77  " 

Kennebunk,   5  82  '• 

Saco, 10  92  *• 

Scarboro', 8  100  " 

Portland,   5  105  " 

Cars  on  both  these  routes  run  through  in  five  hoars 

and  fifteen  minutes. 

Steamboat    Route  from.   Boston  to    Bangor,   Me.,    via 

Portland. 

To  Cape  Ann, 32  miles. 

Mouth  of  Piscataqua  river,. . .  30  62  " 

Hood  Island, 26  88  " 

Portland,    17  105  " 

Thomaston, 65  170  " 

Bdfasf, 30  200  " 

Bucksport, 20  220  " 

Frankfort, 10  2.30  " 

Bangor, 15  245  •' 

Passen2;ers  going  over  the  Bo5<o/i  end  Maine  Railroad, 
on  their  route  to  Portland,  leave  Boston  from  the  depot 
in  Lowell-street,  and  arc  carried  rapidly  through  a  sue 
cession  of  villages,  and  an  interesting  section  of  country, 
until  they  arrive  at  South   Berwick,  Maine,  where  the 


I 


310 


KASTKUN    TOUIl. 


country  nssuincsrathrr  a  barren  aspect,  whicli  is  continu- 
ed until  you  approach  Portland. 

Passengers  on  leaving  Hoslon  i)y  tlic  Kaalcrn  Railrond 
route,  are  carried  by  a  steam  iVrry  hoat  to  I'ast-lioston, 
startinj;  from  near  Lewis's  VVhurf.  This  is  a  well  con. 
ducted  line  of  travel;  and  the  road  beini?  constructed  in  the 
most  substantial  manner,  induces  sireat  speed  as  well  as 
safety.  The  number  of  miles  run  on  this  Eastern  Jiail- 
road  in  1842,  which  extends  from  Boston  to  Portsmoutl^ 
N.  H.,  was, 

With  passenger  trains, l'.V.),ll') 

Merchandize  trains, 28,  IGO 

Total  miles, 1GS,I75 

The  total  number  of  passengers  carried  during  the 
same  period,  was,  d31,2()0. 

Lynn,  9  miles  from  Boston,  is  the  first  stopping  placr 
after  leaving  the  city,  and  the  point  where  passengers 
take  the  stage  for  Nahant.  This  place  has  long  been 
celebrated  for  the  manufacture  of  ladies'  shoes,  of  whicli 
it  produces  over  2,500,000  pairs  annually.  The  village, 
which  is  scattered,  contains  8  churches,  2  banks  ol'  dis- 
count, a  savings  bank,  several  public  houses,  and  30  or 
40  stores. 

The  City  of  Salem,  14  miles  from  Boston,  is  an  old  and 
wealthy  town.  In  1840  it  contained  15,082  inhabitants 
principally  engaged  in  manufactures,  commerce  and  na_ 
vigation.  It  is  a  well  built,  pleasant,  healthy  place,  dis- 
tinguished for  its  enterprise,  and  for  its  numerous  and 
well  managed  institutions.  Next  to  Plymouth  it  is  the 
oldest  town  in  the  state,  having  been  settled  in  1G28, 
It  is  chiefly  built  on  a  tongue  of  land  formed  by  two 
inlets  from  the  sea,  called  North  and  South  rivers,  over 
the  former  of  which  is  a  bridge,  upwards  of  l,t'00  feet 
long,  connecting  it  with  Beverly,  and  the  latter  forms  the 


i^  continU' 

Railroad 
st-Uostoii, 

well  pon- 
ott'd  in  liic 
lis  well  OS 
ivrii  Rail- 
irtsmouthf 

71.') 
IGO 

175 
luring  tli<' 

[)lng  placr 

)asscngers 

long  been 

ofwliicli 

e  village, 

s  ol'  dis- 

nd  30  01 

in  old  and 
labitants 

and  na, 
ace,  dis- 
•oiis  and 
it  is  tin." 
in    102^. 

by  two 
2rs,  over 
,500  feel 
brms  the 


KASTEHN    TOUH. 


317 


harbor.  The  harbor  has  good  anchorage  ground,  but  ve.s- 
st'l.s  drawing  more  than  12  or  14  feet  of  water  must  be 
partially  unloaded  before  they  can  come  to  its  wharves. 
The  situation  of  Salem  is  low,  but  it  is  pleasant  and 
healthy.  It  is  well  built,  and  latterly  most  of  the  houses 
which  have  been  erected,  are  of  brick,  and  many  of  them 
are  lustefnl  and  elegant.  The  compact  part  of  Salem  is 
about  one  and  1  half  miles  lorg,  and  half  a  mile  wide. 
The  streets  are  irregular,  h  iving  been  originally  laid  out 
without  much  regard  to  symmetry  and  beauty.  In  the 
southern  part  o*  the  ten  there  is  an  elegant  public 
square  or  common,  containing  nb  '^t  10 acres,  surrounded 
by  a  handsome  public  walk,  ■  i/i.mented  with  rows  of 
trees.  An  aqueduct  sur  plies  the  city  wit  an  abundance 
of  excellent  spring  wc  tev.  Salem  was  long  the  second 
town  in  New  England  in  wealth,  commerce,  and  popula- 
tion; but  Providence  and  Lowell  now  exceed  it  in  popu- 
lation, and  New  Bedford  in  shipping.  It  was  long  dis- 
tinguished for  its  East  India  trade,  by  which  it  was  great- 
ly enriched;  but  this  branch  of  commerce,'  though  still 
carried  on,  is  less  extensive  than  formerly.  On  a  penin- 
sula below  the  town  are  Fort  Pickering  and  Fort  Lee; 
and  on  Baker's  Island  there  is  a  light-house.  The  ton- 
nage of  this  port  in  1840,  was  37,020. 

Among  thu  i-  iblic  buildings  are  a  court-house,  a  jail, 
an  alms  house,  a  market  house,  an  East  India  Marine 
Museum,  and  a  Lyceum.  It  Jias  9  banks,  with  an  ag- 
gregate capital  of  $2,000,000;  6  insurance  companies, 
w"tl  a  total  capital  of$950,000;  a  marine  insurancecom- 
pany,  and  an  institution  for  savings.  There  are  two 
public  libraries,  an  athenrcum  containing  10,000  volumes, 
and  a  mechanics'  library,  containing  1,200  volumes. 
There  are  16  churches-— 4  Unitarian,  4  Congregational,  2 
Baptist,  1  Episcopal,  1  Methodist,  1  Christian,  1  Roman 
Catholic,  1  Friends,  and  1  Universalist. 


318 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


n 


Harmony  Grove  Cemetery,  situated  on  the  east  side  of 
North  river,  about  one  mile  from  the  city,  was  laid  out 
in  1840,  and  now  presents  a  beautiful  aspect,  thecroundf" 
being  admirably  adapted  and  arranged  for  a  burial  place, 
Here  are  to  be  seen  picturesque  dells,  shady  lawns,  and 
craggy  rocks  covered  with  moss  grown  trees,  giving  the 
place  altogether  a  romantic  appearance. 

Beverly,  2  miles  from  Salem,  is  connected  with  the 
latter  place  by  a  bridge  1,500  feet  long.  The  village  con- 
tains 4  churclies,  1  bank,  and  1  insurance  company.  The 
inhabitants  are  chielly  employed  in  commerce  and  the 
fisheries. 

Ipswicjf,  25  miles  from  Boston,  is  a  port  of  entry.  It 
contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  1  bank,  4  churches,  a  fe- 
male seminary  of  considerable  celebrity,  2  public  houses, 
and  several  stores. 

Newburypout,  34  miles  from  Boston,  is  one  of  the 
capitals  of  Essex  county,  and  a  port  of  entry,  where  are 
unnually  built  a  number  of  large  vessels.  It  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Merrimack  river,  near  it8 
entrance  into  the  Atlantic.  The  streets  are  wide,  intersect- 
ing each  other  at  right  angles.  It  contains  a  brick  court* 
house  and  a  stone  jail,  a  custom  house  built  of  rough  gran, 
ite,  8  churches,  3  banks,  a  savings  bank,  3  insurance  com- 
panies, an  alms-house,  a  lyceum,  several  public  houses, 
and  about  100  stores.  Here  are  owned  numerous  vessels 
employed  in  the  cod,  mackerel,  and  whale  fisheries,  giving 
employment  to  upwards  of  one  thousand  men.  The  har- 
bor is  safe  and  spacious,  but  difficult  of  entrance. 

Portsmouth,  N.  II.,  54  miles  from  Boston,  51  from 
Portland,  Maine,  and  45  from  Concord,  is  the  largest  town 
and  the  only  seaport  in  the  state.  It  is  advantageously 
situated  on  a  peninsula  on  the  south  side  of  tin?  Piscata- 
qua  river,  three  miles  from  the  ocean.    The  streets  are 


KASTEIIN     TOUR. 


319 


last  side  of 
as  laid  out 
hecroundu 
iirial  place, 
lawns,  and 
giving  the 

I  with  the 
village  coil' 
ipany.  The 
ce  and  the 

f entry.  It 
rches,  a  fe- 
blic  houses, 

one  of  the 

,  where  are 

beautifully 

er,  near  its 

intersect- 
brick  court* 
ough  gran, 
irance  corn- 
lie  houses, 
•ous  vessels 
ries,  giving 

Tlie  har- 
ice. 

51  from 
irgest  town 
intagcously 
ly?  Piscata- 
streets  are 


somewhat  crooked,  yet  the  houses  are  mostly  well  buiil, 
and  some  of  them  elegant.     It  has  a  fine  harbor,  with  40 
feet  water  in  the  channel  at  low  tide,  and  is  protected  by 
islands  and  headlands   from  storms.    The  Piscatnqua, 
which  here  forms  the  boundary  between  the  states  of  New 
Hampshire  and  Maine,  is  about  half  a  mile  wide,  and  the 
tide  rising  10  feet,   flows   with  so  rapid  a  current  as  to 
keep  the  harbor  free  from  ice.    There  are  three  or  four 
fortilieJ  points  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbyr:  Fort  Consti- 
tution is  situated  on  Great  Island,  and  Fort  McClary,  in 
Kitlery,  on  the  north  side  of  the  harbor. 

On  Continental  or  Navy  Island,  lying  opposite  Ports- 
mouth, within  the  bounds  of  Maine,  is  an  extensive  Navy 
Yard  belonging  to  the  U.  States  Government,  which  has 
every  convenience  for  the  construction  of  ships  of  war  of 
the  largest  class. 

Portsmouth  contains  much  wealth  and  has  considerable 
trade,  though  its  back  country  is  rather  limited,  being 
situated  about  equi-distant  between  Boston  and  Portland, 
much  of  the  trade  of  the  interior  flows  to  those  places. 
Among  the  public  buildings  are  8  churches,  6  banking 
houses,  a  court  house,  2  market  houses,  an  athenocum,  an 
alms«house,  and  the  State  Lunatic  Asylumj  there  are 
about  150  stores  of  diflferent  kinds,  and  several  hotels. 
Those  of  most  note  are  the  Rockingham  House  on  State 
street}  Mansion  House,  (temperance,)  Congress-street; 
aud  Franklin  House,  Congress-street. 

On  leaving  Portsmouth,  proceeding  north,  the  railroad 
track  crosses  the  Piscataqua  river  by  means  of  a  sub- 
stantial bridge,  extending  to  Kittery,  Maine^  from  thence 
the  route  extends  11  miles  to 

South  Bkrwick,  where  the  Boston  and  Maine  Rail' 
road,  running  through  Dover,  intersects  the  Portland, 
Saco  and  Portsmouth  Railroad.    Here  the  cars  are  usu- 


320 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


ally  detained  a  short  time,  in  order  to  have  the  passen- 
gers transferred  from  the  former  road  to  the  latter,  which 
runs  through  to  Portland,  a  further  distance  of  39  miles. 

Wells,  11  miles  from  South  Berwick,  lies  a  few  miles 
east  of  the  railroad. 

Kennebunk    Depot,   five  miles  further,   is  situated 
about  2  miles  from  the  village. 

Saco,  38  miles  from  Portsmouth,  and  13  from  Port- 
land is  a  port  of  entry,  situated  on  the  northeast  side  of 
Saco  river,  6  miles  from  the  ocean.  Here  is  a  fall  in  the 
river  of  42  feet,  creating  a  great  water  power,  and  pre- 
senting an  interesting  and  beautiful  view.  There 
are  numerous  mills  at  this  place  and  many  hand- 
some dwellings.  Immediately  below  the  falls  is  a  fine 
basin  where  vessels  take  in  their  cargoes.  On  the  shore 
of  the  riv«r  below  the  village,  there  is  a  fine  beach,  4 
miles  long,  within  sight  of  the  ocean,  which  aflfords  a 
pleasant  drive  in  warm  weather. 

From  Saco  to  Portland,  a  distance  of  13  miles,  the 
railroad  passes  over  a  level  section  of  country,  in  part 
covered  with  a  small  growth  of  trees,  and  some  meadow 
lands.  On  approaching  Portland,  the  railroad  extends 
over  a  bridge  of  considerable  length,  extending  across 
an  arm  of  the  sea  which  in  part  forms  the  peninsula  on 
which  the  city  stands.  The  depot  is  about  one  mile  from 
the  centre  of  the  town,  passengers  being  usually  carried 
to  the  hotels  in  carriages. 

The  City  of  Portland,  is  very  advantageously  situa- 
ted on  a  peninsula  at  the  western  extremity  of  Casco 
bay.  It  is  distant  105  miles  from  Boston  j  50  from  Au- 
gusta, the  capital  of  the  State,  and  545  from  Washington. 
The  city  presents  a  beautiful  appearance  from  the  sea. 
and  the  islands  in  the  bay,  as  it  rises  like  an  amphithea- 
tre between  two  hills.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  and 
handsomely  built,  and  has  some  fine  public  edifices. 


4 


3  the  passen- 
latter,  which 
of  39  miles. 
'  a  few  miles 

is  situated 

from  Port- 
2ast  side  of 
1  fall  in  the 
r,  and  pre- 
There 
any    hand- 
Is  is  a  fine 
1  the  shore 
i  beach,  4 
1  affords  a 

miles,  the 
Y,  in  part 
e  meadow 
i  extends 
ng  across 
insula  on 
mile  from 
y  carried 

5ly  situa- 
of  Casco 
iom  Au- 
shington. 
the  sea. 
phithea- 
ut,  and 
edifices, 


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1  . 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


321 


among  which  are  a  spacious  city  hall,  a  court  house  and 
jail,  and  16  churchesj  a  custom-house,  6  banks,  a  theatre, 
and  an  athenffium,  containing  a  library  of  4  or  5,000 
volumes.  On  an  eminence  called  Mount  Joy,  on  which 
Fort  Sumner  formerly  stood,  there  is  an  observatory  82 
feet  in  height,  being  elevated  226  feet  above  the  ocean, 
commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  harbor,  and  the  adjacent 
country.  Casco  bay  is  seen  lying  to  the  east,  studded 
with  islands  and  rocky  islets,  said  to  amount  to  365  in 
number, — on  the  north  is  a  body  of  water  called  Back 
Cove, — the  city  is  immediately  on  the  south-west,  and 
presents  a  splendid  appearance  in  connection  with  the 
harbor  and  shipping, — Cape  Elizabeth  lies  on  the  south, 
3  miles  distant,  where  is  located  Cape  Cottage,  a  much 
frequented  public  house  and  delightful  place  of  resort 
during  warm  weather, — Fort  Preble  stands  two  miles 
southeast  and  commands  the  ship  channel  in  connec- 
tion with  Fort  Scammel,  situated  on  an  island.  Beyond 
it  lies  the  broad  Atlantic  ocean,  where  during  the 
fall  months  of  September  and  October,  numerous  small 
vessels  are  seen  engaged  in  taking  mackerel.  Mount 
IVashington,  the  highest  peak  of  the  White  Hills  of 
New-Hampshire,  distant  90  miles,  may  be  seen  on  a 
clear  day  by  looking  through  the  glass  here  used  in  the 
observatory,  which  is  a  large  and  excellent  instrument  of 
the  kind.  Few  places  exceed  Portland  in  point  of  loca- 
tion, having  an  extensive  back  country.  Its  tradeis  large 
and  important ;  the  principal  articles  of  export  are  lum- 
ber, fish  and  country  produce.  The  trade  with  the  West 
Indies  is  very  great,  also  with  Boston  and  New- York,  and 
southern  ports. 

The  Oxford  Canal  which  extends  to  Sebago  pond,  20 
miles  northwest,  afi'ords  50  miles  of  inland  navigation. 
An  important  road  also  diverges  in  the  same  direction, 


3<   i 


)    i 


322 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


which  enters  New-Hampshire  and  extends  across  into 
Vermont.  Over  this  road  stages  run  three  times  a  week 
to  the  White  Mountains,  distant  92  miles,  connecting 
with  lines  of  travel  to  Concord,  and  Burlington,  Ver- 
mont. 

The  principal  Hotels  in  Portland  are  the  American 
House,  Congress-street ;  Casco  Temperance  House,  Mid- 
dle-street; Elm  Tavern,  Federal-street;  United  States 
Hotel,  corner  Congress  and  Federal-streets;  besides  many 
others  of  lesh  note  in  different  parts  of  the  ci  ty. 

Lines  of  Travkl  from  Portland. 
Stages  connecting  with  the  railroad  cars  from  Boston, 
run  twice  daily  from  Portland  to  Augusta  via  Brunswick; 
thence  daily  to  Bangor,  Ellsworth  and  Eastport. 

A  tri-weekly  line  of  stages  run  from  Portland  to  Au- 
gusta, via  Lisbon  and  Winlhrop — distance  (50  miles.  On 
the  opposite  days  a  stage  runs  through,  via  Gray,  Lewis- 
ton  and  Winthrop, — intersecting  with  the  Farmington  and 
Buckfield  stages. 

A  daily  line  of  stages  run  from  Portland  to  Bath,  via 
Brunswick, — thence  on  the  shore  road  to  Ellsworth  and 
Eastport, — intersecting  at  Ellsworth  the  stages  from  Ban- 
gor. 

Tri-weekly  stages  run  from 

Portland  to  Paris,  40  miles  ; 

Waterford,  40  miles  ; 
Dover,  N.  H.,  via  Alfred,  56  miles; 
White  Mountains,  92  miles. 
A  line  of  steamboats  run  from 
Portland  to  Boston,  105  miles; 
Hallowell,  61  miles; 
Bangor,  140  miles. 


II 


(( 


(( 


EASTERN    TOUB. 


323 

""'WW- 


Ver. 


Stage  Route  from  Portland  to  Bangor,  via  Augusta. 

MILES. 

ToNorth  Yarmouth,  ............ .....  12 

"  Brunswick, 14  26 

"  Boardinham, 10  36 

•'  Richmond, 11  47 

"  Gardiner,    7  54 

**  August  A, 6  60 

"  Vassalboro, 12  72 

"  China, 9  81 

"  Unity, 14  95 

''  Dixmont, 12  107 

'«  West  Hamden, 11  118 

"  Bangor, 11  129 

Fare  through  $5.50 — Usual  time  20  hours. 

Stages  run  twice  daily  from  Portland  to  Augusta,  via 

Brunswick — connecting   with  railroad  cars  at  Portland. 

From  Augusta   stages  run  to  Bangor  and  other  places. 

Stages  twice  a  week  leave  Augusta  for  Quebec,  running 

over  the  Kennebec  road,  via  Norridgewock. 

Stage  Route  from  Portland  to  Eastport. 

MILES. 

Falmouth, 7 

North  Yarmouth, 5    12 

Freeport, 6  18 

Brunswick, 9  27 

Bath,  (Kennebec  river,) 7  34 

WiSCASSET, 15  49 

WalJoboro', 18  67 

Warren, 9  76 

Thomaston, 4  80 

Camden, 11  91 

Belfast, 18  109 

Castine,  (across  Penobscot  bay,) 9  118 

Bluehill, 10  128 

Ellsworth, 14  142 

Franklin, 12  154 

Cherryfield,  20  174 

Columbia, 12  186 

Machias, 15  201 

Whiting, 14  215 

Eastpokt, 15  230 


1' 


Pmaasrmaem 


as 


321 


KASTERN    TOUR. 


Tliis  route  extends  along  near  the  coast  of  Maine, 
which  is  deeply  indented  witli  numerous  inlets  or  bays, 
filled  with  islands  and  rocky  islets,  often  presenting  a 
truly  grand  and  romantic  appearance. 

EASTi'ORT,  lies  on  an  island  in  Passamaquoddy  bay, 
into  which  empties  the  St.  Croix  River,  forming  the 
eastern  boundary  of  the  United  Slates. 

Augusta,  GO  miles  northeast  of  Portland,  is  situated 
oa  both  sides  of  the  Kennebec  river,  43  miles  from  the 
ocean,  at  the  head  of  sloop  navigation.  This  is  the  capi- 
tal of  the  State  of  M^'ne,  and  is  a  beautiful  place.  The 
State  House  is  constructed  of  white  granite,  and  stands 
on  a  commanding  eminence,  half  a  mile  south  of  thcviU 
lage.  The  population  in  1840,  was  5,314.  It  is  regular- 
ly laid  out,  the  ground  rising  on  each  side  of  the  river, 
and  a  fine  bridge  extends  across  the  Kennebec,  520  feet 
long,  connecting  the  two  parts  of  the  town- 

The  principal  hotels  are  the  Augusta  House,  and  the 
Mansion  House;  there  are  also  several  others  of  less  note. 

Below  Augusta,  on  the  Kennebec  river,  are  Hallc- 
WELL,  Gaudiner  and  Bath,  at  all  of  which  steamboats 
stop  on  their  trips  to  and  from  Portland. 

The  City  of  Bangor,  129  miles  from  Portland  in  a 
northeast  direction,  and  distant  215  miles  from  Boston, 
is  the  easternmost  place  of  note  in  the  United  States. 
It  is  situated  on  the  westside  of  Penobscot  river,  60  miles 
from  the  ocean,  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation. 
The  tide  here  rises  17  feet,  and  is  of  itself  sufficient  to 
float  vessels  of  a  large  class.  The  principfil  article  of 
trade  is  lumber,  which  comes  down  the  river  in  immense 
quantities,  from  a  fertile  region  of  country. 

The  city  occupies  a  pleasant  and  commanding  situa- 
tion. The  buildings  for  the  most  part  are  not  only  neat, 
but  many  of  them    elegant.    Steamboats  ply  regularly 


ff  Maine, 

or  bays. 

souting  n 

(ddy  bay, 
mins;  the 

1  sitaated 
from  the 
J  the  capi- 
ice.  The 
nd  stands 
of  thcvil- 
s  regulur- 
the  river. 
520  feet 

and  the 
less  note, 
e  Hai.lc- 
eamboats 

and  in  a 
Boston, 
d  State.>. 
60  miles 
ivigation. 
Ilicient  to 
irticle  of 
immense 

ng  situa- 
jnly  neat, 
regularly 


"'f'-.'^ '**■  -itt;^     ,M-iniiH:A-^';v'..a!A,v_tu..^ 


. 


EASTERN    TOUtt. 


325 


betueen  Bangor  and  Portland,  and  Boston,  for  about  eight 
months  in  the  year,  when  the  river  is  free  from  ice.  The 
population  in  1840,  was  8,627,  and  is  rapidly  increasing. 
The  principal  hotels  are  the  Bangor  House,  the  Franklin 
House,  and  the  Penobscot  Exchange. 

Below  Bangor  on  the  Penobscot  river,  are  Frankfort, 
BucKSFORT,  Belfast  and  Thoaiaston;  at  all  of  which 
steamboats  land  and  receive  passengers  on  their  trips  to 
and  from  Portland  and  Boston. 

On  leaving  Portland  lor  Boston,  the  traveller  has  the 
choice  of  three  lines  of  travel — by  steamboat,  or  by  rail- 
road through  Portsmouth,  or  over  the  upper  railroad 
through  Dover.  The  latter,  although  a  few  miles  further, 
is  usually  run  over  in  the  same  time,  and  passes  through 
an  interesting  section  of  country. 


LINES  OF  TRAVEL  BETWEEN  BOSTON  AND 

NEW- YORK. 

There  are  three  great  lines  of  travel  between  the  above 
places.  The  most  direct  is  by  way  of  Providence,  pass- 
ing over  the  Boston  and  Providence  Railroad,  42  miles 
in  length.  From  thence  passengers  are  conveyed  by  rail- 
voad  to  Stouington,  Conn.,  and  take  a  5-tcaraboat  for  New- 
York,  or  take  a  steamboat  at  Providence,  stepping  at 
Newport  to  land  an  1  receive  passengers.  Either  of  the 
above  routes  are  desirable  and  speedy  modes  of  convey- 
ance. 

At  IMansfield,  21  miles  from  Boston,  a  branch  railroad 
diverges  south  to  Taunton,  11  miles — from  thence  the 
New-Bedford  and  Taunton  Railroad,  extends  to  New- 
Bedford,  a  further  distance  of  20  miles. 

The  City  of  Providence,  tl'.e  scmi-capiuil  of  Rhode- 
island,  in  connection  with  Newport,  is  situated  at  the 
iead  of  Narraganset  bay,  on  the  v/est  side  of  Sekonk  oc 

w 


326 


BASTEUPr     TOUR. 


M    1 


Providence  river,  35  miles  from  the  ocean,  and  182  miles- 
from  the  city  of  New-York.  This  is  the  second  city  in 
New^-England  in  point  of  popiUation  iiud  trade.  Vessels  of 
DOO  tons  come  up  to  its  wharves,  and  it  has  long  been 
successfully  engaged  in  a  trade  with  the  West  Indies  and 
China.  Packets  also  run  direct  to  most  of  the  ports  in- 
the  Union.  The  population  in  1S40,  was,  23,171,  many 
of  whom  are  engaged  in  commerce  and  manufacturing' 
pursuits.  Among  the  public  buildings  are  the  State 
House,  several  churches,  which  for  specimens  of  archi- 
tecture may  be  ranked  among  the  finest  buildings  of  the 
kind  in  the  country;  th"  Arcade,  extending  between  two 
streets,  with  a  line  Doric  porti<;o  on  each,  and  Brown 
University,  occupying  a  commanding  situation,  has  two 
large  brick  edifices,  4  stories  high;  this  is  an  old  estab- 
lished institution  of  learning,  having  been  originally  es- 
tablished in  Warren,  in  1761,  and  was  removed  to  Provi- 
dence in  1770  ;  it  has  a  president,  and  8  professors  and 
instructors.  Here  is  a  State  Prison,  lately  erected,  and  » 
new  Theatre  ;  the  Athenccum,  founded  in  19,36,  has  a 
handsome  granite  building,  and  a  library  of  7,000  volumes. 
It  has  21  banks,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  eightmillions 
of  dollars,  and  3  insurance  companies.  The  Blackstone 
Ca/iaZ,  extending  from  Worcester,  Mass.,  terminates  here; 
also,  tlie  Boston  and  Providence  Railroad,  which  consti- 
tutes one  of  the  great  links  in  the  line  of  travel  between, 
the  cities  of  New-York  and  Boston;  the  latter  place  be- 
ing 42  miles  distant. 

Providence  was  settled  in  163G,  by  Roger  Williams,, 
and  others,  who  fled  from  jNIassachusetts  on  account  of 
their  religious  opinions,  and  who  early  adopted  in  this 
place  the  principles  of  universal  toleration. 

Newport,  situated  on  the  southwest  side  of  Rhode 
Island,  5  miles  from  the  ocean,  has  one  of  the  finest  bar- 


er 
SA 


N^ 


■.L 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


327 


!)ors  in  the  world,   being  safe,  and  easily  accessible  by 
ships  of  the  largest  class.     The  harbor,    which  is  of  a 
aemi-circular  form,  spreads  westward  before  the  town  ; 
it  is  defended  by   Fort  Adams,    situated   on     Coat  Is- 
land, 1  ,'j  miles  below  the  town,    which  is  garrisoned  hy 
several  companies  of  U.  S.  troops.     Fort  Greene,   built 
during  the  late  war,  has  been  suffered  to  go  to  decayj  it 
was  a  i  the  northern  extremity  of  the  town.     This  place 
appears  to  great  advantage  as  it  is  approached  from  the 
water,  the  ground  rising  in  a  beautiful  and  gentle  accli- 
vity, shows  the  buildings  to  much  advantage.     The  plea- 
santness of  its  situation,  and  the  healthfulness  of  its  cli- 
mate, its  fine  views,  and  its  cooling  ocean  breezes,  have 
rendered  it  a  favorite  summer  resort  to  the  most  fashion- 
.ible  class  of  inhabitants  of  the  northern  and  southern 
states.     It  contains  a  state  house,  market  house,  theatre, 
;i  public  library  containing  over  8,000  volumes,  3  acade- 
mies, (5  banks,  and  12  churches  of  different   denomina- 
tions ;  1,200  dwelling  houses,  and  8  or  9,000  inhabitants. 
The  accommodations  for  visitors  are  ample  and  of  a  good 
character,  aff'ording  every  inducement  to  the  invalid  and 
seeker  of  pleasuie  to  make  this  place  a  summer  resi- 
dence. 

Stonington,  80  miles  from  Boston,  and  135  miles 
from  New- York,  by  water,  is  situated  on  a  point  of  land 
which  projects  half  a  mile  into  the  east  end  of  Long- Is- 
land Sound,  and  has  a  good  harbor,  protected  by  a  break- 
water, constructed  by  the  United  States  Government.  It 
contains  about  1,000  inhabitants,  many  of  whom  are  en- 
gaged in  navigation  ;  here  being  owned  several  vessels 
engaged  in  the  whaling  business.  The  Providence  and 
Stonington  Railroad  extends  from  this  place  to  Provi- 
dence, a  distance  of  47  miles.  A  line  of  steamboats  of 
the  first  class  run  daily  between  this  place  and  the  city  of 
New- York. 


* 


32S 


EASTERN    TOUn. 


WOIICESTKR    ANn    NoRWICII    TOUTK. 

The  route  between  Boston  and  New-York,  via  Wor- 
cester and  Norwich,  Conn.,  is  a  favorite  line  of  travel. 
The  curs  pass  over  110  miles  of  railroad  through  an  in- 
teresting section  of  country,  until  they  reach  Allen's 
Point,  7  miles  below  Norwich.  Here  there  is  a  sufti- 
cient  depth  of  water  for  the  steamers  at  all  tides,  which 
run  to  the  city  of  New- York.  For  a  description  of  Wor- 
cester see  page  2S7. 

Norwich  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  oa 
Thames  river,  13  miles  north  of  New-London,  and  dis- 
tant 103  miles  from  Boston.  The  site  is  singularly  ro- 
mantic, on  the  steep  declivity  of  a  high  hill,  which  causes 
the  streets  to  rise  above  each  other  like  terraces  The 
city  contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  a  town-hall,  4  bank?. 
2  insurance  companies,  7  churches,  several  public  houses. 
•SO  or  1)0  stores,  and  4,200  inhabitants. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  this  place  are  several  in- 
teresting localities.  At  the  junction  of  the  Yantic  witli 
the  Shetucket  rivers,  which  united  take  the  name  of 
Thames,  is  situated  a  romantic  cataract,  affording  a  fine 
site  for  mills  and  manufactories.  The  village  around  it 
is  called  Yanticville.  Fro>u  a  high  projecting  rock, 
which  overhang  these  falls,  it  is  said  the  Mohegan  In- 
dians formerly  plunged  to  destruction,  rather  than  fall 
into  the  hands  of  the  Narragansetts  who  w'cro  pursuing 
them.  In  the  rocks  which  form  tiie  bed  of  the  stream  at 
this  point,  Avill  often  be  found  circular  perpendicular 
holes,  five  or  six  feet  aecp,  evidently  formed  by  stone.s 
whirled  round  within  them  by  the  force  of  the  water. 
These  holes  are  so  regular  as  to  appear  like  a  work  oi" 
art,  and  are  a  curiosity. 

Nf.w-London,  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  theThamer, 
river,  3  miles  from  its  entrance  into  Long-Island  Scuni, 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


320 


tmd  is  distant  120  miles  from  the  city  of  New- York. 
This  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  United  States  ;  it 
hns  a  depth  of  30  feet,  and  is  spacious  and  safe.  Fort 
Trumbull,  situated  on  a  projecting  point,  about  one  mile 
below  the  city,  defends  the  approach  to  the  town  together 
with  1  ort  Griswola,  on  the  east  side  of  the  rivt.. 

The  county  courts  are  alternately  held  at  this  place  and 
Norwich.  It  contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  5  churches, 
;3  banks,  2  insurance  companies,  40  stores,  and  several 
public  houses.  In  the  rear  of  the  city  the  ground  rises 
to  a  considerable  height,  and  from  its  summit  presents  a 
fine  view  of  the  harbor  and  the  surrounding  country. 

This  is  the  only  place  at  which  the  steamboat  slops,, 
running  in  connection  with  the  railroad  cars  on  the  Nor- 
wich and  Worcester  llailroad  route  ;  total  distance  from 
lioston  to  New-York,  236  miles. 

Springfiem)  and  Has.xFOiid  Houtk. 

This  is  destined  to  be  a  favorite  line  of  travel  between 
the  cities  of  Boston  and  New- York,  passing  through  the 
most  interesting  portions  ot  the  otates  ofMussachusettsand 
Connecticut.  The  route  to  Springfield  is  described  in  a 
previous  part  olthis  volume.  At  the  distance  of  98  miles 
from  Boston  by  railroad,  the  line  of  travel  divuges  down 
the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Connecticut.  25  miles  to  the 
city  of  Hartford.  A  railroad  is  now  in  the  course  of 
construction  between  Springfield  and  Hartford,  which 
when  finished  will  furnish  a  line  of  railroads  from  Bos- 
ton to  New-Ha\^n,  a  distance  of  IGl  miles,  thence  by 
steamboat  to  the  city  of  New-York,  a  total  distance  of 
241  miles  by  this  route.  For  a  description  of  Springfield, 
pee  page  2vS4. 

The  City  of  Hartford,  the  semi-capital  of  the  state, 
is  handsom^^ly  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Connec- 
ticut river,  50  miles  from  its  mouth,  at  the  head  of  sloop 


^!    !i 


2$0 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


navigation.    The  compact  part  of  the  city  is  more  than  a 
mile  in  length,  and  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide,  and  con- 
tained in  1810,  a  population  of  9,468,     Among  the  pub- 
lic buildings  and   institutions,  is  the   state  house,  a  spa- 
cious and  handsome  edifice  ;  the  city  hall  is  a  large  buihl- 
ing  of  the  Doric  order  of  architecture  ;  Washington  Col- 
lege is  situated  on  elevated  ground  in  the  western  part  o( 
the  city,  where  are  two  large  edifices  ;  it  was  founded  in 
1824,  and  has  a  president,  and  8  other   professors  or  in- 
structors.    It  is  under  the  direction  of  the  Episcopalians, 
and  is  in  a  nourishing  condition.     The  commencement  is 
on  the  first  Thursday  of  August.     The   American  Asy- 
lum, for  the  instruction   of  the  deaf  and  dumb,  was  the 
first  establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States.     The 
Retreat  for  the  Insane,  is  situated  on  a  commanding  emi. 
nence  south  of  the  state-house,  and  was  opened  in  1821. 
The  Atheneum,  is  a  new   edifice  of  the  Gothic  order  ol 
architecture,  and  accommodates   the  Young  Men's  Insti- 
tute, Historical  Society,  and  Gallery  of  Paintings.     There 
are  in  the  city  12  churches  ;  5  banks,  and  a  bank  for  sav- 
ings ;  3  fire  and  marine  insurance  companies  ;  an  arsenal-, 
a  museum,  and  2  markets.     The  principal  hotels  are  the 
City  Hotel,  Main-street,  and   the   United  States  Hotel, 
State-street,  besides  several  others  of  less  note. 

Hartford  is  well  situated,  and  is  no  doubt  destined  to  in- 
crease in  commercial  importance  ;  Connecticut  river  has 
been  made  navigable  for  boats  220  miles,  to  the  mouth  of 
Wells  river,  at  Newbury,  Vt.;  opening^n  extensive  and 
rich  country  to  it  on  the  north,  while  it  enjoys  facilities 
of  sloop  navigation  into  Long  Island  Sound,  and  the 
railroad  in  progress  of  construction  to  Springfield,  when 
finished,  will  much  benefit  this  place  by  connecting  it 
with  the  great  line  of  travel  east  and  west.  Steamboats 
of  a  small  class  can  navigate  the  river  for  many  miles 
above  Hartford. 


EASTERN    TOUR. 


331 


The  City  of  Nkw  Haven,  the  semi-capital  of  Connecti. 
cut  with  Hartford,  distant  38  miles  by  railroad  route, 
lies  round  the  head  of  a  bay  which  sets  up  four  miles 
from  Long  Island  Sound.  The  city  is  situated  on  a  beau- 
tiful  plain,  with  a  slight  inclination  toward  the  water, 
and  skirted  in  other  directions  by  an  amphitheatre  of  hills, 
two  of  which  consist  of  bold  rocky  eminences,  called 
East  and  West  Rock,  which  presents  fi'onts  nearly  per- 
pendicular from  300  to  370  feet  high.  Two  small  rivers 
discharge  their  waters  into  the  bay  on  either  side  of  tho 
town  ;  West  river  on  the  west,  and  Quinnipac  on  the  east. 
The  city  extends  about  3  miles  from  e.  to  w.  and  2 
from  s.  to  N.  It  is  laid  out  with  great  regularity,  and 
consists  of  2  parts,  the  old  town  and  the  new  township. 

The  harbor  of  New- Haven  is  safe  b'lit  shallow,  and 
gradually  filling  up  with  mud.  It  has  about  7  feel  of 
water  on  the  bar  at  low  tide,  and  the  common  tides  rise 
to  6  feet,  and  the  spring  tides  about  7  or  8  leet.  Long 
wharf  is  3,943  feet  in  length,  the  longest  in  the  United 
States.  At  present  its  foreign  trade  is  chiefly  with  the 
West  Indies.  The  tonnage  of  the  port  in  1840,  was  II,- 
500.  A  line  of  steamboats  connects  this  city  with  New- 
York,  and  also  several  lines  of  packets.  The  Farming- 
ton  canal  connects  this  place  with  Northampton,  Mass. 
and  Connecticut  river  near  it ;  and  a  railroad  connects  it 
Avith  Hartford.  The  town  contains  20  houses  of  public 
worship,  viz:  9  Congregational,  3  Methodis-t,  3  Episco- 
pal. 1  Baptist,  1  Catholic,  2  colored  Meihodi&t,  1  color- 
ed Congregational.  There  are  also  a  custom  house,  an 
almshouse,  a  jail,  a  museum,  3  banks,  and  a  saving  in- 
stitution; various  benevolent  societies,  the  Young  Men'> 
Institute,  and  an  institution  for  popular  lectures,  with 
one  of  the  best  selected  libraries  in  the  Union.  The 
Slate  Hospital,  founded  in  1832,  ishalf  a  mile  southwest 


i^f 


332 


KASTEUJV    TOt/U. 


I 

III  i 


from  the  centre  of  the  city,  an;l  has  a  fine  edifice  with 
a  colonnade,  lint  the  must  iinport-ant  puldie  institution 
in  the  city  is  Yale  Collei^c,  one  of  the  oldest  und  most 
extensive  institutions  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States. 
Without  lara[e  fumls,  it  has  uccomplislicd  creat  things. 
It  wps  founded  in  1701,  originally  at  Killingworlh.  It 
was  removed  to  Saybrook  in  17U7,  and  to  ]Sew  Haven 
in  1717.  There  arc  4  college  halls,  100  feet  long  by  40 
wide,  4  stories  high,  containing  32  rooms  each  for  stu- 
dents ;  and  north  of  these  is  another  hall  devoted  to  the 
u.se  of  the  theological  students  ;  there  is  a  chapel,  in 
which  is  one  story  appropriated  to  religious  worship,  and 
one  to  the  college  library  ;  and  two  other  buildings,  called 
theAlhenoeum,  and  the  Lyceum,  appropriated  to  recita- 
tion and  lecture  rooms,  rooms  for  the  professors,  and  for 
the  libraries  of  the  literary  societies.  These  are  all  of 
brick  J  and  the  buildings  intermediate  between  the  college 
halls,  have  neat  cupolas  ;  one  of  which  is  after  the  model 
of  the  Temple  of  the  Winds,  fitted  up  for  the  use  of  a 
splendid  tek'>;^ope.  In  the  ve;vr  of  these  is  another  range 
of  buildings,  consisting  of  the  chemical  laboratory  ;  the 
commons  hall  in  the  second  story,  of  which  is  a  spacious 
apartment  devoted  to  the  most  splendid  mineralogical 
cabinet  in  the  United  States,  containing  more  than  16,000 
specimens,  many  of  them  rare  ;  and  a  stone  building 
stuccoed,  and  containing  a  splendid  collection  of  paintings 
by  the  late  Col.  Trumbull  and  others.  A  short  distance 
from  tliese  are  the  buildings  devoted  to  the  law  and  medical 
departments,  the  latter  of  which  has  an  anatomical  mu- 
seum anil  library.  Ynln  f'ldh'Hd  has  more  students, 
and  has  educated  more  men  than  any  other  college  in  the 
country.  In  1841,  the  oificers  were  30  in  number.  Of 
these,  besides  the  nresident,  17  were  professors,  and  the 
remainder  were  tutors  or  subordinate  olHi'iiHi  Ifl  (iro  con- 


II 


KASTKllN    TOUR. 


333 


m'clel  with  the  college  proper.  The  whole  number  of 
MuJtMils  of  all  descriptions  was  550.  Of  these  410  were 
underairyduatcs  ;  59  theological  students  j  31  law  ;  47 
i.ieJicul  ;  and  3  resident  pradutites.  The  whole  number 
of  t;!raduatcs  is  over  5,000,  of  whom  nearly  1,400  were 
ministers.  The  number  of  volumes  in  the  various  libra- 
ries is  3.'J,000,  amonij  which  are  many  old  and  rare,  as 
well  as  many  splendid  modern  works.  The  commence- 
iucnt  is  on  the  third  Wednesday  of  August. 

.\'ew  Jfaven  was  first  settled  in  16IJS,  by  a  colony  un- 
der Theopl)iIus  Eaton,  the  lirs-t  governor,  and  John  Da- 
venport, the  first  minister,  whom  Cotton  Mather  de- 
nominated tl'.e  ''Moses  and  Aaron"  of  the  settlement. 
In  1()()5,  this  colony  was  united  by  a  royal  charter  to 
Conncc-tieat.  In  1784,  New  Haven  was  chartered  as  a 
city.  In  July,  1779,  the  city  was  invaded  and  plundered 
by  about  3,000  British  troops  from  New-York,  under 
Generals  Tryon  and  Garth,  after  a  feeble  opposition  on 
the  part  of  the  inhabitants. 


RAILROADS  IN  NEW-ENGLAND. 

Finished  OR  in  PnooREss     f  Construction— 1S43. 


Name. 


!;H 


UanRor  iind  Orono, 

Portluncl,  Saco,  ■V.  Ports- 
mouth,   

Kaslcrn, 

Marblehead  Bnincli, 

Kostori  and  Lowell,  

Nashua  and  J-owel!, 

(Concord, 

Koslon  and  Maine, 

Great  Falls  Branch, 

Hoston  and  Providence,  •  • 

Dedham  Branch, 

Taunton  Braach, 

New  Bedford.. ndTaiiulon 
Trovidence  &  Stoninyton, 

(iuincy,  

Fitchburg,* 

Boston  and  Worcester,  •  • 
Norwich  and  Worcester,- 
Extension,  do. 

Western, 

West-Stockbridgc, 

l^erkshiro, 

Ilousatonic,    

New-Haven  &  Hartford, • 
Hartford  and  Spring.'ield* 


FllOM. 


To. 


Hangor, 

T'ortlarid,    •• 
Port.siiioiilh,    ••• 
Eastern  Kailioisd 

Boston,    

lioweli,    

Nashua,  

Wilmington, 

B.  it.M.  Kailroad 

Boston, 

B.  Ic  H.  Bailroad, 

Mansfield, 

Taunton, 

I'rovidcnce, 

Quiucy,    

Boston,    

lU)ston,    •••• 
VVorce?ter,  • 

Norwich, 

Worcester, 

N.  Y.  Stale  f-inc, 
W.  Stockbridiit;,- 
f'onn.  State  Line, 
Now  Haven, 
llarlfoid,  •  •• 


Orono, 

jPortsnioutli," 

iHoston, 

Marblchead,'- 

[Lowell,   

Nashua, 

(Jqncord, 

S.  Berwick,  AL 
(i.  F.  Villii;!e,- 
I'rovidonce,  •  • 

Dedhaiu, 

T;iunton. 

New-I^edford,- 
Stoningtori,'  •• 
Neponset  river 

Filchl)urg, 

Worcester,  •  •• 
Norwich,  •  ••• 
Allen's  Point,- 
N.  Y.  S.  Line,  ■ 
W.Slof.lvbri'^e 
Conn.  St.  Line, 

j  Hartford, 

jSpringlield,-  •• 


Total  miles,' 


Mile;*. 

II 

hi 

:i 

•Jli 

in 

.1.5 

» 

■12 
■y 

11 
•Jt) 
47 

:i 
.'j4 
44 
.M> 

7 
117 

75 
3S 
•33 

8S7 


In  progress  of  construction. 


HOTELS. 


10 

3-i 


Th 
tion  &■ 
the  W04  A . 


'''  '  list  of  HoTKr.s  is  addeil  for  the  in;  ima 
-i,  having  been  omitted  in  the  body  oi' 


Principal  Hotkls  in  Syracuse. 

(See  description  of  Syracuse,  page  MO.) 

American   Temperance   House,   Farmers'  Exchange 
Franklin  House,  Mansion  House,  Syracuse  House. 

PuiNClPAL  HOTEI-S  IN  AUBURN. 

(See  description  of  Auburn,  page  131.) 
American  Hotel,  Auburn  House,  Western  Exchange 

Principal  Hotkls  in  Geneva. 

(See  description  of  Geneva,  page  161.) 

Franklin  House,  Geneva  Hotel,  Railroad  House,  Tem- 
perance House. 

Principal  Hotels  in  Rochester. 

(See  description  of  Rochester,  page  166.) 

American  Hotel,  Clinton  Hotel,  Eagle  Hotel,  Ex- 
change Hotel,  Mansion  House,  Morton  House,  North 
American  Hotel,  Rochester  House,  United  States  Hi  tel. 

Principal  Hotels  in  Lockport. 

(See  description  of  Lockport,  page  172.) 

American  Temperance  House,  Eagle  Tavern  Lock- 
port  House. 


oym. 


Photographic 

^Sciences 

Corporation 


*     ^   .^i^'i^ 


33  WIST  MAIN  STMIT 

WHSTIR.N.Y.  USM 

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KAII.KOAD,  CANAL  PACKET,  AND  STEAM- 
BOAT AKKANGEMENTS— 1844. 


1 1 

t( 

( 

u 


<( 
(( 


6i 

A  M.   and  2\  P.  M. 
P.  M.  J) 


(C 


A.M.    and  41  P.  M. 

10  j       " 


7 


A.M. 


HAILROAD  ROUTES, 
VEEN  ALBANY,    TROY,  AND  BUFFALO. 

TWO    REGULAR    MAIL     TRAINS    DAILY. 

Going  Wctt. 

Leave  Albany,  and  Troy, 7\  A.  M.  and  7^  P.  M. 

Pass  Schenectady, 0        "  9  * 

Utica, 21  P.M.   and  2^  A.M. 

Syracuse, G\ 

Auburn, 8 1 

Rochester,   8 

Arrive  at  Buffalo, 2 

Going  East 

Leave  Buffalo, 8 

Pass  Roche  ter, 8        " 

Auburn, 2}  P.M. 

Syracuse, . . .  = 11      " 

Utica, S^  P.M. 

Schenectady, 2    A.M. 

Arrive  at  Albany,  and  Troy,-  4        " 

Accommodation   Train. 

^  West. 

Leave  Albany,  (Sunday  ex.^  1    P.  M. 

Pass  Schenectady 3        " 

Arrive  at  Utica, 8       "     stops  over  night 

Leave  Utica, 7^  A.  M 

Pass  Syracuse, 11 

"     Auburn, 2 

Arrive  at  Rochester, 8 

Leave  Rochester, 8 

Arrive  at  Buffalo, 2 

East. 

Leave  Buffalo,  (Sundays  excepted,) 8     A.  M. 

Pass  Rochester, 24  PM. 

Auburn, " 


31  P.  M. 


u 

p.  M. 

A.  M. 
P.M. 


stops  over  night. 


fj 


*<ii<(f<*i*iti* 


nAlLIiOADS 


l>     • 


"M 


Puss  Syracuse, ll     P.M. 

'«    Ulica, 4     A.  M. 

"     Schenectady, 9        " 

Arrive  at  Albany,  and  Troy, U        " 

Suitable  cars  for  emigrants  and  their  luggage  are  run 
with  the  trains,  who  are  carried  by  special  contract^ 
made  at  Albany,  Troy,  or  59  Cor tlandt- street,  New- 
York,  without  extra  charge  for  baggage. 

Table  of  Distances,  fake,  and  u.sual  time  in  ooino 
FROM  Albany  to  Buffalo,  by  Railroad  Route. 


places. 

MILES. 

FARE. 

TIME. 

Albany  to  Schenectady,. .  . 

Schenectady  to  Utica, 

Utica  to  Syracuse, 

Syracuse  to  Auburn, 

Auburn  to  Rochester,  .... 
Rochester  to  Buffalo, 

16 
77 
53 
26 
79 
74 

$0   50 

2  50 

2  00 

1  00 

3  00 

2  50 

1     hour. 
6        " 
34      '♦ 

H      " 
6        " 

6        '• 

Total  miles, 

325 

$11  50 

24  hours. 

N.  B. — The  distance  by  railroad  from  Troy  to  Buffa- 
lo is  330  miles;  the  fare  and  time  being  the  same  as  from 
Albany.  The  usual  running  time  from  the  Hudson  to 
Buffalo  is  21  hours,  there  being  about  3  hours  consu- 
med in  stopping  on  the  route. 


Railroad   and  Stbamboat  Rout«  from  Albany 
Niagara  Falls,  via  Oswego  Canal. 


TO 


places. 

milks. 

FARE. 

time. 

Albany  to  Syracuse, 

Syracuse  to  Oswego, 

Oswego  to  Niagara  Falls,. 

146 

38 

149 

$5  00 
1  50 
3  50 

10  hours. 
7     " 
15      <' 

Total  miles, 

333 

$10  00 

32  hours. 

N.  B. — By  the  present  arrangement,  the  American 
steamboats  running  from  Oswego  to  Lewiston,  touch 
at  Toronto,  Canada,  on  going  up  the  lake,  which  takes 
About  six  hours  longer  to  perifonn  the  trip 


CAN  A  I,    PACKKT    BOATS. 


CANAL  PACKET   BOATS— 1844 


>'assaok  Boats  runnin<;  hktween  SciiENxcTADY  and 
Utica,  via    Erik  Canal. 
Packet  Boat  Herkimer,       Capt.  Hatter. 


it 

(( 

>f 

<< 

•• 

<( 

(( 

(( 

(( 
n 


time 


Dikeman. 
lirown, 
Barney. 
H.  Rankin. 
]6   hours- 


Fare, 


Huron, 
Montgomery, 
Saratoga, 
Schenectady, 
Distance  80  miles.      Usual 
$1.75,  includins;  meals. 

One  of  Ihenbove  boats  leaves  Schenectady,  during  the 
season  of  navigation,  at  S  o'clock  A.  M.,  and  8  o'clock 
P.  M.  ;  leaving  Utica  at  8  A.  M.,  and  7  P.  M.,— thus 
forming  two  daily  lines,  oast  and  west. 

The  above  boats  connect  at  Schenectady  with  Rail- 
road Cars  and  Stages,  running  to  Albany,  Troy,  and 
Saratoga  Springs, — at  Utica  with  Canal  Packets  and 
Railroad  Cars  running  west,  and  with  Stages  running 
to  Bingh«mton  on  the  south,  and  Walertown,  Sackett's 
Harbor,  and  Ogdensburgh  on  the  north  ;  in  addition  to 
other  Stage  routes  to  various  places. 

Passage  Boats  running  between  Utica  and  Syra- 
cuse,  VIA  Erie  Canal. 

Packet  Boat  Oneida,        Capt.  W.  H.  Greene. 
*'  "     Onondaga,      "      A.  Myers. 

f'  *'     Syracuse,         "       Wm.  Tingley. 

"  "     Utica,  "       Charles  Brandt, 

Distance  61  miles.  Usual  time  12  hours.  Fare, 
$1.25,  including  meals. 

The  above  boats  form  two  daily  lines,  leaving  Utica 
and  Syracuse,  during  the  season  of  navigation,  at  6  o'. 
clock  A.  M.,  and 4  o'clock  P.  M.  ;  connecting  with  other 
Canal  Packet  lines  at  Syracuse. 

Passage  Boats  running  between  Syracuse  and  Os- 
wego, VIA    Oswego   Canal. 

Packet  Boat,  Rochester,  Capt.  Wm.  D.  Stewart 

"  "       Liberty,  '^     F.  Rood. 

The  above   boats  form  two  daily  lines,  leaving  both 
places  at  7^  A    M.  J  and  7  P.  M.;  connecting  with  Steam 
boats  on  Lake  Ontario 


CAN  AT.  PATKF.T   110AT«. 


I* 


PASSAOF.  BoAT-^   rU^VNINfr  nKTWFF.V    SVRA(l'SK    AND 

llo(iiFsTKR,  VIA    Erik  Canal. 


Packet  Hont  Albany, 
"     Hoston, 


a 
(I 
ft 


Capl.  J.  }\.  Colo. 
"     'I'.  Wheeler 


"     North  Amoricn, 
South  America, 


l< 


T 


T).  K.  Greene. 
J.  K.  Ved.ler. 
W.  II.  If.  Smith. 


)ronto, 

Distance  99  milfs,  rsiial  time  22  hours.  I'iire, 
$2.50,  inchulins:  menls. 

The  above  bouts  form  two  daily  lines,  leaving  Syra- 
cuse at  7  I  A.  ISI.  and  at  7  P.  M.  ;  leave  Ilochester  at  t> 
A.  M.  and  5  P.  M. 

Passage   Boat   iiunninc;   hktwhev   ^ToNTF.zlTMA   a\u 
(Ifneva,  via  Caytoa  and  Seneca  Canal. 

Packet  Boat  (lencva,  Capt.  Coinpson. 

Distance  21  miles.  L'sual  time  4^  hours.  Fare,  7.0 
cents. 

At  Geneva  this  boat  connect*!  \\h\\  stenmhoals  on  Ge- 
neva lake,  and  with  Railrotul  Cars;  atMonte/uma  with 
Canal  Packets,  muiiinj?  cast  and  west  on  the  Krie  canal 

Pa.ssace  Boats  nUNNixu    bltwekn    Ro(  iikster   and 
Dansville,  via  Genesee  Valley  Canal. 

Packet  Boat  Dansvill      Capt.  Brewster. 
'•  "     Perry,  "       N.  P.  Stone. 

Distance   52  miles.      Usu').l   time   13   hours. 
$l.S7l,  including  mrnls. 

The  above  boats  form  a  daily  line,  leaving  Rochester 
at  8  o'clock  A .  M. 


Fare, 


Passage    boats   running    between   Rochester    and 
Buffalo,  via    Erie  Canal. 

Packet  Boat  Cataract,         Capt.  A.  Van  Buskirk. 
"     Empire, 
"     Red  Rover, 
''     Rescue, 
''     Rochester. 
Distance   95  miles.      Tsual 
$2.00,  includins;  meals. 

The  above  boats  form  two  daily  linos,  leaving  Ro- 
chester at  8  A.  M.  and  7  P.  M.,  and  Butialo  at  9  A.  M. 
aiK  7  P.  M. 

'',**  Total  distance  by  caudi  route  from  Schenectady  to 
Bntl'a.(N  \h  F.rle  Canal,  .*^31  miles.  Usual  tiint-  7<» 
lioui>.     r>re,  $7.,')(  ,   iticlndintr  menls. 


u 

D. 

II 

Bromley, 

(( 

S. 

A. 

Cljrk 

(( 

c. 

H. 

ivlasou. 

(( 

.f. 

H. 

'"'.'ir  (■.•■•, ,. 

me 

19 

ho    ,           km 

«, 

«Tr.A  M  no  ATM. 


s'lKAMBo VIS  n.\   Tu::  cEMi,AT,  lakf:s  of 

WKsil'UN    NK^'-YuUlv. 

The  Sicnmbd.'it  Siin«'on  Dc  Witt,  Tapt  Wikox.  letivpi 
hlmcR  daily,  (Sumlny*  excepted,)  nt  7  o'cinc  v  A  M  , 
:in  1  Cnyuiza  Hridirc  at  3  o'clock,  V.  M.  '•unninv;  tlirough 
('iiyuizn  Inlvt',  u  distnnce  of -10  miles,  sti  ping  al  sevcnil 
1.1  idiiii's. 

This  btifit  runs  to  mcrt  the  trains  of  cm-  on  tlie  Au* 
bviin  and   Roihfsler,  uiid  Itlujca  nnd  Owego  Uailroads. 

Senkc  A  Lake. 

Tho  Stetiinlioitts  Richnrd  Sti-vius,  and  Chenu  ng,  form 
n  line  runnint^  llirouE;h  Seneca  lake,  winter  and  summer, 
from  the  villuiie  of  (Geneva  to  Jefferson,  n  distance  of  40 
miles,  landing  at  several  places  rn  their  passage  up  and 
down.  A  line  of  slnces  runs  iu  connection  \\  ii  i  the 
above  boats,  from  JeH'eison  to  KImira,  situated  i  the 
Chemung  river,  a  distance  of  19  miles. 

Crooked    I.ake. 

The  Steamboat  Keuka  runs  between  the  landing  n  ar 
Penn-Yantn  Hammondsport,  a  distance  of  22  miles,  c  n- 
rieciing  with  a  Stage  line  running  between  the  villages  of 
tJeneva  and  flath. 

The  passage  through  the  above  lakes  forms  a  delight- 
ful excursion,  being  surrounded  by  a  rich  and  highly 
cultivated  region  of  country,  alibrding  romantic  scenery. 

STEAMBOAT  LINES   LEAVING  BUFFALO. 

A  Steamboat  leaves  Buflalo  every  evening,  (Sundays 
excepted,)  during  the  season  of  navigation,  for  Chica- 
go, Illinois,  Usual  cabin  fare,  $14.00.  Steerage  pas- 
sage,$7.00,  Distance  1,047  miles.  Usual  time  four  days, 

A  Ste  imboat  leaves  Buffalo  daily  for  Detroit,  stopping 
at  the  iutcrm^diate  ports.  Usual  cabin  fare,  $7,00. 
Steerage,  $2,00.  The  same  fare  is  charged  to  Toledo, 
Distance  through  ^72  miles.     Usual  time  36  hours- 

A  Hrilish  steamer  runs  between  Buffalo,  Port  Stan- 
ley and  Amhersiburg,  thence  to  Detroit,  stopping  at  the 
internnediale  Canadian  ports. 

A  b<ont  runs  daily  from  Buffalo  to  Barcelona.  Dis- 
tance «if   miles.     Usual  fare,  $2.00. 

Two  honfs  run  daily  between  Bufialo,  Chippewa, 
Port  Kobiiison.  and  Schlosser'«i  Landing  Distance  to 
ihf  InttT  plucf ,  22  miles. 


KTICAMBOATS. 


■u. 


\l 


M 


J^IST  OF  StEAMUO.\TS  SAILING  FROM  BUFFALO  TO  DIF- 
FERENT PORTS  ON  Lakes  Erif..  Huhov,  and  Michi- 
gan—1844. 


NAME. 

Tons 

331 

Master. 

Where  to.                              | 

Beoi.  Franklin,  • 
Buffalo,  

Edmonds, 

Toledo  and  Monroe.                         1 

613 

Levi  Allen, 

Detroit. 

Bunker  Hill,*"- 

467 

C.  Stanard, 

Chicago. 

Chautauque,"-' 

161 

f.  Miller,  ».....• 

Barcelona. 

Chesapeake,  •  •  •  • 

413 

L.A.Kelsey, — 

Chicago. 

Cleveland, 

580 

M.  Hazard, 

Chicago. 

Columbus, 

391 

Powers, 

Detroil. 

Com.  Perry,  •••• 

352 

D.  Wilkinson,  •• 

Perrysburg  fc  Maumee. 

Constellation,  •• 

483 

J.  Lund^, 

Detroit. 

Constitution,  ••• 

443 

A.  F.  Kingman,- 

Chicago. 

Detroit,  (new  b.) 

Brundidge, 

»« 

De  Witt  Clinton, 
Emerald,  (Brit.) 
Empire,  (newb.) 

493 

A.  H.  Sj^^uiers,  •- 

(1 

R.  Hamilton,  --• 

Chippewa  5c  P.  Robinson 

D.  Ho^ve, 

Chicago. 

Oen.  Harrison,  •  • 

336 

S.  F.  Attwood,.. 

Maumee.                                            j 

©en.  Wayne, 

890 

L.H.Cotton,  ••- 

Chicago. 

Great  Western,- 

780 

A.Walker 

<<          ■              ,    ' 

Illinnio 

>»«.«       in        Dlnl.O        

(( 

Indiana, 

634 

C.  C.  Roby,---  - 

Toledo. 

Indian  Queen,  •• 

S.St',  ring, 

Erie,  Penn. 

James  Madison, 

630 

J.  McFadgen,'-- 

Chicaco. 

Julia  Palmer,'  •• 

300 

T.  J.  Titus, 

Detroit. 

Kent,  (British,)- 

ISO 

Van  Allen,""" 

P.  Stanley  it  Amherst'g. 

Lexington, 

3<>a 

F.  N.  Jones,  •  ^  • 

Detroit. 

Missouri, 

613 

T.  Wilkins, 

Chicago. 

NeW'England,  -• 

Nild .., 

416 
600 
308 

Wm.  Brown,-- •• 

A.  Allen, 

R.Hart, 

Detroit.                       ^ 

Chicago. 

Toledo. 

Robert  Fulton,  •  - 

Jlochester, 

473 

R.  Folger, 

Chicago. 

tSt.  Louis,  (n.  b.) 

G.W.Floyd,  ■-.. 
H.  Whittaker,  •• 

It 

United  States,  -  • 

366 

Detroit.                                           1 

ITVaterloo, 

100 

J.  Jennings,  •--• 
H.  Randall, 

Chippewa  &  Schlosser.                    1 

Wisconsin, 

700 

Chicago.                                              1 

S7£AM  Propellers  running  from  Bcffalo  to 
Chicago— 1844. 


Emigrant, 

Gea.  Porter, 

Hercules, 

Independence 

Samson, 

The  above  Ericsson  Propellers  carry  passengers  and 
freight,  stopping  at  the  intermediate  ports.  Usual  fare, 
cnbin  passage,  $11.00.  Steerage,  $5.00.  Usual  time, 
«ix  days  from  Buffalo  to  Chicago. 


275 

tons 

300 

«( 

260 

(( 

300 

tt 

250 

it 

DIF. 
ICHl. 


C. 


m«e. 


unsoD 


rat'g. 


sser. 


ro 


'TABLE  0|i*  DtSTANCES, 

Faom  Place  to  Place  on  the  Erie  Cakal. 


NAMES. 


and 
fare, 
ime, 


AuAIfT, 

I'ort^Schuyler,  ••• 

West-Troy. 

Junction  Cham.  c. 

echoes, 

Lower  Aqueduct,' 
Willow  Springs,  •  • 
Upper  Aqueduct,  • 

SCHSNKCTADT,    •••• 

Rotterdam, 

Amsterdam. 

Schoharie  Creelc,  • 
Smithtown, 

FuLTOXTIIXa, 

Spraker's  Basin,* 

Canajoharie, 

Fort-Plain, 

St.  Johnsville,  ••• 
East  Canada  cr.*« 
Indian  Castle,  •  •  • 
Lit?  LE  Falls,  •  •  •  • 
Herkimer  L.  Br.*- 
Herkimer  U.Br.- • 

Frankfort, • 

Utica, 

York  Mills, 

Whitesboro, 

Oriskany,  

RoMB, 

Wood  Creek, 

Hawley's  Basin,  • 
New-London,  •••• 

Higgins', 

Loomis', 

Oneida  Creek,  •  •  •  • 

Canastota, 

NeW'Boston, 

Chittenango, 

KirkTille, 

Manlius, 

Lodi, 

SnucoSK, 

Geddes, 

Belisle, 


V  V 

M  ca 
P<i  a 


0 
6 
1 
3 
1 
3 
6 
7 
4 
9 
8 
5 
3 
3 
9 
3 
3 
6 
4 
3 
6 
7 
1 
6 
9 
S 
1 

s 

8 
3 
3 
3 

4 
3 
3 
fi 
4 
3 
S 
4 
8 
1 
3 
4 


E  o 

O   X 


0 
6 
7 
9 
10 
13 
19 
36 
30 
39 
47 
93 
64 
67 
6C 
69 
72 
77 
81 
83 
68 
95 
96 
101 

no 

113 
114 
117 
130 
137 
139 
189 
136 
138 
141 
146 
160 
163 
158 
163 
170 
171 
173 
177 


6  jCamillus, 


317 
313 
31C 
307 
398 
396 
393 
387 
383 
381 
376 
369 
368 
363 
364 
361 
3601 


937 


333 

338 
336 
322 
318 
314 
311 
306 
208 
194 
193 
191 
187 


Canton, ' 

Peru, 

Jordan, 

Cold  Spring) 
Wecdsport,  • 
Centre  port,  • 
Port  Byron, 

MORTEZUIOA,  • 

Lockpit,  •••• 

Clyde, 

Lock-Berlin, 

Ltohs, ' 

Lockville,  •  • 


364 
363 
367 
366 
364 
361 
346 
338 
334 
336||Newark, 

Port  Gibson, 

Palmtba, 

MacedonvJUe, 

Wayne  port, 

Perrinton, 

Perrinton  Centre, 

Pairport, 

FuUam's  Basin, 

Bushnell's  Basm, 

PittKford, 

Billinghasts  Basin 

ROCHESTE*, 

Brockwny's, 
Spencer's  Basm, 
Adam's  Basin,  • 
Cooley's  Basln> 
BaocaroRT, 

947lHoUey,  ••• 

3S9  Hulberton, 
Albion, 


336  Gaines'  Basin, 


Eagle  Harbor,  • 
Knowlesville,  •• 

Medina, 

Shelby  Basin,* •• 

Middleport, 

Reyuuld'sHnsin, 

Gasfvirt, 

LOCKPORT, 

Pendleton.  

Tonawanda,   ••• 
Lower  Black  Rock 
Black  Rock, 

BerrALo,-  •• 


3 
6 
3 
4 
1 
6 
1 
3 
6 
6 
6 
6 
4 
6 
1 
3 
6 
4 
3 
3 
3 
1 
1 
3 
3 
4 
6 
10 
3 
3 
3 
3 
6 
4 
6 
3 
1 
4 
4 
8 
8 
3 
3 
7 
7 
13 
8 
1 
3 


1*^9 

=JSt 

189 

184 

180 

186 

176 

190 

17* 

191 

17» 

196 

168 

197 

167 

199 

16» 

906 

169 

311 

163 

91« 

14» 

321 

14» 

336 

139 

381 

183 

333 

189 

336 

139 

340 

134 

344 

130 

347 

117 

349 

119 

361 

113 

363 

lia 

363 

111 

S66 

108 

369 

109 

363 

lOf 

369 

96 

379 

86 

981 

83 

3S4 

80 

987 

77 

369 

76 

m 

70 

396 

66' 

304 

60 

306 

68 

307 

67 

311 

6» 

316 

49 

318 

4» 

391 

4S 

334 

40* 

336 

39 

333 

St 

340 

34 

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19^ 

360 

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861 

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f/rt.-s  :;i  f'li    i/-i 


